The Mountaineers, 1947. The Mountaineers Inc. consists of a main club in Seattle and branches in Tacoma and Everett. The mountain climbing activities of the Seattle club are divided among four groups: Climbers Group, Campcrafters, Summer Outing Gr...
Riccardo Cassin 1909–2009In 2009 the (British) Alpine Club accorded its honorary membership to Riccardo Cassin, one of the legends of Italian mountaineering. Cassin had celebrated his 100th birthday just three and a half months before. Though he c...
Longs Peak, Four Pitches, 24 Hours. In the first week of September, Mic Follari and I completed a new route on the Upper East Face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. Three brilliant pitches of 5.6-5.8 were done to get to Broadway. Pins...
Rama Hanuman, Southwest Face, First Ascent. We made an ascent of Rama Hanuman (5860 m), a not very high but technical peak that wasn’t even on our map. Our guide lent the peak its name, and we measured its altitude with our altimeter. Our first in...
During the week beginning July 17 Ken Krebs and I climbed a direct line up the north face of Naran, via a prominent ice ramp, the north ridge, and the summit snow face. Earlier that week we had ascended several surrounding peaks, including Huiten ...
Everest, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Atsuhiro Aso, Kazuo Nishimura, Ryoten Hasegawa, Shunichi Machi, Junichi Tanaka, Makoto Nebuka, Junichi Sakamoto, Kouichi Matsuda, Norio Ohonishi, Touichiro Mitani, Morio Nakanishi, Kazuyoshi...
Peak 10,170', Attempt, and Peaks 9,695' and 9,720', New Routes. On April 27, John Race and I were flown onto the upper West Fork of the breathtakingly beautiful Barnard Glacier, which sits between two of the St. Elias Range’s highest peaks, Univer...
Kula Kangri and Jiexiang, attempts. During April and May our small team attempted Kula Kan- gri (7,554m). Stephen Chaplin from the U.K., Laila Ojefelt and Lars Svens from Sweden, and I from Australia were the only people on the mountain, which has...
The Cold- Dance ReviewWinter Ice Climbing and its Techniques on KitchenerJeff Lowe “To dance beneath the diamond sky with one hand waving free…”—Bob DylanPart I — Winter WaltzesTHE dance really started during the winters of 1971 and 1972. Up to th...
Hold the Heights: The Foundation of Mountaineering. Walt Unsworth. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. 432 pages, 24 pages of black-and-white photos, 14 maps. $29.95.This is an extraordinary book, a joy to read and a rich history of mountaineering fr...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-791951-7919801980USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock1613188885Snow9501595011Ice5312101River 7220Unknown10400Ascent or DescentAscent12891828011Descent1059121444Unknown18519172Immediate CauseFall or slip...
PARTY SEPARATED – ILLNESS, POOR PLANNING AND LOGISTICS, MISCOMMUNICATIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Muir Snowfield Paradise GlacierJohn Repka was last seen alive descending the Muir Snowfield on May 16 during a planned day climb with the group One ...
The Gunks Guide, Third Edition. Todd Swain. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1994. $22.00.Comment: A bold new cover and design, better typeface, clearer cliff topos, hole-punch for threading to rack—plus a small but precious collection of ne...
FROSTBITE, HYPOTHERMIA, BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE, LOST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn January 22, 1982, Jeffrey Batzer (20) and Hugh Herr (17) arrived at Pinkham Notch; immediately after checking in, they started up the steep,...
ODE TO UNIVERSITY PEAKRobert W. Cromer, M.D.Far to the North where the glaciers lie,And Northern Lights sweep the summer sky,Where the great brown bear and Dall Sheep stray,There’s a wild land where the storm winds play.The land of the Copper Rive...
INADEQUATE WATER–DEHYDRATION, EXHAUSTIONNorth Carolina, Moore's Wall, Sentinel ButtressAt approximately 1800 on June 6,1 received a radio communication from seasonal office assistant RyanMoorefield. He had received a call from Stokes County Commun...
James Hopkins Trust and Honey Buttress, Ascents. I first went out to Greenland in 1996 with Silvo Karo (Slovenia) and Jerry Gore (U.K.). We climbed a route on the left-hand pillar of Nalumasortoq and, on the third or fourth day of our climb, while...
Abercrombie Mountain, Southwest Face. For a few years Abercrombie Mountain (2,120m) had been in the back of my mind, for a time when conditions were decent and I had a good partner. Its southwest face starts at only 640m, presenting an unclimbed 1...
HAPE, RAPID ASCENTAlaska, Mount ForakerOn April 20, 1984, a four member party calling themselves “Tom’s Expanding Headband” expedition, flew to the Kahiltna Glacier at 2100 meters for a climb on the Southeast Ridge of Mount Foraker. After spending...
IN late November 1975 I wrote Dave Fischer, the Political Officer in our Embassy in Kathmandu and a law school classmate, about the possibility of a permit for Cho Oyu. He responded, “Cho Oyu isn’t available but how about Everest?” My response w...