On August 31st, a climber was leading up a line on the NW side of Eastpost when he slipped and fell approximately 40 feet to the ledge below. He had not placed any protection. Injuries were assessed as being a broken ankle, some lacerations and ...
Sentinel Range, various first ascents and GPS Work. During the season I led my fifth expedition to the Sentinel Range, and as on previous trips the aim was to climb and re-survey a number of the highest peaks, in order to increase and refine the g...
Cho Oyu. On March 5, Martín Zabaleta, a Spanish Basque living in the United States, Americans Alan Kearney and I, our staff and four “family” trekking members set off in a hired bus for Jiri, the beginning of our walk to the mountain. An approach ...
Pico Vértigo, Sierra Nevada de Mérida. A Venezuelan party led by T. Viscarret made in January the second ascent of Pico Vértigo (c. 16,000 feet), a sharp rock peak which local climbers call the “Petit Dru of Venezuela.” The first ascent had been m...
Annapurna South Face. Our expedition hoped to climb a direct route in the center of Annapurna’s south face alpine-style. The team was made up of Valentin Ivanov, Dr. Valeri Karpenko, Vassili Elagin, Vladimir Bashirov, Vladimir Obichod, Sergei Isae...
Mount Everest, Spanish Attempt. The Expedición Tximist was composed of Juan Ignacio Lorente, leader, Angel Landa, Luis Abalde, Alfonso Alonso, Juan Cortazar, Luis I. Domingo, Juan C. Fernández, Ricardo Gallardo, Rodolfo Kirch, Francisco Lusarreta,...
Makalu West Face Attempts. The west face of Makalu was also attempted by American Jeff Lowe and French climbers Catherine Destivelle and Erik Decamp. After acclimatization, they divided. Lowe turned to the route unsuccessfully tried in 1981 by Pol...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn May 17, John Creager (54) was descending a Southside variation on Mount Hood with his two partners. He lost his footing and fell about 400 feet, sustaining serious injuries, including l...
Voyage de Saussure hors des Alpes, by Charles Gos. 8 vo. ; pp. 144, with nine illustrations from contemporary prints and portraits. Neuchatel and Paris: Attinger, 1935. Price Fr. 3.75.Turning his back on the glaciers of Chamonix, and upon the Alps...
Split Mountain, East Arête of North Summit. This long ridge is not as continuously steep as its neighbor that leads to the south summit, but the total climbing distance is greater, due to several gaps and a long knife- edged section in the middle....
Mount Bear, North Ridge. In early June, 1993, Bruce Blatchley and I made the fourth ascent of Mount Bear, via a new route on the north ridge. Our ascent occurred approximately one week after the third ascent party (Doug Barlow and Kaj Bune) reache...
AVALANCHE, LOSS OF CONTROI—GLISSADING, POOR ROUTE FINDINGColorado, San Juan Mountains, Lookout PeakI was mountain climbing with my husband, Edward W. Enlow, Jr. (38), when he had a fatal mountaineering accident on June 13, 1992. The following is a...
Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest, by Beck Weathers (Villard, $24.95). The story of Weathers' survival on Everest in 1996 is already well-known; this is more the story of his life, and Weathers casts a cool eye on himself: depression, dy...
Everest Attempt. The first Greek Himalayan expedition had as members Kostas Kanidis, Kostas Passaris, Nikos Louridis and me as leader and Bulgarian Dinio Georgiev-Tomov. We got to Base Camp at 5200 meters on July 16 and acclimatized for ten days. ...
Mount Huntington, South Ridge Attempt. A Japanese group attempted to climb the south ridge of Mount Huntington from its base. After several weeks they gave up, having reached the top of the second tower.
Maxson Dome, South Face. In October Burt Miller, Mark Meng, and I made the first ascent of the south face. This dome is quite spectacular when viewed from the roadhead at Courtwright Reservoir, and it was surprising that this 9547-foot dome had no...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington—On July 19 Paul Zanet (24) and Judy March (17) attempted to climb Mt. Washington from the base station of the cog railway. They were clothed in light summer clothing. Apparently they started up the Jewell trail late i...
INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FROSTBITE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Antoine Klingendrath (22) and his partner, members of the Societa Alpina Delle Giulie, were on the West Buttress during difficult conditions —deep snow and very bad weather. They left the 14,00...
Yanapaccha, Chopicalqui, Pisco. Our expedition consisted of Tom Cosgrove, Bill Hunt, Ed Lane, Tom MacNicholas, my wife Ruth and myself as leader. We were accompanied by the Peruvian porters Román Paredes Caballero and Ricardo Jara Vega. On June 30...
About 25 kilometers northeast of Gongga Shan is a group of peaks called the Lamo-she peaks by Imhof in his 1930 survey. Lamo-she (“Goddess Peak”) is the highest in the area at 6070 meters (19,915 feet). In September and October, Eloise Thompson, C...