Oregon—Eagle Cap, Wallowa Mountains: On August 22, 1953, Sylvia L. Carlson (28), a new member of the Inter-Mountain Alpine Club of Richland, Washington, slipped coming down a small snowfield on Eagle Cap, Wallowa Mountain, Oregon. She broke an ank...
Tower Butte. On October 23, Jason Keith and I made what we believe was the first ascent of Tower Butte. We rented a boat at Wahweap Marina near the Glen Canyon Dam on Lake Powell and went uplake to a campsite a short way up Labyrinth Canyon. We hi...
Nevado Negro Overo, Sierra de Famatina. Antonio Berochia Nigris, Sergio Gino Job and Antonio Yacante climbed this peak from April 16 to 24, finding pre-Columbian ruins on the top (20,177 feet).Mario Fantin, Club Alpino Italiano
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCKCalifornia, Joshua Tree National MonumentOf the 20 reports sent in from this location, six could be identified as actual climbing accidents. Four involved falls either on lead or seconding, and one was a fall which resulted fr...
Everest, Kangs hung Face Attempt. In the post-monsoon season, we were a small team with no support personnel or porters, although we had 43 yaks and a small group of family and friends who accompanied us to the Kharta and then the Kama valleys as ...
Adrar Ti-n-Taouafa, southwest pillar. During a three-week stay in the Algerian desert, Gerke Hoekstra, Ronald Naar, and I explored an area southwest of the small town of Arak. Besides a couple of ascents on various mountains via classic lines, Ger...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION (PULLED OUT)Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Rack of the Lake CragC.T. and R.W. were climbing a 5.9 route at the Back of the Lake on September 27,1993, when C.T. fell while leading. His last piece of prote...
Gasherbrum I Tragedy. A Spanish expedition led by Lluís Vandellós had as its other members Josep Grañó, Albert Ibáñez, Carles Requena and Genís Rodríguez. They established Base Camp on August 1 at 5000 meters. They placed Camps I and II at 6000 an...
Sudarshan. Sudarshan (6507 meters, 21,350 feet) has become a very popular objective particularly for Indian expeditions. An expedition led by Gautam Mukherjee reached the summit on June 6. A Spanish expedition and three other Indian groups were al...
Médecine et Montagne, by Jean Rivolier. Collection Sempervivum. Paris: Arthaud, Masson et Cie., 1956. 204 pages; ills. Price 960 Fr. francs. Dr. Rivolier, the physician with the 1951-1953 French expedition to the Adélie Coast of Antarctica and on ...
Siniolchu Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Sen Hiraizumi, Atsushi Koyama, Ryosuke Wakusawa and I as leader. On May 8, we reached only 4800 meters and had to turn back because of bad weather and a tight schedule. We established Base Camp at ...
Purcell RangeSultana Pk. (10,500 ft.). 1944 first ascent by Mr. and Mrs. I. A. Richards. The mountain is one mile W. of Mt. Nelson, its N. glacier draining to Bruce Creek (App. xii, 360; map). It is the snow speak to the right in the lower illustr...
Mount Asgard, Bavarian Direct. A group of five climbers (Christian Schlesener, Mani Reichelt, Toni Grad, Luck Guscelli and Markus Bruckbauer) opened a new line, Bavarian Direct, on the west face of Mount Asgard. The party reached the summit on Aug...
Copa, Various Activity. It was reported that French climbers were busy on Copa (6173m) in April and May, 1997. Gael Bouquet des Chaux first soloed the Southwest Pillar, a 400-meter rock climb (D+) that ends at P.5300m, in six hours on April 27. He...
Chimborazo Traverse and Other Ecuadorian Ascents. Six members of Cumbres Andinas, Quito, made between November 1 and 4, 1979, the first complete traverse of Chimborazo. The group, led by M. Jácome, placed a camp on a rocky platform between the Rei...
Moonlight Buttress, East Face, Whiteys on the Moon. The natural line of our route, Whiteys on the Moon (V 5.10 A3, 9 pitches, 12 holes), named after a Gill Scott Heron song, climbs a thin crack system 50 feet right of the Moonlight Buttress route....
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Wister. On July 10, Jack Miller (36) and Joan Miller (32) were making an ascent of Mount Wister via the Northeast couloir. When they were about half-way up the couloir, Mrs. Miller attempted to warn Mr. Mill...
Trisul, Various Attempts. It was reported that during October three expeditions attempted Trisul (7120 m) from the west via the west face/west ridge. All failed. A Spanish team led by Lorenzo Buil stopped at 5200 meters due to heavy snow; a German...
Mt. Buckner, Complete Southeast Ridge. On my first climb of Goode Mountain two years ago, the striking southeast ridge of Mt. Buckner caught my eye, but I was sure that such an obvious line must have been climbed decades before. After climbing Goo...
Sawtooths, Mt. Ne’er-do-well and Baron Spire, new routes. In August 2007 Trevor Bowman and I climbed two new routes in the Baron Spire area. The first was on Peak 9,211', the highest summit on the serrated ridgecrest just north of Baron Spire. A B...