Broad Peak. Richard Sale. Translations from German text by Michaela Gigerl and John Hirst. Ross on Wye (UK):Carreg Ltd. 2004. 208 pages. £22.50. $45.00.Broad Peak was short-listed for the Banff Prize for Mountain Literature in 2005; one can only s...

Mount Niflheim, Monashee Range. Mount Niflheim is 1.3 miles west of Mount Thor on the Thor-Odin Creek divide. To our knowledge, the summit had been reached only once, by a traverse from Thor. Gary Speer, Keith Hertel and I flew to the basin west o...

The Mountains and Glaciers of Prince William Sound, AlaskaWm. Osgood Field, Jr.AT the northern apex of the Gulf of Alaska where the coast of the North American continent swings around from a northwest to a southwesterly direction is a large protec...

CB 13. Our expedition consisted of Miss Hiroko Okazaki, leader, Miss Michiko Izumida, Miss Gachiko Higashi and me. We entered the CB 13 branch glacier from the South Dakka Glacier. We made Base Camp on the tongue of the South Dakka Glacier at 15,4...

In August, Dave Sharratt, Pat Goodman, and I completed a free ascent of the northeast face of Mt. Hooker. The line generally followed Third Eye (VI 5.10 A4, Middendorf-Quinlan, 1993) in the lower half, then the upper corner systems of the Bois...

FALLING ROCK, ANCHOR FAILURE, ILLNESSWyoming, TetonsAt 0230 on July 18, 1982, Ron Johnson (33) and Jeff Averkamp (22) left the Lower Saddle to climb the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton. Snow conditions on the Valhalla Traverse caused them to ...

Gaurishankar Attempt. A nine-man Japanese expedition led by Masaaki Tomita attempted to repeat the American 1979 route on the southwest face of Gaurishankar (7134 meters, 23,906 feet). Base Camp at 12,800 feet was much lower than planned and was d...

Starting April 13 and finishing May 9, Louise Jarry, Terry Winkler, and I made an unsupported crossing of Bylot Island, 237km, with ascents in the Byam Martin Mountains of Sirmilik National Park. The original plan had been to begin at the northwes...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDCalifornia, Temple Crag, Venusian Blind ArêteLinnea Erickson (age 22) had told a friend that she planned to solo climb the Venusian Blind Arête route (IV, 5.7) on Temple Crag. On Friday, October 24 Linnea le...

North Palisade, “The White Ship.” After climbing the Putterman Couloir, Steve Porcella and I ascended a route up the center of the northernmost cliff on North Palisade’s west side. It starts in the center of the face, just left of a small black wa...

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 3 August William Phillips (31), Del Lang- bauer, Boyd Everett, Jim Underwood, and Clarence Serfoss were descending the Cassin Ridge which they had successfully ascended. They had reached 15,500 feet without event. At this ...

Hatun Ulloc, Karma de los Condores Direct (to summit). In the Ishinca Valley in late July, Brady Robinson and I free-climbed the excellent Karma de los Condores (IV 5.11+, Crill-Gallagher, 2004) and extended the route to the summit of Hatun Ulloc ...

STRANDED, WEATHER, FATIGUE California, Yosemite ValleyClint Cummins (29) had 13 years’ climbing experience in various mountain ranges, including ice climbing in the northeast and three El Capitan climbs in 1985. About 0600 on May 3, 1986, Cummins ...

Cordilleras Real and Quimsa Cruz, 1990. Neil Howell and I arrived at Mina La Argentina on the eastern side of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz in the third week of June, 1990. Despite bad weather and intense cold, we managed to make the first ascent of ...

Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 15 June Gary Fredrickson (27), George T. Dockery (37), Peter T. Sandstedt (21), Carl Moore (34), and Glen Fredrickson (20), were climbing the Curtis Ridge. The first three wereon one rope and the other two on another. T...

MOST trips to the Fairweather Range have been to the southern part of the range. In fact, the only previous approach to the range from the north had been a trip I had organized in 1974 in which we had landed at a lake at 85 feet at the foot of the...

EXHAUSTION, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,PARTY SEPARATED, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 18, 1988, a nine member Genet Expeditions climbing team departed the 5200 meter high camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley and began...

FALL ON ROCK–BELAY FAILURE, NO STOPPER KNOT, MISSED CLUES, INATTENTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley National Park, Church BowlOn October 12, Adam (31), Jason (57) and his son Colby (20) were climbing one-pitch routes at the Church Bowl ...

Victoria by the South Face. During our stay at Lake O’Hara we also made the first 1955 ascent of Victoria, and that by a new route up the south face. We cut diagonally up and across the moraine at the foot of the valley between Huber and Victoria ...

Mount Moran, The Blackfin. The ridge immediately east of the now classic south ridge of Mount Moran begins with a tower of dark rock, which has been named the Blackfin. This tower appears about 1000 feet above the first grassy ledge of the south r...