Ama Dablam, North Ridge. On October 21 Francis Chaud, Yvan Estienne, Jean-François Magnificat, Raymond Renaud, Marc Salomez, Bruno Solemieux and I reached the summit of Ama Dablam by the north ridge. On the 22nd it was the turn of Bernard Charbonn...
Kulu. In the fall of 1963 I was "guest instructor” at the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute at Manali, Kulu in the Punjab. During the first month-long course, in September, I climbed solo a previously unclimbed peak of c. 18,000 feet, whi...
Lamjung Himal, Southeast Ridge. Our women’s expedition was composed of Key Hyoung-Hee, Youn Hyun-Ok, Lee Won-Haeng, So You-Mee, Manager Kim Kyung-Bae and me as leader. Our difficult route on the southeast ridge starting from Chame had been previou...
Trollveggen. In July three Norwegians, Odd Eliassen, Ole Enersen and Jon Teigland, and I ascended the Troll-Wall in Romsdalen. Almost simultaneously a British team led by Tony Howard made an ascent of the same wall by a very different route. At it...
Istor-o-Nal Group. Two German Alpine Club (DAV) expeditions combined in Pakistan for most of their climbing. From Munich were H. Hesslinger, L. Jaumann, H. Wagner, and H. Wiessmeier. From Garmisch-Partenkirchen were K. and U. Schoenwald, N. Hendri...
Crossing of the Northern Patagonian Icecap and Cerro Largo, 1985. In November and December of 1985 American Bonnie Schwahn and Chileans Gino Casassa and I were on the Northern Patagonian Icecap (Hielo Continental Norte). We made the crossing of th...
Mount Winstone, Coast Range. An outstanding peak east of Mount Monmouth was climbed and named on a 1964 expedition of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club. Mount Winstone is still little known, as is the glacial area of the Falls, Tchaikazan, ...
Batura I, Attempt and Tragedy. Atsushi Inenaga led a team in an attempt on Batura I (7785m) via the south face. Team members were Seki Tsuyoshi, Sugiyama Hirota, Takasaki Wataru and Fujita Yasunobu. Batura I was first scaled by the German climbers...
Churen Himal. An Italian Expedition led by Paolo Consiglio and composed of Franco Alletto, Carlo Claus, Ignazio Piussi, Aldo Gross, Sergio Bellini, Claudio Dal Bosco, Piergiorgio Franzina, Giorgio Giacomelli and Vincenzo Monti failed to climb Chur...
Makalu Ascent and Tragedy and Kangchungtse. The Polish Makalu Expedition consisted of Krystyna Palmowska, Amalia Kaploniak, Jolanta Patynowska, Dr. Ryszard Dlugolecki, Tomasz Kopys, Ryszard Kolakowski, Zbigniew Kacuga and Zbigniew Skierski and me ...
FALLING ROCK, RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILUREWashington, Mount RainierMichael Maude (22) and Russell Ward (28) left Camp Muir for the Gibralter ledge route in the early hours of May 26, 1985. They arrived at the Bee Hive around 0300 and began to cross the C...
Cordilleras Blanca. Raura, Chacua, Volcánica and Central. The names of the members of our expedition were Jan Weigel, Adam Zyzak, Tadeusz Marek, Alina Chytros, Zbigniew Bojarski, Jan Junger, Adam Bilczewski, Bronislaw Korzec, Roman Trzeszewski, Jo...
The Mountaineers, Inc., Seattle, Washington, have made great strides: “To prevent mountaineering accidents it is necessary to educate the climbers themselves.” This organization has spearheaded the formation of the Mountain Rescue and Safety Counc...
Squaretop Mountain, 1989. In August, 1989, Mike Colacino and I made the first free ascent of the west face of Squaretop Mountain. We climbed a 1600-foot dihedral on the buttress on the right skyline as seen from Green River Lakes. The Lowe route b...
Point 465 179 on McArthur, East Ridge. On May 18 and 19, Grant Stathem and I climbed a new route on the south buttress of Point 465 179 on the east ridge of McArthur. We had 5000 feet of very pleasant climbing on good granite with little objective...
On October 17, Mike Caldwell (20) and Don Fredrickson (27) started up the West Buttress route. Short days slowed their progress, but after three consecutive hammock bivouacs they had surmounted all of the major technical difficulties of the route ...
Sia Kangri. We have returned from traversing the entire Siachen Glacier and an ascent of Sia Kangri (7422 meters, 24,350 feet). There was a war going on, right in the heart of the mountains of central Asia, a war mostly unknown to the outside worl...
Exploratory Mountaineering in the Revelation Mountains. After two weeks of frustrating waiting in Anchorage in one of the worst Mays in recent years, Paul Gonzalez and Scott Raynor were flown to the Lyman Glacier in the northern Revelation Mountai...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel Mountain, Gooseberry RouteTwo climbers reached the small belay stance at the end of pitch three on the route “Gooseberry” (5.8). This is a popular local eight...
Manaslu Solo Winter Attempt, 1991. Frenchman Eric Monier attempted to climb the normal route on Manaslu in winter. He reached 7950 meters on January 6, 1991 before having to give up the attempt. He realized he had been hallucinating. He had been t...