Rock ’n Road: Rock Climbing Areas in North America. Tim Toula. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1994. $30.00.Comment: This includes lists of climbing stores, guidebooks, gyms, guide services, boot repair outfits. This is either the world’s l...
Mawson Peak, Heard Island, South Indian Ocean. An Austrian expedition led by Dr. Ross Vining and William Blunt made the second ascent of Mawson Peak, the highest point (2745 meters, 9005 feet) of an active volcano called Big Ben. Heard Island is u...
Dharamsura and P 19,500. Twelve climbers from Calcutta, led by Sailendra Nath Bhattacharya, established Base Camp at 13,500 feet at Samsi. On June 24 Pulak Majumdar, Asoke Sarkar, Tara Chand and Nirat Ram climbed the difficult southeast ridge of D...
Cerro Torre, East Face, 1986. A nine-man Slovene expedition led by Stane Klemenc has completed what must be one of the most difficult climbs anywhere. Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo, Franc Knez, Pavle Kozjek, Peter Podgomik and Matjaž Fištrovec complete...
Gaurishankar Attempt. Six Poles led by Tadeusz Preysner made an unsuccessful attempt on the south face of Gaurishankar but were driven back by avalanche danger. Four climbers reached 19,700 feet on April 22.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and E...
Ascents in the Cordillera de la Totora. This big but little-known range in San Juan has many unclimbed peaks. There were some ascents in the late 1970s, including the highest peak, Cerro de la Totora (5770m). Some years ago, a Spanish team climbed...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn September 25, 1984, about 1600, Douglas Rovirra (27) was glissading Taylor Glacier with crampons on when he caught a crampon in the snow, lost contr...
Angels Wings, Attempt, and Exploration. The first person to bring the Cordillera Sarmiento to the attention of the climbing world was Jack Miller (U.S.), who flew over the range on a rare clear day in 1990, photographing the peninsula. He returned...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY–ROPE RAN OUTColorado, Boulder Canyon, AnimationOn May 24, Eric Gurvin (19) sustained injuries to his back, ankles, and wrist when he fell 20 to 30 feet when the person lowering him ran out of rope and dropped him.He ...
Cañón de la Huasteca, Cañón de San Judas, Pico José Pereyra, Peyote Brujo. Paul Vera is a local climber in Monterrey who invited José Pereyra (Venezuela) to climb in the area. Francisco Medina (Mexico) was invited to a meeting at Paul’s house, whe...
Nanga Parbat, by Ulrich Ling. 52 pages, 24 photographs, 3 maps, and 1 sketch. Munich: Bergverlag Rudolph Rother, 1953. Price, DM. 3.80.This inexpensive, small paperbound volume was brought out in early August, just a month after the actual ascent ...
From the Rajucolta Valley on July 20, Beto Pinto, Rolando Morales, and I crossed the moraine onto the glacier, navigated extensive crevasses, and camped at approximately 5,100m. The next day, carrying little, we approached the bottom of the face...
Broad Peak Attempt and Tragedy. Broad Peak was attempted by Polish women Wanda Rutkiewicz and Barbara Kozlowska and Swiss Stéphane Schaffter. They established camps at 6550 and 7200 meters. The weather was continuously bad. On August 18 Rutkiewicz...
Sikkim Himalaya. A small party under the leadership of Marco Pallis was active in this section. An attempt was made on the N. W. peak of Simvu during which the party had the terrifying experience of an earthquake at the highest camp, which opened ...
Cerro El Cóndor, addendum. On p. 302 of the AAJ 2004, El Cóndor is mentioned in the title of Alexander von Gotz’s report, but we mistakenly deleted his brief mention of their El Cóndor ascent. Von Gotz and companions climbed to the north summit (6...
Old Mount Hyndman, Northeast Face, Pioneer Mountains. On September 28 Bill March, Nobuyuki Fujita, Jerry Leitch and I made the first ascent of the northeast face of Old Mount Hyndman. From camp at the head of Wildhorse Creek, we ascended an obviou...
Trail Crest Tower, South Face, and Aiguille Extra, East Face. Trail Crest Tower is the first prominent tower south of Mount Muir. The route is just left of the southeast comer of the tower. It stays about ten feet left of this outside comer for it...
FALL ON ROCK, INSUFFICIENT PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Barrier BluffsWhile leading the route called Cadillac Jack on June 3, 1990, T.C. fell and struck a ledge. Her partner lowered her to the ground, where it was obvious she had severely i...
Shipton Spire, Inshallah. In July, Steph Davis, Kennan Harvey, and Seth Shaw established a third route on Shipton Spire (a.k.a. Hainablak Central Tower), Inshallah (VII 5.12 AO, 4,300 feet). The trio spent 14 days on the wall and managed to free a...
FALLING ROCK – PULLED OFF BY LEAD CLIMBERBritish Columbia, Bugaboos Provincial Park, Snowpatch SpireOn August 15, a climber was climbing the last pitch of Sunshine Crack (IV 5.10+) on Snowpatch Spire. The lead climber pulled off a rock about twice...