Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Poor Communications, Inexperience, Weather, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Twin Owls

STRANDED, POOR COMMUNICATIONS, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHERColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Twin OwlsOn June 9, 1992, at 1000, Brandon Latham (20) and Tom Anderson (19) began an ascent of Twin Owls via the East Ridge I (5.8). At 1200 Anderson was ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Regions of the Heart: The Triumph and Tragedy of Alison Hargreaves

Regions of the Heart: The Triumph and Tragedy of Alison Hargreaves, by David Rose and Ed Douglas (National Geographic Press, $25), is an important biography that seeks to set the record straight about Hargreaves—her drive, her status as a professi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt

Everest Attempt. The members of our expedition were Mari Abrego, Víctor Arnal, Josema Casimiro, Antonio Ubieto, Miguel Lausín, Ignacio Cinto, Teodoro Palacín, Patxi Senosiaín, José Garcés, Iñaki Arregui, José Marciano, Jesús Gómez, Julio Benedé, O...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Huntington, French Route Attempt

Mount Huntington, French Route Attempt. Rom Lee, Craig Reinin- ger, Eric Simonson and I attempted the French route on Mount Huntington alpine-style. We ascended the French face from the west fork of the Ruth Glacier on June 27 after sitting in Bas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Langley, East Face of Southeast Peak

Mount Langley, East Face of Southeast Peak. In April Will Crjenko and I climbed this route by first traversing over the ridge from Cottonwood Lakes. The climb involved a snow descent to the face, then eight leads of moderate to serious rock climbi...


Accident Reports ANAM
New Hampshire, Joe English Hill

New Hampshire, Joe English Hill—On August 30 Gordon Weston (29) and Harry King (30) went to Joe English Hill in New Boston, New Hampshire. This cliff is several hundred yards long with climbs from one to two hundred feet high.King and Weston roped...


Accident Reports ANAM
Pulmonary Edema, Exhaustion – Alaska, Mt. McKinley

PULMONARY EDEMA, EXHAUSTION—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. A group of Japanese climbers from the Saitama Alpine Club became exhausted while making a carry from 16,000 feet to 17,000 feet on the West Buttress route. Four of them bivouacked on the night of M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Jancarurish

Nevado Jancarurish. Fortunato Mautino and I made this ascent between August 10 and 20, 1965, having approached from Tarica through the Punta Carbón, Quebrada Racuay, Quebrada Quitaracsa, Quebrada Mayobamba and finally the Quebrada Tayapampa until ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Southwestern China, P 6509 Attempt, Kang Karpo Range, Northwest Yunnan

P 6509 Attempt, Kang Karpo Range, Northwest Yünnan. In September and October, Gary Driggs, Henry Everding, Clifford Leight, Klev Schoening, Pete Schoening and I, supported by Professor Zhou Zheng, Sun Po, Zhou Hong, Lin Conq, Sun Yu and Dr. Shi Qu...


In Memoriam AAJ
Dr. Heinrich Dübi

Dr. Heinrich Dübi, best known to us for his historical writings dealing with the Alps, and in particular for researches concerned with the Paccard-Balmat ascent of Mont Blanc, is dead at the age of 94. Dübi was editor of the 5. A. C. Jahrbuch from...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks near Scott Peak, Alaska Range

Peaks near Scott Peak, Alaska Range. Eric Townsend, Doug Worth and I left Eielson Visitors Center in McKinley Park and walked southeast up Sunset Glacier to the end of the northeast arm, where icefalls blocked further progress. We made the followi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Jasper National Park, Mount Edith Cavell

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Jasper National Park, Mount Edith CavellOn June 28, two climbers ascended the East Ridge of Mount Edith Cavell, and made the summit by 1300. They began descending the East Ridge, and were over the steep section b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Morrison, South Ridge of South Peak, Previously Unreported

Mt. Morrison, South Ridge of South Peak, Previously Unreported. Kirk Schultz and I climbed the South Ridge (IV 5.9+, eight roped pitches in 2,000' of climbing) of South Peak of Mt. Morrison in November, 1995. Not much needs to be said about the ro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, East Karakoram, Saser Kangri 1 Attempt and Tragedy

Saser Kangri 1 Attempt and Tragedy. S.C. Nej led a 44-member Indian Border Security Force team that attempted this peak (7672 meters). They started from Delhi on July 6, approaching from the west through the Nubra valley. The summit camp was estab...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Castle Tower

Castle Tower. The first ascent of this beautiful 400-foot high sandstone tower near Moab was made on September 15 and 16, 1961, by Layton Kor and me. The route follows a crack and chimney system in a right- angle dihedral on the southeast corner. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Texas, The Chisos Mountains of Texas

The Chisos Mountains of Texas. Probably of most interest to the mountaineer in Texas are the Chisos Mountains. The rugged volcanic range rises sharply from the desert floor in a spectacular maze of jagged peaks, deep canyons, spires and volcanic n...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California - Sierra Nevada, Mount Clarence King, Southeast Face

Mount Clarence King, Southeast Face. This 12,909-foot mountain dominates the upper watershed of the Kings Canyon region although it is surrounded by higher peaks. On the southeast side of the beautiful horn-shaped mountain is a steep 800-foot face...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, North Face

Huascarán Norte, North Face. Xavier Fargeas and I climbed the north face of Huascarán Norte alpine-style by the 1966 Paragot route: one day of approach from the Llanganuco Lakes, four-and-a-half days on the face and one day of descent on the norma...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Cambria Icefield Traverse

Cambria Icefield Traverse. The Cambria Icefield lies east of Stewart, B.C., in the Boundary Ranges of the Coast Mountains. It is a large expanse of ice, punctuated by numerous peaks of 6,000 to 9,000 feet. From the south end of the Cambria Icefiel...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ratong

Ratong. This 21,911-foot peak, which lies on the Nepal-Sikkim frontier in the Kangchenjunga group, was climbed by an Indian expedition, led by Colonel B. S. Jaswal, principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute of Darjeeling. Nawang Gombu, C...