Makalu Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Germans Michael Dacher, Ralf Dujmovits, Richard Koller, my wife Gaby and me as leader and Swiss Norbert Joos, Luis Deuber, Peter Weber and Fredy Graf. We were disappointed with our liaison officer, who d...
AVALANCHE WEATHER, POOR POSITIONWashington, Whitehorse MountainOn May 12, 1985, Denae Rideout (28), her cousin Jeff Tucker (27) and another cousin, Jeff Kollgaard set out to climb Whitehorse at 0800 as part of an annual Mother’s Day family gatheri...
Cordilleras Blanca, Huaytapallana and Yauyos. Peter Barry, Archie Simpson and E. Pahl climbed Lasontay Sur (18,701 feet) in the Huaytapallana. Simpson and Barry then went to the Cordillera Blanca where they made the second ascent of Santa Cruz Chi...
The Kachinas, Phoenix, Arizona, have developed an indoctrination course for prospective members to pass before they can join the organization. On all climbs they adhere strictly to a four-point climber’s safety code. The Club has also developed a ...
Palmer Creek Buttress, 1989. In July 1989, Fred Beckey, Brian Litz and I climbed Palmer Creek Buttress, a west-facing wall of the Palmer Creek branch of New Fork Creek. We scrambled third-class up 1000 feet of scree and loose blocks. The climb the...
St. Elias, Kennedy, Queen Mary, Peak East of McArthur and Steele Attempts. Alaskans John Bauman, Dave McGivern and Leo Americus attempted a winter ascent of Mount St. Elias via the Abruzzi route from the Newton Glacier from March 4 to 23. Due to e...
California, Yosemite National Park, The Iota. On 7 May Jeff Kevser (20) and Thomas Stutzman (20) were climbing the Iota. Kevser led the first pitch, 5.5 plus; Stutzman led the second pitch and was almost at the end, approximately 135 feet up. He s...
Mandani and Sumeru. Base Camp for the Mountain Lovers Association of Asansol was placed at 14,850 feet at the junction of the Gangotri and Kirti glaciers. On October 1 Pranesh Chowdhury, Anil Deb, Tusar Sakar and Sherpas Tshering and Kami climbed ...
Saser Kangri III. I was the leader of the 25-man Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition. We left Leh on April 16 and approached up the Shyok valley along the old “Silk Route” toward Sinkiang. The Shyok had to be forded 17 times before we got on Apr...
Mount Jeffers, Kichatna Spires. On July 1, Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding are said to have climbed a new route on the west face of Jeffers. Details are missing as we go to press.
SLIP ON SNOW, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount NiblockA party of four were making an ascent of Mount Niblock on July 14, 1991. While traversing an upper slope covered with snow, one o...
Manaslu Attempt. Ron Rutland led six British climbers on an unsuccessful attempt to climb the northeast face of Manaslu. They reached a high point of 6000 meters on December 6 but had to give up in the face of bad weather.Elizabeth Hawley
Peaks near Manali. Jamshed Elavia, Nandlal Purohit and Dr. Geeta Mehta, Indians, and Joseph Franci, Marianne Schmidt, Margo Young and Carl Bruesch, Americans, in June climbed Hanuman Tibba (19,455 feet), Manali (18,600 feet), Ladakhi (17,525 feet)...
Pumori, Post-Monsoon Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. A number of ascents of Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet) were made in the post-monsoon period, all by the southeast face and east ridge except where noted. An expedition of 8 Swiss and 2 Germans ...
Gasherbrum II. A 12-member international expedition was led by Pole Marek Grochowski. There were six Poles, three Germans, an American, an Austrian and a South Tirolean. They had planned to climb a partially new route from the Gasherbrum La but fo...
Cerro Matus or Titlis, 1993, Northern Patagonia. In February, 1993, Argentines Patricio Figueredo, Sebastián González Chiozza, Osvaldo Méndez and guide Darío Remorino climbed Cerro Matus (1860 meters, 6102 feet: also called Titlis), on the border ...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Japanese Hiroshi Kawasaki and Kimihiro Kumaga attempted the west ridge of Thalay Sagar in July. They placed Camp I at 5500 meters on July 20, but monsoon rains and snow increased the danger of avalanches and they abandoned th...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, SKI MOUNTAINEERINGOregon, Mount HoodOn June 15, while ski traversing the Coe glacier at about the 9500-foot elevation, Robert Wiebe (58) went out ahead of his two companions and apparently slipped during a turn. Another party of ...
LightningOne phase of this ever-interesting subject to the mountaineer has been taken up by Prof. E. Mathias in a recent issue of La Montagne (March, 1933) in an article on “Les phénomènes de la foudre ascendante et globulaire dans les montagnes e...
Xuelian Feng, Tien Shan. The Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club sent its fourth expedition to attempt Xuelian Feng with me as leader. Expeditions in 1986, 1988 and 1989 had managed to find the route to the south side of the mountain and had...