North Sixshooter Peak. This tower, about 300 feet high, stands at the summit of a talus cone about 20 miles northeast of Monticello. On April 4, Rick Horn, Jack Turner, and I got halfway to the summit before we were defeated by a sandstorm. On Apr...
United States: Activities of the ClubsA.A.C.: Wind River Camp, 1951. California members of the A.A.C. have long wanted to become acquainted with members fromother parts of the country. This desire has been shared, one feels sure, by members elsewh...
Mount Humphreys, Northeast Face. In May Joe Faint and I climbed the 1600-foot face in superb alpine conditions. Our route on this 13,986-foot mountain begins near the center of the face and ends forty feet to the left of the summit. Entries in the...
Huascarán Norte. Denis Conte and Fréderic Labaeye did the 1973 French route on the northeast face of Huascarán Norte from June 3 to 6. They found it easier than the first-ascent party had. From June 15 to 17 this same pair did the 1974 Italian rou...
Dave Hesleden and I flew in by helicopter to the Tiedemann Glacier on August 3. The weather was unsettled when we arrived, so we kicked off with a two-day ascent of the Southeast Chimneys route on Mount Waddington. We then turned our attention to ...
Kulu Pumori, Punjab. Gwynn Stephenson and Harold Mellor of J.P.O.’F. Lynam’s Bari Shigri expedition of 1961 attempted this lovely 21,500-foot peak. They reached 19,000 feet on the formidable northwest ridge but were forced by illness to retire. Th...
Mount Adams, Lava Ridge. On September 21 John Holland and I ascended the Lava Ridge, which is the cleaver separating the Lava Glacier headwall and the north lobe of the Lyman Glacier. The climb was straightforward, and conditions were excellent fo...
Huascarán, Southeast Ridge Attempt. Our group consisted of Hubert Stampfer, Horst Kahl, Kurt Kirchner and me. After acclimatization climbs on Yanapactsa Noroeste and Pisco Oeste on June 3 and 6, we set off up the Quebradas Ulta and Mátara to Base ...
Mountaineering Summary and Statistics, 1999. This year, even with the unusual weather conditions, there were 46 climbing expeditions comprised of 176 people that accrued some 3,005 person-days within the Icefields of Kluane. Overall, this was one ...
EDWARD PIERREPONT BECKWITH1877-1966Edward Beckwith, who joined the Club in 1914, died last July of a heart attack while driving his car alone. After graduating in 1901 from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, as research chemist and enginee...
Tulparaju, East Ridge, Hualcán, West Ridge and Other Peaks. Our group of the Salzburg section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) made between May 22 and June 18 several normal ascents in the Cordillera Blanca. We climbed Ishinca from Laguna Ishinca...
On September 13th, 1930, G. K. Gourlay, secretary of the Himalayan Club, with Mr. Eversden, another member of that club, made the ascent of Lhonak Peak. (Die Alpen, Vol. VII, No. 1, p. 45.)
Warrior II, North Face. The 2000-foot north face of Warrior II was climbed by Steve Marts and me on July 21. We got on the face at the right of two rock ribs which stretch down from the left side of the face. We climbed up broken rock to the first...
Santa Rosa, West Face, Cordillera Raura. On June 28 Bernard Francou and I climbed for the first time the west face of Santa Rosa (5706 meters, 18,721 feet). The 1650-foot high face, which varied from 50° to 65°, took us five hours to climb. We cro...
El Capitan, El Corazon. On September 7 Max Reichel and I looked for a new free-climbable line on the southwest face of El Capitan. We found it and reached the top on September 14. We used aid on some sections during the first ascent but returned f...
Shisha Pangma, Southwest Face, New Route. The expedition was made up of Kim Bover, Ramon Estiu, Jordi Bosch “Barraca,” Xavier Robiró, Carles Figueras, Josep Permañé and Iñaki Garijo. The route was climbed without prior preparation alpine-style by ...
Mount Hayes, Northern Edge of the West Face. Geoff Radford, Andy Reynolds, Kate Bull and Steve Will climbed this 5000-foot-high ridge in March. They were five days on the arête, another on the north ridge to reach the summit and a seventh on the d...
Washington, Southern Olympics. On Saturday morning, November 10th, a routine problem was being conducted by F-102 fighter planes from Paine Air Force Base. Fighter #2, flown by Captain Robert Lucas, was observing #1 from a slightly higher elevatio...
FALL ON ROCK, NO BELAYNew York, ShawangunksWhile descending the Pigeon (Class 4), a woman (31) fell and pulled the climber roped to her into a tree. This resulted in broken ribs, a sprained wrist, and cuts. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisThe easy de...
Raksha Urai Massif, First Attempt. In far western Nepal, a team of 14 Austrians had some difficulty getting through a very deep gorge to their virgin massif of Raksha Urai, which is east of two better-known mountains, Api and Nampa, and west-north...