Kusum Kanguru. A British expedition climbed Kusum Kanguru (6367 meters, 20,889 feet) via the east face, a new route. On October 23, Nicholas Mason, leader, John Diplock, Julian Holmes, and Sherpas Lhakpa Dorje, Dawa Nuru, Ang Jangbu and Kami Tsher...
FALLING ICE, WEATHERWashington, White Chuck MountainOn August 4, 1985, Terry Miller (43) and Robert Packer were climbing White Chuck Mountain from the northeast. While attempting to cross an exposed area around the 2100 meter level, ice from above...
Cordillera de Colangüil, Cerro de la Quebrada Seca. A group from the nearby city of San Juan was active in this mighty and relatively untrodden zone in mid-January 2002, having as a goal the highest summit, Cerro del Lavadero (6122m). They took th...
Huayanay IV, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Robin and Renee Fedden and Carl Nater of the Andean Society approached from Chillca in the Río Vilcanota valley. They entered the first prominent valley, the Huayabamba, which separates the Huayanay group from t...
Tilitso, Winter Attempt. Canadians led by Stephen Adamson failed on the northeast ridge of Tilitso, getting only to 5800 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Northwest Ridge of Buch Mountain, August 11, 1953. Leigh Ortenburger, Mary Sylvander, and Steve Jervis made the first descent of this ridge. The ascent should provide some fine climbing, especially at the three places which require rappels on desc...
Mounts Macaulay, Wood, Slaggard, and Strickland. On May 19 John Foxall, David Hobill, Kevin O’Connell and I were flown by the Trans North Turbo Air’s jet-ranger helicopter from Burwash Landing to Base Camp at 9700 feet on the arm of the Anderson G...
Cerro Paine Grande (3,050m, 2,884m GPS), first winter ascent. On August 14 María Paz Ibarra (Chile) and I summited Paine Grande, the highest peak in the Torres del Paine Group. This was the third overall and first winter ascent.With Sebastian Irar...
LIGHTNING STRIKE, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir DonaldOn August 7, 1991, a party of seven wardens were at the 3050 meter level on a training climb of the Northwest Ridge of Sir Donald, accompanied by two others who had atta...
Behali Jot North, first ascent. On June 13-15 Norifusa Akakura, Akitoshi Hayakawa, Kaori Iguchi, Shujiro Katsuno, Takao Kurumizawa, Shoji Sakamoto, and Shizuo Takegami from Japan, with three Indians, Pasang and Prakesh Bodh, and LO AK Sharma, made...
Wasatch Rock Climbs. Les Ellison and Brian Smoot. The American Alpine Club, New York, 1984. 302 pages, black and white photographs, sketch maps. $14.50.This is an excellent guidebook that has been well received among Utah climbers. Visitors will f...
San Rafael Swell. Mike Friedrichs and Anne Yeagle put up an eight-bolt sport climb, Anti-Swell (5.10b), and Friedrichs and Todd Leeds climbed a 15-bolt sport climb, Bradley Mountain Wear (5.11d), both in Buckhorn Wash. Further south, James Garrett...
Languta Barfi, Northwest Ridge. From Kabul we drove to Langar in the Wakhan in five days, arriving on July 15. We climbed the Ab-i-Sar Shakhawr to Base Camp at 13,125 feet in two days. Advanced Base (15,100 feet) was placed at the foot of Languta ...
Climbing Season in the Fitz Roy-Cerro Tone Area, 1994-95. [The time between the Patagonian season and our going to press is always so short that it is difficult to have a complete record. For that reason, we are grateful to Chis Breemer, who has j...
ROCK BROKE LOOSE, FALL ON ROCK, ICE TOOLS AND PITONS PULLED OUT Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn March 11,1993, around 1000, ranger Renny Jackson received a report of a climbing accident on the Grand Teton. According to the report...
Khan Tengri and Pik Goodmana, Tien Shan. During the summer of 1990, the second American-Lithuanian mountaineering exchange took place. At the invitation of the Lithuanian Mountaineering Federation, four Americans arrived in Vilnius on July 19. Wit...
Park’s Korean Route. At 3 p.m. on May 20, Jin Jan-chang, Kang Ki-seok, Shin Dong-min, and Park Young-seok stepped onto the summit of Everest, having completed a new route up the southwest face. This is the first new route climbed by Koreans on the...
RAPPEL FAILURE—Vermont, Washbowl Ledges. Douglas S. Parker (18) of Moscow, Vermont, fell to his death from the Washbowl Ledges near Chapel Pond on October 27.Though the cliff stood only a half mile from Route 73, rugged terrain made the evacuation...
Western Nyanchen Thanglha, Golden Dragon, White Pagoda, Yarlung Ri, previously unreported first ascents. In September 2000 Erich Gatt, Hansjoerg Pfaundler, and myself, Christian Haas, visited the Nyanchen Thanglha ca 80km north of Lhasa. Here, in ...
Warbonnet Peak. In July Dave Jenkins and I accidentally did a new route on the east face of Warbonnet Peak. Thinking we were following the Lowe-Fowler line, Black Elk, we inadvertently traversed right with a pendulum where we should have headed le...