Mt. Hunter, Deprivation. Jeff Hollenbaugh and I would miss the Shaft, but after watching other Moonflower hopefuls unload their massive haulbags onto the Kahiltna, we guessed Deprivation might better suit our style. We wanted to climb the north bu...
FALL ON ICE, ICE SCREWS PULLED OUT—SOFT ICE, FATIGUEWashington, Mount Rainier, Nisqually GlacierMount Rainier communications received a report of a fallen climber on the Nisqually Glacier from a cell phone call on September 6. The reporting party,...
Escape to Switzerland, by G. R. de Beer. 8vo., 159 pages. London and New York: Penguin Books, 1945. Ninepence.This book, written in 1943 and produced while the author was serving in Germany with the Grenadier Guards, continues his historical studi...
Mount Everest, Attempted Ski Descent. A six-member Slovenian expedition under the leadership of Viki Groselj attempted an ascent of Everest via the Messner route with the goal of skiing from the summit. Davo Karnicar was the designated skier. The ...
California, Yosemite National Park, Washington Column (1). At about 7:30 A.M. 29 June, E. Walton Kirk and Mickey McKinney were a little over 300 feet above the talus on Washington Column. It was their intention to climb to lunch ledge and then eit...
Trinity Spire, Purcell Range, 1986. Sybil Goman, Reed Tindall and I climbed the east buttress of Trinity Spire (5.9) in August 1986. It was mostly cracks and some mossy rock. It was hard to protect. It has a lovely setting in St. Mary Provincial P...
Koa Rong III, 1980. A ten-man British Army expedition, led by Lieutenant Colonel Richard Hardie, made the first ascent of this mountain in 1980.
Kungmiut Area, New Routes. Sabine Krol and Eduard Birnbacher visited the area south of the small village of Kungmiut in March. There are a lot of mountainous rocky island south of Kungmiut; our goal was to climb new routes on the rock peaks of the...
Numbur, Winter Ascent. Seven Japanese, led by Kensuke Kikuchi, climbed Numbur by its southwest ridge. On December 11 Naoki Yamada, Tomio Ma- shimo and Ang Tshering Sherpa reached the summit (6957 meters, 22,824 feet), followed the next day by Tami...
Everest South Col Winter Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Nam Sang- Tae attempted Everest by the South Col route. They were defeated by winter winds and cold. On December 21 Deputy Leader Kim Jong-Ho, Park Dong- Seok and Ang Rita Sherpa, who ha...
Loenpo Gang. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Cho Suk-Phil, Dr. Kwon Hyeon, Hong Woon-Ki, Lee Jeong-Hoon, Kim Soo-Hyeon and me as leader. We climbed Loenpo Gang by a new route, the west face and southwest ridge, and made the third ascent of the pea...
A Portrait of Hannibal. On the May day of 1943 when Tunis and Bizerte fell (both places being near the site of Carthage), the editor chanced to purchase a page of Hartmann Schedel’s Nuremberg Chronicle, a famous picture book published in 1943 and ...
Mount Michelson, Brooks Range. Tom Elliott and I climbed Mount Michelson (8855 feet) and Tugak Peak (approx. 8600 feet) on August 3 and 4, 1974, respectively. We reached the Michelson area during the second week of a three-week hike which began at...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONENew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge(Donald Estep [26] dictated this report regarding his accident on August 5, 1986.)I had intended to do an ascender-protected (using a hanging rope...
Dolomiti Occidentali, by Silvio Saglio. 269 pages, with 82 drawings, 28 photographs, and 5 maps. Milan: Touring Club Italiano, 1949. Price, $3.50.These two guidebooks are models of their kind, each dealing with a limited region. The first details ...
Sur les Traces de Premier de Cordée, by R. Frison-Roche. 15 pages of text and 10 pages of commentaries on the photographs, with 59 photographs in black and white and 22 in color by Georges Tairraz. Paris and Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1952.Another magn...
Huascarán. Fourteen expeditions with 71 climbers attempted Huascarán in 1974, of which 47 reached either the south or north summit. Katra, Milne and Andrews’ second ascent of the ANZUS route of the east face is covered in Katra’s article. Italians...
Washington—Lundin Peak: A Washington Alpine Club party of about 15 members, led by William Danielson (29) were finishing a day of climbing practice on September 18, 1952. The final maneuver was that of rappelling. Danielson belayed each as they we...
Artesonraju. There were two Slovene groups that climbed on Artesonraju this season. On June 1, Andrej Kecman and Dusan Kosir climbed much of a new route on the southwest face. They ascended mostly snow except for 150 meters through séracs on the l...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTCalifornia, Mount ConnessOn October 7 at 1530, Deputy Randy Hysell, the SAR Coordinator for the Mono County Sheriff s Office, called me, requesting the park’s assistance with a rescue. His information was second-...