Trisul, Various Attempts. It was reported that during October three expeditions attempted Trisul (7120 m) from the west via the west face/west ridge. All failed. A Spanish team led by Lorenzo Buil stopped at 5200 meters due to heavy snow; a German...
Mt. Buckner, Complete Southeast Ridge. On my first climb of Goode Mountain two years ago, the striking southeast ridge of Mt. Buckner caught my eye, but I was sure that such an obvious line must have been climbed decades before. After climbing Goo...
Sawtooths, Mt. Ne’er-do-well and Baron Spire, new routes. In August 2007 Trevor Bowman and I climbed two new routes in the Baron Spire area. The first was on Peak 9,211', the highest summit on the serrated ridgecrest just north of Baron Spire. A B...
Mountaineering: Catalogue of the Graham Brown and Lloyd Collections with microfilm supplements to come. National Library of Scotland, Edinburgh. £15.00 plus postage.
Mawson Peak Attempt. Our Austrian expedition was composed of Dr. Walter Flor, Werner Hölzl, Leopold Krenn and me as leader. We were joined in Australia by Peter Hardie. We had hoped to climb ice-armored Mawson Peak from the north. On January 4 we ...
Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Other Patagonian Ascents. Swiss Marco Pedrini climbed the Cerro Torre solo in one day on November 26. He repeated the climb twice more with Italian Fulvio G. Mariani, who filmed the ascent. Swiss Martin Moosberger and Kur...
Cerro Campanario, Attempt. In January, Diego Iglesias, Diego Socolinsky and Gabriel Brenta attempted Cerro Campanario (ca. 5400m), a rock spire they had tried in 1992 via Yellow Pipi, a difficult route first climbed in 1986. On their latest attemp...
AVALANCHE, WEATHERMaine, Baxter State Park, Mount KatahdinThe following is an account of an avalanche on Mount Katahdin which resulted in two fatalities on February 8, 1984.Bob Esser, Ken Levanway, Rick Cumm, Peter Cochetti, and Steve Hilt—all in ...
Mt. Burney, Southeast Ridge, Attempt. In February and March, 2001, I traveled with five companions (New Zealanders Brede Arkless, Paddy Freaney, and Rochelle Rafferty and Canadians Scott Fraser and Dave Pfeiffer), with the aid of two inflatable di...
FALL ON SNOW, WEATHER, GEOLOGYColorado, Maroon Bells, Bell Cord CouloirOn May 30, Kip Ryan White (49), an experienced climber and indie singer- songwriter, died in a fall in the saddle between North and South Maroon Peaks outside Aspen. White and ...
Cañón de la Huasteca, El Pico Erin, Hunab Ku. Access to this area, located in the municipality of Santa Catarina, is easy: once in the park follow the paved main road for approximately three miles, to where the road turns to gravel. Continue and t...
Zum Dritten Pol, Die Achttausender der Erde, by Günther Oskar Dyrenfurth, with contributions by Erwin Schneider. 286 pages, 47 photographs, 2 drawings, 2 geological profiles, and 8 maps. Munich: Nymphenburger Verlagshandlung, 1952.In a year in whi...
In the Rurec Valley, called by many climbers the “Little Yosemite” of the Andes, an Italian expedition opened two new routes on Nevado Quillujirca (5,040m). [Editor's note: Quillujirca is the local name. The peak has been incorrectly referred to...
Broad Peak Attempt. We were Andreas Müller, Claus Coester, Edi Furrer, Felix Waltert, Armin Krummenacher, Peter Brütsch, Kudi Weibel and I as leader. First we fixed rope where there was steep bare ice. Then the weather changed and we had wind, sno...
Ecuador has been the scene of considerable aerial activity of late. An expedition headed by Capt. Erskine Loch has recently completed a fifteen months’ survey for an aerial route across the Andes to the eastern provinces in the Amazon Basin and no...
Ten years of exploration in the Puna de Atacama. During the last decade, exploratory mountaineering has achieved importance in the Puna de Atacama, a high plateau (altiplano) at about 3,500m in northern Argentina and Chile. This Andean region, one...
Mount Heyburn, Complete East Ridge, Sawtooth Range. Stan Hilbert and I made the complete traverse of the east ridge of Mount Heyburn, climbing all major gendarmes directly, in seven hours. The route involved several difficult abseils. Slings shoul...
Twenty Classics in Twenty Days (from California to Wyoming). Hans Florine, Nancy Feagin, Christian Santelices and Willy Benegas made an amazing series of classic climbs between July 17 and August 5. They ascended 60,080 feet, traveled 137 miles on...
FALL ON SNOW AND ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BlakistonOn July 7, 1990, a party of five climbed the Class 4 south gully on Mount Blakiston. They were beginning their descent by traversing a small, moderately angled slope when the leader sli...
A Note on Names of Formations Rising from the Hainablak Glaciers. Directed by Greg Child, Bernard Domenech (France) contacted the AAJ in the autumn of 1998 with a note on the naming of Shipton Spire. He wrote, “[In the 1936 expedition report], Ard...