Lungma Ri Area, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. In July-August, 1997, we made a traverse of the Transhimalaya and climbed several 6000-meter peaks near Ombu Lake. Against our expectations, we found a mountain massif in this area with seve...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The D.M.C. is alive and well, still doing things quietly, but with a flair. Andy Harvard, Jim Janney, and Todd Thompson returned to the Andes this year for more spectacular climbing. In 1970 they had taken part in th...
Lhotse Shar. A Spanish Catalan expedition was led by Señorita Mercè Macià and composed of Manu Badiola, Antoni Ricart, Carles Valles, Víctor Marín, Pere Torres, Miquel Sala, Manuel Punsola and Josep Lluis Sasot. They established five camps on the ...
There are climbers, and there are climbers. The climber, Johannes, who has honed his skills doing several serious solo climbs on Blamannen, is struggling midway to the great roof on the south face of Gloppedalen. Your humble narrator—the climber—w...
Nanga Parbat, Husband-and-Wife Ascent. We two made the ascent alone. In Base Camp at 13,450 feet were our friend Dr. Claire-Lise Bouvier and Liliane’s brother Alain Bontemps. We had no high-altitude porters, no artificial oxygen, no fixed camp abo...
Aconcagua. On February 13 Californians Bill Feldman, Brian Gregory, Dennis Hennek, Barbara Lilley, Thomas Limp, Norma Viault and Gail Wilts climbed Aconcagua by the normal route.
STRANDED – UNABLE TO FREE RAPPEL ROPE, WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA Wyoming, Devil's TowerOn the evening of May 23 rd, the park received a call from two stranded climbers (ages unknown) who were on the southwest face of the tower, asking for help. Aaron T...
Lysenfjord, Kierag, La Vida es Bella. Spaniards Edu Marin and Toti Vales, the former reputed to be one of the strongest rock climbers in Spain, climbed a new route on the l,000m-high southwest face of Kierag. After climbing the first 12 pitches of...
Baspa Valley. J. M. T. Gibson again took a group of schoolboys into the central Himalaya in May and June 1956. They explored the Shaone Gad, a tributary of the Baspa, that flows into it just above Raksham. They made the first ascent of a 17,600-fo...
Kronsprins Frederik Bjerge and Forel, East Greenland. On June 9, Louise Malmgren, Mårten Källström, Nils Mörck, Björn Wolgast, Peter Ask and I as leader arrived by commercial airline at Kulusuk in East Greenland. We were picked up by the chartered...
Mikhail Mikhailov, Alexander Ruchkin, and I began climbing Kizil Asker (usually spelled Kyzyl Asker) on September 5 and finished our two-day descent from the summit on September 14. We climbed in alpine style and mostly free, though we used aid on...
Mount McKinley, Snowboard Descents. In June, I was on Denali to climb and snowboard. Joining me were Wade McKoy, a photojournalist, and Rob Haggard, who was shooting video. We set out for the summit on a windy June 18 in the midst of unstable weat...
Shakhaur Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Massimo Ragana, Elena Guabello, Andrea Sampaoli, Mario Berto, Ernesto Silvoni, Pietro Badan, Dr. Francesco Zaccaria, Ezio Sinigaglia and me as leader. We traveled for two days by minibus from Rawalpi...
New Mexico, Organ Mountains, Needles Area—In September 1956 Walter Casey (21) was apparently climbing alone. He does not remember how the accident occurred. He was attempting a slope which was between 45 and 60 degrees and his height above the gro...
DIABETES, INEXPERIENCE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Jon Kushner (20) was a member of the Cleveland Bicentennial Mount McKinley Expedition climbing the West Buttress Route. Jon was a diabetic and needed two types of insulin. Somewhere around April 24, Jon...
Latok Attempt. Jeff Lowe and Frenchwoman Catherine Destivelle spent a month and a half attempting to climb the north face of Latok. After suffering from miserable weather and dangerous snow conditions, they were trapped high on the wall for six da...
Around Mount Foraker on Skis. Alan and Shari Kearney, Malcolm Ulrich and I completed a circumnavigation of Mount Foraker on crosscountry skis. Starting April 5 from the landing area on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, we travelled over ...
OVERDUE, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, DARKNESS Alberta, Murchison FallsThree ice climbers set out to climb Murchison Falls (180m, V, WI4) at 1000, March 27, and were at the base of the first pitch at noon. One of the climbers was ill and returne...
Koa Rong II, rare ascent, west ridge. A 12-member team from West Bengal led by Govinda Mondal and employing high-altitude Sherpa support established base camp, on August 21, at 5,100m on the banks of Panchi Nala. After placing two high camps, Sanj...
Pisang Tragedy, Annapurna Himal. Nepal’s second-worst climbing disaster occurred on Pisang (6091 meters, 19,904 feet), a trekking peak. On November 13, nine Germans including one woman, a Swiss woman and a Nepalese died in an avalanche. There were...