Victoria by the South Face. During our stay at Lake O’Hara we also made the first 1955 ascent of Victoria, and that by a new route up the south face. We cut diagonally up and across the moraine at the foot of the valley between Huber and Victoria ...
Mount Moran, The Blackfin. The ridge immediately east of the now classic south ridge of Mount Moran begins with a tower of dark rock, which has been named the Blackfin. This tower appears about 1000 feet above the first grassy ledge of the south r...
Cordillera Vilcanota. A four-man German expedition, led by Günter Hauser, spent this summer climbing in the Cordilleras’ Blanca and Vilcanota, of Peru. The results of their efforts were extremely rewarding, giving them a total of thirteen first as...
Rimo IV and Migpa, Ascents and Tragedy. An Indo-French Expedition went to the East Karakoram in July and August. Expedition members were (Indians) Harish Kapadia (leader), Huzefa Electricwala, Kaivan Mistry, Lt. Commander Satyabrata Dam, Raj Joshi...
In 1960, Christian Bonington, a budding officer in the British Army, had the persistence and good fortune necessary to land a berth on the British Services expedition to Annapurna II. From the summit ridges it was possible for Chris to look to t...
Kotur glacier, Pik Judith-Brian, south ridge; Nomad Domes, various ascents; Son Kul Canyon, new rock climbing area. The International School of Mountaineering (ISM) organized its regular expedition to the Tien Shan. It proved a successful trip, de...
Kara-Su Valley, Pik 4810 m, various new routes. In July 2002, our group of 11 Czechs who drink and climb everything, went to the Karavshin, where we split into four climbing teams. Three teams decided to climb the 1,200m northwest face of Pik 4,81...
1951--19871988GeographicalDistrictNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta225664977219British Columbia212834597217Yukon Territory292563000Ontario21642306Quebec15443000East Arctic6218102Wes...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Northern Monashee Mountains, 1952. This summer, Sterling B. Hendrick, Donald Hubbard, and I spent three weeks climbing and exploring in the northern end of the Monashee Mountains of British Columbia.We chartered a plane to fly supplies and equipme...
Khan Tengri, mulitiple deaths. Sometimes referred to as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, 6,995m Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan claimed the lives of no less than 12 climbers last summer. Its most formidable aspect is an almost 2,000m...
The Mountains of New Zealand, by Rodney Hewitt and Mavis Davidson. 128 pages, with 136 photographs and 2 maps. Wellington, New Zealand: A. H. & A. W. Reed, 1954. Price, 18s 6d.Unfortunately, the American mountaineer has had too little contact ...
An Ascent in the Seven Sisters RangeNeal M. CarterTHE Seven Sisters Range is a lone chain of seven connected summits and one separated peak lying between longitudes 128° 10' and 128° 14' W. in latitude 54° 58' N., visible across the Skeena River a...
Mount Everest, by Toni Hagen, G. O. Dyhrenfurth, Christoph von FürerHaimendorf and Erwin Schneider. Zürich: Orell Füssli, 1959. 234 pages; 31 photographs, 25 figures and a relief map, scale 1:25,000. Price 24 Swiss Francs.This book is in four part...
Ama Dablam's South RidgeClimbing and FilmingTom FrostNATURALLY WE AIMED for a perfect trip. Our aspirations included climbing a perfectly beautiful mountain by a classic route, producing a super film, and participating with the best of friends. In...
Czechoslovaks in the Cordillera HuayhuashJaromír Stejskal, CzechoslovakiaOUR SIX-MAN PARTY from Czechoslovakia visited the Cordillera Huayhuash in June. We established Base Camp on Jahuacocha.The two youngest climbers, Dušan Becík and Ján Porvazní...
Wulio-I-Sar (6,050m), first ascent. Mathieu Paley, a French professional photographer based in Hong Kong, has spent a considerable amount of time in the Karakoram over the last three to four years working for NGOs. He and I are passionate about Br...
New Climbs in the Wind River RangeFred BeckeyIncessant storms that lashed the Canadian Rockies in early August created symptoms easily diagnosed as "rock climbing fever”; the obvious first-aid was to leave for a distant alpine range where the rock...
The North Face of RakaposhiDavid M. CheesmondDAY 1: We walk up to the site of our old Base Camp at 12,000 feet. There are just five of us; the others have weighed job and other commitments and found it is impossible to stay any longer to climb thi...
Kamet. Kamet (7756 meters, 25,447 feet) was climbed by an Indian Army Armored Corps team led by Captain S.P. Malik. The summit was reached on October 5 by N.S. Raval, Dhama, S. Chand and Captain M.C. Jaykrishna.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Jo...