Vinson, summary of the 2006-7 season. There were 100 ascents of Vinson (4,892m) out of 130 attempts. This success rate of only 77% is statistically the worst on record and contrasts strongly with 2005-6, which had the most summit successes with 14...
Tawoche, Lobuje East and Pokalde, Winter Ascents. A four-man British- German expedition was led by David Etherington. Two unsuccessful attempts were made on Tawoche before it was climbed: the northeast buttress to 5500 meters on December 4 and the...
Gran Trono Blanco, South Wall, Sierra Juárez. On November 9, 10 and 11, John Vawter, Dick Savidge and I completed a new route on the south face of El Gran Trono Blanco. It consists of 11 pitches, 7 completely free and 4 mixed (these involving only...
Annapurna, South Face. Our international party was composed of Poles Mrs. Jolanta Patynoska, Mrs. Wanda Rutkiewicz. RyszardPawlowski, Bogdan Stefko, Mariusz Sprutta and me as leader, German Rüdiger Schleypen, Belgian Miss Ingrid Baeyens, Briton Jo...
Lhotse Attempt. A 16-member Polish expedition, led by Andrzej Zawada, attempted Lhotse (27,890 feet) by its northwest face from the Western Cwm of Everest. They reached 27,000 feet on Christmas Day from Camp IV which had been established at 25,600...
Makalu, Attempt by West Face and Ascent by Normal Route. Our expedition was composed of Italians Floriano Castelnuovo, Fabio Iacchini, Fabrizio Manoni, Salvatore Panzeri, Dario Spreafico and me as leader, Czech Leopold Sulovsky, Slovene Miroslav S...
FALLING ICEOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn January 21, while ascending the Southside route on Mount Hood at 10,000 feet, a large piece of falling ice hit Brooke Colvin (31) in the face, causing her to fall about 400 feet. Her climbing partner (and...
Alexandre Calame, edited by A. Schreiber-Favre. 52 pages, with 75 photo-engravings, 4 heliochromes, 8 polychromes, and lithograph-portrait of the artist. Preface by Charles Gos. Geneva, 1934.Alexandre Calame was born in Geneva in 1810. A true Roma...
Split Mountain, East Arête of South Summit. Once called Southeast Palisade, this mountain somehow escaped all of the technical climbing that has gone on in the true Palisade Group, a few miles to the north. From the east, 14,058-foot Split Mountai...
Glacier Bay and Wrangell-St. Elias National Parks and Preserve, Annual Mountaineering Report, 1995. Fifteen known expeditions with a total of 57 people made attempts of peaks in the region starting from Yakutat. Only six expeditions and 25 people ...
STRANDED, POOR COMMUNICATIONS, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHERColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Twin OwlsOn June 9, 1992, at 1000, Brandon Latham (20) and Tom Anderson (19) began an ascent of Twin Owls via the East Ridge I (5.8). At 1200 Anderson was ...
Regions of the Heart: The Triumph and Tragedy of Alison Hargreaves, by David Rose and Ed Douglas (National Geographic Press, $25), is an important biography that seeks to set the record straight about Hargreaves—her drive, her status as a professi...
Everest Attempt. The members of our expedition were Mari Abrego, Víctor Arnal, Josema Casimiro, Antonio Ubieto, Miguel Lausín, Ignacio Cinto, Teodoro Palacín, Patxi Senosiaín, José Garcés, Iñaki Arregui, José Marciano, Jesús Gómez, Julio Benedé, O...
Mount Huntington, French Route Attempt. Rom Lee, Craig Reinin- ger, Eric Simonson and I attempted the French route on Mount Huntington alpine-style. We ascended the French face from the west fork of the Ruth Glacier on June 27 after sitting in Bas...
Mount Langley, East Face of Southeast Peak. In April Will Crjenko and I climbed this route by first traversing over the ridge from Cottonwood Lakes. The climb involved a snow descent to the face, then eight leads of moderate to serious rock climbi...
New Hampshire, Joe English Hill—On August 30 Gordon Weston (29) and Harry King (30) went to Joe English Hill in New Boston, New Hampshire. This cliff is several hundred yards long with climbs from one to two hundred feet high.King and Weston roped...
PULMONARY EDEMA, EXHAUSTION—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. A group of Japanese climbers from the Saitama Alpine Club became exhausted while making a carry from 16,000 feet to 17,000 feet on the West Buttress route. Four of them bivouacked on the night of M...
Nevado Jancarurish. Fortunato Mautino and I made this ascent between August 10 and 20, 1965, having approached from Tarica through the Punta Carbón, Quebrada Racuay, Quebrada Quitaracsa, Quebrada Mayobamba and finally the Quebrada Tayapampa until ...
P 6509 Attempt, Kang Karpo Range, Northwest Yünnan. In September and October, Gary Driggs, Henry Everding, Clifford Leight, Klev Schoening, Pete Schoening and I, supported by Professor Zhou Zheng, Sun Po, Zhou Hong, Lin Conq, Sun Yu and Dr. Shi Qu...
Dr. Heinrich Dübi, best known to us for his historical writings dealing with the Alps, and in particular for researches concerned with the Paccard-Balmat ascent of Mont Blanc, is dead at the age of 94. Dübi was editor of the 5. A. C. Jahrbuch from...