Squamish Chief, Zodiac Wall. On the shadowed northern sections of the Chief, one great wall dominates; for 1400 vertical feet Zodiac Wall is the sheerest and most difficult of the Chief’s many faces. The few possible route lines seem to blank out ...
Pico Bonnpland, Northeast Face and Ascents in Southern Venezuela. Although the northeast wall of Pico Bonnpland (4882 meters, 16,017 feet) is only 1000 feet high, it offers difficulties of the 4th and 5th grade. Dora Ocanto and I made the climb by...
Mount Owen, Winter Ascent. On March 20 Peter Lev, David Lowe and George Lowe made a fast winter ascent of Mount Owen, travelling from the Beaver Creek area to the summit and back to Beaver Creek in one day.George Lowe
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The 1961 climbing season started in February and March with ice climbing and ski traverses in the White Mountains. Spring brought the usual rock climbing in New Hampshire, Vermont, and New York at such areas as White...
Free Korea, North Face, New Route. The north face of Svobodnaya Korea (Free Korea Peak, 4740m) holds ice and mixed routes of more than a kilometer in length. Under the leadership of Michail Michailov, our team of four (including Andrey Puchinin, A...
Cordillera Raura. The Peruvians Terencio Jiménez and Máximo Luna, of the Club Andinista Huarancolca, of Churín, and I, made an ascent of Nevado Yanco (16,437 feet) on July 28. We approached the peak via Raura mine and the lake of Niño Perdido, and...
Cleaning and Maintaining Climbing Base Camps in South America. In South America there are many beautiful climbing areas that are utilized by a large number of climbers. One feature that all these areas have in common is a lack of facilities for hu...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn September 22, 1985, I (Allen Sanderson [22]), was leading a moderate 5.8 crack on Dogleg. I had made good progress placing protection every two to three meters. About 12 meters into the climb...
Nanga Parbat South Summit, East Buttress. The east buttress, which rises from the upper Bazhin Glacier, had long attracted my attention since I had first reconnoitered the Rupal Face with Toni Kinshofer in 1963. We got to Base Camp on the left mor...
Oregon: Mount Hood. Just before dawn on 29 October 1949, Donald Welk, a 20-year-old Lewis and Clark College student, was killed in a 3000-foot sliding fall. His sister Alice (17) and another climbing companion, Robert Buscho (24), a Portland firem...
In December 2009 and early January 2010, Alessandro Baù and I opened Fiducia al Sentiero (500m, 10 pitches, 7b+ [5.12c; 7a obligatory]) on Tatewari’s south wall. The route is a mix of bolts and trad: six pitches trad, with the rest having bolts...
On June 4, 1987, Charles Sassara (?) and Dave McGivern (?) were climbing up the icefall just to the north of Mount Johnson which is located in the Ruth Gorge. The pair was doing an alpine ascent from their base camp.About 500 meters above the glac...
Pumori Ascent and Tragedy. Dan Fox, Rich Pierce, Richard Wilson, Kevin Murray, John Taylor and I wanted to make the winter ascent of the south ridge of Pumori. Andy Randall was Base Camp manager. We lost Taylor and Murray to illnesses before reach...
Huntington, West Face, Count Zero Route. The ascent of a difficult new route on the west face of Mount Huntington by Clay Wadman and Bruce Miller is described in a full article earlier in this Journal.
FALL INTO BERGSCHRUND, FROSTBITE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn the morning of June 16th, climbers woke to clear skies and calm winds at 17,200-foot high camp on the West Buttress. At 0800 as many a three private parties and two g...
Yale Mountaineering Club. The summer of 1967 was a very active one for the YMC with members climbing in areas from the Arctic to Europe. Close to home, Cannon Mountain received a great deal of attention. A second ascent there of the YMC Dike (IV, ...
Gangapurna. Our expedition was made up of two women, Nam Nan-Hee and Jeoung Young-Hee, both of whom went to the summit, and six men, Kim Ki-Chul, leader, Uhm Gae-Sung, Shim Gun-Shik, Nam Young-Hyun, Min Kyeong-Young and me. We climbed the east rid...
Noshaq, Southwest Face. Our 11-member group wanted to make a ladies ascent of Noshaq. We were Janusz Kurczab, leader, Janucz Onysz- kiewicz, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Jan Holnicki-Szulc, Jan Lewicki, Andrzej Lapinski, Andrzej Marczak, Andrzej Sikorski, Kr...
Cordon Granito, overview and various ascents. Cordon Granito is part of the Río Cipreses National Reserve, located in Chiles VI Region, about 100km south of Santiago and just north of the better-known Torres del Brujo Range. Before we visited the ...
Southwest Ridge of Disappointment Peak, July 9, 1952. This spectacular ridge rises 1500 feet from Garnet Canyon. Being “purists,” Bob Merriam and Dick Emerson stayed right on the ridge and found the climbing excellent.