CORNICE COLLAPSEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount PattersonOn July 24, 1985, two men were climbing Bluebird Glacier on Mount Patterson. About 1900 hours, they were two pitches above the bergschrund on the final ice pitch that leads to the summit rid...
Kun. Franz Bayerschmidt, Andreas Loferer, Sepp Madl, Jürgen Mecke, Othmar Urscheler, Christian Auer and Laurent Fautsch got to the top of Kun on August 12 and 15.Günter Hauser, Deutscher Alpenverein
Ninjeri, Chango Glacier, Spiti. The Chango Glacier lies at the northeastern end of the Kinnaur District of Himachal Pradesh on the Indo-Tibetan border. The glacier is surrounded by snowy peaks and Chamonix-type aiguilles, which had been viewed fro...
Rainbows. In late June, Russell McLean and I established a new route on the western wall of the Ribbon Falls amphitheatre. We began this very steep, predominantly direct-aid route about 200 feet in from the amphitheater’s outer edge, precisely at ...
Knud Rasmussen Land, first ascents. A team of young British climbers (average age 25) completed 16 ascents of previously unclimbed peaks in the West Knud Rasmussen Land, ca 40km northeast of the Watkins Mountains. From June 13 to July 22 Richard F...
Istor-o-Nal North. The Salzburg section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖVA) was composed of Kurt Lapuch, leader, Manfred Oberegger and Max Friedwagner. They first reconnoitered the upper Lopar valley, east of Istor-o-Nal group, looking for a route o...
Tilitso Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition from Moravia, Czechoslovakia was led by Jirí Bobák and I was the climbing leader. The other climbers were Dr. Raimund Mikal, Petr Gríbek, Leoš Horka, Zdenek Krácmar, Ludvík Palecek and Dalibor Trpík. We w...
Jogin II. An expedition led by Amulya Sen finally succeeded in making the first ascent of Jogin II (20,208 feet) after previous unsuccessful attempts. They established Base Camp on the Kedar Glacier on September 30. On October 11 from Camp II at 1...
Cerro Torre. On February 17, Brazilian Makoto Ishibe and I reached the summit of Cerro Torre via the Maestri route. He is the first Brazilian to make the ascent. We left Base Camp on February 16 and climbed five pitches above the standard snow-cav...
A New Climbing Club in Ecuador. In August, 1972 a group of expatriate residents in Ecuador organized an English-speaking climbing club in Quito, the International Andean Mountaineers. The club meets every Wednesday evening at the Club Wildcatter P...
New Altitudes in the Chaltén (Fitz Roy) Area. The maps of the Instituto Geográfico Militar Argentino which were published last year now allow a more exact determination of altitudes in this region. An Argentine publisher, Zaguier and Urruty, has c...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. A small Japanese expedition led by Tamio Hitachi failed to complete the line of the Japanese Couloir route on Gasherbrum I, followed by the previous Catalan group. Their attempt ended at 7400 meters in mid Septe...
Bharte Khunte Attempt. An Indian team led by Romesh Bhattacharjee attempted Bharte Kunta (6578 meters, 21,580 feet) from the Gangotri Glacier. They reached a high point of 6450 meters.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
Alpine Ski Tour. By Robin Fedden. London: Putnam, 1956. 93 pages, ills.; map. Price 30 s.Anyone contemplating a ski traverse of the Haute Route would certainly find much of interest and practical value in this glorified guidebook to one of the fin...
Gemmigela I (Twin I) Ascent and Tragedy. A Japanese expedition of eight was led by Kenshiro Otaki. On October 29, Shigeru Yokokawa and Sherpas Pasang Tensing, Dawang and Pasang completed the first ascent of the peak (7350 meters, 24,144 feet), but...
Ellesmere Island, Ski Tour and Various Ascents. Flying from Resolute on the last day of June, Californians Les and Bev Wilson (leaders), Sergio Aragon, Gary Bard, Jane Koski, Ellen Lapham, Jeff Tarmy, and myself, joined by Alex Jolies of Switzerla...
Huandoy Sur, Desmaison Route, Second Ascent. We went to Peru between June and August, 1997, to climb Huandoy Sur’s south face. At the start there were four of us on the project: Gerome Blanc-Gras, David Jonglez, Daniel Dulac and me. After 20 days ...
In May 2002 Americans Peter Ackroyd and Jim Frush made the first ascent of Gaugiri, an often snowless but isolated 6,110m rock pyramid on the Tibet border. The Nepalese Ministry of Tourism places Gaugiri at 84° 11' 16" E, 29° 02' 45" N. This agree...
Preliminary High Latitude CenterStudy Report, Mount McKinley (Denali)Rau, D., M.D., Hackett, P., M.D., Mills, W., MD., Walberg, D., M.S., Quimby, J., B.S.**Rau, D., Assistant Professor, University of Alaska, Anchorage Center for High Latitude Heal...
2010: The birth of a new AAC. As we continued to grow membership and deliver on our mission, we also devoted extraordinary effort to the foundations of our new Five-year Strategic Plan. Indeed, “Double Duty” is the phrase that best defines fiscal ...