Tharkot. After an expedition of the Climbers Club from Bombay, in May had been carried down in an avalanche from a point just above their high camp on Tharkot (20,010 feet), they abandoned their attempt. Later in the year the Mountaineers Club als...
Mera Northeast Ridge. Our six-member expedition hoped to climb the north face of Mera. Base Camp was established on September 24 beside the Dig Glacier at 4580 meters. We were to climb alpine-style on whatever routes we saw fit. Briton Dave Hudson...
Nilgiri South and Annapurna Attempts. An expedition composed of five Japanese, four Slovaks and a Frenchman was led by Shunji Takegawa. They tried the east ridge from the north on Nilgiri South and the Dutch route on the north face of Annapurna. O...
North Face of Shadow Peak, July 24, 1950. On this 500-foot face some very difficult climbing was encountered by Bob and Doris Merriam and Leigh Ortenburger, one pitch requiring direct aid.
River Road (Scenic Byway 128). Dave Glouderman rope soloed the 5.9 tower high above the River Road at Mile Post 6 in December.
Pingora, East Face. On July 21 Louis Vannatta and I climbed what we believe is a new start to the east-face, left-side-cracks route on Pingora. We started in a left-facing corner, just to the left of a huge corner and roof several hundred feet to ...
Sir Sandford Area, 1946. A climbing party led by Sterling Hendricks in 1946 reopened the Sir Sandford area, using a new approach from the Columbia by way of Swan Creek, which is the second tributary to the main river on the W. side below Surprise ...
El Capitan, El Niño, Second Ascent. In the meadow, on a clear fresh October afternoon, Patrick “Patch” Hammond and I reclined in our hammocks of smoke and alcohol, eagerly scoping the east buttress of El Capitan with the Huber brothers and their b...
1951-19941995GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta3229869816532British Columbia24997542204Yukon Territory322669104Ontario28652326Quebec25554000East Arctic722000...
In September and October 2010 our Russian team hoped to complete new routes on Edgar from the Nan Nem Guon Valley to the north. The main objective for Alexander Novikov and me was the unclimbed west face. The Nan Nem Guon is rarely visited by lo...
TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-771959-7719781978USACAN.USACAN.Terrain1Rock14981535412Snow841145526Ice344122River7200Unknown10200Ascent or DescentAscent1162157629Descent99199418Unknown16112150Immediate CauseFall or slip on ...
Fairweather's South-Southwest RidgeSteven Gaskill, Colorado Mountain ClubSTARTING on June 28 Keith Echelmeyer, Steve Ruhl, Mike Ruckhaus, Mike Berman, Darrell Brown, Chip Mehring and I were flown from Juneau to Cape Fairweather. The next few days ...
Chongtar, Chinese Karakoram and Improperly-Disposed-of Garbage by Others. On September 8, three of four members of our expedition made the first ascent of Chongtar (7350 meters, 24,115 feet). Expedition members were Australians Greg Mortimer, Luke...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn September 17, 1980, a nearby resident heard calls for help coming from Cathedral Ledge. The Mountain Rescue Service was notified. When...
STRANDED – DID NOT CHECK FIXED ROPES, DEHYDRATION, FATIGUE, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lost Arrow SpireLate fall in the Sierra Nevada had been mild, so in mid-December, Art (23), Robert (28), and Eric (22), all Yosemite locals, decided to...
Deep Gorge Country (“Three Parallel Rivers”: Salween, Mekong, Yangtze), exploration. My many voyages of discovery to what I call “East of the Himalaya-Alps of Tibet” were triggered by reading the enchanting narratives of Frank Kingdon-Ward, in whi...
OTHMAR GURTNER1895-1958Mountaineers and lovers of the heights all over the world will keenly feel the loss of Othmar Gurtner. As director and editor of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research in Zurich, he was responsible for planning and publish...
Slick Rock, Scenic Traction. Slick Rock is a few miles northeast of McCall, about 100 miles north of Boise. This is a beautiful granite face, similar to the northwest face of Chief’s Head (RMNP, CO) in style and smoothness, with the same limited g...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, FALL ON SNOW, LOST EQUIPMENT, FROSTBITE, HYPOTHERMIA, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 19, 1982, Tom Redfern (31) and Barney Dennen (19) of the Redfern Expedition to the West Buttress of McKinley were flown into 2200 me...
THE Moose’s Tooth, which lies in a majestic setting near Mount McKinley, is one of Alaska’s most spectacular mountains. It is a combination of Yosemite big walls, with heavily corniced ridges. “So convoluted is the topography of the Tooth, that ...