Everest, Northeast Ridge Attempt and North Ridge Ascent. Our co-leaders were Briton Harry Taylor and New Zealander Russell Brice. The other members were Britons Alan Hinkes, Bill Barker, Andy Parkin, Len Atkinson, Base Camp Manager Sam Roberts, Dr...
Everest: Alone at the Summit. Stephen Venables (Thunders Mouth Press, $14.95). First American edition of Venables’ climb of the Kangshung Face of Everest (see Ed Webster’s Snow in the Kingdom, reviewed above). Tom Holzel called it an intensely tol...
Adaptation of Avian Eggshells to High Altitude. Adult birds and mammals compensate in part for reduced oxygen concentrations at high altitudes by increasing the rate of convective air flow across respiratory surfaces. Birds which breed at high alt...
Squamish Chief. A number of new routes were made during the past year on the Squamish Chief. Tantulus Wall: In years of climbing on the Chief, we had always dismissed the sheer 1000-foot Tantulus Wall as an unlikely area for a route. The upper thi...
Rooster Comb Attempt, Mount Dan Beard. Mark Houston, Rick Stockwell and I spent the month of April in the Ruth Amphitheatre. Our first objective was the Rooster Comb via the col between it and Huntington. Our attempt reached the 9800-foot icefield...
Travel update for Nepal, spring 2005. Tourism arrivals in Nepal continue to plummet due to increasing violence surrounding the growing Maoist insurgency, and the February 1st royal takeover of political control of the country. According to the Nep...
Himalayan Odyssey, by Trevor Braham. 1974, London: George Allen & Unwin LTD. £6.50. 243 pages, 14 maps, 31 black and white illustrations.Trevor Braham loves the mountains. He likes climbing; he likes climbers; he likes the geography and the pe...
K2 Attempt. Peter Arbic, Troy Kirwan and I arrived at Base Camp on June 20. We wanted to climb the south-southwest ridge of K2, the “Magic Line,” ascended by the Poles Wróz and Piasecki and Czech Božik in 1986. Starting on June 29, in three days w...
First Ascents and Explorations from the Mons and Freshfield IcefieldsAlden F. MegrewTWENTY-EIGHT years ago a great peak was discovered in British Columbia, only six miles to the west of Mt. Forbes; a solitary mountain mass, isolated from the numer...
Letter to the Editor- Climbing EthicsThomas HigginsIN THE 1982 ISSUE of the American Alpine Journal, Bruce Morris wrote a historical and interpretive article on face climbing in Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows. As a contributor to the face climbing ...
Premiere Buttress, The Phoenix. In March Don Reid and I climbed this route that starts in an obvious left-slanting crack system several hundred feet right of the Beckey-Goechoel route. Difficult climbing over decomposing rock leads to a belay ledg...
MARGUERITE SCHNELLBACHER COVENEY 1900-1962"If you would seek her monument or final resting place look in our hearts.” These words in the beautiful memorial sent out by her family were to many the first knowledge that Marguerite was even seriously ...
Everest from the NorthJames WickwireTWO YEARS AFTER a nearly successful attempt to reach the summit of Everest by climbing a new route on the mountain’s north face, a nucleus from that team of mainly Washington State climbers returned for another ...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITIONWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Meadows of Garnet CanyonOn April 18, Grand Teton National Park received a report of two overdue backcountry skiers who were in the park to ski the Grand Teton. The resulting search for th...
The Scottish Himalayan Expedition, by W. H. Murray, xiii + 282 pages, with 36 photographic illustrations, including four in color, and 11 maps and diagrams. London: J. M. Dent and Sons, 1951. Price, 30/-. (New York: Macmillan and Co.).To the annal...
After Forty YearsJ. Henry ScattergoodONLY seven of us who were founding members of the American Alpine Club in 1902 still survive. Of these, three—Prof. Parker, George Weed and myself—were among the early climbers in the Canadian Rockies and Selki...
From September 23 to October 24 French guides Sébastien Bohin (GMHM), Pascal Trividic, and I visited Sichuan. We climbed in the Minya Konka Range, where for the first half of our stay the weather was still influenced by the monsoon, and we experie...
Denali, New Route. The northeast side of Mt. McKinley attracted our attention even before literature about the region became accessible to us. After reading Jon Waterman’s book High Alaska, it became clear that our route would closely follow the T...
Every Other Day: The Journals of the Remarkable Rocky Mountain Climbs and Explorations of A. J. Ostheimer. Edited by R.W. Sandford and Jon Whelan. The Alpine Club of Canada. 2002. 248 pages, illustrated, tipped-in map. Cdn$34.95.In 1927,19-year-ol...
Set in the heart of the central Alaska Range, the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier is a massive geographic rift that has shaped a climbing area like no other. More than 20 peaks border the sides of the north-south-trending valley, with walls up ...