Peaks near Scott Peak, Alaska Range. Eric Townsend, Doug Worth and I left Eielson Visitors Center in McKinley Park and walked southeast up Sunset Glacier to the end of the northeast arm, where icefalls blocked further progress. We made the followi...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Jasper National Park, Mount Edith CavellOn June 28, two climbers ascended the East Ridge of Mount Edith Cavell, and made the summit by 1300. They began descending the East Ridge, and were over the steep section b...
Mt. Morrison, South Ridge of South Peak, Previously Unreported. Kirk Schultz and I climbed the South Ridge (IV 5.9+, eight roped pitches in 2,000' of climbing) of South Peak of Mt. Morrison in November, 1995. Not much needs to be said about the ro...
Saser Kangri 1 Attempt and Tragedy. S.C. Nej led a 44-member Indian Border Security Force team that attempted this peak (7672 meters). They started from Delhi on July 6, approaching from the west through the Nubra valley. The summit camp was estab...
Castle Tower. The first ascent of this beautiful 400-foot high sandstone tower near Moab was made on September 15 and 16, 1961, by Layton Kor and me. The route follows a crack and chimney system in a right- angle dihedral on the southeast corner. ...
The Chisos Mountains of Texas. Probably of most interest to the mountaineer in Texas are the Chisos Mountains. The rugged volcanic range rises sharply from the desert floor in a spectacular maze of jagged peaks, deep canyons, spires and volcanic n...
Mount Clarence King, Southeast Face. This 12,909-foot mountain dominates the upper watershed of the Kings Canyon region although it is surrounded by higher peaks. On the southeast side of the beautiful horn-shaped mountain is a steep 800-foot face...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. Xavier Fargeas and I climbed the north face of Huascarán Norte alpine-style by the 1966 Paragot route: one day of approach from the Llanganuco Lakes, four-and-a-half days on the face and one day of descent on the norma...
Cambria Icefield Traverse. The Cambria Icefield lies east of Stewart, B.C., in the Boundary Ranges of the Coast Mountains. It is a large expanse of ice, punctuated by numerous peaks of 6,000 to 9,000 feet. From the south end of the Cambria Icefiel...
Ratong. This 21,911-foot peak, which lies on the Nepal-Sikkim frontier in the Kangchenjunga group, was climbed by an Indian expedition, led by Colonel B. S. Jaswal, principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute of Darjeeling. Nawang Gombu, C...
Mount Adams, East Face. On the July 4 weekend Mike Swayne and I left to explore this least known face of Mount Adams, stimulated by Dee Molenaar’s recent article in Summit magazine. Approaching via the Killen Creek trail, we crossed the North Clea...
Huascarán, the Garganta from the East. Catalans Jordi Agulló, J. Angles, Toni Bros, Joaquín Prunes, R. Biosco and Spaniard Rodolfo Pajares in September climbed a new route to the Garganta up the icefall from the east and from there continued on to...
Wrangell-St. Elias, Various Ascents. During the 1999 season only three trips other than ours (see above) resulted in ascents that were recorded in the climbers’ log in Yakutat. Apart from a glacier skills course, we were the last climbers approach...
ARTHUR CHILD TATE1877-1965Arthur Tate was born in Brooklyn, New York. He studied mechanical engineering at Cornell University and was with the A. H. Emery Company all his life, first as a partner and later as president. They designed and built dev...
Rurec, Southwest Face and Pirámide de Garcilaso, Southwest Face. Dave Wilkinson and I made two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca. On July 13 we climbed the southwest face of Rurec (18,701 feet), just south of Huantsán. The climbing was a straigh...
Prof. Giotto Dainelli made a trip of exploration to the Siachen and Rimu glaciers this last summer, crossing from the former to the latter by a new pass. (Geog. Jour., Vol. LXXVII, p. 90.)
Pingora, East Face. On July 20 Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I did a new route on this face, which should perhaps be called the east-southeast face since our route lies between the usual “southeast” face and the climb done last summer on the “east”...
Ninashanca, Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face. The Klub Wysokogórski Zakopane expedition was composed of Lech Korniszewski, leader, Maciej Pawlikowski, Zdzislaw Kiszela and Boguslaw Probulski. After acclimatizing in the Cordillera Blanca, they est...
El Capitan, Slacker's Toil. Slacker’s Toil (VI 5.9 A5b) is a four-and-a-fourth-pitch variant to Surgeon General/Lunar Eclipse. My variation climbs an A5 pitch and an A4+ pitch on a superloose feature, The Great Sword. I basically soloed the lower ...
Shisha Pangma. It was reported that five expeditions attempted Shisha Pangma this spring, all by the Standard Route. Only three men continued on to the main summit. Erhard Loretan summitted in a solo climb that began at 5:30 a.m. on April 28 from ...