Trollveggen, French Route, first free ascent. In a remarkably fast two-day ascent, August 7-8, Sindre and Ole Johan Saether made the first free ascent of the French Route on Troll Wall. Since it was first sieged from July 22 to August 10,1967, by ...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. A Swiss expedition climbed the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. They established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III, and IV at 13,125, 16,400, 20,000, 22,950 and 24,600 feet on May 2, 5, 13, June 1 and 2 respectively. On June 3 lea...
Mercedario, Cordillera de la Ramada. An eight-man expedition of the Club Andino de Chile, Santiago, entered into Argentina by way of Las Ojotas pass (13,501 feet) and placed a base camp at the foot of the west ridge of Cerro Mercedario, which conn...
In late May, a rock climber was rescued after falling about 40 feet. The 20-year-old man was taken by helicopter to University Hospital in Madison after he was stabilized by first-responders from Baraboo.Authorities say the man and his girlfriend ...
New guide to Lofoten climbing. Ed Webster’s classic guide Climbing in the Magic Islands was reprinted last year. However, the Nord Norsk Klatre Skole and RockFax are collaborating to produce a new rock-climbing guide to the Lofoten Islands, includ...
Deo Tibba, Lahul. In June 1955 the German, Rudolf Rott, made the second ascent of the lower (19,687 feet) of Deo Tibba’s two summits. He also climbed Malana Peak. In August and September 1956 the Frenchman André Guillemot and Sherpa Nima Tensing w...
Tuno Fjord, East Greenland. Morag Martin (f), Steve Grant, Bill Powell and I were landed on July 18 at Tuno Fjord, about three hours by boat north of Kulusuk. We ferried loads for four days up onto the main glacier that eventually feeds Tuno Fjord...
Pik Box (4,242m), central buttress of east face, new route. Pik Box is popular for climbing. There are two classic routes: 4A on the northern wall (Aytbaeva, 1956), and 5B “The Balloon” (Mikhaylov, 1997) on the left side of the northern wall. In 1...
Mount McKinley, Glisse Descents. In May and June, two mountaineers from Slovenia, skier Dr. Iztok Tomazin and snowboarder Marko Car, accompanied by Ms. Urska Poljansek, were busy on the west side of Mount McKinley. Although the weather and the sno...
Gamubar Zom Attempt, Hindu Raj. We attempted to climb the 6518-meter (21,385-foot) peak from the Chhelish Glacier by its south ridge in July. We were Katsutoshi Ikebe, Taizo Fukada, Naoya Yamasaki, Atsuhiko Hirota, Chiaki Inanmi, Yoshimi Shimuzu (...
New Mexico, Organ Mountains—Dingleberry Peak—The accident occurred during September 1956, at 10 A.M. when Bonard E. Topp (21), Robert E. Conner (22), and Alton H. Earle (20) were descending the south side of Dingleberry Peak after completing the f...
AVALANCHE—Alaska, Mt. Foraker. Toshio Hirakawa (29), Yoshitsugo Yamaya (23), and Kenjo Koshiishi (28) were members of a five-person Japanese party planning to climb Mount Foraker via the Northeast ridge. On August 6, four members of the party were...
Mango Brakk and Gama Sokha Lumbu. A lightweight British expedition composed of Paul Drew, Jim Hart and Dominic Leggett climbed in the mountains west of the lower Biafo Glacier. After a two-day approach from Askole, they placed Base Camp at Mango b...
Huntington, West Face, Variant. In April Dane Hough and I ascended a variant of the northwest buttress-west face route, done just days previous to us by two British climbers. (See above.) The initial 2000-foot couloir tucked in on the north side o...
FALL ON ICE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE TIE-IN AT ANCHOR Alberta, Maligne CanyonOn March 18 at 2030, a party of three climbers were top- roping a waterfall in Maligne Canyon in Jasper National Park. One of the climbers was experienced, a second was inte...
Sanakdank, probable first ascent. This peak is situated near Gushal village on the Manali-to-Leh Highway, 7km before Keylong. From Gushal a seven-member team from the Climbers Circle, Kolkata, trekked southwest for two days to establish base camp ...
Kang Guru. Led by Jean-Pierre Frachon, four Frenchmen completed the 16th ascent of Kang Guru (6981 meters, 22,904 feet). They climbed the west face to the northwest ridge. On November 4, Frachon. Roger Lecompte, Michel Leroux, Christian Reynaud, A...
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. A small and somewhat exploration-oriented Anglo-Irish expedition organized by OTT Expeditions (U.K.) visited the Nigruni/Jankho Kkota Region from late June to mid-July. This area of medium altitude peaks, which li...
When Men and Mountains Meet, by H. W. Tilman, D.S.O., M.C. 226 pages, with six maps and 54 illustrations. Cambridge University Press; New York: The Macmillan Company, 1947. $3.50.Mr. Tilman is one of the “irreconcilables” of mountaineering, appare...
Vinson Massif, Sentinel Range, 1979. In the Alpenvereins-Jahrbuch, 1980 (German Alpine Club’s Annual) on pages 162-6 is described the second ascent of the Vinson Massif (5139 meters, 16,860 feet), the highest point in Antarctica. The first ascent ...