Denali: A Literary Anthology, edited by Bill Sherwonit (Mountaineers Books, $18.95), is a new volume that collects a variety of literary works. Although the mountaineering accounts collected here will be familiar to most readers of this journal, t...
Mount Palmer, Chugach Mountains. Named after one of the early traders in the Knik River area, George Palmer, this is one of the cirque peaks of the Hunter Creek Glacier, located roughly 35 miles east of Anchorage and ¾ of a mile southwest of where...
W. RYLAND HILL 1912-1988Ryland Hill, an American Alpine Club member since 1961, died on December 22, 1988. He was Dean Emeritus of the College of Engineering at the University of Washington in Seattle. He had also served in UNESCO as chief of thei...
Mount Monarch, South Ridge, 1977. I made solo the first ascent of this obscure route, the south ridge, on the beautiful peak which dominates the southern Tweedsmuir area. On August 14 Fred Beckey and I were flown to Success Lake and made an airdro...
Aided by the unlikely combination of the Peruvian army and the Evangelical Union of South America, our Scottish Andean Expedition set up a forward base in the Urubamba valley at Calca, north of Cuzco, on July 3. At the head of the Quebrada Cancha ...
Squaretop, AC/DC. To the left of the great bay in the east face of Squaretop, the wall forms a long fin that ends in a tower. From Granite Lake our route and the formation are quite obvious. We called the tower “Squaretower” and our route on the f...
Mount Gerdine, Alaska Range. The ascent of Mount Gerdine (10,765 feet) was finally completed on May 5 after two previous unsuccessful attempts. The first was made in September, 1961, by Helga Bading, Dr. Rod Wilson, Gregg Erickson and John Dillman...
Tony Dick and I climbed a new line in the Emperor Face in August 1981. We went left of the Stumps-Logan line. There was much hard ice climbing, much rockfall and rock climbing up to 5.9, A3. In July 1982 Urs Kallen, Tim Friesen and I attempted to ...
Colorado, Boulder, Amphitheater—On November 20, Michael Finnegan (19) and Barbara Reinecke (17) were climbing in the Amphitheater. The weather was mild and warm with sun on the rock. Their clothing was adequate and climbing conditions were good. T...
RAPPEL FAILURE New York, ShawangunksWhile descending Easy Overhang on July 28, a climber (18) rappelled off the end of his rope and fell 20 feet, suffering cuts and bruises. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisIn many places in this climbing area, a 150-...
Crescent South Faces, Bugaboo Spires. The first climb done on the 1968 Calgary Mountain Club camp was the south face of one of the Crescent Towers, the "Donkey’s Ears” face visible from Boulder Camp, and it was climbed by Brian Greenwood, Ron Thom...
STRANDED–FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado State ParkOn June 13, a twenty-one-year-old male with moderate climbing experience was seconding the second pitch of the Bulge (5.7) at Redgarden Wall when he fell about three feet...
Trango Nameless Tower, Insumisioa. It was reported that the Spainish team of Fermín Izco, Mikel Zabalza, and Antonio Aquerreta established a new route on the Northeast Face of the Trango Nameless Tower. Insumisoa was developed at roughly the same ...
Khinyang Chhish. The British-Pakistani Karakoram Expedition, under the joint leadership of Major E. James E. Mills and Captain Jawed Akhter, had overcome the greatest obstacles on the route up the southeast side of Kkinyang Chhish (25,762 feet) ab...
Himalchuli, South Face. The Yuki-To-Iwa-No-Kai Expedition made the second ascent of Himalchuli by a new route. We were Kazumi Fuji- kura, Satoru Tamura, Hisao Miyazaki, Sandaichi Omata, Shigenori Tamura, Tadashi Okamoto, Kenji Morohashi, Kazuhiro ...
Effects Of El Niño On Patagonia’s 1997-’98 Climbing Season. Briefly explained, El Niño is a sporadic warm water current that flows clockwise from west to east along the equator and then south along South America’s west coast against the normal pol...
Liberty Bell, Direct East Face. The first ascent of this marvelous granite face was made in July 1965 (NCCS V, F7, A4). Since then two more V's have been done, one being a variation of the original route, and the other a hard V on the opposite sid...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Ghost River, DuveinafeesOn October 8, around 1400, B.W. was leading the second pitch of Duveinfafees (5.7) when his right foot slipped while bridging and lay-backing a comer. He pulled a fixed pin, a cam...
Lhotse, Solo Attempt. In the second week of October Reinhold Messner climbed through the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm to 24,275 feet along the route of the 80-man Italo-Nepalese Everest expedition accompanied by its Sherpas. He went from the...
Witch Doctor Wall. Aerial photography has illuminated the few remaining “secrets” of the North Cascades, but a newly cut logging road south of Darrington led to the ‘discovery’ of a marvelous 75° granite wall, which rises 1100-feet. It can be seen...