Illimani, Nada es Seguro. On April 25 Bruce and Sheila Hendricks and I took the 3 p.m. bus from La Paz to Cohoni. During the ride we chatted with locals and were able to hire an arriero (mule/horse driver), whose horses would carry our equipment i...
Washington, Index Town Wall. On 5 October John Svensson (28) and Steve Swinburne attempted some direct-aid climbing on the Index Town Wall, some 60 or so miles north of Seattle. Svensson led a direct aid pitch, and they then started up a very diff...
El Cohete, known for its splitter cracks and the longest routes in Arenales, has a frequently climbed east face, but the other faces are practically unexplored. Its north face had no known routes until, after four days of vertical gardening and ...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HELMETMaine, Acadia National Park, GunklandiaOn October 8th around 11:30 a.m., my girlfriend, a group of friends, and I were top-roping Old Town and a few adjacent routes at the Precipice. Two young women were climbing the nearby ...
Conrad KainALBERT H. MacCARTHYOnce again I have thoroughly enjoyed reading Conrad Kain’s Where the Clouds Can Go (2nd edition), especially those parts covering his life and activities in Western Canada during the days of exploration and climbing i...
Grand Teton, Southeast Chimney. By taking advantage of an important variation pioneered in 1960 by Lev, Greig, Glosser, and Laing, a new route on the Grand Teton was found by David Lowe and me on August 5. The 1960 variation started from Glencoe C...
Kedarnath Dome. This summit (22,410 feet) was again climbed on September 15 by R.S. Varma, Swaran Singh, B.P. Lama, Hirday Ram, Narain Singh, Nima Thondup and Nima Puther, of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. This team originally was attempting Keda...
ELIZABETH WOOLSEY1908-1997An enthusiastic member of the American Alpine Club for 62 years, Elizabeth D. “Betty” Woolsey, 88, died at her home on Trail Creek ranch above Wilson, Wyoming, on January 11. Her last glance was of the meadow, horses feed...
Various ski descents. In the fall Bean Bowers, Ben Ditto, and I completed a ski mountaineering circumnavigation of the Fitz Roy massif. Christened the “Southern Patagonia Ice Cap Expedition”— SPICE Tour for short—we traveled 65 miles, completed se...
When we attended the 40th Celebration of Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) in May 1998, in Peking, we inquired about the possibility of receiving a mountaineering permit for a peak on the China- Bhutan border. We received a good reply. We s...
Blood From The StoneIf it weren’t so big, it would almost have been fun. Five-thousand feet of vertical winter on the east face of Mt. Dickey, Alaska.Sean EastonOur plane spiraled in descent beside the east face of Mt. Dickey. My face was plastere...
Charakusa Spires, 1987 and 1988. The five glacier systems leading up from the head of the Hushe Valley offer remarkably easy access to spectacularly steep walls of rock and ice characteristic of the Karakoram. From July to September 1987, Ruben Mo...
Battle Drums and Geysers: The Life and Journals of Lt. Gustavus Cheyney Doane, Soldier and Explorer of the Yellowstone and Snake River Regions, by Orrin H. and Lorraine Bonney, with foreword by George B. Hartzog, Jr. Chicago: Sage Books, The Swall...
Kuilu, various ascents; Sun Kul Canyon, various ascents. This was the International School of Mountaineering’s second trip to the Kuilu range, the first being in 2000, when we explored the Karator Glacier and its surrounding peaks. Our 2009 trip f...
High Altitude and Man. John B. West and Sukhamay Lahiri, editors. American Physiological Society, Bethesda, 1984. 199 pages, tables, diagrams. $39.00.Thanks to the American Medical Research Expedition to Everest in 1981, physiologists have turned ...
Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), west ridge attempt and Pt. 6,100m. Locals say Khunyang Chhish means “the corner peak.” In 1892 Martin Conway wrote about Khunyang Chhish and in 1908 Workman published a photo of it in the book The Call of the Snowy Hispar...
Our seven-man team was inspired to visit the Djangart region after reading a report in AAJ 2011 by the Anglo-American expedition that climbed in the western part during 2010. We were six Danes (Sune Buur, Carsten Cooper-Jensen, Jakob Fisker, Ander...
Gasherbrum II. Again a number of expeditions have climbed Gasherbrum II by the normal route. All the members of a Japanese expedition reached the summit on July 26. They were Haruyuki Endo, leader, his wife Yuka, Osame Tanabe and Takao Suzuki. Thi...
Devils Tower National Monument: A Climber’s Guide. Steve Gardiner and Dick Guilmette. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1986. 136 pages, black and white photographs. $6.95 (paper).Devils Tower is a fantastic volcanic plug that erupts hundreds of feet int...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The DMC was very active during 1956, particularly in the West. The focal point of this activity was the Teton area, where club members climbed for six weeks in the summer. Among the many climbs was the first ascent o...