EXPOSURE, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCED—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. The National Crampoon party of ten members was flown onto the Kahiltna Glacier on April 22, 1976 to begin a climb of the West buttress route. By Sunday, May 9, seven members of the party were ...
Latok II Attempt. A British expedition led by Edward Howard tried to climb the northwest ridge of Latok II (7145 meters, 23,442 feet). They reached Latok Col but bad weather beat back two attempts on the ridge. This ridge has unsuccessfully been t...
Koa Rong V, rare ascent, southeast ridge. A 10-member expedition from West Bengal led by Biplab Sengupta made a relatively rare ascent of Koa Rong V (6,258m), situated near the Suraj Tal and east of the Baralacha Pass. They placed base camp at 4,7...
Annapurna IV Attempts. There were two unsuccessful attempts on Annapurna IV this autumn, both on the northwest ridge. An expedition of 7 Slovenes and an Italian led by Žare Guzej reached 6800 meters on October 11. Jasna Bratanic (f) and Matevž Len...
FALLING ROCK—DISLODGED, FALL ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHINGOregon, Mount Jefferson, Milk CreekDuring the weekend of July 29-30, six teenage boys elected to climb Mount Jefferson via the Milk Creek route. Nearing the su...
Where the Mountain Casts Its Shadow: The Dark Side of Extreme Adventure. Maria Coffey. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2003. 234 pages. Hardcover. $23.95.You expect a lot from a book that garners awards at the Banff Mountain Book Festival. And Where...
Flammes de Pierre. Anne Sauvy. Diadem Books. London/USA, 1992, distribution by Trafalgar Square, North Pomfret, VT, 05053. $22.95.The name of this book of sixteen short stories—which literally means Flames of Rock—refers to the ridge of pinnacles ...
In mid-January Andy Parkin made a solo winter ascent of this peak above the Dingjung/Chhule Valley, via the previously unclimbed 850m north face. Parkin first spotted the north face, in profile, during his winter ascent of Dawa Peak (AAJ 2009). In...
Nevada, White Mountains, Boundary Peak—On May 2, Burl Parkinson (55) and Francis Foley (53) were killed in a fall near the summit of 13,145-ft. Boundary Peak. Both men were active members of the Sierra Club, and experienced climbers in the Sierra ...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Twin OwlsOn June 30, at 2:45 p.m., Diane Russell (23) fell vertically 25 to 30 feet down a rock face while lowering herself down a rope. She sustained a compression fracture of a vertebra, bruised righ...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NO BELAY, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, South Maroon PeakOn August 16, Aspen climber Hillary Trish (21) fell while descending from a successful climb of 14,156-foot South Maroon Peak. Trish fell in clear, warm we...
Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s ToothJonathan KrakauerA new route on Kichatna Spire. The winter and spring had been spent scheming and psyching up for it, but we just couldn’t seem to get decent cards. After waiting several days for flying weather, To...
Ultar Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Britons Caradoc Jones, Stephen Reid and me and American Ed Webster. Ultar (7388 meters, 24,240 feet) is less than 3.5 miles from the Karakoram Highway, but it rises 3.5 miles (17,000 feet) above the he...
PULMONARY AND CEREBRAL EDEMA, FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, EXHAUSTION, HYPOTHERMIA, PARTY SEPARATEDAlaska, Mt. McKinleyA four-man MIKI expedition from Czechoslovakia arrived at McKinley Park on May 29. They checked in with Ranger Bob Gerhard on May 30 bef...
Mt. Challenger, Poltergeist Pinnacle, East Face. On July 3 Dan Aylward and I hiked to Perfect Pass via Hannegan Pass/Easy Ridge. On the 4th we traversed around Challenger Arm and climbed a new route on the southernmost of the prominent subsummits ...
This is the thirty-sixth issue Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the seventh that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: There were fourteen deaths from mountaineering a...
CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER-LOST EQUIPMENT IN STORMBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonDuring the week of August 27, C.G. set out to attempt a solo climb of Mount Robson or Resplendent. He made it to the col between the two mou...
“Mt. Swanson,” Northwest Face. During the end of April and beginning of May, Jim Earl and I ventured to a little-explored area in the St. Elias Range referred to as the Fourth of July Cirque. This area is on the Hawkins Glacier at the base of the ...
Mount Everest, Avalanche and Tragedy. On September 21 an avalanche of snow and ice fellvery near Nuptse’s north face. The avalanche roared down the west face of Lhotse, striking a group of men headed for the South Col. It left uninjured one Japane...
James H. Kanzler, 1948–2011James H. Kanzler laced up his boots for the last time and “hiked over the pass” on April 18, 2011. Born April 22, 1948, he grew up in Montana, where he began climbing with his father and younger brother in his grade scho...