El Guardián, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. On October 16 Padre Giuseppe Ferrari and I climbed El Guardián by its west ridge. Also on the expedition was Giorgio Pettigiani.Giuseppe Agnolotti, Club Alpino Italiano
Montana—Glacier National Park: Robert Dion, Bill Koch and Don Flynn started climbing Little Chief Mountain at 10 A. M. on July 29, 1952. They had not registered nor notified the rangers of their plan. The three boys proceeded up the face (it is no...
Huascarán, Anqosh (North) Face. Boštjan Ložar, Tomaž Petac and I made a new route on the Anqosh face, well to the left of the Buhler-Wood route. We climbed alpine-style 1300 vertical meters on the buttress on the left side of the face to reach the...
FALL ON SNOW, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn September 2, Lawrence Macupa (38) and David Vanderryn (32) climbed the Hotlum glacier route on Mount Shasta. The “normal” descent for the Hotlum glacier route is...
On June 6 at 2000, Park Ranger Tucker Chenoweth was descending from 19,500 feet with four volunteers when they observed solo climber Zeljko Dulic (27), of the Expedition Serbia Denali, who appeared to be suffering from an altitude-related illne...
Kedamath Dome, To the Top of the East Face. We believe that the east face of Kedarnath Dome had never before been successfully climbed. Our climbing members were Dr. Walter Kraft, Gábor Babcsân, Szabolcs Szebdrö, Janós Singer, Gabor Berecz and I a...
Condoriri, Southeast ridge. A party sent by the Federación de Andinismo de Chile tackled the southeast ridge of Condoriri (5648 meters, 18,531 feet), a shapely peak in the central district of the Cordillera Real. From Base Camp at 14,000 feet in t...
Liberty Bell Mountain, North Face Variant. On July 4, Fred Beckey and I climbed a new route on the east side of the north face of Liberty Bell Mountain. This impressive face, together with an even more impressive and very formidable east face, wil...
Saser Kangri II, West Peak. The second ascent of the west peak of Saser Kangri II (7518 meters, 24,766 feet) was made by an Indian expedition led by Heera Lohia. They climbed the west face, the first ascent having been made in 1985 by the northwes...
Takhinsha Mountains. The rugged Takhinsha Mountains, west of Haines, were explored for the first time in June. Our party consisted of David Chappelear, Gil Dewart, Robert Rickey, Dave Seidman and me as leader. We were landed at 4000 feet on the "J...
Dirgol Zom, Tirich Mir West II and III. On August 6 Beppe Re and I made Base Camp at 15,750 feet in the Tirich Mir group. In the following days we placed a tent at 19,000 feet and another at 20,500 feet on the easy Tirich Glacier. To acclimate we ...
Nanda Devi. After many years of closure to allow the Nanda Devi Sanctuary to recover its more pristine state, an Indian expedition of the Army Corps of Engineers was allowed to return in the pre-monsoon period of 1993. The team led by Lieutenant C...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. Our annual Smith Rock trail work party took place April 4. Smith Rock has become “The” place to rock climb in Oregon and is also attracting many foreign climbers to its beautiful walls. Because of this increase in use, Smit...
Masherbrum, northeast face, attempt. In late June a strong Russian expedition under the noted leader of the Russian Big Walls Project, Alexander Odintsov, set up base camp on the Yermanendu Glacier for an attempt on the futuristic northeast face o...
Mount Fay, North Face. Laurie Skreslet and Lanny Johnson in July made a very difficult new route of nine pitches on the north face of Mount Fay. The first lead had to overcome an overhanging ice bulge, which Skreslet led without aid. Not knowing t...
Mount Russell, Startrekkin’. In July Alan Bartlett and I climbed a new route on the southwest buttress. It is located between the Direct Buttress and the Mithral Dihedral. After sharing the same start as these other two routes, we continued up a v...
West Temple, Gettin’ Western. On April 30, Andrew Nichols and I made the third ascent of Gettin’ Western on the east face of the West Temple, one of the biggest walls in Zion.In 1990, Brad Quinn and Darren Cope made the first ascent of this proud ...
Mount Bonneville, West Face. The impressive west face of Mount Bonneville may be seen in line with the main street in Pinedale. In July Layton Kor, Dave Beckstead and I walked from Boulder Ranch to Rainbow Lake, then on the first full day hiked th...
FALL ON ROCK—HANDHOLD CAME OFFNew Hampshire, Cannon Mountain, Whitney/Gilman RouteOn October 30, 1994, two students and a White Mountain School climbing instructor (37) were on the third “pipe pitch” on the Whitney/Gilman Ridge (5.7) on Cannon Mou...
Nevado de Toluca. The Aztec name is “Zinantecatl.” Despite local belief that Humboldt ascended higher Mexican peaks, his ascent of Nevado de Toluca in 1803 was the loftiest point attained by him in that country. It is the earliest recorded ascent....