FALL ON ROCKColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn June 7, a thirty-nine-year-old male experienced climber had started to follow the fourth pitch of Ruper (5.8) on Redgarden Wall when he reached for a hand hold, missed and fell. The belayer cinche...
Trango Nameless Tower, The Book of Shadows. Eric Brand, Jared Ogden, Willie Benegas, and Kevin Starr completed a new route, The Book of Shadows (VII 5.10+ A4 WIV), on the Trango Nameless Tower in July and August. An account of their climb appears ...
Tirich Mir. Two expeditions attempted Tirich Mir (25,267 feet) last summer. First, the German Fritz Stammberger, climbing alone, established a series of camps and had reached possibly 20,000 feet when he was caught in an avalanche from which he em...
A small group from Valparaiso comprising Messrs. P. P. Kuhn and Lalive d’Epinay and Mrs. Kuhn von Boemble, climbed on March 3rd, 1930, the volcano Tinguiririca in the central Andes of Chile, making what they consider to be a first ascent. (Andina,...
Pabil (Ganesh IV). This joint Japanese-Nepalese Police expedition was co-led by Shigehiko Toyoda, Japan and Yogendra Thapa, Nepal. They made the first ascent of Pabil (23,300 feet), climbing the south face to the southeast ridge. The summit was re...
Cerro Marconi Norte. It was reported that Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route (5.5, 500m), solo, on on the north flank of Cerro Marconi Norte, on December 9, 1996. (High Mountain Sports 176)
Liberty Bell, West Face via Serpentine Crack. About 300 feet south of the original west-face route on Liberty Bell there exists a twisting crack system that was a tempting climbing sight. With the increased popularity of rock-climbing due to the n...
STRANDED, POOR CONDITIONSAlberta, Banff National Park, The FingerOn September 28, a party of two was reported overdue from a climb on the previous day. A search by Warden Service rescue crews was initiated and the party was located on the rappels ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLEANING ROUTENew York, ShawangunksIn October 1981, a young man (17) fell ten feet to a ledge while trying to remove a stuck nut on Rusty Trifle (5.3). (Source: Brad Snyder)
Lhotse Tragedy. Nicolas Jaeger, the French climber who had such a remarkable record, particularly of solo ascents, disappeared on Lhotse on April 27. His original plan had been to make the first ascent of the 10,000-foot-high direct south face of ...
Vesper Peak, North Face. Although this face has some of the finest granite in Washington, it will never light anyone’s fire. Broken by a large ledge system two-thirds of the way up, this 1200-foot face lacks any “classic” lines. Between the Vesper...
Kangtega Attempt. This British expedition was made up of Rab Carrington, Alan Rouse and Brian Hall. They attempted to climb Kangtega (22,340 feet) by the northwest ridge, up a short icefall to a rock buttress leading to a long summit ridge. On the...
Kulu. On October 7 the Ladakhi Wangyal and I climbed the unnamed pass of 16,391 feet between Kulu and the Bara Bangahal in the Dhaula Dhar range. The pass is marked on the Survey of India Sheet 52H/SW, somewhat optimistically, as leading from the ...
Kang Guru. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Borislav Aleraj, Stipe Božic, Marijan Cepelak, Mladen Briški, Nenad Pivac, Branimir Predovic, Borislav Starcevic, Branko Šeparovic, Boris Vrbek and me as leader. The main party having left Dumre on Sep...
Alpine Paintings. The Alpine Club (London) recently sold at Christie’s a group of paintings, some of which are of historic interest. Three of these have been secured for the American Alpine Club. All are water- colors.1. Aosta and the Rutor, by Ge...
Tirich Mir East Attempt. A German expedition from Trostberg led by Stefan Rausch had as its objective climbing Tirich Mir by the southeast ridge from the South Barum Glacier. They arrived in Chitral on July 23. They placed three camps on the sites...
Vallecito-Rincón Traverse and Other Mendoza Climbs. A Randis and M. Sánchez, of the Club Mendoza de Regatas, traversed the almost two-mile ridge connecting Vallecitos and Rincón peaks, both over 17,000 feet. It took them 14 hours to traverse all o...
In early August Jim Koewler, Steve Kragh, and Dave Reimann from the Wilderness Encounter Program at Southwest Minnesota State College (Marshall) and I explored and climbed in the jagged “Fry Pinnacles” or Leaning Towers, east of Kaslo, B.C. The 13...
Koz Sar, First Ascent. Ichiro Yamagata led an eight-member team from the Sendai Ichiko Alpine Club of Japan that made the first ascent of Koz Sar Peak (6677m) via a small ridge in the south face. From 5000 to 5900 meters, the climb offered a crumb...
Tukuche Peak. On May 10 the leader of the light Swiss expedition, Georges Hartmann, Aloïs Strickler and Sherpa Sonam Girmi made the first authorized ascent of Tukuche Peak (22,690 feet), while Alfred Hitz and Ruedi Homberger were climbing the 22,3...