Washington, Mt. Baker (See accident report.) Hans Jorritsma placed Miss Huckell in a shallow moat between the rock and ice at an elevation of 8000 ft. He remained with her until 3:00 A.M. (12 hours), then left for help. Instead of returning by way...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUTNew York, ShawangunksA climber (25) was leading Supercrack (5.13) in May when he fell after the Friend on which he was resting pulled out. The fall resulted only in a sprained ankle. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisSometim...
Nemjung. It was reported that a nine-man French team led by Jean Paul Bouquier reached 6410 meters on the west ridge of Nemjung (7140m) via the north flank before poor weather called a halt to their expedition. (High Mountain Sports 179)
Mount Logan. This year the Arctic Institute initiated a program of high-altitude physiology as a part of its work to advance understanding of the total environment of the St. Elias Mountains. The first objective was the establishment of a research...
The Pyramid, North Rib. This rib begins in MacMillan Cirque 2500 feet below the summit of the Pyramid. It starts as a rock buttress, then changes to an elegant snow crest as it merges with the east shoulder of Degenhardt Glacier. On June 27, my br...
Alaska, Mt. Marcus Baker. On 22 June Helga Bading, John Bousman, Aaron Schnieder, and Ruth Schnieder (25) were ascending the Knik Glacier. While taking over the lead to break trail in waist deep snow Ruth stepped through a hidden bergschrund and f...
Mount McKinley, Western Rib of South Face. The Japanese ladies expedition was led by Michiko Sekita and composed of Nobue Yajima, Mitsuko Toyama, Sachiko Watanabe and Sueko Inoue. Misses Yajima, Toyama and Watanabe disappeared after leaving Camp V...
Shivling, West Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Shiro Kurau-chi, leader, Takao Kobayashi, Miss Kinuko Ihara, Yoshiyuki Inoue, Miss Hisako Adachi, Katsuji Yamasaki, Masatoshi Iwasa, Hiroshi Nishie, Miss Kazuko Minesaki, Yukitaka Inoue and me. ...
Aguja Guillaumet, North-Northwest Ridge, Free Ascent and Other Activity. Bruce Miller and I arrived at Chalten at the end of November with the intentions of trying the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy. After our first and only attempt on December 3, we d...
Mount Logan, Second Ascent of Catenary Ridge. The members of the Gifu Mountaineering Association expedition were Shigeru Itoh, leader, Keisuke Horii, Toshikatsu Tsuchida, Yumihiko Tanaka, Yoshihisa Kato, and Tsugio Suzuki. On May 21 they were flow...
FALL, EQUIPMENT FAILURE, LOAD TOO HEAVY FOR PACKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lyell GroupAbout noon on July 13, 1985, a party of 13 was hiking at 2000 meters on a mountaineering approach. From time to time they would stop and wait for stragglers. At o...
FALLING SNOW BLOCK Alaska, Denali National Park, Mount BarrilleA party of four, Dr. Jim Sprott, Niles Woods, Martina Volfova and Kneeland Taylor, flew into the Ruth Glacier on April 19 with Talkeetna Air Taxi. On the 20th the group climbed Mount D...
Other Kishtwar Expeditions. Mo Anthoine, Bill Barker, Joe Brown and Pete Minks attempted Brammah II (21,080 feet). They reached the southwest col at 18,000 feet and established camp, but bad weather and fresh snow prevented further progress. Thirt...
Gangotri I and Rudugaira. A second Indian Mountaineering Foundation Pre-Everest Expedition climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet) on October 15, 16, and 17, when eleven men and three women reached the summit. Eleven members also climbed Rud...
Aiguille Extra. In June Mike Heath and I climbed the obvious dihedral on the east face of the 1200-foot needle directly south of Third Needle in the Whitney Group. We called this needle or blade Aiguille Extra and rate it V, F8, A3. The earlier ro...
UNITED STATESISCHEMIA AND CORONARY OCCLUSIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib/CassinOn April 26, H. Dean Barkley, Jr. (47) and his partner were attempting to climb the West Rib and Cassin routes of Denali. Barkley had a history of cardiac problems....
Cervin, cime exemplaire, by Gaston Rébuffat. Paris: Librairie Hachette, 1965. 221 pages, cover and 24 plates (some double-page) in color; many illustrations, black and white, not only of the mountains, but portraits and reproductions of old and mo...
Knud Rasmussen and Liverpool Land, various ascents. In July 2002 Tim Mosedale and companions spent two weeks in Liverpool Land, then flew south to Knud Rasmussen Land. During their exploration of both areas they climbed a total of 15 peaks, of whi...
Barum Glacier. A German group under Otto Huber consisting further of Frau Ria Huber, Konrad Kirch and Frau J. Kirch was on the southern Barum Glacier and made a small ascent. This was close to the route taken by the Norwegians when they climbed Ti...
Nevado Ulta, Toy’s Band. After our climb in the Huayhuash [see below], we returned to Huaraz to learn about conditions. The guide Alfredo, of the agency Mount- climb, helped us considerably.We needed two or three days of rest to recover from a nig...