FALL ON ROCKNew York, ShawangunksIn June 1981, a man (42) fell 30-feet to his death while leading Shockley’s Without (5.3). (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisBoth of these accidents occurred on easy climbing terrain where climbers are more likely to be...
Additional Note: Besides the two great peaks mentioned by Sanchez, this small range has a few more rock peaks, among which are cerros Trinidad and Huariananta, both around 5400 meters. Aside from short scientific and geographic notes, this range h...
Incredible Hulk, Solar Flare. I spotted the line from Blowhard, which takes the left edge of the west face. Just when the sun came ‘round and kissed the face I saw a line of featured but very shallow corners, between the Polish Route and Sunspot, ...
Bastion Spire, Slovenian-Alaskan Route; Garvey Spire. Tim Ciosek (U.S.) and I spent 25 days on the Cul de Sac Glacier (a.k.a. Cool Sac) in the Kichatna Spires. We came to the glacier on June 6 and had amazingly good weather and conditions. On June...
The Mazamas. Obviously, The Mazamas found a few sunny days in 1968. Out of 215 climbs originally scheduled by Climbing and Outing Committees in March, 143 climbing parties actually left Base Camp, 32 of which failed to reach the summit. This repre...
Vertical Pleasures: The Secret Life of a Tax Man. Mick Fowler. Cloudcap Press, Seattle, Washington, 1995. $19.95.I do not read many climbing books. In fact, I only read the classics. Therefore, when I was given Vertical Pleasures and told that it ...
Kun. I led the Graz Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) climb on Kun. Our route led across the Suru River halfway between Parkachik and Rangdom Gompa to Base Camp and thence over Indian Ridge to the plateau and Camp II at 21,000 feet. The su...
Record of the First Approach to Mt. McKinleyJOHN C. REED, JR.U.S. Geological Survey,1 Washington 25, D. C.In 1902 Dr. Alfred H. Brooks, of the U.S. Geological Survey, made a journey that has since come to be considered one of the classics of Alask...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount OwenOn July 15 at 1810, Rene Steque (65) fell 300 feet on snow at the base of the Koven Glacier while returning after a successful ascent of Mount Owen. He had falle...
The Evolution Traverse takes a line along the crest of the Evolution group, linking nine 13,000’ peaks named after contributors to evolutionary theory. Konstantin Stoletov and we, of San Diego’s Pullharder Alpine Club, made the first winter ...
Seventy Years of Climbing On Longs PeakJohn L. J. HartOVER a hundred years ago Longs Peak (14,255 ft.) was a landmark and nothing more. To the French trappers it was Les Deux Oreilles; to the Indians it was Nesotaieux, or the Two Guides. It stood ...
I traveled to Kyrgyzstan in August, beginning my trip once again in Ala Archa National Park outside Bishkek, the capital. The area offers a perfect chance to shake off jet lag and get one’s mountain boots banged around a bit, which I managed to do...
The Southern Vilcanota. John Wilson of Christchurch, New Zealand, and I left the village of Santa Rosa on the south side of the La Raya-Vilcanota divide on July 8 by mining truck, bound for the Mina Korani (16,000 feet) to the northeast. On the 12...
Snafflehound Spire, Snaffleophagus. The northern part of the Bugaboos has a collection of less-impressive spires called the Vowells. The rock tends to have less-perfect lines and less- climbable features than the Bugaboos proper. Overall we were a...
TABLE III1951-82 1959-82 USA CAN.1983 1983 USA CAN.TerrainRock1835107Snow122175Ice7910101Unknown102Ascent or Descent:Ascent1523119Descent117773Unknown2115Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock110878Slip on snow or ice45744Falling rock or object24415E...
FALLING ICE–FALL ON ICENew York, Adirondacks, Poke-O-MonshineIce on the first pitch of the popular 160-foot climb “Positive Thinking” broke off Poke-O-Moonshine Friday and crashed to the ground, taking an Ontario climber with it.Kevin Bailey (34) ...
Les Aiguilles de Chamonix, by Henri Isselin. Paris: Arthaud, 1960. 267 pages, 38 photo-illustrations (including a 6-page panorama), 2 route sketches, an orientation map, and a folding contour map (1:20,000) of the aiguilles W. of the Mer de Glace....
Many People Come, Looking, Looking, by Galen Rowell. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1980. 164 pages, color photos. Price $30.00.Even among the many superb photographers of today, Galen Rowell has a quality which immediately identifies his work, just a...
Other Climbs in the Cascades. Cascade Peak, the last unclimbed peak in the Cascade Pass region, was ascended on July 23rd by Schoening, Sharpe and Beckey. From Gilbert, at the end of the newly-extended Cascade River Road, the party made its way th...
Land of Mountains, Hiking and Climbing in New Zealand, by PeterRadcliffe. Seattle: The Mountaineers.Serene and pastoral on one hand, displaying the world’s biggest ten and twelve thousand-foot peaks and atrocious weather on the other, New Zealand ...