In mid-August, Jimmy Martinello, Jay Sinnes, and I flew northwest out of Squamish for the head of Bute Inlet. Once there we transferred for a quick bump to the head of Galleon Creek, below the 6,000' west buttress of Mt Bute. The next mornin...
ROB SLATER 1960-1995To the determined climber, there are main events that lead one toward the greatest peaks. Beyond the tragic news of Rob Slater’s death on K2 lies a story of how this great adventure climber came to be.I met Rob in 1976 on a NOL...
World Atlas of Mountaineering, edited by Wilfrid Noyce and Ian McMorrin. The MacMillan Company, 1970, copyright 1969 by Thomas Nelson & Sons, Ltd., London. 224 pages, 262 half-tones, 25 color plates, 54 maps. Price $14.95.The World Atlas of Mo...
French Rock-Climbs, by Pete Livesey. Leicester, England: Cordee, 1980. 77 pages, maps, diagrams. Price £3.95.For the rock climber who has done everything in the U.S., this may be the book of the year. Tired of Yosemite? Burned off with El Dorado o...
Kichatna Spire, East Buttress. On June 9, Koreans Yu Hak-Jae, Shin Dong-Seok and Han Tai-Il completed a new route (VI, 5,10, A3) on the east face of Kichatna Spire. The 4500-foot high face had excellent cracks and chimneys. There was severe rockfa...
Snow Lake Area, Cornice and Tarci Peaks. Seven members of the Bergamo section of the Club Alpino Italiano spent July 19 to August 4 in a base camp (4700m) where the Biafo merges with the Sim Gang Glacier. The original project was the second ascent...
Ascent of Annapurna. Last spring the French Himalayan Expedition successfully climbed Annapurna (26,500 ft.), the highest summit yet reached and the first peak over 8000 meters ever ascended. In the original planning of the expedition it was decid...
A Month in the Coast RangeSterling B. HendricksACCOUNTS of exploration and climbing in the Coast Range of British Columbia1 have always stirred me to what I thought was the futile desire to climb there, time and distance being what they are. Oppor...
Mountains of North America. Fred Beckey. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco in association with The American Alpine Club, 1982. 256 pages, 140 color photographs, map. $35.00.Shore up your coffee tables: here comes another three-and-a-half pounds of ...
La Mascara, Ilusiones and Duncan's Dihedral; Paine Chico, West Face; Cuernos. In early January 2002 Englishmen Andy Cave and Leo Houlding did the second ascent of and free climbed the route Ilusiones on the east face of La Mascara. Ilusiones was f...
Several years ago I explored the eastern islands off the coast of Papua New Guinea, looking for steep rock formations that had yet to see humans on their summits. I found amazing spires. There I met an ornithologist who was also following his pass...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Chogolisa Southwest Face Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Mlle Brigitte Aucher, Lionel Desrivières, Philippe Dubois, Phillippe Dutilloy, Jean-Marie Salmiche, Roland Marill, Dr. Eric Ronnier and me as leader. We had planned to rea...
Kaskawulsh Group, Yukon Territory. In 1954 a number of summits forming the divide between the Kaskawulsh River and the Shakwak Valley were climbed by our party, which included Ernest Manko, Bernard Tallon, and myself. Perhaps the most notable asce...
I opened my eyes to see the wall above us glowing in frozen predawn. Cheyne and I had laid down at our cramped bivouac a few short hours before, sharing one sleeping bag as a blanket and huddling on a pile of ropes, packs, and squares of foam pad....
A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountain National Park Area, by Walter W. Fricke, Jr. Boulder: Paddock Publishing Co., 1971. 225 pages, 29 photographs, $5.50.Climbers can now sort out their wall of choice with comparative ease in Rocky Mountain Nat...
Devils Tower. Climbing every day during "Mountaineer’s Week" in July of 1956, rock climbers from 13 states, France, and Switzerland made 81 ascents of the Devils Tower in northeastern Wyoming. The climbers were invited by the Wyoming Mountaineers ...
Nevado Negro Overo, Sierra de Famatina. Antonio Berochia Nigris, Sergio Gino Job and Antonio Yacante climbed this peak from April 16 to 24, finding pre-Columbian ruins on the top (20,177 feet).Mario Fantin, Club Alpino Italiano
Patagonia: Images of a Wild Land. David Neilson. Emerald, Australia: Snowgum Press, 1999. Color and black-and-white photos. 96 pages. $37.50.Australian photographer David Neilson’s Patagonia: Images of a Wild Land is a large-format book containing...
FALL ON ROCK - MISJUDGED PENDULUMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Sept. 18, Toni Alegre (42) and Jorge Lantero (43) started climbing the Nose of El Capitan (31 pitches, Grade VI). They led on double ropes (one red and one green) and moved...