Überlebt—Alle l4 Achttausender. Reinhold Messner. BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich, 1987. 247 pages. Many photographs, mostly in color, route paintings.On October 16, 1986 with the ascent of Lhotse, Reinhold Messner became the first to climb all th...
Amadou Alpiniste, by Alexis Peiry. Paris: Désciée de Brouwer. 36 pages; 16 photographs by Suzi Pilet. Price $1.72.This charming book for children tells the story of little Amadou, whose greatest friend, a seasoned rock climber, is killed by lightn...
Deborah and Hess Attempts, Ascent of P 9730. On May 16 Gwain Oka, Ray Brooks, Chris Puchner and I were flown to the Gillam Glacier at 5500 feet. Under clear skies we made two carries to 7500 feet on the north side of P 9730. This north face did no...
Mt. Jefferson (2)—On September 6, 1954, George Watts (20), Ron Coon (18) and Ed Keech (18) with little previous experience, climbed Mt. Jefferson up to the pinnacle by a rather round about route. Keech had gone ahead and scaled the pinnacle and re...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, Paint it Black, Winter Ascent. On January 24, Mike Pennings and I completed the first winter and second ascent overall of Paint It Black (VI 5.11 A3+). The route was first climbed by Steve Quinl...
Kwangde. A Nepalese expedition to the Everest region was led by Kumar Khadga Bikram Shah, President of the Nepalese Mountaineering Association. They were accompanied by a Japanese television team. They had originally hoped to climb Karyolung but c...
Overview. First ascents, high peaks, exploration, and challenging climbs by Indian mountaineers: all were part of 2008 in the Indian Himalaya, a year that will be remembered for energetic climbs and generally settled weather.Sixty-five foreign exp...
PULMONARY EDEMA AT LOW ELEVATION—California, Sawtooth Range. Friday morning I got a call from some Oregon State University friends inviting me to join a group of four that would be climbing in the California Sawtooth Range, west of Bridgeport, Cal...
Across the Frozen Himalaya, by Harish Kohli (Indus Publishing, New Delhi) describes a 2000-kilometer ski traverse from the Karakoram Pass to the Lipu Lekh Pass through the coldest winter in two decades. It is a remarkable adventure by Kohli, who, ...
Quarry Peak, East Face. In August Vern Clevenger and I established, the first route on this massive face in Matterhorn Canyon. Our line lies on the left-most (smoothest) section of the face and follows a right-leaning, left-facing chimney and ope...
P6620, “Lava Mountain,” Talkeetna Mountains. This nondescript peak, located northeast of Granite Peak in the Matanuska Valley, was one of those ever scarcer virgin mountains close to the highway on which a weekend assault can be planned. Vin Hoema...
ROBERT M. SCHWARZENBACH1917-1988Robert M. Schwarzenbach died on August 27, 1988 in Stamford, Connecticut. He was born in Jericho, New York and lived for some years as a youth near Zürich, Switzerland. He received a degree from the Federal Institut...
Bustle Tower, Southeast Face, Mount Sir Harrison Smith, North Buttress, Tathagata Tower, East Face, Crescent Peak, South Ridge, Logan Mountains1, 1977. During our stay in the Logan Mountains, we made the following first ascents: Bustle Tower, 2000...
Urus Este, Cordillera Blanca. The Germans Dettlef Leppert and Johannes Schmidt climbed Urus Este (17,782 feet) on May 14. Further details of what they did are not yet available.César Morales Arnao, Club Andino Peruano
Point 12,612', East Face, The Illness. In August, 1988, Franziska Garrett, James Garrett and Fred Beckey traveled to the seldom-visited St. Lawrence Basin of the Wind River Range to attempt the east face of Point 12,612' on the Wolverine. James an...
Peak 1640, Chugach Range. In the course of a traverse of the Western Chugach icecap from Eklutna to Girdwood, on August 20 my brother William and I made the first ascent of Peak 7640, for which we have proposed the name of “Bellicose Peak”. This i...
Ottarosko, Nuit Range, Coast Mountains. Ottarosko, a 10,000-foot massif near the northern end of the Nuit Range, east of Waddington, is featured by a large, cascading northern glacier and a long, serrated southern ridge. Its most striking aspect i...
Colorado, Boulder, Second Flatiron—On November 5, John Barry (27) and Cleveland Bell were climbing the overhang at the bottom of the summit block of the second Flatiron, southwest of Boulder. This pitch is strenuous but it is normally climbed with...
FALL ON ROCK, WASPS, NO HARD HAT New York, ShawangunksOn May 15, a climber (22) was leading Disneyland, a 5.5 route, when he was stung by a wasp. He fell and hit his head, which resulted in a loss of consciousness for 30- 40 seconds. (Source: Brad...
Gog, Northern Selkirks. On July 26, Frank Zahar and I made a new route on Gog, starting 30 feet left of the Gog-Magog col on the Friendship col side of the formation. We worked up and right to the base of a 25-foot vertical jam chimney. We continu...