Koa Rong III, 1980. A ten-man British Army expedition, led by Lieutenant Colonel Richard Hardie, made the first ascent of this mountain in 1980.
Kungmiut Area, New Routes. Sabine Krol and Eduard Birnbacher visited the area south of the small village of Kungmiut in March. There are a lot of mountainous rocky island south of Kungmiut; our goal was to climb new routes on the rock peaks of the...
Numbur, Winter Ascent. Seven Japanese, led by Kensuke Kikuchi, climbed Numbur by its southwest ridge. On December 11 Naoki Yamada, Tomio Ma- shimo and Ang Tshering Sherpa reached the summit (6957 meters, 22,824 feet), followed the next day by Tami...
Everest South Col Winter Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Nam Sang- Tae attempted Everest by the South Col route. They were defeated by winter winds and cold. On December 21 Deputy Leader Kim Jong-Ho, Park Dong- Seok and Ang Rita Sherpa, who ha...
Loenpo Gang. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Cho Suk-Phil, Dr. Kwon Hyeon, Hong Woon-Ki, Lee Jeong-Hoon, Kim Soo-Hyeon and me as leader. We climbed Loenpo Gang by a new route, the west face and southwest ridge, and made the third ascent of the pea...
A Portrait of Hannibal. On the May day of 1943 when Tunis and Bizerte fell (both places being near the site of Carthage), the editor chanced to purchase a page of Hartmann Schedel’s Nuremberg Chronicle, a famous picture book published in 1943 and ...
Mount Michelson, Brooks Range. Tom Elliott and I climbed Mount Michelson (8855 feet) and Tugak Peak (approx. 8600 feet) on August 3 and 4, 1974, respectively. We reached the Michelson area during the second week of a three-week hike which began at...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONENew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge(Donald Estep [26] dictated this report regarding his accident on August 5, 1986.)I had intended to do an ascender-protected (using a hanging rope...
Dolomiti Occidentali, by Silvio Saglio. 269 pages, with 82 drawings, 28 photographs, and 5 maps. Milan: Touring Club Italiano, 1949. Price, $3.50.These two guidebooks are models of their kind, each dealing with a limited region. The first details ...
Sur les Traces de Premier de Cordée, by R. Frison-Roche. 15 pages of text and 10 pages of commentaries on the photographs, with 59 photographs in black and white and 22 in color by Georges Tairraz. Paris and Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1952.Another magn...
Huascarán. Fourteen expeditions with 71 climbers attempted Huascarán in 1974, of which 47 reached either the south or north summit. Katra, Milne and Andrews’ second ascent of the ANZUS route of the east face is covered in Katra’s article. Italians...
Washington—Lundin Peak: A Washington Alpine Club party of about 15 members, led by William Danielson (29) were finishing a day of climbing practice on September 18, 1952. The final maneuver was that of rappelling. Danielson belayed each as they we...
Artesonraju. There were two Slovene groups that climbed on Artesonraju this season. On June 1, Andrej Kecman and Dusan Kosir climbed much of a new route on the southwest face. They ascended mostly snow except for 150 meters through séracs on the l...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTCalifornia, Mount ConnessOn October 7 at 1530, Deputy Randy Hysell, the SAR Coordinator for the Mono County Sheriff s Office, called me, requesting the park’s assistance with a rescue. His information was second-...
On June 7 at 0836, an NPS mountaineering patrol enroute to the high camps encountered a 58 year-old male climber at approximately 7,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier experiencing significant chest pain and labored breathing. The patient reported ...
Satopanth Attempt and Near Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Michel Chamot, Denis Favre, Guy Bartschi, Jean-Pierre Susini, Patrick Gavard, Henri Gay-Balmaz, Gabriel Dubuis, Philippe and Elizabeth Beguin, Christine Sherwood and me as leader. ...
Condoriri, Wila Lloje, Jiskha Pata, Warawarani and Other Neighboring Peaks, Cordillera Real. In the first part of August a group composed of Andrea Facchetti, Melchiorre and Giovanni Foresti and me from Bergamo with Missionary Fathers Angelo Gelmi...
Mount Stuart, Northeast Face. After an overnight stay at Ingalls Lake, two and one-half miles from the North Fork of the Teanaway River road, in August Don Anderson, Dick Hebble, Dave Mahre, and Gene Prater made a rapid trip across Stuart Pass, Go...
K2. This remarkable climb made by Pierre Beghin and Christophe Profit, which began on the Pakistani side and continued up the northwest ridge and north face in China, is described in a complete article in this Journal.
Mount Rainier, Central Mowich Face. An ascent of the central part of this broad and steep face was first made July 23 and 24 by Dick Pargeter, Gene Prater, Jim Wickwire and me. This new route differed from the June 1957 route by Beckey, Gordon, Ho...