YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CANTotal Number of Persons Involved USA-CANInjuredUSA-CANKilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 819—...
O. C. Marsh, Pioneer in Paleontology, by Charles Schuchert and Clara M. LeVene. 8 vo., 541 pages, with illustrations. NewHaven: Yale University Press, 1940. Price $5.00.Every Yale man who ever studied geology in the old Peabody Museum knows the na...
Peaks in the Southwest Pacific. In 1977 I climbed 41 peaks in 15 countries in the Pacific. After walking across New Guinea on the 94- kilometer Kokoda Trail, I headed for the highlands, where I soloed three peaks: Mount Hagen (3778 meters or 12,39...
American Alpine Club Research FundThe American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational or historical research and publication related to mountaineering, geology or geography. The trustees of t...
Mt. Burkett, South Face, solo. After waiting in town for three weeks of unsettled spring weather, Leo Smith (Paines Ford, New Zealand) and I (Petersburg, Alaska) flew via helicopter on April 23 to the Baird Glacier below the southwest face of Mt. ...
Au Royaume du Mont-Blanc, by Paul Payot. 305 pages, with 97 illustrations. Bonneville (Haute-Savoie): Imprimerie Plancher, 1950.A year ago, we reviewed the modest text written by Paul Payot to accompany the splendid photographs by G. Tairraz in Ch...
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, ColombiaWalter A. Wood, Jr.Have you ever of a winter’s evening reached up on your library shelf for your favorite atlas, settled down comfortably in a favorite chair and commenced thumbing over the pages with a v...
FALL ON ROCK-RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURECalifornia, High Sierra, Palisades RegionOn May 29, Dan Kipper (54) and Warren Buettner (65) started from Glacier Camp and ascended the Palisade Glacier to the V-Notch. Their objective was to climb the V-notch, as...
Polish, Soviet and Czech Climbs, Pamir. Polish climbers, Janusz Maczka, Tadeusz Preyzner, Jerzy Zajac and Bogdan Strzelski, climbed a new 7250-foot route from July 29 to August 2 on the east face of Ljap-Nazar, which took four bivouacs, two of the...
Beauty is a Rare ThingThe birth of a new route on the northwest face of Denali's west buttress, by Steve HouseIt was under the cover of an Alaskan midnight that Eli and I hurried across the crusty snow of the Peters Glacier to the Father and Son’s...
Iztaccihuatl, El Orgasmo del Cerdo and Oz. El Orgasmo del Cerdo is more than 700 meters high, but only 300 meters are technical, with 200 meters of scrambling and occasional 20- meter fourth-class steps. It rises from the west glacier and was open...
California, North Palisades. During the middle part of March Alan Leeds (21), Wayne Inman (20), and a third man spent several days camping and hiking in the area of Glacier Lodge. On March 20th the third man left to go skiing, and on Thursday the ...
Ama Dablam Attempt and Tragedy. Until April 8, everything was going perfectly. All six members, American Tom Dickey and Canadians Geoff Pow- ter, Peter Roxburgh, Charlie Eckenfelder, Rory McIntosh and I, were fit and well in Camp II atop the Red T...
STRANDED-ROPES STUCK IN CRACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND FOOD, FATIGUECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Fairview DomeAt 2048 on August 13, Matt Ciancio was solo climbing the regular route on Fairview Dome when he heard cries for help. C...
The Gran Sabana holds some of the world’s most majestic big walls, rising dramatically above rainforest. In February 2012 Cory Nauman, Alfredo Zubillaga, and I flew to the region to establish a new route on Upigma Tepui in the Canaima National Par...
First Ascent of Mt. Sangai, EcuadorMt. Sangai in Ecuador is an active volcano, which for many decades has borne the reputation of being one of the most violent in the world. Detached from the main chain of the Andes, it juts out into the Amazon ba...
Deep Play, A Climbers Odyssey from Llanberis to the Big Walls. Paul Pritchard. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1997. 16-page color insert. 192 pages. $22.95.Stories of a Young Climber: An Autobiography. Pat Ament. Two Lights: Boulder, 1996. 262 pages. ...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. A North and South Tirolean expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz had hoped to climb Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast-ridge route. Reinhold Messner and another then wanted to descend the northwest ridge or the north face to compl...
South Ridge of Nez Perce, July 3, 1954. Bob Merriam, Bill Buckingham, and Ed Clark made their approach from Garnet Canyon up through the col between Nez Perce and Shadow Peak. Once the ridge was reached, it was followed straight to the summit.
Summary. Cochamó’s highest number of both international and Chilean climbers visited the area this season, and the number of new routes surpassed the last few combined. The spectrum grew to include not only big walls, short multi-pitch cracks, and...