Jogin II. An expedition led by Amulya Sen finally succeeded in making the first ascent of Jogin II (20,208 feet) after previous unsuccessful attempts. They established Base Camp on the Kedar Glacier on September 30. On October 11 from Camp II at 1...
Cerro Torre. On February 17, Brazilian Makoto Ishibe and I reached the summit of Cerro Torre via the Maestri route. He is the first Brazilian to make the ascent. We left Base Camp on February 16 and climbed five pitches above the standard snow-cav...
A New Climbing Club in Ecuador. In August, 1972 a group of expatriate residents in Ecuador organized an English-speaking climbing club in Quito, the International Andean Mountaineers. The club meets every Wednesday evening at the Club Wildcatter P...
New Altitudes in the Chaltén (Fitz Roy) Area. The maps of the Instituto Geográfico Militar Argentino which were published last year now allow a more exact determination of altitudes in this region. An Argentine publisher, Zaguier and Urruty, has c...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. A small Japanese expedition led by Tamio Hitachi failed to complete the line of the Japanese Couloir route on Gasherbrum I, followed by the previous Catalan group. Their attempt ended at 7400 meters in mid Septe...
Bharte Khunte Attempt. An Indian team led by Romesh Bhattacharjee attempted Bharte Kunta (6578 meters, 21,580 feet) from the Gangotri Glacier. They reached a high point of 6450 meters.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
Alpine Ski Tour. By Robin Fedden. London: Putnam, 1956. 93 pages, ills.; map. Price 30 s.Anyone contemplating a ski traverse of the Haute Route would certainly find much of interest and practical value in this glorified guidebook to one of the fin...
Gemmigela I (Twin I) Ascent and Tragedy. A Japanese expedition of eight was led by Kenshiro Otaki. On October 29, Shigeru Yokokawa and Sherpas Pasang Tensing, Dawang and Pasang completed the first ascent of the peak (7350 meters, 24,144 feet), but...
Ellesmere Island, Ski Tour and Various Ascents. Flying from Resolute on the last day of June, Californians Les and Bev Wilson (leaders), Sergio Aragon, Gary Bard, Jane Koski, Ellen Lapham, Jeff Tarmy, and myself, joined by Alex Jolies of Switzerla...
Huandoy Sur, Desmaison Route, Second Ascent. We went to Peru between June and August, 1997, to climb Huandoy Sur’s south face. At the start there were four of us on the project: Gerome Blanc-Gras, David Jonglez, Daniel Dulac and me. After 20 days ...
In May 2002 Americans Peter Ackroyd and Jim Frush made the first ascent of Gaugiri, an often snowless but isolated 6,110m rock pyramid on the Tibet border. The Nepalese Ministry of Tourism places Gaugiri at 84° 11' 16" E, 29° 02' 45" N. This agree...
Preliminary High Latitude CenterStudy Report, Mount McKinley (Denali)Rau, D., M.D., Hackett, P., M.D., Mills, W., MD., Walberg, D., M.S., Quimby, J., B.S.**Rau, D., Assistant Professor, University of Alaska, Anchorage Center for High Latitude Heal...
2010: The birth of a new AAC. As we continued to grow membership and deliver on our mission, we also devoted extraordinary effort to the foundations of our new Five-year Strategic Plan. Indeed, “Double Duty” is the phrase that best defines fiscal ...
The Mountaineers, 1947. The Mountaineers Inc. consists of a main club in Seattle and branches in Tacoma and Everett. The mountain climbing activities of the Seattle club are divided among four groups: Climbers Group, Campcrafters, Summer Outing Gr...
Riccardo Cassin 1909–2009In 2009 the (British) Alpine Club accorded its honorary membership to Riccardo Cassin, one of the legends of Italian mountaineering. Cassin had celebrated his 100th birthday just three and a half months before. Though he c...
Longs Peak, Four Pitches, 24 Hours. In the first week of September, Mic Follari and I completed a new route on the Upper East Face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. Three brilliant pitches of 5.6-5.8 were done to get to Broadway. Pins...
Rama Hanuman, Southwest Face, First Ascent. We made an ascent of Rama Hanuman (5860 m), a not very high but technical peak that wasn’t even on our map. Our guide lent the peak its name, and we measured its altitude with our altimeter. Our first in...
During the week beginning July 17 Ken Krebs and I climbed a direct line up the north face of Naran, via a prominent ice ramp, the north ridge, and the summit snow face. Earlier that week we had ascended several surrounding peaks, including Huiten ...
Everest, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Atsuhiro Aso, Kazuo Nishimura, Ryoten Hasegawa, Shunichi Machi, Junichi Tanaka, Makoto Nebuka, Junichi Sakamoto, Kouichi Matsuda, Norio Ohonishi, Touichiro Mitani, Morio Nakanishi, Kazuyoshi...
Peak 10,170', Attempt, and Peaks 9,695' and 9,720', New Routes. On April 27, John Race and I were flown onto the upper West Fork of the breathtakingly beautiful Barnard Glacier, which sits between two of the St. Elias Range’s highest peaks, Univer...