Panwali Dwar. On October 3, George Healey, Winky O’Neale and I made the third ascent of Panwali Dwar (6663 meters, 21,860 feet), which we approached from the Pindari valley to the south. The peak lies on the rim of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. We cli...
P 13,267, Clyde Spires, North Face. A1 Stone and I climbed this route following the left couloir. Follow the main couloir for several hundred feet, then traverse left to a small subsidiary couloir on the left wall of the main couloir, and follow i...
Temple of Sinawava, Soul Craft. On December 12, Karen Hilton and I completed the first ascent of Soul Craft (VI 5.11 A4+) on the steep wall left of the Monkeyfinger route. In ca.1,100 feet, only the first pitch and last 35 feet went free; the rema...
AlpsMont Aiguille. The 450th anniversary of the ascent of this striking peak of Dauphiny, near Grenoble, known in the Middle Ages as “Mons Inascensibilis,” occurred in 1942. In 1492, Charles VIII, King of France, ordered his chamberlin, Antoine de...
Middle Peak of Mount Index, North Face. This is the climb Dan McNerthy and I did the last weekend in December 1978. We agree with many locals that the “real climbing” on many Cascade Peaks is during the cold dry spells of winter. We climbed up the...
Ruby Wall, Don’t Take Your Love To Town, Previously Unreported. Don’t Take Your Love To Town (IV 5.10, 1,200') is the most direct route to the top of the Ruby Wall. It climbs between the Rowell Arête and Wide Sargasso Sea. Charles Byrne and I made...
Pemthang Karpo, Lantrang Himal. Previously unreported in this Journal was the ascent of Pemthang Karpo (22,447 feet) on October 22, 1964. Hiroaki Tamura was accompanied by his two Sherpas to the foot of the final ridge. The Japanese climber contin...
New Hampshire, Mt. Moosilauke—On February 27, four climbers, Thomas O’Donnell (25), George Young (22), William Young (20), and John Benjamin (22), students at Dartmouth College, began to climb Mt. Moosilauke at 2:30 p.m. There happened to be a Dar...
Mt. Cambrai, 10,290 ft. First ascent, July 15. D. Duncan, À. Megrew. From bivouac above Mons glacier by way of Mons snowfield, 4 hours, 20 minutes.
Huayna Potosí, 1977. Two ascents of the west face of Huayna Potosí were made by French, who apparently were unaware of the two routes put up earlier (1970 and 1974) by Americans. On April 27 and 28, 1977 Dominique Chapuis, Christian Charière and C...
Barnaj II Attempt. We attempted Barnaj II (20,800 feet), an unclimbed mountain in the Padar region of Jammu-Kashmir, close to the Ladakh border. Between August 29 and September 2 lim Curran, Geoff Smith and I moved by mule from Kishtwar to Machail...
Ojos del Salado, El Muerto, Mulas Muertas and Other Peaks, Puna de Atacama. We were Theo Dowbenka, Rudolf Friedenhuber, Austrians, Eduardo Saavedra Larraín, Chilean, Sebastian Hohenreiter, Heinrich Händel, Dr. Franz Vachenauer and I, Germans. Afte...
Mt. Hunter, east face, The Prey. It all happened rather fast. Paul Figg and I arrived in Alaska on May 13, and two days later we were on the West Fork of the Tokositna, watching Paul Roderick’s plane disappearing down-glacier. We were the second c...
Lunkho Group, Khandut Valley, Wakhan. An expedition of the Vienna Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) was led by Dr. Fritz Grimmlinger and composed of Gerhard Haberl, Christian von der Hecken, Fritz Hintermayer, Edi Koblmüller, Gernot Kolmho...
Nanda Khat Attempt. Nanda Khat (21,690 feet) was attempted by a team sponsored by Giri Vihar, Bombay and led by Professor A. R. Chandekar. As they were trying to reconnoiter to Camp II on May 31, an avalanche in the Pindari Icefall killed D. C. Ar...
Frailes Group, Altar, 1985. The two showy peaks of Fraile Central and Fraile Oriental (both c. 17,000 feet) had been climbed for the first and only time in 1974 and 1978, respectively. On December 6,26 and 30,1985, Fraile Central was ascended by p...
Named from a distance several years ago, this couloir which lies between the north ridge and the Crescent Arête of Mount Owen has a particularly evil appearance, marked by rock scars and running water when it is not filled with ice. It was first c...
Cordillera Vilcabamba. The first Australian expedition to the Andes climbed in the southern section of the Pumasillo group. The party of nine, Jack Higgs, Richard Bennett, Dot Butler, Mike Feller, Keith McNaughton, John Gamblen, John Retchford, Dr...
Mount Brooks, Northwest Ridge. From August 21 to 23, Clarice Dickess, Ian McRae, C. Michele Morseth and I climbed the northwest ridge of Mount Brooks. Starting from the Traleika Glacier, we gained the ridge via a 1700-foot couloir, thereby bypassi...
West Face of the Exum Ridge of Grand Teton, July 23, 1954. Dick Pownall and Bob Merriam began their climb some 300 feet north of the beginning of Wall Street and angled up the middle of this wall, reaching the crest of the ridge only a short dista...