Sekha Brakk, First Ascent. It was reported that a British team consisting of Dave Wilkinson (leader), Ken Findlay, Paul Hudson and Karl Zientek made a probable first ascent of Sekha Brakk (ca. 5450m) on the Hispar watershed ridge of the Solu Glaci...
Little Roman Nose, Southern Selkirks. Mark Guthrie and I did the first ascent of the north face on September 27. We climbed the obvious dihedral that can be seen from the lake below it in four pitches of mixed free and aid climbing; the climbing w...
Medicine for Mountaineering. James A. Wilkerson, M.D., Editor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 438 pages, black and white drawings, diagrams and tables. Appendices, glossary, index. $8.95.This sixteen-ounce medical and surgical textbook is worth ...
Jugal Himal. Carla Maverna and Irene Affentranger climbed Jugal Himal in October.Mario Fantin, Club Alpino Italiano
Chong Kumdan II (7,004m). The isolated Chong Kumdan Group was explored in 1991 by an Indo- British expedition that climbed 10 peaks, including the first ascent of the highest, Chong Kumdan I (7,071m). This team approached along the Shyok River and...
Shishapangma: The Alpine-Style Ascent of the South-West Face, by Doug Scott and Alex MacIntyre (Mountaineers Books, $19.95), was the winner of the first Boardman Tasker Award in 1984 when it was published as The Shishapangma Expedition. This new e...
Hunters Peak and Troublesome Peak, Chugach Mountains. This fall as my brother Jim and I started winding our way up Bountiful Creek through frustrating alders, our goal was to explore a previously unvisited section of the Chugach Mountains. During ...
FALL ON ROCK New York, ShawangunksOn December 2, a climber (age unknown) fell while setting up a top rope on a route called Reefer Madness. He sustained arm and back injuries which warranted a visit to the hospital. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisTh...
FALL ON ROCK–UNABLE TO SELF-RESCUEColorado, Eldorado State ParkOn August 8, A twenty-eight-year-old male experienced climber was leading the fourth pitch of Rewritten (5.7) on Redgarden Wall when he slipped and fell twelve feet. The victim’s prote...
Trango Nameless Tower, Attempt and Ascent. Paul Pritchard, Noel Craine, Adam Wainwright and Andy Cave traveled by jeep to arrive at Askole on July 5. We were travelling and sharing many expenses with the British Women’s Trango Expedition, so we le...
Indus Kohistan. I visited Swat and Indus Kohistan between August 15 and September 10. Although the Swat valley is relatively well frequented, Indus Kohistan is almost entirely unknown. There, it is possible to find the odd corner where the Western...
Himalchuli, Attempt from the Northeast. Already attempted several times unsuccessfully, the extremely long northeast ridge of Himalchuli butts into a final steep face. Our attempt was post-monsoon, lightweight, Sherpa-less and with a minimal budge...
Pumori Attempt. Five Italians led by Toni Klingendrath hoped to climb Pumori alpine-style. They first tried the southeast face direct and in mid-October placed a camp at 19,200 feet. Then three members left for home. Klingendrath and Roberto Giber...
Lamjung. This three-person Japanese expedition was composed of Kazuki Yoshino, the lone man, and two women, Tomoko Takasu and Keiko Kido. Base Camp was established on the Kamba Khola at 12,650 feet on April 11. Camps I, II, III and IV at 15,100, 1...
Volcán Lautaro, West Face. An official expedition of the Federatión de Andinismo de Chile reached the Continental Icecap by way of Fiordo Exmouth and headed for Volcán Lautaro (3380 meters, 11,089 feet), previously ascended by Argentinians and Bri...
Peak 29. Osaka University made its third attempt to climb Peak 29. (The new altitude of this peak is now given as 24,652 feet, over 1000 feet lower than the previous altitude. — Editor.) The members were Senya Sumiyoshi, leader, Yasuo Tamai, Hideo...
FALL ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount WashingtonOn May 18, 1985, a group of 20 Boy Scouts, including six or seven leaders, were returningfrom the summit of Mt. Washington in the Olympic Range when one of the rope leaders...
South Platte Area. Gene Ellis and I were active here during the summer of 1990, climbing several routes on the Upper Etive Slabs and another on the center of the Dome. On the Etive Slabs, on June 3 we climbed a two-pitch face route, Joy Ride (5.11...
Peaks in the Upper Donjek Glacier Area, St. Elias Mountains. In June and July, 13 members of the Toronto Section of the Alpine Club of Canada enjoyed 16 days of continuously perfect weather amid the mountains that surround the upper Donjek Glacier...
Himalchuli West, Winter Ascent. An expedition of six Koreans was led by Park Dong-Seol. They climbed the southwest ridge. On December 19, Lee Suk-Hwan completed the fourth ascent of the western summit (7540 meters, 24,738 feet) of Himalchuli.Eliza...