Patagonia: Images of a Wild Land. David Neilson. Emerald, Australia: Snowgum Press, 1999. Color and black-and-white photos. 96 pages. $37.50.Australian photographer David Neilson’s Patagonia: Images of a Wild Land is a large-format book containing...

FALL ON ROCK - MISJUDGED PENDULUMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Sept. 18, Toni Alegre (42) and Jorge Lantero (43) started climbing the Nose of El Capitan (31 pitches, Grade VI). They led on double ropes (one red and one green) and moved...

EDMUND GIFFORD OLIVER1881–1939In E. G. Oliver the Club loses a member who possessed one of our most distinguished records. He had climbed, as I recall it, in every major group in the Alps and had done practically all the principal summits, most of...

Rock-climbing in SkyeElizabeth KnowltonWHEN I think about climbing again, in that far-off world after the war, the Coolins of Skye are among the mountains I am most eager to revisist. But Skye after the war will be changed from the place where I u...

Yosemite Valley Speed (as of November, 1996)El CapitanMr Midwest (D. Bengston/S. Gerberding/Al Swanson. April, 1996): 21:00*West Face (H. Florine/G. Murphy. October, 1996): 2:31*Mirage (C. Anker/S. Gerberding/S. Stowe. June, 1996): 20:02*Aquarian ...

AVALANCHE IN A BOWL—Yukon, St. Elias Mountains, The Weisshorn. After having climbed Mt. Hubbard and Mt. Kennedy, the Polish Mountain Expedition Alaska 1974 set out to climb the virgin peak, the Weisshorn, and nearby peaks for one of which they pla...

Julien Dusserre, Jérôme Para, and I established base camp at 4,600m on the Choktoi Glacier. On August 25, for acclimatization, we climbed a possible new route on the west face of HAR Pinnacle (5,490m), leaving base camp at 7 a.m. and returning a...

Alum KuhA climbing appointment with the Islamic Republic of Iranby Kath Pyke, United KingdomIt’s strange how things turn out. I had never really considered Iran to be my top choice of climbing destination, but September, 1998, found myself and thr...

ARTHUR BRADFORD JOHNSON1906-1984Arthur B. Johnson died October 27, 1984, following a short hospitalization with pneumonia. His passing ended a career of over 50 years of volunteer service to climbing and conservation in Southern California.Art cam...

Kamet (7,756m), new route via the northwest ridge. An eight-member Indian Navy expedition, employing Sherpas and High Altitude Porters, climbed both Kamet and neighboring Abi Gamin in the pre-monsoon period. We reached the road head at Ghamsali on...

Central Tower of PaineAlan KearneyTHE WIND is steadily increasing as my watery eyes behold an incredible scene. To the southeast enormous ice-age lakes glitter in the morning sun as the somber browns and greens of the Pampa stretch far to the Atla...

Tirich Mir. A small French expedition led by Pierre Berlandi is said to have reached 7000 meters on Tirich Mir. Details are lacking.

Further Firsts in Cashmere Crags. Data supplied by Fred Beckey complement the article by Ralph Widrig in this issue: Dragon Tooth (nr. The Mole), 22 May 1948: Ralph Widrig, Fred Beckey. Five pitons for aid to climb overhanging wall; then up high-a...

PHILIP P. UPTON 1919-1984In 1964, as a fledgling glaciology student from Ohio State University, I spent my first North American summer in the St. Elias Mountains in the Yukon. The OSU contingent was part of a larger group participating in the Arct...

Muztagh Tower, southeast ridge (French Route), attempt; possible first ascents of surrounding peaks. Our expedition began when I developed an obsession with the unclimbed and rarely seen northeast side of 7,284m Muztagh Tower. The team comprised I...

Latok III Attempt. After losing ten days to lost luggage, Phil Powers and I attempted the unclimbed west face of Latok III (6950 meters, 22,802 feet). On July 30 and again on July 31, we climbed the 500-meter-high snow gully on the left side of th...

AVALANCHEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, South TetonOn February 22 at 1120, Wray Landon (31) was caught in an avalanche and carried to his death while skiing near the summit of the South Teton. Landon was skiing with partners Nathan Brown (32)...

Haji Brakk, attempt on west face. From June 28 to July 17 the small Polish expedition of Jerzy Stefanski and I climbed in the Charakusa Valley. We acclimatized with a night at 5,000m and an ascent of Sulo Peak (ca 5,950m) by its southwest couloir,...

Kullu Eiger, second ascent, new route, west face to south face. In the autumn Oscar Pérez and I went to the Kullu Eiger, because our agent in India showed us a picture of the north face and an article written by the Scottish expedition that reache...

American Rock: Region, Rock and Culture in American Climbing. Don Mellor. Woodstock, Vermont: The Countryman Press, 2001.303 pages. $28.Don Mellor lays it out straight in his introduction to American Rock: “This is a book about American rock climb...