P 21,199. This previously unclimbed mountain lies on the Spiti-Kinnaur divide just inside Spiti near the Manirang Pass. It was climbed on October 8 by Nitai Roy, Keshab Kar and Sherpas Pemba Norbu and Nima Dorje from Camp II at 20,000 feet. The le...
Lobuje East and Kwangde Shar, 1990. Micha Miller and I climbed Lobuje East on the Bibler-Freer route on the east ridge (5.9, Al) on mostly solid rock, before we merged with the normal route. We did the climb alpine-style in five days. We also clim...
The Accident on Mt. Jefferson. Labor Day week-end (September 4th-5th, 1933) three Portland, Ore., boys set out to climb Mt. Jefferson by the east face, a steep snow climb. The three, Davis McCamant, Don Burkhart, and John Thomas were first missed ...
Washington—Cascades—Forbidden Peak—On 25 August, Stan Johnson (31), Barry White and three others set out to climb Forbidden Peak by the conventional route. They reached the summit ridge by the way of a steep ice couloir at 1:00 P.M. The other thre...
Valley of the Gods, Southeast Utah. This long-neglected area, first visited by Ron Wiggle and me in 1974, is reached via Highway 163 a few miles north of the town of Mexican Hat. The rock is composed of Chinle sandstone which is similar in density...
STRANDED ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. LouisThree young climbers, Phil Smith, Scott Duncan, and Ron Carmichael, started up the standard southeast face route of Mt. Louis early on 25 June 1978. It requires about 600 meters of ...
AAC, New England Section. The highlight of formal activity was the Section’s Sixth Annual Dinner, a black-tie event attended by 93 members and their guests. Everyone, as seems usual, had a good time, and we increased our Henderson Film Fund to $3,...
On September 23, 2008, Grzegorz Chwola and I flew from Kathmandu to Lhasa intending to reach the Mayer Kangri Massif on the Chang Tang plateau. As far as we could ascertain, these isolated mountains remained unexplored. Although the highest peak (...
OVERDUEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn the afternoon of September 18, rescue coordinator Mark Magnuson was notified of three overdue climbers on the North Face of the Grand Teton. A check of the trailhead found the subjects’ vehi...
Southeastern Rock, Harrison Shull. Asheville, NC: Harrison Shull, 2003. 144 pages, 250 photographs. Hardcover. $39.95.Having accidentally tucked this book in the seat pocket of my van, I carried it around with me on a road trip for several months....
Red Rocks Select. 500 Selected Routes in the Red Rocks of Nevada. Todd Swain. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1993. 186 pages, 42 black-and- white photographs, 20 sketch maps, numerous topos. $18.00.The desert is a land of contrasts and Red...
Brenva, by T. Graham Brown. 8vo., 225 pages, with 72 photographs and a map. London: J. M. Dent and Sons Ltd., 1944. Price 25 s.The Brenva face of Mont Blanc, facing almost directly toward the Italian side of the Col du Geant, is one of the few gre...
Stortind’s Unclimbed Southwest RidgePaul Richins, Jr.HÅVARD nesheim had viewed with awe the impressive, unclimbed southwest ridge of Stortind many times from the Ullsfjorden ferry. The ferry is the main transportation link between the quaint villa...
Hunter’s Peak (5,360m), northeast face, attempt. Ahn, Chi-young, and I attempted a new route on the northeast face of Hunter’s Peak, a.k.a. Lieren Feng. A Japanese-authored photograph book with English text (The Goddess on the Mountains in Southwe...
Pasang Lhamu Peak, Second Official Ascent. On April 22, 1993, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa became the first woman of Nepal to climb to the summit of Everest; unfortunately, she died while descending. In Nepal, she became a national heroine. The government ...
Tuolumne Meadows, 1985. Tuolumne has finally gone the way of most other major climbing areas; every cliff, no matter how tiny or obscure, has had routes put up on it. There was lots of activity in 1985, and not all of the reported routes are liste...
Oregon, Mt. Hood, October 1963. On 21 July Dr. Eberhard Gloecker, Robert Shoemaker and Dr. Mark Hanschka set out from Cloud Cap at 2:40 P.M. for the summit of Mt. Hood via the Sunshine Route. Dr. Gloecker soon noticed the other two seemed to tire ...
Spearhead Mountain, Midevil Wall. From March 22-25 Ammon McNeely and I established Midevil Wall (V 5.9 A3+) over three days. The first day we climbed approach pitches to a killer bivy at the base of the wall. We climbed three pitches the next day ...
CEREBRAL EDEMAAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 2, 1982, a six-member guided Mountain Trip party led by Gary Bocarde flew to the Kahiltna Glacier to climb the North Buttress of Mount McKinley. On May 6, the party established an advance base on the Pete...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS-FALL ON SNOWCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Wintun Ice FallOn June 24, David Lowe (24) was glissading at 13,500 feet with his crampons on. His crampons caught and threw him into a tumble, and his leashed ice ax penetrated his thig...