Everest Attempt. The first Greek Himalayan expedition had as members Kostas Kanidis, Kostas Passaris, Nikos Louridis and me as leader and Bulgarian Dinio Georgiev-Tomov. We got to Base Camp at 5200 meters on July 16 and acclimatized for ten days. ...
Mount Huntington, South Ridge Attempt. A Japanese group attempted to climb the south ridge of Mount Huntington from its base. After several weeks they gave up, having reached the top of the second tower.
Maxson Dome, South Face. In October Burt Miller, Mark Meng, and I made the first ascent of the south face. This dome is quite spectacular when viewed from the roadhead at Courtwright Reservoir, and it was surprising that this 9547-foot dome had no...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington—On July 19 Paul Zanet (24) and Judy March (17) attempted to climb Mt. Washington from the base station of the cog railway. They were clothed in light summer clothing. Apparently they started up the Jewell trail late i...
INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FROSTBITE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Antoine Klingendrath (22) and his partner, members of the Societa Alpina Delle Giulie, were on the West Buttress during difficult conditions —deep snow and very bad weather. They left the 14,00...
Yanapaccha, Chopicalqui, Pisco. Our expedition consisted of Tom Cosgrove, Bill Hunt, Ed Lane, Tom MacNicholas, my wife Ruth and myself as leader. We were accompanied by the Peruvian porters Román Paredes Caballero and Ricardo Jara Vega. On June 30...
About 25 kilometers northeast of Gongga Shan is a group of peaks called the Lamo-she peaks by Imhof in his 1930 survey. Lamo-she (“Goddess Peak”) is the highest in the area at 6070 meters (19,915 feet). In September and October, Eloise Thompson, C...
Snow White, Alaska Range. On March 15 John Boyd, Hans Nielson and I left the Richardson Highway to ski up the Eel Glacier (also known as the Fels Glacier). By the following afternoon, with excellent snow conditions and good but cold weather, we sk...
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaOn July 5, Kananaskis Emergency Services were notified by D. S. of a climbing accident on the Calgary Route of Mount Yamnuska. They responded by heli-slinging several rescuers to the base of the ...
Mana Parbat II Ascent. The Mana Parbat group of peaks (four in all, all above 6700 meters) lies on the Kalindi Glacier, which is part of the Gangotri Glacier. The Mana Parbat Glacier drains toward the north and is not suitable for approach. A thre...
North Sixshooter Peak. This tower, about 300 feet high, stands at the summit of a talus cone about 20 miles northeast of Monticello. On April 4, Rick Horn, Jack Turner, and I got halfway to the summit before we were defeated by a sandstorm. On Apr...
United States: Activities of the ClubsA.A.C.: Wind River Camp, 1951. California members of the A.A.C. have long wanted to become acquainted with members fromother parts of the country. This desire has been shared, one feels sure, by members elsewh...
Mount Humphreys, Northeast Face. In May Joe Faint and I climbed the 1600-foot face in superb alpine conditions. Our route on this 13,986-foot mountain begins near the center of the face and ends forty feet to the left of the summit. Entries in the...
Huascarán Norte. Denis Conte and Fréderic Labaeye did the 1973 French route on the northeast face of Huascarán Norte from June 3 to 6. They found it easier than the first-ascent party had. From June 15 to 17 this same pair did the 1974 Italian rou...
Dave Hesleden and I flew in by helicopter to the Tiedemann Glacier on August 3. The weather was unsettled when we arrived, so we kicked off with a two-day ascent of the Southeast Chimneys route on Mount Waddington. We then turned our attention to ...
Kulu Pumori, Punjab. Gwynn Stephenson and Harold Mellor of J.P.O.’F. Lynam’s Bari Shigri expedition of 1961 attempted this lovely 21,500-foot peak. They reached 19,000 feet on the formidable northwest ridge but were forced by illness to retire. Th...
Mount Adams, Lava Ridge. On September 21 John Holland and I ascended the Lava Ridge, which is the cleaver separating the Lava Glacier headwall and the north lobe of the Lyman Glacier. The climb was straightforward, and conditions were excellent fo...
Huascarán, Southeast Ridge Attempt. Our group consisted of Hubert Stampfer, Horst Kahl, Kurt Kirchner and me. After acclimatization climbs on Yanapactsa Noroeste and Pisco Oeste on June 3 and 6, we set off up the Quebradas Ulta and Mátara to Base ...
Mountaineering Summary and Statistics, 1999. This year, even with the unusual weather conditions, there were 46 climbing expeditions comprised of 176 people that accrued some 3,005 person-days within the Icefields of Kluane. Overall, this was one ...
EDWARD PIERREPONT BECKWITH1877-1966Edward Beckwith, who joined the Club in 1914, died last July of a heart attack while driving his car alone. After graduating in 1901 from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, as research chemist and enginee...