Pumori Ascent and Tragedy. Dan Fox, Rich Pierce, Richard Wilson, Kevin Murray, John Taylor and I wanted to make the winter ascent of the south ridge of Pumori. Andy Randall was Base Camp manager. We lost Taylor and Murray to illnesses before reach...
Huntington, West Face, Count Zero Route. The ascent of a difficult new route on the west face of Mount Huntington by Clay Wadman and Bruce Miller is described in a full article earlier in this Journal.
FALL INTO BERGSCHRUND, FROSTBITE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn the morning of June 16th, climbers woke to clear skies and calm winds at 17,200-foot high camp on the West Buttress. At 0800 as many a three private parties and two g...
Yale Mountaineering Club. The summer of 1967 was a very active one for the YMC with members climbing in areas from the Arctic to Europe. Close to home, Cannon Mountain received a great deal of attention. A second ascent there of the YMC Dike (IV, ...
Gangapurna. Our expedition was made up of two women, Nam Nan-Hee and Jeoung Young-Hee, both of whom went to the summit, and six men, Kim Ki-Chul, leader, Uhm Gae-Sung, Shim Gun-Shik, Nam Young-Hyun, Min Kyeong-Young and me. We climbed the east rid...
Noshaq, Southwest Face. Our 11-member group wanted to make a ladies ascent of Noshaq. We were Janusz Kurczab, leader, Janucz Onysz- kiewicz, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Jan Holnicki-Szulc, Jan Lewicki, Andrzej Lapinski, Andrzej Marczak, Andrzej Sikorski, Kr...
Cordon Granito, overview and various ascents. Cordon Granito is part of the Río Cipreses National Reserve, located in Chiles VI Region, about 100km south of Santiago and just north of the better-known Torres del Brujo Range. Before we visited the ...
Southwest Ridge of Disappointment Peak, July 9, 1952. This spectacular ridge rises 1500 feet from Garnet Canyon. Being “purists,” Bob Merriam and Dick Emerson stayed right on the ridge and found the climbing excellent.
Lungma Ri Area, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. In July-August, 1997, we made a traverse of the Transhimalaya and climbed several 6000-meter peaks near Ombu Lake. Against our expectations, we found a mountain massif in this area with seve...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The D.M.C. is alive and well, still doing things quietly, but with a flair. Andy Harvard, Jim Janney, and Todd Thompson returned to the Andes this year for more spectacular climbing. In 1970 they had taken part in th...
Lhotse Shar. A Spanish Catalan expedition was led by Señorita Mercè Macià and composed of Manu Badiola, Antoni Ricart, Carles Valles, Víctor Marín, Pere Torres, Miquel Sala, Manuel Punsola and Josep Lluis Sasot. They established five camps on the ...
There are climbers, and there are climbers. The climber, Johannes, who has honed his skills doing several serious solo climbs on Blamannen, is struggling midway to the great roof on the south face of Gloppedalen. Your humble narrator—the climber—w...
Nanga Parbat, Husband-and-Wife Ascent. We two made the ascent alone. In Base Camp at 13,450 feet were our friend Dr. Claire-Lise Bouvier and Liliane’s brother Alain Bontemps. We had no high-altitude porters, no artificial oxygen, no fixed camp abo...
Aconcagua. On February 13 Californians Bill Feldman, Brian Gregory, Dennis Hennek, Barbara Lilley, Thomas Limp, Norma Viault and Gail Wilts climbed Aconcagua by the normal route.
STRANDED – UNABLE TO FREE RAPPEL ROPE, WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA Wyoming, Devil's TowerOn the evening of May 23 rd, the park received a call from two stranded climbers (ages unknown) who were on the southwest face of the tower, asking for help. Aaron T...
Lysenfjord, Kierag, La Vida es Bella. Spaniards Edu Marin and Toti Vales, the former reputed to be one of the strongest rock climbers in Spain, climbed a new route on the l,000m-high southwest face of Kierag. After climbing the first 12 pitches of...
Baspa Valley. J. M. T. Gibson again took a group of schoolboys into the central Himalaya in May and June 1956. They explored the Shaone Gad, a tributary of the Baspa, that flows into it just above Raksham. They made the first ascent of a 17,600-fo...
Kronsprins Frederik Bjerge and Forel, East Greenland. On June 9, Louise Malmgren, Mårten Källström, Nils Mörck, Björn Wolgast, Peter Ask and I as leader arrived by commercial airline at Kulusuk in East Greenland. We were picked up by the chartered...
Mikhail Mikhailov, Alexander Ruchkin, and I began climbing Kizil Asker (usually spelled Kyzyl Asker) on September 5 and finished our two-day descent from the summit on September 14. We climbed in alpine style and mostly free, though we used aid on...
Mount McKinley, Snowboard Descents. In June, I was on Denali to climb and snowboard. Joining me were Wade McKoy, a photojournalist, and Rob Haggard, who was shooting video. We set out for the summit on a windy June 18 in the midst of unstable weat...