Book Reviews AAJ
Picture Maker of the Old West: William H. Jackson

Picture Maker of the Old West: William H. Jackson, by Clarence S. Jackson. 303 pages, with 393 illustrations. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1947. $7.50.Anyone with an eye for pictures and a love of the great open spaces should enjoy this book...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Chilean-Argentinian Patagonia, El Tronador, Pico Internacional, Northeast Face

El Tronador, Pico Internacional, Northeast Face. On January 13 Alberto Bendinguer, Marcelo and Gabriel Aguilar, Petra Friedrich, Marcelo Pérez, Argentines, and I made the second ascent of the northeast face of the highest summit, the Pico Internac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Mt. Huntington, Golden Granite West Face, New Route

Mt. Huntington, Golden Granite West Face, New Route. Mentally noted in the summer of 1996, this route would take two tries to complete. A beautiful seam travels from the highest tongue of the glacial cirque of the Tokositna to the prominent tower ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded — Lost, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Washington, Mount Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver

STRANDED—LOST, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount Rainier, Disappointment CleaverEarly on the morning of September 1, the two-person Connell party called Mount Rainier communications by cell phone to report that they had lost the c...


Book Reviews AAJ
Michel-Gabriel Paccard under der Montblanc

Michel-Gabriel Paccard under der Montblanc, by Carl Egger. 8vo., 100 pages, with illustrations. Basel: Gaiser and Haldemann, 1943. $2.50.The author is an artist, whose books on the aiguilles of Mont Blanc and the Caucasus are well known. The prese...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest, South Col Clean-Up

Mount Everest, South Col Clean-up. A pre-monsoon cleanup effort by 15 Sherpas, headed by Sonam Gyaltsen and organized by the Nepal Mountaineering Association and the Nepalese government, carried away 1800 kilos of rubbish discarded by hundreds of ...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite National Park, Lost Arrow

California, Yosemite National Park, Lost Arrow. On 19 April Glenn Denny and John Weichard, both about 22, were caught on the 3rd pitch of the lost Arrow by a sleet and snow storm. Being lightly dressed both were greatly affected by the cold. A ret...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, South Howser Tower, Minaret, Bugaboos, Purcell Range

South Howser Tower, Minaret, Bugaboos, Purcell Range. Fabrizio Defrancesco and I arrived in the Bugaboos on July 18. We first repeated some of the routes on Bugaboo Spire and Snowpatch. We then climbed a new route on the Minaret, a prominent rock ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection — New York, Shawangunks

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksA man (50) fell three meters and broke his tibia while climbing Simple Ceilings (5.5) with no protection placed. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisThis is the same as the climbing accident on Wrist...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Koa Rong I

Koa Rong I. Our members were Mitsuru Shibata, general leader, Hitoshi Maebashi, Ikuo Nakashima, Motoyuki Kabayashi, Masaaki Sato, Syuzo Hattori, Kimikazu Ando, Miss Kimiko Hayashi, Miss Yoshiko Matsui and I as climbing leader. We climbed the south...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Eastern Torssuqatoq Spires, New Routes

Eastern Torssuqatoq Spires, New Routes. In August, John Bracey led a British group that included Ian Renshaw, Virginia Cooper, Steve Powel, Matt Goode, Vicky Barret, Charlotte Manwiring, and Alex Messenger to the cirque of peaks north of Ujarasugs...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Numbur Attempt

Numbur Attempt. Seven Spaniards led by Andrés Fernández attempted the southwest ridge of Numbur. Three reached 19,350 feet on October 16 and the next day the team decided to give up the climb. Daily snowfall meant difficult, dangerous snow conditi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Montana, Pilot Peak

Pilot Peak: This spectacular rock pinnacle near Cook City, Montana, was climbed in July, 1932, for the first time by Harry Mitchell, Robert McKenzie, and Hollis Mees.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest

Everest. Our Naomi Uemura Film Expedition had to wait until after the Indians had made their last summit bid. We set up camps and filmed, but we had to wait well below the South Col while the Indians made repeated unsuccessful attempts. Finally on...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khatang

Khatang. An expedition of 14 Swiss and a Liechtensteiner (Helmut Kindle) was led by Karl Kobler. They climbed the northeast ridge and placed 14 climbers on the summit (6782 meters, 22,250 feet). They had two high camps. The summit was reached on O...


Notes AAJ
The Climber in Fiction

The Climber in Fiction. In addition to the lists already published, our member, Mr. Goodrich, sends the following:Bates, Ralph. The Miraculous Horde (‘The 43d Division’). London, 1939.Dunn, Robert. The Youngest World. New York, 1914. Gompertz, M. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Romanzof Mountains, Brooks Range

Romanzof Mountains, Brooks Range. During three weeks of June, Geoff Radford and I climbed around the Okpilak River drainage in the eastern Brooks Range. The area is of interest as it contains the highest and most heavily glaciated peaks of the Bro...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Placed Inadequate Protection, New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge

FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION New Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn May 17,1986, Bob Michonwski (25) and Geoffrey Nichols (24) had spent a full day climbing and bouldering around Cathedral Ledge, and to end the day, they attempted...


Book Reviews AAJ
Dolomiti di Brenta

Dolomiti di Brenta, by Ettore Castiglioni. 498 pages, with 7 maps, 95 sketches, and 16 photographs. Milan: Club Alpino Italiano, 1949.


Book Reviews AAJ
Le Pays d'Aoste

Le Pays d’Aoste, by Saint-Loup. 40 pages of text, with 68 photographs. Paris and Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1952.This latest addition to the superb “Collection Belles Pages” brings us another volume of beautiful mountain pictures marvelously reproduced...