Mount Michelson, Brooks Range. Tom Elliott and I climbed Mount Michelson (8855 feet) and Tugak Peak (approx. 8600 feet) on August 3 and 4, 1974, respectively. We reached the Michelson area during the second week of a three-week hike which began at...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONENew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge(Donald Estep [26] dictated this report regarding his accident on August 5, 1986.)I had intended to do an ascender-protected (using a hanging rope...
Dolomiti Occidentali, by Silvio Saglio. 269 pages, with 82 drawings, 28 photographs, and 5 maps. Milan: Touring Club Italiano, 1949. Price, $3.50.These two guidebooks are models of their kind, each dealing with a limited region. The first details ...
Sur les Traces de Premier de Cordée, by R. Frison-Roche. 15 pages of text and 10 pages of commentaries on the photographs, with 59 photographs in black and white and 22 in color by Georges Tairraz. Paris and Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1952.Another magn...
Huascarán. Fourteen expeditions with 71 climbers attempted Huascarán in 1974, of which 47 reached either the south or north summit. Katra, Milne and Andrews’ second ascent of the ANZUS route of the east face is covered in Katra’s article. Italians...
Washington—Lundin Peak: A Washington Alpine Club party of about 15 members, led by William Danielson (29) were finishing a day of climbing practice on September 18, 1952. The final maneuver was that of rappelling. Danielson belayed each as they we...
Artesonraju. There were two Slovene groups that climbed on Artesonraju this season. On June 1, Andrej Kecman and Dusan Kosir climbed much of a new route on the southwest face. They ascended mostly snow except for 150 meters through séracs on the l...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTCalifornia, Mount ConnessOn October 7 at 1530, Deputy Randy Hysell, the SAR Coordinator for the Mono County Sheriff s Office, called me, requesting the park’s assistance with a rescue. His information was second-...
On June 7 at 0836, an NPS mountaineering patrol enroute to the high camps encountered a 58 year-old male climber at approximately 7,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier experiencing significant chest pain and labored breathing. The patient reported ...
Satopanth Attempt and Near Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Michel Chamot, Denis Favre, Guy Bartschi, Jean-Pierre Susini, Patrick Gavard, Henri Gay-Balmaz, Gabriel Dubuis, Philippe and Elizabeth Beguin, Christine Sherwood and me as leader. ...
Condoriri, Wila Lloje, Jiskha Pata, Warawarani and Other Neighboring Peaks, Cordillera Real. In the first part of August a group composed of Andrea Facchetti, Melchiorre and Giovanni Foresti and me from Bergamo with Missionary Fathers Angelo Gelmi...
Mount Stuart, Northeast Face. After an overnight stay at Ingalls Lake, two and one-half miles from the North Fork of the Teanaway River road, in August Don Anderson, Dick Hebble, Dave Mahre, and Gene Prater made a rapid trip across Stuart Pass, Go...
K2. This remarkable climb made by Pierre Beghin and Christophe Profit, which began on the Pakistani side and continued up the northwest ridge and north face in China, is described in a complete article in this Journal.
Mount Rainier, Central Mowich Face. An ascent of the central part of this broad and steep face was first made July 23 and 24 by Dick Pargeter, Gene Prater, Jim Wickwire and me. This new route differed from the June 1957 route by Beckey, Gordon, Ho...
“Kohanha” (Kohe Qala Ust). Jerzy Wala suggests as a better name “Kohalha” (Camel Humps) for Wala Peak 421, previously called Kohe Qala Ust. The east and west peaks resemble the humps of a camel; moreover the Qala Ust valley does not head up onto ...
Nanda Devi East. A team from the Indian Border Security Force, led by S.C. Negi, approached via the Milam valley and Longstaff Col. On October 5, S.D. Thomas and six others reached the summit.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. During 1987, Section members were involved in the resolution of several access disputes. In both cases, climbing was permitted to continue. In crags on top of Mount Tamalpais, a traditional learning area in a spectac...
Trinity Peak, northwest ridge, attempt; Chogolisa, northwest face of southwest ridge, attempt. Two days after leaving Hushe village on July 16, we established our base camp at a pleasant site called Xhuspang (4,680m) on the northwest side of the E...
Mount Temple, North Face, Central Pillar. On July 18 and 19 Mike Eastburn and I did a new variant on the north face of Mount Temple. Starting at three P.M. on the north-ridge route, we climbed the first 1500 feet on the ridge on its crest to the o...
Consumnes Gorge. In February Ron Vardanega and I put up three new routes on the dome across the river from the popular bouldering area: 1). Grandma Buttons. Go over the overhang at the bottom of the central crack system. Traverse above the arch on...