Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt and Sia Kangri Ski Ascent. On June 6 Richard Franzl and Franz Breitenbaumer skied up the middle peak (7122 meters, 23,366 feet) of Sia Kangri. On June 7 Jean-Luc Beausire, Jörg Daum, Fritz Fehlmann, Pierre-Yvan G...
KENNETH M. WINTERS 1923-1981The climbing community has lost one of its most conscientious friends. Ken died of a heart attack while leading a climb on Mount Shasta on May 24, 1981.Born in Portland, Oregon on April 19, 1923, he was graduated from L...
Barbara Bacher, Jakob Oberhauser, Thomas Scheiber, Heiko Wilhelm, and I, all from Austria, established a series of new routes in Oman. We kicked off our winter season with the first ascent of 40 Räuber, a technical 8b in Little Gourgette, a crag c...
FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, POOR POSITION Washington, North CascadesOn August 7, 1986, George Newberry, director of the National Outdoor Leadership School’s (NOLS) Northwest Office, reported that Neal Bibbins (23) had been hit in the face with a r...
On February 8, 2010, Philippe Hourcle, Luc Pauget, and I put up Les Becs de Gaz pissaient leur Flamme au clair de lune (180m, TD+, 6b+) on the East Al Hamra Tower. The towers lie in northeast Oman above the old town of Al Hamra and are reached by ...
New Routes on Mt. Wister and Veiled Peak. In 1932, on page 19 of The Teton Peaks and Their Ascents, Fritiof M. Fryxell wrote: “Undoubtedly it [the north face of Mt. Wister] will furnish one of the best climbs in the range.” Yet for 20 years no one...
Mt. Paget and other attempts. From February to May 2005 a multi-national team of climbers sailed the yacht Gambo from Ushuaia in Argentina to King Edward Point in South Georgia, and then back to Pireapolis in Uruguay. The team, which included Tom ...
Exploration of the Northern Monashee RangeRaymond T. ZillmerTHE Monashee (Mountain of Peace) Range, formerly called the Gold Range, is in British Columbia, immediately W. of the Selkirks and S. E. of the Cariboos. The Columbia and the Canoe Rivers...
IMAX Everest. Produced by MacGillivary Freeman Films. Mountain footage filmed and directed by David Breashears. Camera assistant, Robert Schauer. Screened at Edwards IMAX theater, Irvine, California. Price of admission: $7. Film time: 48 minutes.E...
FALL OR SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – RUNNING ROPE THREADED THROUGH WEBBING, WEBBING FAILEDColorado, Vail, Rigid DesignatorLate on the morning of March 21, Christopher Boratenski (31) an experienced climber, was climbing the Rigid Designato...
Southwest Borkoldoy, Piks 4,608m, 4,778m, 4,661 m, 4,705m, and Damdjjegs, first ascents; At Bashi region, first ascents. We traveled to Kyrghzstan in September for a month’s climbing. After a few days acclimatizing in the Ala Archa National Park, ...
Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-72U.S.A.1959-72CAN.U.S.A.1973CAN.TerrainRock113199902Snow59495323River4010Unknown 2280Ascent or DescentAscent848115801Descent76773384Unknown 1168130Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock61253632Failure ...
FALL ON SNOW, SKI MOUNTAINEERING, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BINDING ADJUSTMENT Alaska, Chugach MountainsFrom June 28 to July 5, 1992, I (Todd Miner, 36) was co-leading a University of Alaska Anchorage Wilderness Leadership Expedit...
Agonizing DecisionsCharles S. Houston, M.D.ONE OF MY friends and a companion were almost over an 18,000-foot pass in Nepal in the course of a long trek. It was mid-afternoon, the weather was threatening, and the snow lay deep along the track. My f...
Bradford Washburn: Mountain Photography. Edited and compiled by Anthony Decaneas; Introduction by Clifford S. Ackley. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1999. 144 pages. $29.95.If God is in the details, Brad Washburn’s first book based entirely on his o...
Rimo II and IV. An Indo-International expedition, led jointly by Sonam Palzor and Doug Scott, climbed Rimo II (7373 meters, 24,190 feet) and Rimo IV (7169 meters, 23,520 feet). The Indian members were Sonam Palzor, Tsewang Smanla, Kanhaiya Lal, Mo...
Northwest Face of Slesse Peak, Chilliwack Range. The northwestern edge of Slesse Peak had intrigued climbers for some time. Slesse has a very steep northeast face descending to Middle Creek and a steep north profile edging up from the ridge separa...
FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST British Columbia, North Cascades Range, Canadian Border PeakOn June 11, 1994, a party of five climbers went out on a scheduled ACC attempt on Canadian Border Peak. After four hours of approach and snow ...
K2’s South FaceJerzy Kukuczka, Klub Wysokogórski Katowice, Poland Translated by Ingeborga Dowbrawa-CochlinTOGETHER WITH Tadeusz Piotrowski, I found myself beneath K2 as a member of a large international expedition, organized by Karl Maria Herrligk...
The Danish Janak Himal Expedition comprised Allan Christensen, Bo Belvedere Christensen, Jan Mathorne, and myself as leader. All had made several expeditions to the Himalaya previously, most recently in spring 2000 to the Polish Route on the south...