A.A.C., Oregon Section. Our annual Smith Rock trail work party took place April 4. Smith Rock has become “The” place to rock climb in Oregon and is also attracting many foreign climbers to its beautiful walls. Because of this increase in use, Smit...
Masherbrum, northeast face, attempt. In late June a strong Russian expedition under the noted leader of the Russian Big Walls Project, Alexander Odintsov, set up base camp on the Yermanendu Glacier for an attempt on the futuristic northeast face o...
Mount Fay, North Face. Laurie Skreslet and Lanny Johnson in July made a very difficult new route of nine pitches on the north face of Mount Fay. The first lead had to overcome an overhanging ice bulge, which Skreslet led without aid. Not knowing t...
Mount Russell, Startrekkin’. In July Alan Bartlett and I climbed a new route on the southwest buttress. It is located between the Direct Buttress and the Mithral Dihedral. After sharing the same start as these other two routes, we continued up a v...
West Temple, Gettin’ Western. On April 30, Andrew Nichols and I made the third ascent of Gettin’ Western on the east face of the West Temple, one of the biggest walls in Zion.In 1990, Brad Quinn and Darren Cope made the first ascent of this proud ...
Mount Bonneville, West Face. The impressive west face of Mount Bonneville may be seen in line with the main street in Pinedale. In July Layton Kor, Dave Beckstead and I walked from Boulder Ranch to Rainbow Lake, then on the first full day hiked th...
FALL ON ROCK—HANDHOLD CAME OFFNew Hampshire, Cannon Mountain, Whitney/Gilman RouteOn October 30, 1994, two students and a White Mountain School climbing instructor (37) were on the third “pipe pitch” on the Whitney/Gilman Ridge (5.7) on Cannon Mou...
Nevado de Toluca. The Aztec name is “Zinantecatl.” Despite local belief that Humboldt ascended higher Mexican peaks, his ascent of Nevado de Toluca in 1803 was the loftiest point attained by him in that country. It is the earliest recorded ascent....
Big Bear Mountain, Winter Ascent. On January 5 and 6 Jerry Crofoot, O. D. Denius and I made the first winter ascent of Big Bear Mountain, located between Three Fingers and Liberty, via the southwest rib. The climbing was mixed class 3 and 4.Don Pa...
Temple Crag, East Face of North Peak, Mediatrix, Previously Unreported. Heather Baer-Schneider and I climbed Mediatrix (IV 5.8, 2,500'), which takes a straight line up the center of the face as seen from Second Lake. Begin climbing left of 26th Of...
Gori Chen. In little known NEFA an Indian Army and civilian expedition was active under the leadership of T. Haralu, with Major J. C. Joshi second in command. They climbed c. 22,500-foot Gori Chen.Gunter Oskar Dyhrenfurth, Schweizer Alpen Club
FALLING ROCK—ROUTE OVERCROWDED, POOR POSITION Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn September 29, a climber (30) was recording the first pitch of Rewritten when a rock was knocked loose by a party higher up on the route. The rock...
Mount Vancouver, Southeast Ridge. Brian White, Brent Ash, Robert McLaren, A1 Richardson, David Timwell and I as leader climbed Vancouver’s southeast ridge from June 1 to July 1. From Base Camp at 7000 feet we made easy progress to 10,000 feet. We ...
Massachusetts, Mt. Tom—On September 17, Harvey Peltier (10), his brother Robert (12), James Bausant (11), and Gary Jones (12) climbed Mt. Tom uneventfully in the early afternoon. They had followed a special trail of their own from the Mountain Par...
Mt. Low, 10,075 ft. First ascent, July 9. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From the summit of Mt. Barlow in 1 hour and 10 minutes, following the watershed. Direct descent to the basin and return to Freshfield tongue, 5 hours, 30 minutes.
HANDHOLD CAME OFF–FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount ColinOn September 7, S.A. (35) and L.B. (26) set out to climb Mount Colin by the Southwest Face Direct route (III 5.7). The pair decided to ...
Chearoco, Southwest Spur and Ancohuma, East-Northeast Spur. An Italian expedition led by Cosimo Zappelli was composed of Franco Gugi- atti, Giuseppe Lanfranconi, Kiki Marmori, Marco Vitale, Angelo Gelmi and Giuseppe Ferrari. On June 26 they climbe...
P 20,970, Kiar Nalla, Kishtwar Himal. Our expedition made the first ascent of P 20,970, previously unclimbed and unnamed, during September and October. The mountain is the highest of several unclimbed peaks on the north side of the Kiar Nalla. We ...
Devils Tower. In May Layton Kor and I did a new route which we called the Vulture on the left portion of Devils Tower west face. The route ascends a long dihedral. The first 140-foot lead goes free to a small belay stance under an overhang. The ne...
San Pedro and Other Peaks, Northern Andes. The Federación de Andinismo de Chile held its Ninth National Convention between Sept. 16 and 23, 1978 in the high mountain area east of Calama, near the Chilean-Bolivian border. During the convention, the...