ABANDONMENT–CREATING A HAZARDAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressJoseph Klopack (51) and his 15-year-old son Joseph, Jr. checked into the Talkeetna Ranger Station on June 3, where Ranger John Leonard briefed them. The pair flew to the Kahiltna Ba...
Mt. Columbia—the Problem of the West FaceThe west face of Mt. Columbia has seldom been observed or photographed from near viewpoints. During the month of July, 1931, Messrs. Cromwell, Spadavecchia and the writer were in the Athabaska valley1 and e...
Rock Climbing in AustraliaHENRY BARBER made a six-week visit to Australia in the southern autumn of 1975. He climbed in six states, refusing to use aid on any climb. Before his arrival in March, there were no climbs rated above 21 which did not re...
In 2009 the 15m sailing vessel Gambo spent July and August supporting glaciological and oceanographic research on two major outlet glaciers of the Greenland ice sheet. When the skill set of the crew was not in demand for science objectives, it was...
PAUL ROPER McINTYRE1906-1936Paul McIntyre was born June 25th, 1906, and lost his life on September 21st, 1936, in an automobile accident. He was graduated from Brown University in 1928, taking his A.B. in English, magna cum laude. In 1932 he recei...
Mount Hunter Via the West Ridge, a Proposed AscentBradford WashburnMOUNT HUNTER1 is the highest unclimbed peak in the Alaska Range and doubtless the most outstanding virgin peak in Alaska. No party has ever attempted to climb Hunter, and I do not ...
Cerro Picachos, various new routes. This granite area off Hwy 85, 50 miles north of Monterrey, is as beautiful as it is wild. I will not even attempt to give directions. Go to Sombreretillo and ask the locals. Three- to four-hour walk in. The clim...
Foraker, Archangel Ridge. An eight-man British team sponsored by the Army Mountaineering Association made the second ascent of the Archangel Ridge of Foraker, which was first ascended by Gerry Roach and party in 1975. It rises up the east side of ...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt and Sia Kangri Ski Ascent. On June 6 Richard Franzl and Franz Breitenbaumer skied up the middle peak (7122 meters, 23,366 feet) of Sia Kangri. On June 7 Jean-Luc Beausire, Jörg Daum, Fritz Fehlmann, Pierre-Yvan G...
KENNETH M. WINTERS 1923-1981The climbing community has lost one of its most conscientious friends. Ken died of a heart attack while leading a climb on Mount Shasta on May 24, 1981.Born in Portland, Oregon on April 19, 1923, he was graduated from L...
Barbara Bacher, Jakob Oberhauser, Thomas Scheiber, Heiko Wilhelm, and I, all from Austria, established a series of new routes in Oman. We kicked off our winter season with the first ascent of 40 Räuber, a technical 8b in Little Gourgette, a crag c...
FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, POOR POSITION Washington, North CascadesOn August 7, 1986, George Newberry, director of the National Outdoor Leadership School’s (NOLS) Northwest Office, reported that Neal Bibbins (23) had been hit in the face with a r...
On February 8, 2010, Philippe Hourcle, Luc Pauget, and I put up Les Becs de Gaz pissaient leur Flamme au clair de lune (180m, TD+, 6b+) on the East Al Hamra Tower. The towers lie in northeast Oman above the old town of Al Hamra and are reached by ...
New Routes on Mt. Wister and Veiled Peak. In 1932, on page 19 of The Teton Peaks and Their Ascents, Fritiof M. Fryxell wrote: “Undoubtedly it [the north face of Mt. Wister] will furnish one of the best climbs in the range.” Yet for 20 years no one...
Mt. Paget and other attempts. From February to May 2005 a multi-national team of climbers sailed the yacht Gambo from Ushuaia in Argentina to King Edward Point in South Georgia, and then back to Pireapolis in Uruguay. The team, which included Tom ...
Exploration of the Northern Monashee RangeRaymond T. ZillmerTHE Monashee (Mountain of Peace) Range, formerly called the Gold Range, is in British Columbia, immediately W. of the Selkirks and S. E. of the Cariboos. The Columbia and the Canoe Rivers...
IMAX Everest. Produced by MacGillivary Freeman Films. Mountain footage filmed and directed by David Breashears. Camera assistant, Robert Schauer. Screened at Edwards IMAX theater, Irvine, California. Price of admission: $7. Film time: 48 minutes.E...
FALL OR SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – RUNNING ROPE THREADED THROUGH WEBBING, WEBBING FAILEDColorado, Vail, Rigid DesignatorLate on the morning of March 21, Christopher Boratenski (31) an experienced climber, was climbing the Rigid Designato...
Southwest Borkoldoy, Piks 4,608m, 4,778m, 4,661 m, 4,705m, and Damdjjegs, first ascents; At Bashi region, first ascents. We traveled to Kyrghzstan in September for a month’s climbing. After a few days acclimatizing in the Ala Archa National Park, ...
Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-72U.S.A.1959-72CAN.U.S.A.1973CAN.TerrainRock113199902Snow59495323River4010Unknown 2280Ascent or DescentAscent848115801Descent76773384Unknown 1168130Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock61253632Failure ...