Mount Steller, Eastern Chugatch Mountains. In 1991, our expedition, shortened by weather delays on the fly-in and awed by the complexity of the route, had diverted away from Mount Steller and we instead made the first ascent of P 8263, eleven mile...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. While the DMC sponsored no major expedition during the summer, it was nevertheless well represented by members climbing on the western circuit, mostly in Canada, Yosemite, and the Tetons. The school year saw climbing...
Himlung Himal Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Hiroyuki Baba attempted to make a winter ascent of Himlung Himal by its northwest ridge. The route turned out to be extremely difficult because of the snow conditions and on December 17, they had...
Nevado Caraz I, Dos Gringos to summit cornices. On July 13, 2006, Slovenians Rok Stubelj and Arcon Jernej climbed the south face, to the right of the West Ridge, of Nevado Caraz I (6,025m), to directly beneath the summit. In nine hours they reache...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. In addition to the usual dinner meetings, the Section’s activities were concentrated in four areas. Once again Jim Angell did an excellent job in putting out the newsletter, which keeps our members, plus many national membe...
Tirsuli I. O.P. Sharma and Sherpa Mingur climbed Tirsuli I (23,210 feet) on October 6. Sharma suffered severe frostbite. (First ascent by N. Mallik, S. Chakravorty and two Sherpas, October 9, 1966.)KAMAL K. GUHA, Himalayan Club
Cerro Pabellón, 1989. In January, 1989, Ortando Bravo, J. Madozzo, Maria Eugenia del Moral, S. Muntaner, Jorge and Cristián Schweimer, Daniel Villagra and I were active south of the Ojos del Salado. We launched a laborious attempt on a high mounta...
EXHAUSTION, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUPMENT Washington, Mount RainierOn August 22, 1987, Robert Pearson (57) hitchhiked from his home in Puyallup Paradise. Dressed in smooth-soled boots, cotton pants, wool shirt, and metal hard ha...
Cotopaxi, Sangay and Chimborazo. A group of 11 Czechs, three Poles and a Russian were active in Ecuador from June until October, 1972. Jirí Hales, Miroslav Kruta, Gabriela Zoubková and I made a new route to the east summit of Cotopaxi from the nor...
Attempt to Traverse the Southern Patagonian Icecap from North to South. Spaniard José Carlos Tamayo and Argentines Gabriel Ruiz, Marcos Couch, Alberto del Casillo and Alexander Portella attempted to make the first complete traverse of the 400-kilo...
FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Lion's Head Winter routeOn March 3, a group of mountaineers (ages unknown) were glissading Lion’s Head Winter Route when one of them lost control and fell down ap...
Nanga Parbat. Our Benelux expedition had as members Belgians Jan Vanhees, Lut Vivijs and Pascale Noel (the latter two are ladies), Luxemburger Eugène Berger and me from the Netherlands. In mid-June Vanhees, Vivijs and I traveled to the Swat valley...
Oregon—Eagle Cap, Wallowa Mountains: On August 22, 1953, Sylvia L. Carlson (28), a new member of the Inter-Mountain Alpine Club of Richland, Washington, slipped coming down a small snowfield on Eagle Cap, Wallowa Mountain, Oregon. She broke an ank...
Tower Butte. On October 23, Jason Keith and I made what we believe was the first ascent of Tower Butte. We rented a boat at Wahweap Marina near the Glen Canyon Dam on Lake Powell and went uplake to a campsite a short way up Labyrinth Canyon. We hi...
Nevado Negro Overo, Sierra de Famatina. Antonio Berochia Nigris, Sergio Gino Job and Antonio Yacante climbed this peak from April 16 to 24, finding pre-Columbian ruins on the top (20,177 feet).Mario Fantin, Club Alpino Italiano
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCKCalifornia, Joshua Tree National MonumentOf the 20 reports sent in from this location, six could be identified as actual climbing accidents. Four involved falls either on lead or seconding, and one was a fall which resulted fr...
Everest, Kangs hung Face Attempt. In the post-monsoon season, we were a small team with no support personnel or porters, although we had 43 yaks and a small group of family and friends who accompanied us to the Kharta and then the Kama valleys as ...
Adrar Ti-n-Taouafa, southwest pillar. During a three-week stay in the Algerian desert, Gerke Hoekstra, Ronald Naar, and I explored an area southwest of the small town of Arak. Besides a couple of ascents on various mountains via classic lines, Ger...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION (PULLED OUT)Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Rack of the Lake CragC.T. and R.W. were climbing a 5.9 route at the Back of the Lake on September 27,1993, when C.T. fell while leading. His last piece of prote...
Gasherbrum I Tragedy. A Spanish expedition led by Lluís Vandellós had as its other members Josep Grañó, Albert Ibáñez, Carles Requena and Genís Rodríguez. They established Base Camp on August 1 at 5000 meters. They placed Camps I and II at 6000 an...