Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, P 19,507 and P 20,049, Chamba-Lahoul Divide

P 19,507 and P 20,049, Chamba-Lahoul Divide. Virgin P 19,507 was climbed by seven members of the Indian-Tibetan Border Police team on July 23. The summiters were Thakur Shyam Singh, leader, K. Paras Ram, Kartar Chand, Thandup, Devi Ram, Harbhajan ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori, Winter Attempt

Pumori, Winter Attempt. South Korean Shinji Sasaoka failed to climb the northeast face of Pumori solo. He reached 6700 meters on December 25.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Shipton Corridor Expedition, 1993-4

Shipton Corridor Expedition, 1993-4. Andrzej Makaram and I hoped to reach the Patagonian Icecap from the Soler Glacier. On December 21, 1993, we camped at 250 meters at the tongue of the glacier. After reconnaissance, we decided that the only way ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Thalay Sagar from the South and Rudugaira

Thalay Sagar from the South and Rudugaira. Our expedition made a second, and this time successful, attempt by a new route on Thalay Sagar from the Phatung Glacier to the south. Our previous try was in 1990. Because of deep winter snow, most of the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock and Snow, Inexperience, Inadequate Equipment and Clothing, Climbing Alone, Oregon, Mount Thielsen

FALL ON ROCK AND SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, CLIMBING ALONEOregon, Mount ThielsenOn June 25, Tristan Massie (40), visiting Oregon from Maryland, was free-solo climbing the spectacular talus of the class four summit of Mo...


Accident Reports AAJ
The Accident on Mt. Jefferson

The Accident on the Minarets. Walter A. Starr, Jr., left on July 29th, 1933, for a climbing trip in the Sierras alone. When he did not return on schedule, a search was instituted and first his car, then his camp was found obviously untouched for a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Western China, Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt and Tragedy

Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt and Tragedy, Tien Shan. This 7439-meter (24,407-foot) peak, the highest in the Tien Shan, lies on the boundary between China and the Soviet Union. It is called Tuomur by the Chinese and Pik Pobedy by the Soviets. Its s...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Redstone Peak

Washington, Redstone Peak—A party of four mountaineers from Tacoma climbed Redstone Peak northeast of Mt. Rainier on Aug. 3. Redstone was 6.5 miles from where they left the car. Rain set in part way in, but they decided to go on. They attacked the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall/Slip on Ice, Exceeded Abilities—New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Huntington's Ravine

FALL/SLIP ON ICE, EXCEEDED ABILITIES—New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Huntington’s Ravine. On March 25, Margaret Snyder Cassidy (24) of Wolfeboro, New Hampshire, her husband Daniel (24), and her two brothers Jim (19) and Mike Snyder (13) of Elkins, ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slide/Fall on Ice, Inexperience, Improper Use of Crampons, Inadequate Protection—Unclipped, Party Separated, California, Eastern Sierras, Lamarck Col

SLIDE/FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCE, IMPROPER USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—UNCLIPPED, PARTY SEPARATEDCalifornia, Eastern Sierras, Lamarck ColOn October 22, David Lown (29), a second year family practice resident, and three friends were desce...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest, Post-Monsoon Attempt

Everest Post-Monsoon Attempt. Our members were Dr. Howard Chuntz, Stanton Smith, Craig Bishop, Dr. Keith Hooker and I as leader. We had been scheduled to fly on the Thai Airbus that crashed and killed all 99 passengers, but we luckily had changed ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, White Knight

White Knight. The White Knight is a 310-foot sandstone pillar first climbed in November, 1977, by George Hurley and Bill Forrest. The ascent is previously unreported. The tower, (located a mile north of Interstate 70 in central Utah) is approached...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Off a Cornice, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Assiniboine

FALLING OFF A CORNICEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineAliester (Bugs) McKeith and two companions were climbing the north face of Mt. Assiniboine on 17 June 1978. About 1500 hours, McKeith went on alone toward the summit in blowing snow wit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, New Route on North Face

Huascarán Norte, New Route on North Face. José L. Moreno, Carlos Val- lés and I made a new route on the north face of Huascarán Norte. It lies left of Casarotto’s 1978 route and is principally on rock with small stretches of ice and mixed climbing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, Southern Picket Range

East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, Southern Picket Range. Making the weekend of October 5 a three-day affair, Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, and David Collins took the circuitous ridge route into Terror Creek Cirque for a second try at the unclimbed east ri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, MooseSkin Mountain, The Ass of Spades, and Various Attempts

Mooseskin Mountain, The Ass of Spades, and various attempts. First, I thank the American Alpine Club for considering awarding a young dirtbag a Mountain Fellowship Grant to go climbing. Marcus Donaldson and I flew out of Talkeetna on April 14 and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Changla Attempt

Changla Attempt. A joint Japanese-Nepalese women’s expedition led by Mrs. Kyoko Endo failed to make the first ascent of Changla (6721 meters, 22,051 feet). There were seven Japanese and three Nepalese members. The women were supported by two high-...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri South

Nilgiri South. Four Japanese led by Kenji Ohama got to 5900 meters on the unclimbed south face of Nilgiri South on October 26 when they decided the unstable rock was too dangerous. They had been at Base Camp since September 12 waiting for favorabl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Bharte Khunta

Bharte Khunta. We set up Base Camp at Topovan on September 18. Once acclimatized and having set up Camp I on the Kirti Bamak at 4630 meters, we made a cache higher. On September 26, we occupied Camp II at 5640 meters. On the 27th, Toni Bou, Kiko C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, North Ridge of Peak 11,585

North Ridge of Peak 11,585. The northern aspect of this peak has two facets, a concave north face and a spectacular northwest face, both of which probably have too much rotten rock for good climbing. The separating ridge, however, is of excellent ...