Kula Kangri and Jiexiang, attempts. During April and May our small team attempted Kula Kan- gri (7,554m). Stephen Chaplin from the U.K., Laila Ojefelt and Lars Svens from Sweden, and I from Australia were the only people on the mountain, which has...
The Cold- Dance ReviewWinter Ice Climbing and its Techniques on KitchenerJeff Lowe “To dance beneath the diamond sky with one hand waving free…”—Bob DylanPart I — Winter WaltzesTHE dance really started during the winters of 1971 and 1972. Up to th...
Hold the Heights: The Foundation of Mountaineering. Walt Unsworth. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. 432 pages, 24 pages of black-and-white photos, 14 maps. $29.95.This is an extraordinary book, a joy to read and a rich history of mountaineering fr...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-791951-7919801980USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock1613188885Snow9501595011Ice5312101River 7220Unknown10400Ascent or DescentAscent12891828011Descent1059121444Unknown18519172Immediate CauseFall or slip...
PARTY SEPARATED – ILLNESS, POOR PLANNING AND LOGISTICS, MISCOMMUNICATIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Muir Snowfield Paradise GlacierJohn Repka was last seen alive descending the Muir Snowfield on May 16 during a planned day climb with the group One ...
The Gunks Guide, Third Edition. Todd Swain. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1994. $22.00.Comment: A bold new cover and design, better typeface, clearer cliff topos, hole-punch for threading to rack—plus a small but precious collection of ne...
FROSTBITE, HYPOTHERMIA, BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE, LOST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn January 22, 1982, Jeffrey Batzer (20) and Hugh Herr (17) arrived at Pinkham Notch; immediately after checking in, they started up the steep,...
ODE TO UNIVERSITY PEAKRobert W. Cromer, M.D.Far to the North where the glaciers lie,And Northern Lights sweep the summer sky,Where the great brown bear and Dall Sheep stray,There’s a wild land where the storm winds play.The land of the Copper Rive...
INADEQUATE WATER–DEHYDRATION, EXHAUSTIONNorth Carolina, Moore's Wall, Sentinel ButtressAt approximately 1800 on June 6,1 received a radio communication from seasonal office assistant RyanMoorefield. He had received a call from Stokes County Commun...
James Hopkins Trust and Honey Buttress, Ascents. I first went out to Greenland in 1996 with Silvo Karo (Slovenia) and Jerry Gore (U.K.). We climbed a route on the left-hand pillar of Nalumasortoq and, on the third or fourth day of our climb, while...
Abercrombie Mountain, Southwest Face. For a few years Abercrombie Mountain (2,120m) had been in the back of my mind, for a time when conditions were decent and I had a good partner. Its southwest face starts at only 640m, presenting an unclimbed 1...
HAPE, RAPID ASCENTAlaska, Mount ForakerOn April 20, 1984, a four member party calling themselves “Tom’s Expanding Headband” expedition, flew to the Kahiltna Glacier at 2100 meters for a climb on the Southeast Ridge of Mount Foraker. After spending...
IN late November 1975 I wrote Dave Fischer, the Political Officer in our Embassy in Kathmandu and a law school classmate, about the possibility of a permit for Cho Oyu. He responded, “Cho Oyu isn’t available but how about Everest?” My response w...
ABANDONMENT–CREATING A HAZARDAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressJoseph Klopack (51) and his 15-year-old son Joseph, Jr. checked into the Talkeetna Ranger Station on June 3, where Ranger John Leonard briefed them. The pair flew to the Kahiltna Ba...
Mt. Columbia—the Problem of the West FaceThe west face of Mt. Columbia has seldom been observed or photographed from near viewpoints. During the month of July, 1931, Messrs. Cromwell, Spadavecchia and the writer were in the Athabaska valley1 and e...
Rock Climbing in AustraliaHENRY BARBER made a six-week visit to Australia in the southern autumn of 1975. He climbed in six states, refusing to use aid on any climb. Before his arrival in March, there were no climbs rated above 21 which did not re...
In 2009 the 15m sailing vessel Gambo spent July and August supporting glaciological and oceanographic research on two major outlet glaciers of the Greenland ice sheet. When the skill set of the crew was not in demand for science objectives, it was...
PAUL ROPER McINTYRE1906-1936Paul McIntyre was born June 25th, 1906, and lost his life on September 21st, 1936, in an automobile accident. He was graduated from Brown University in 1928, taking his A.B. in English, magna cum laude. In 1932 he recei...
Mount Hunter Via the West Ridge, a Proposed AscentBradford WashburnMOUNT HUNTER1 is the highest unclimbed peak in the Alaska Range and doubtless the most outstanding virgin peak in Alaska. No party has ever attempted to climb Hunter, and I do not ...
Cerro Picachos, various new routes. This granite area off Hwy 85, 50 miles north of Monterrey, is as beautiful as it is wild. I will not even attempt to give directions. Go to Sombreretillo and ask the locals. Three- to four-hour walk in. The clim...