Baspa Valley. J. M. T. Gibson again took a group of schoolboys into the central Himalaya in May and June 1956. They explored the Shaone Gad, a tributary of the Baspa, that flows into it just above Raksham. They made the first ascent of a 17,600-fo...
Kronsprins Frederik Bjerge and Forel, East Greenland. On June 9, Louise Malmgren, Mårten Källström, Nils Mörck, Björn Wolgast, Peter Ask and I as leader arrived by commercial airline at Kulusuk in East Greenland. We were picked up by the chartered...
Mikhail Mikhailov, Alexander Ruchkin, and I began climbing Kizil Asker (usually spelled Kyzyl Asker) on September 5 and finished our two-day descent from the summit on September 14. We climbed in alpine style and mostly free, though we used aid on...
Mount McKinley, Snowboard Descents. In June, I was on Denali to climb and snowboard. Joining me were Wade McKoy, a photojournalist, and Rob Haggard, who was shooting video. We set out for the summit on a windy June 18 in the midst of unstable weat...
Shakhaur Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Massimo Ragana, Elena Guabello, Andrea Sampaoli, Mario Berto, Ernesto Silvoni, Pietro Badan, Dr. Francesco Zaccaria, Ezio Sinigaglia and me as leader. We traveled for two days by minibus from Rawalpi...
New Mexico, Organ Mountains, Needles Area—In September 1956 Walter Casey (21) was apparently climbing alone. He does not remember how the accident occurred. He was attempting a slope which was between 45 and 60 degrees and his height above the gro...
DIABETES, INEXPERIENCE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Jon Kushner (20) was a member of the Cleveland Bicentennial Mount McKinley Expedition climbing the West Buttress Route. Jon was a diabetic and needed two types of insulin. Somewhere around April 24, Jon...
Latok Attempt. Jeff Lowe and Frenchwoman Catherine Destivelle spent a month and a half attempting to climb the north face of Latok. After suffering from miserable weather and dangerous snow conditions, they were trapped high on the wall for six da...
Around Mount Foraker on Skis. Alan and Shari Kearney, Malcolm Ulrich and I completed a circumnavigation of Mount Foraker on crosscountry skis. Starting April 5 from the landing area on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, we travelled over ...
OVERDUE, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, DARKNESS Alberta, Murchison FallsThree ice climbers set out to climb Murchison Falls (180m, V, WI4) at 1000, March 27, and were at the base of the first pitch at noon. One of the climbers was ill and returne...
Koa Rong II, rare ascent, west ridge. A 12-member team from West Bengal led by Govinda Mondal and employing high-altitude Sherpa support established base camp, on August 21, at 5,100m on the banks of Panchi Nala. After placing two high camps, Sanj...
Pisang Tragedy, Annapurna Himal. Nepal’s second-worst climbing disaster occurred on Pisang (6091 meters, 19,904 feet), a trekking peak. On November 13, nine Germans including one woman, a Swiss woman and a Nepalese died in an avalanche. There were...
Yalungkang Attempt. Both Cherie Bremerkamp and I were aware of the many advantages of climbing an 8000-meter peak with two people in alpine style. During the summer of 1980 we received permission to climb the west summit of Kanchenjunga, Yalungkan...
The Rocky Mountains, by Wallace W. Atwood. 8vo., 324 pages, with 32 photographic illustrations and numerous drawings and maps. New York: The Vanguard Press, 1945. Price $3.75.This is the third of the American Mountain Series, its predecessors havi...
Mount Everest, Tenth Ascent by an Individual. I started my career as a mountaineer about 15 years ago, spending most of the season holding an ice ax and rope, crawling on the snow and making way for climbers to get to the summits of peaks. In 1980...
Pigeon Spire, East Face, Bugaboos. Tom Thomas, Dave Knox and I made a new climb in 12 hours on August 26 which is sure to be climbed free in the near future. The route followed the southern (left) portion of the east face of Pigeon Spire (V, 5.10,...
CB 12, 1980. All members of a two-woman, four-man Japanese expedition from Osaka, led by Yoshitoru Hirotani, made the third ascent of CB 12 (6250 meters, 20,506 feet) on August 13, 1980. Base Camp was at the snout of the Dakka Glacier at 13,950 fe...
The Cascade Wall, Subiendo el Arcoiris. Though about the size and depth of Yosemite, the immense and expansive area of Basaseachic Waterfall National Park hosts almost no routes. El Gigante, the major wall of the area, is up to 1000 meters high an...
Chobutse Tragedy. On October 10 Austrians Ernst Gritzner, leader, his brother Karl, Karl Pfeifer and Udo Ertl climbed from Camp I at 16,650 feet to establish Camp II at 19,200 feet. The Gritzner brothers descended to Base Camp. When Manfred Ehreng...
Everest Southwest Face Winter Attempt. South Koreans led by Park Young- Bae tried to climb the Bonington route on the southwest face of Everest. The first winter attempt on this face was defeated by exhaustion of the climbers, their food and their...