Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi, Southwest Apur Attempt

Rakaposhi, Southwest Spur Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Xavier Azagra, María Roca, Quicu Magriñá, Pere Benaiges, Oscar Cadiach, Joan María Magriñá, Jordi Besora, Enric Dalman, Pere Plana and me as leader. We left Jaglot with 68 porters ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported

Cordillera Vilcanota, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. In July, 1999, a seven-member British team led by Andy Owen made several ascents, some perhaps new, from a base camp near Laguna Saranaro in the seldom-visited southeastern Vilcanota. A...


Accident Reports ANAM
New Mexico, Sandia Mountains

New Mexico, Sandia Mountains. On 12 July Marvin Lowe (18), and three others and an instructor, all members of a group of Explorer Scouts were engaged in practice rock climbing. They had just received new equipment. Their advisor had had previous r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Ren Land, Various Ascents

Ren Land, various ascents. Ren Land forms part of the northern shores of Scoresbysund, the largest fjord system in the world. Although there have been several scientific projects in the region, before 2007, when Ren Land was invaded by 50 West Lan...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Belay, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Victoria

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUTE BELAY Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount VictoriaOn August 20, 1986, three climbers (28, 25, and 21) reached the North Peak of Mount Victoria around 1400. They then descended the north ridge toward the Victorian- Collier Col, t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri VI, Southwest Buttress

Dhaulagiri VI, Southwest Buttress. On October 9 Dan Griffith, Peter Carter, Albi Sole and I reached the summit of Dhaulagiri VI (7268 meters, 23,846 feet), via a new route on the southwest buttress. The ascent was made alpine-style in six days fro...


In Memoriam AAJ
Avis Newhall Adams, 1896-1996

AVIS NEWHALL ADAMS1896-1996Avis Newhall Adams died on October 26, 1996, at the age of 100, in Beverly, Massachusetts, after a brief illness following a stroke.She was born on September 1, 1896, in Lynn, Massachusetts, where her ancestors were amon...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri North Attempt

Nilgiri North Attempt. A pre-monsoon expedition of eight Poles and a West German, led by Zbigniew Mlynarczyk, attempted the first-ascent route on the north face and west ridge of Nilgiri North, first climbed in 1962 by the Netherlanders and Lionel...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV, Southwest Pillar, Attempt

Annapurna IV, Southwest Pillar, Attempt. The Czech Mountaineering Federation and Sport Club—Mt. Blanc (Prague) set out in September for Annapurna IV. The expedition comprised climbers from the Czech Republic (Jirí Novak, leader; Martin Otta, subst...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kedarnath Dome

Kedarnath Dome. After installing Base Camp, Camp I and Camp II at 4700, 5700 and 6300 meters on August 11,17 and 20, the following climbed to the summit of Kedarnath Dome: on August 22, Ettore Nanni, Libero Pelotti, Roberta Faldella, Fabrizio Desc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Northeast Face of Symmetry Spire

Northeast Face of Symmetry Spire. This route, climbed by John Dietschy and Dave Dingman July 24, 1957, differs from that climbed in 1953 by Roald Fryxell in that it is just north of the northeast chimney; Fryxell’s route was further around on the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I and II

Gasherbrum I and II. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Gasherbrum II have been climbed by teams of Quota 8000, an organization which has a five-year project to climb all the fourteen 8000-meter peaks. Our first expedition had as climbers Gianni Calca...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Hispar Muztagh, Lupghar West II, Ascent

Lupghar West II, Ascent. It was reported that Nicolas Sieger led a four-member team on an attempt of Lupghar West II (7010m) in August. When time ran out, three of the team members left for home, but Sieger remained behind to continue efforts on t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, Mount Leatherman and Other Winter Ascents, Big Lost River Range

Mount Leatherman and Other Winter Ascents, Big Lost River Range. Rick Albano and I made the following climbs, which we believe were the first winter ascents: Mount Leatherman, up the west ridge and down east ridge, on March 19, Class V; P 11,899 (...


Book Reviews AAJ
To the Untouched Mountain: The New Zealand Conquest of Molamenqing

To the Untouched Mountain: The New Zealand Conquest of Molamenqing, Tibet. Warwick Anderson. Reed, Wellington and Alpenbooks, Seattle, 1983. 242 pages, 12 color plates, maps. $18.00.At 7703 meters, Molamenqing is the world’s forty-fifth highest mo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, New York, Shawangunks

FALLS ON ROCK New York, ShawangunksOf the 17 climbing accidents reported from this area in 1988, 14 were leader falls averaging about six meters. Injuries included nine franctures and four dislocations. In five cases, protection pulled out.Althoug...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Gear Racked Randomly, Fatigue, Failure to Listen to Instincts, Possible Senility, South Dakota, Spearfish Canyon

FALL ON ICE, GEAR RACKED RANDOMLY, FATIGUE, FAILURE TO LISTEN TO INSTINCTS, POSSIBLE SENILITYSouth Dakota, Spearfish CanyonFebruary 6. Aging ice climber (67) begins approach too tired to get to base of climb (100 feet from road), but with the aid ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Medicina de Montaña

Medicina de Montaña. Eusko Jaurlaritza, Editor. Itxaropen, S.A., Zarautz. 1984. 414 pages. Not priced.This collection of papers presented at a mountain medicine meeting held in San Sebastián will unfortunately have limited readership in the USA si...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Disteghil Sar

Disteghil Sar. An Austrian expedition under the leadership of Wolfgang Stefan climbed Disteghil Sar (25,868 feet) in the Hispar Muztagh of the Karakoram. Having left Nagar on May 12, they had ascended the Hispar and Khiang Glaciers and were ready ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falls on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, Etc., Utah, Cottonwood Canyons

FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT, ETC.Utah, Cottonwood CanyonsFour reports of climbing accidents were filed for this area, one resulting in a fatality when a solo climber fell while descending Mount Superior’s north side. The othe...