Yalungkang Attempt. Both Cherie Bremerkamp and I were aware of the many advantages of climbing an 8000-meter peak with two people in alpine style. During the summer of 1980 we received permission to climb the west summit of Kanchenjunga, Yalungkan...

The Rocky Mountains, by Wallace W. Atwood. 8vo., 324 pages, with 32 photographic illustrations and numerous drawings and maps. New York: The Vanguard Press, 1945. Price $3.75.This is the third of the American Mountain Series, its predecessors havi...

Mount Everest, Tenth Ascent by an Individual. I started my career as a mountaineer about 15 years ago, spending most of the season holding an ice ax and rope, crawling on the snow and making way for climbers to get to the summits of peaks. In 1980...

Pigeon Spire, East Face, Bugaboos. Tom Thomas, Dave Knox and I made a new climb in 12 hours on August 26 which is sure to be climbed free in the near future. The route followed the southern (left) portion of the east face of Pigeon Spire (V, 5.10,...

CB 12, 1980. All members of a two-woman, four-man Japanese expedition from Osaka, led by Yoshitoru Hirotani, made the third ascent of CB 12 (6250 meters, 20,506 feet) on August 13, 1980. Base Camp was at the snout of the Dakka Glacier at 13,950 fe...

The Cascade Wall, Subiendo el Arcoiris. Though about the size and depth of Yosemite, the immense and expansive area of Basaseachic Waterfall National Park hosts almost no routes. El Gigante, the major wall of the area, is up to 1000 meters high an...

Chobutse Tragedy. On October 10 Austrians Ernst Gritzner, leader, his brother Karl, Karl Pfeifer and Udo Ertl climbed from Camp I at 16,650 feet to establish Camp II at 19,200 feet. The Gritzner brothers descended to Base Camp. When Manfred Ehreng...

Everest Southwest Face Winter Attempt. South Koreans led by Park Young- Bae tried to climb the Bonington route on the southwest face of Everest. The first winter attempt on this face was defeated by exhaustion of the climbers, their food and their...

Langtang Lirung Winter Ascent, 1988. A 12-man Polish expedition led by Wojciech Maslowski made a winter ascent of Langtang Lirung by the southeast ridge when on January 3, 1988 Kazimierz Kiszka, Adam Potoczek and Mikolaj Czyzewski reached the summ...

Linda in California. Through the kindness of our former member, Mr. Glen Dawson, we have received a playbill of Linda di Chamouni, given at the Sacramento Theatre, June 10, 1854, only seven years after the American première in New York (A.A.J. iv,...

Bosco Gurin, das Walserdorf im Tessin, by Tobias Tomamichel. 8vo., 155 pages. Illustrated with 83 pen drawings by Hans Tomamichel, 4 diagrams, and 2 sketch maps. Basel: G. Krebs, 1953. Price, Sw.F. 9.75.Bosco Gurin, the only German-speaking villag...

Huascarán Norte, Northwest Ridge. Our party, Danilo Saettone, leader, Tullio Vidoni, Renzo Zaninetti, Gian Luigi Sterna, Emilio de Tomasi, Renato Andorno, Piero Soster and I, set up Base Camp on July 5 not far from the usual normal route to Huasca...

Panwali Dwar. On October 3, George Healey, Winky O’Neale and I made the third ascent of Panwali Dwar (6663 meters, 21,860 feet), which we approached from the Pindari valley to the south. The peak lies on the rim of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. We cli...

P 13,267, Clyde Spires, North Face. A1 Stone and I climbed this route following the left couloir. Follow the main couloir for several hundred feet, then traverse left to a small subsidiary couloir on the left wall of the main couloir, and follow i...

Temple of Sinawava, Soul Craft. On December 12, Karen Hilton and I completed the first ascent of Soul Craft (VI 5.11 A4+) on the steep wall left of the Monkeyfinger route. In ca.1,100 feet, only the first pitch and last 35 feet went free; the rema...

AlpsMont Aiguille. The 450th anniversary of the ascent of this striking peak of Dauphiny, near Grenoble, known in the Middle Ages as “Mons Inascensibilis,” occurred in 1942. In 1492, Charles VIII, King of France, ordered his chamberlin, Antoine de...

Middle Peak of Mount Index, North Face. This is the climb Dan McNerthy and I did the last weekend in December 1978. We agree with many locals that the “real climbing” on many Cascade Peaks is during the cold dry spells of winter. We climbed up the...

Ruby Wall, Don’t Take Your Love To Town, Previously Unreported. Don’t Take Your Love To Town (IV 5.10, 1,200') is the most direct route to the top of the Ruby Wall. It climbs between the Rowell Arête and Wide Sargasso Sea. Charles Byrne and I made...

Pemthang Karpo, Lantrang Himal. Previously unreported in this Journal was the ascent of Pemthang Karpo (22,447 feet) on October 22, 1964. Hiroaki Tamura was accompanied by his two Sherpas to the foot of the final ridge. The Japanese climber contin...

New Hampshire, Mt. Moosilauke—On February 27, four climbers, Thomas O’Donnell (25), George Young (22), William Young (20), and John Benjamin (22), students at Dartmouth College, began to climb Mt. Moosilauke at 2:30 p.m. There happened to be a Dar...