Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2

K2. This remarkable climb made by Pierre Beghin and Christophe Profit, which began on the Pakistani side and continued up the northwest ridge and north face in China, is described in a complete article in this Journal.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Mount Rainier, Central Mowich Mountains

Mount Rainier, Central Mowich Face. An ascent of the central part of this broad and steep face was first made July 23 and 24 by Dick Pargeter, Gene Prater, Jim Wickwire and me. This new route differed from the June 1957 route by Beckey, Gordon, Ho...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, "Kohanha" (Kohe Qala Ust)

“Kohanha” (Kohe Qala Ust). Jerzy Wala suggests as a better name “Kohalha” (Camel Humps) for Wala Peak 421, previously called Kohe Qala Ust. The east and west peaks resemble the humps of a camel; moreover the Qala Ust valley does not head up onto ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Nanda Devi East

Nanda Devi East. A team from the Indian Border Security Force, led by S.C. Negi, approached via the Milam valley and Longstaff Col. On October 5, S.D. Thomas and six others reached the summit.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. During 1987, Section members were involved in the resolution of several access disputes. In both cases, climbing was permitted to continue. In crags on top of Mount Tamalpais, a traditional learning area in a spectac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrun Range, Trinity Peak, Northwests Ridge, Attempt; Chogolisa, Northwest Face of Southwest Ridge, Attempt

Trinity Peak, northwest ridge, attempt; Chogolisa, northwest face of southwest ridge, attempt. Two days after leaving Hushe village on July 16, we established our base camp at a pleasant site called Xhuspang (4,680m) on the northwest side of the E...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Temple, North Face, Central Pillar

Mount Temple, North Face, Central Pillar. On July 18 and 19 Mike Eastburn and I did a new variant on the north face of Mount Temple. Starting at three P.M. on the north-ridge route, we climbed the first 1500 feet on the ridge on its crest to the o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Consumnes Gorge

Consumnes Gorge. In February Ron Vardanega and I put up three new routes on the dome across the river from the popular bouldering area: 1). Grandma Buttons. Go over the overhang at the bottom of the central crack system. Traverse above the arch on...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Right Twin, Paca-Lolo Dreams

Right Twin, Paca-Lolo Dreams. From October 15-October 20, Brad Bond, Bryan Smith and I climbed a new route, Paca-Lolo Dreams (V 5.9 A3-, seven pitches) about 350 feet right of Peyote Dreams. The climb begins in a 5.9 hand crack that had been climb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Pronghorn, East Face

Pronghorn, East Face. Certainly among the outstanding faces in the Range are Pronghorn’s east and southeast faces. The latter, which rises in an almost straight swoop from a rockbound lake to the summit, is quite vertical. Kor and Beckstead went u...


Accident Reports ANAM
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PROBLEMS, FATIGUE

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PRORLEMS, FATIGUENew York, Mohonk Preserve ShawangunksFourteen incidents were reported in 1994, of which eight resulted in fractures or dislocations. There were two fatalities. One occurred when a man (47) slipped...


Notes AAJ
Mr. Henry M. Stimson

Great BritainMr. Henry M. Stimson, U. S. Secretary of War, has been elected an Honorary Member of the Alpine Club (London), similar honor having previously been conferred upon him by the Amercian Alpine Club. Mr. Stimson and Col. Strutt crossed th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Eaglehead (West), East Face

Eaglehead (west), East Face. Believing that the standard route of the West Eaglehead (next to Black Pyramid) actually ascends the northeast ridge, Doug Bond and I climbed a new route up the east face in mid May, following a flake system to the sum...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Aiguille Extra, South Face, Previously Unreported

Aiguille Extra, South Face, Previously Unreported. Peter Noebels and I climbed the South Face (IV 5.10c, 1,400') of Aiguille Extra in July, 1993. This route is a beautiful climb with excellent crack climbing and clean rock. The climb begins on a r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Mount Everest

Mount Everest. Rumors exist of a Chinese expedition to Mount Everest in May. No further news has come, leaving one to wonder if the group failed or if it ever went.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Rappel Anchor Sling Not Tied, Distraction

FALL ON ROCK—RAPPEL ANCHOR SLING NOT TIED, DISTRACTION Colorado, Aspen, Die HardOn October 12, Jake McNelly (23) set up a rappel on a short sport climbing route at a popular cliff called Die Hard. McNelly had walked around to the top of the cliff ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mendenhall Towers

Mendenhall Towers. During August Jan Ebeltoft, Dick Wildberger and I made a first ascent on the north wall of the Mendenhall Towers over a three-day period. We climbed a steep ridge up the fifth tower with two bivouacs. Although the setting is spe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Massachusetts, Provin Mountain

Massachusetts, Provin Mountain—On November 11, Joseph Maruici (12) and two friends, members of a boy scout camporee, were climbing and hiking over Provin Mountain and Maruici apparently lost his footing near the edge of the cliffs on the west side...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Forbes

(4) Forbes-Lyell GroupMt. Forbes, 11,902 ft. First ascent of north ridge, July 12. E. Cromwell, P. Kauf mann. From bivouac on left bank of Mons glacier. Ascended north glacier to the saddle at foot of ridge, which was found to be steep and heavily...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Woolley

AVALANCHE, FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount WoolleyOn November 13 at 1000, a party of three (ages: 25, 26, 26) set out to climb the Japanese Couloir of Mount Woolley on a clear morning with light winds. They ...