Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2003 mountaineering season was eclipsed by the tragic crash of a McKinley Air Service flight in late May. En route to base camp, all four on board died when the plane crashed at South Hunter Pass. We...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Hotlum/Bolam RidgeLeaving their high camp in the early morning of September 23, Dave Woods and David Wicken (36) began the 40-degree climb of the Hotlum/Bolam Ridge. Woo...
Arjuna Attempt. The British Himalayan Expedition, Kishtwar: Tom Henderson, American, Peter Melling, Linda and Ron Rutland and I, made an unsuccessful attempt on unclimbed Arjuna (20,440 feet). We approached the peak along the Chenab valley through...
Moria, Thunder Ridge; other ascents. On May 28 Ilona Barash and I flew into Betties, with the Arrigetch under a heavy blanket of snow. Gates of the Arctic National Park rangers advised us that travel would be impossible without snowshoes this earl...
INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXPOSURE, WET WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 30, 1983, Charles Turner (28) and Alan Jolley (26) began calling for help from “The Block” on the Salathé Wall of El Capitan. A rescue team was flown up to the rim ...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, Mountaineering Section. Our membership was active on many fronts this year. We climbed in Canada, the Northwest, the Tetons, Colorado, the Alps, and India as well as here in the East—Cannon, Shawangunks, Linville Go...
Kanjiroba Himal, Sisne Himal, etc. Our party, consisting of John Earle, James Burnet and me, with four Sherpas under Sirdar Ang Dawa, left Nepalganj at the beginning of April to explore and map the little known groups named on the Survey of India ...
UNITED STATESFALLING SNOW BLOCK Alaska, Denali National Park, Mount BarrilleA party of four, Dr. Jim Sprott, Niles Woods, Martina Volfova and Kneeland Taylor, flew into the Ruth Glacier on April 19 with Talkeetna Air Taxi. On the 20th the group cl...
Grand Teton, Exum Route, First Winter Ascent. From February 19 to 21 David Lowe, Jock Glidden, and David Smith made the first winter ascent of this popular summer climb. Leaving Moose at seven A.M. on the 19th, we skied to the Platforms in Garnet ...
A Season on Everest The rest of the story by Elizabeth Hawley As the whole world seems to know, disaster struck climbers high on Mount Everest on May 10, and immediately the mountain, and the men and women assaulting it, were headline news aroun...
Last of the Annapurnas by M. S. Kohli. New Delhi: Publications Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, Govt. of India, 1962. 62 black and white photos, 11 color photos, several maps and sketches. Price $4.00.This is a very interesting ...
The Early Alpine Guides, by Ronald Clark. 208 pages, with 27 illustrations, four maps and index. London: Phoenix House, 1949 (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons). Price, 15/-.The biographer of Vittorio Sella, now engaged in the more formidable task...
JOHN VINCENT HOEMAN1936 - 1969The Dhaulagiri tragedy still seems to many of us unbelievable. That Vin Hoeman was one of the seven who died beneath the ice avalanche makes it only more so. All his experience and ambition, lost to the whims of a mou...
Northernmost Labrador, Mapped from the Air, by Alexander Forbes. New York: American Geographical Society, Special Publication No. 22.A narrative account of an important exploration by a Boston sportsman planned as a summer vacation and carried on ...
In mid-August, Jimmy Martinello, Jay Sinnes, and I flew northwest out of Squamish for the head of Bute Inlet. Once there we transferred for a quick bump to the head of Galleon Creek, below the 6,000' west buttress of Mt Bute. The next mornin...
ROB SLATER 1960-1995To the determined climber, there are main events that lead one toward the greatest peaks. Beyond the tragic news of Rob Slater’s death on K2 lies a story of how this great adventure climber came to be.I met Rob in 1976 on a NOL...
World Atlas of Mountaineering, edited by Wilfrid Noyce and Ian McMorrin. The MacMillan Company, 1970, copyright 1969 by Thomas Nelson & Sons, Ltd., London. 224 pages, 262 half-tones, 25 color plates, 54 maps. Price $14.95.The World Atlas of Mo...
French Rock-Climbs, by Pete Livesey. Leicester, England: Cordee, 1980. 77 pages, maps, diagrams. Price £3.95.For the rock climber who has done everything in the U.S., this may be the book of the year. Tired of Yosemite? Burned off with El Dorado o...
Kichatna Spire, East Buttress. On June 9, Koreans Yu Hak-Jae, Shin Dong-Seok and Han Tai-Il completed a new route (VI, 5,10, A3) on the east face of Kichatna Spire. The 4500-foot high face had excellent cracks and chimneys. There was severe rockfa...
Snow Lake Area, Cornice and Tarci Peaks. Seven members of the Bergamo section of the Club Alpino Italiano spent July 19 to August 4 in a base camp (4700m) where the Biafo merges with the Sim Gang Glacier. The original project was the second ascent...