Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The DMC was very active during 1956, particularly in the West. The focal point of this activity was the Teton area, where club members climbed for six weeks in the summer. Among the many climbs was the first ascent o...
Across the Col d’Hérens in 1892Charles Francis JudsonLOOKING back to memorable days spent in the Swiss Alps I can recall few more delightful in retrospect than those spent in a trip to Arolla and Zermatt. It was the summer of 1892 when I left Veve...
Shivling. An eight-man commercial French team led by Gilles Buisson and Jean-Pierre Frachon and organized by Atalante completed the first French ascent of Shivling. On September 3, Frachon, Christian Carre, Peter Bruijs and Alain Crocombette reach...
Shuwert Sar (6,152m), first ascent. I had only three weeks for my summer vacation in 2007, so I chose to try mountaineering in the Shimshal region, where it is relatively easy to approach the mountains. Guided by the panoramic photos taken by the ...
VITTORIO SELLA1859-1943The American Alpine Club has lost an Honorary Member in the death of Vittorio Sella, in his eighty-fifth year, at his home near Biella, Italy. His connection with the Club was chiefly due to Professor Fay’s acquaintance with...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, NO SPOTTER AND NO HARD HATWashington, Icicle River CanyonOn April 17, 1993, the Everett Mountaineers were conducting a part of their Alpine Scramble course when an instructor (male—67) fell while bouldering. He had done seve...
Kangchenjunga Attempt. An expedition of 12 South Koreans led by Yoo Jae-Il attempted the southwest face of Kangchenjunga but only got to 6800 meters on September 18.Elizabeth Hawley
Paa Daeng Tower, Vang Vieng, new limestone climbs. In November 1999 Kirsten Kremer and I became only the second party to climb in the southeast Asian republic of Laos, when we put up a new route on the overhanging limestone wall of Paa Daeng or Th...
I reconnoitered the Lunag Massif in 2004 with the aim of documenting an ascent of a virgin summit by two of the greatest living mountaineers of the Sherpa and Balti communities, Apa Sherpa and Abdul “Little” Karim. The project was named Un sommet ...
The Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC Tokai) has made 11 expeditions to the Indian Himalaya since 1988, mainly in Ladakh, Lahaul, and Spiti, where they have climbed 15 summits over 6,000m. The 10th, in 2009, planned to attempt the wel...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington (1)—On February 21, a Harvard Mountaineering Club party was climbing in Huntington’s Ravine. The party consisted of W. L. Clarke (21), leader, Oakes Plimpton (22), Keith Kernez, Leif Patterson, and Boyd Everett.Weathe...
AVALANCHE, WARM WEATHERAlaska, Mount Hunter, Moonflower ButtressOn June 6, at 1700, Allan Kearney and Steve Mascioli (38) were climbing during a warm weather spell on the North Buttress Moonflower route of Mount Hunter. Allan was leading the 17th ...
WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mounts Charlton and UnwinOn July 15, two inexperienced climbers (both 25) climbed Mount Charlton in the company of two American climbers whom they met on the mountain. In la...
Antisana Sur, Northwest Face. One of the finest peaks in Ecuador, Antisana Sur (c. 5570 meters, 18,275 feet) was ascended for the third time, now by a new route, the northwest face. Climbers were J. Anhalzer, F. Cáceres, D. Moreno, R. Reinoso, N. ...
Westwater Canyon, Arch Tower, Dry Heaves. In June Bill Duncan and John Burnham made the first ascent of Arch Tower, naming their route Dry Heaves (400', 6 pitches, III 5.10 A1). To reach this remote spire, float the Colorado River from Loma to Mee...
Argonaut Peak, Cascades. The second major peak on the connecting ridge with Mount Smart to the east has been called Mount Argonaut (about 8500 feet). After a disappointing climb of the north face, not as good a climb as it looked, which I made on ...
Nanga Parbat, Kinschojfer Route, Attempt. In 1995, Arnold Zukuta, Chris Kettles and I undertook an expedition to Nanga Parbat to explore the possibility of skiing from the summit via the Diamir Face and the Kinschoffer route. Our intent was also t...
Mount Grainger. On July 14 Fred Beckey, Jim Nelson and I climbed a new route on Mount Grainger in the Chehalis Range, northwest of Harrison Hot Springs. After a beautiful approach from the southeast through a basin decorated with numerous waterfal...
Bear Tooth, White Russian. Taras Mytropan (Ukraine), Sergei Matusevich (Ukraine), and I climbed a direct line on the west face of the Bear Tooth. Starting from base camp on the Root Canal, we went straight toward the saddle between the Moose’s Too...
Haucaña, Hancopiti and Illampu, Cordillera Real, 1986. Six Polish climbers led by Waldemar Zmurko made eleven alpine-style ascents in June 1986, including three new routes in the Ancohuma group: Haucaña (6206 meters, 20,360 feet) via 45° to 50° we...