FALL ON SNOW, SKI MOUNTAINEERING, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BINDING ADJUSTMENT Alaska, Chugach MountainsFrom June 28 to July 5, 1992, I (Todd Miner, 36) was co-leading a University of Alaska Anchorage Wilderness Leadership Expedit...
Agonizing DecisionsCharles S. Houston, M.D.ONE OF MY friends and a companion were almost over an 18,000-foot pass in Nepal in the course of a long trek. It was mid-afternoon, the weather was threatening, and the snow lay deep along the track. My f...
Bradford Washburn: Mountain Photography. Edited and compiled by Anthony Decaneas; Introduction by Clifford S. Ackley. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1999. 144 pages. $29.95.If God is in the details, Brad Washburn’s first book based entirely on his o...
Rimo II and IV. An Indo-International expedition, led jointly by Sonam Palzor and Doug Scott, climbed Rimo II (7373 meters, 24,190 feet) and Rimo IV (7169 meters, 23,520 feet). The Indian members were Sonam Palzor, Tsewang Smanla, Kanhaiya Lal, Mo...
Northwest Face of Slesse Peak, Chilliwack Range. The northwestern edge of Slesse Peak had intrigued climbers for some time. Slesse has a very steep northeast face descending to Middle Creek and a steep north profile edging up from the ridge separa...
FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST British Columbia, North Cascades Range, Canadian Border PeakOn June 11, 1994, a party of five climbers went out on a scheduled ACC attempt on Canadian Border Peak. After four hours of approach and snow ...
K2’s South FaceJerzy Kukuczka, Klub Wysokogórski Katowice, Poland Translated by Ingeborga Dowbrawa-CochlinTOGETHER WITH Tadeusz Piotrowski, I found myself beneath K2 as a member of a large international expedition, organized by Karl Maria Herrligk...
The Danish Janak Himal Expedition comprised Allan Christensen, Bo Belvedere Christensen, Jan Mathorne, and myself as leader. All had made several expeditions to the Himalaya previously, most recently in spring 2000 to the Polish Route on the south...
Everest, Northeast Ridge Attempt and North Ridge Ascent. Our co-leaders were Briton Harry Taylor and New Zealander Russell Brice. The other members were Britons Alan Hinkes, Bill Barker, Andy Parkin, Len Atkinson, Base Camp Manager Sam Roberts, Dr...
Everest: Alone at the Summit. Stephen Venables (Thunders Mouth Press, $14.95). First American edition of Venables’ climb of the Kangshung Face of Everest (see Ed Webster’s Snow in the Kingdom, reviewed above). Tom Holzel called it an intensely tol...
Adaptation of Avian Eggshells to High Altitude. Adult birds and mammals compensate in part for reduced oxygen concentrations at high altitudes by increasing the rate of convective air flow across respiratory surfaces. Birds which breed at high alt...
Squamish Chief. A number of new routes were made during the past year on the Squamish Chief. Tantulus Wall: In years of climbing on the Chief, we had always dismissed the sheer 1000-foot Tantulus Wall as an unlikely area for a route. The upper thi...
Rooster Comb Attempt, Mount Dan Beard. Mark Houston, Rick Stockwell and I spent the month of April in the Ruth Amphitheatre. Our first objective was the Rooster Comb via the col between it and Huntington. Our attempt reached the 9800-foot icefield...
Travel update for Nepal, spring 2005. Tourism arrivals in Nepal continue to plummet due to increasing violence surrounding the growing Maoist insurgency, and the February 1st royal takeover of political control of the country. According to the Nep...
Himalayan Odyssey, by Trevor Braham. 1974, London: George Allen & Unwin LTD. £6.50. 243 pages, 14 maps, 31 black and white illustrations.Trevor Braham loves the mountains. He likes climbing; he likes climbers; he likes the geography and the pe...
K2 Attempt. Peter Arbic, Troy Kirwan and I arrived at Base Camp on June 20. We wanted to climb the south-southwest ridge of K2, the “Magic Line,” ascended by the Poles Wróz and Piasecki and Czech Božik in 1986. Starting on June 29, in three days w...
First Ascents and Explorations from the Mons and Freshfield IcefieldsAlden F. MegrewTWENTY-EIGHT years ago a great peak was discovered in British Columbia, only six miles to the west of Mt. Forbes; a solitary mountain mass, isolated from the numer...
Letter to the Editor- Climbing EthicsThomas HigginsIN THE 1982 ISSUE of the American Alpine Journal, Bruce Morris wrote a historical and interpretive article on face climbing in Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows. As a contributor to the face climbing ...
Premiere Buttress, The Phoenix. In March Don Reid and I climbed this route that starts in an obvious left-slanting crack system several hundred feet right of the Beckey-Goechoel route. Difficult climbing over decomposing rock leads to a belay ledg...
MARGUERITE SCHNELLBACHER COVENEY 1900-1962"If you would seek her monument or final resting place look in our hearts.” These words in the beautiful memorial sent out by her family were to many the first knowledge that Marguerite was even seriously ...