Right Twin, Paca-Lolo Dreams. From October 15-October 20, Brad Bond, Bryan Smith and I climbed a new route, Paca-Lolo Dreams (V 5.9 A3-, seven pitches) about 350 feet right of Peyote Dreams. The climb begins in a 5.9 hand crack that had been climb...
Pronghorn, East Face. Certainly among the outstanding faces in the Range are Pronghorn’s east and southeast faces. The latter, which rises in an almost straight swoop from a rockbound lake to the summit, is quite vertical. Kor and Beckstead went u...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PRORLEMS, FATIGUENew York, Mohonk Preserve ShawangunksFourteen incidents were reported in 1994, of which eight resulted in fractures or dislocations. There were two fatalities. One occurred when a man (47) slipped...
Great BritainMr. Henry M. Stimson, U. S. Secretary of War, has been elected an Honorary Member of the Alpine Club (London), similar honor having previously been conferred upon him by the Amercian Alpine Club. Mr. Stimson and Col. Strutt crossed th...
Eaglehead (west), East Face. Believing that the standard route of the West Eaglehead (next to Black Pyramid) actually ascends the northeast ridge, Doug Bond and I climbed a new route up the east face in mid May, following a flake system to the sum...
Aiguille Extra, South Face, Previously Unreported. Peter Noebels and I climbed the South Face (IV 5.10c, 1,400') of Aiguille Extra in July, 1993. This route is a beautiful climb with excellent crack climbing and clean rock. The climb begins on a r...
Mount Everest. Rumors exist of a Chinese expedition to Mount Everest in May. No further news has come, leaving one to wonder if the group failed or if it ever went.
FALL ON ROCK—RAPPEL ANCHOR SLING NOT TIED, DISTRACTION Colorado, Aspen, Die HardOn October 12, Jake McNelly (23) set up a rappel on a short sport climbing route at a popular cliff called Die Hard. McNelly had walked around to the top of the cliff ...
Mendenhall Towers. During August Jan Ebeltoft, Dick Wildberger and I made a first ascent on the north wall of the Mendenhall Towers over a three-day period. We climbed a steep ridge up the fifth tower with two bivouacs. Although the setting is spe...
Massachusetts, Provin Mountain—On November 11, Joseph Maruici (12) and two friends, members of a boy scout camporee, were climbing and hiking over Provin Mountain and Maruici apparently lost his footing near the edge of the cliffs on the west side...
(4) Forbes-Lyell GroupMt. Forbes, 11,902 ft. First ascent of north ridge, July 12. E. Cromwell, P. Kauf mann. From bivouac on left bank of Mons glacier. Ascended north glacier to the saddle at foot of ridge, which was found to be steep and heavily...
AVALANCHE, FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount WoolleyOn November 13 at 1000, a party of three (ages: 25, 26, 26) set out to climb the Japanese Couloir of Mount Woolley on a clear morning with light winds. They ...
Condoriri, North Face Direct, 1977. The Frenchmen, D. Chapuis, Christian Jacquier and A. Malatrait did this new route in January of 1977.
Barnaj II, South Peak. An eight-man Japanese expedition led by Nobuyoshi Kubo had permission to climb Barnaj I. After getting to Base Camp at 13,125 feet in the Barnaji Nala on May 22, they gave up the idea of climbing Barnaj I because of three da...
Needles of the Black Hills. The Iowa Mountaineers 1961 Summer Camp in the Black Hills represents the first outing of a major mountaineering club in this area. Forty-four members set up camp at the Forest Service campground at Horsethief Lake. From...
Parinacota and Cerro El Palomo. Richard Waetjen climbed Parina- cota (20,768 feet) on November 3, 1977 with three Chileans. The peak lies near the Bolivian frontier in northeastern Chile. On February 22, 1979 he climbed Cerro El Palomo (15,912 fee...
Mt. Hunter, Mini-Moonflower. In May two new routes were established on Mt. Hunter’s north buttress, which has become known as the Mini-Moonflower. This spur peak is actually a facet of the northeast ridge, and previous ascensionists (1999 AAJ, p. ...
A note by Dr. Adolf Diemberger. Much of this information is as yet unconfirmed. A detailed account will be published in the summer of 1969 in the Österreichische Alpenzeitung.
Tirich-North and Ghul-Lasht-Zom. The Austrians Kurt Diemberger, his wife Maria Antonia, Herwig Handler, and Fritz Lindner left Chitral on August 2, ascended the Chitral valley and crossed the Zani Pass to Shagrom. They went up the Tirich Glacier t...
Nanda Devi Attempt. Nanda Devi (25,645 feet) was attempted by an expedition sponsored by the Gujarat Sports Council and led by Nandlal Purohit. Bad weather allowed little advance beyond Camp III. (Apparently they were heading for the south ridge o...