Mazamas. The Mazamas, Portland, Oregon, mountaineering club since 1894, carry out a climbing school each spring as a public service as well as for in-service training. Surrounded by snow-and glacier-peaks as well as many rock-climbing areas that b...
Alaska, Mount Sanford. On May 12th Bjarne Holm (age 22), Jurgen Kienle (34), Earl Redman (24), and Jack Solomon (20) were flown to the 7,000-foot level of Mount Sanford’s Sheep Glacier, and that same afternoon they started up the glacier. They had...
RAPPEL SLING ANCHOR UNTIED, FALL ON ROCK Quebec, Mount CesaireOn July 2, 1992, a group of 15 from the Monteregie Youth Center in Chambly, including four group leaders, plus two instructors from the Quebec Mountaineering Federation (FQM), went out ...
Torre Norte del Paine, East Face. From February 1 to 18, François Bernard, Antoine Cayrol, Tierry Petitjean, Laurent Fabre and I opened a new route on the east face of the Torre Norte del Paine. There was no previous route on the 800-meter-high gr...
Shishapangma, West Summit, New Route. Eduard Sánchez and I left Kathmandu on October 4, headed for the Langtang Valley. Accompanied by three Sherpas, we trekked until the last town. We climbed a mountain called Naya Kanja (5800m) to acclimate. Som...
CAC Sar, first ascent; Corean Sar, first ascent to west summit; Khani Basa Sar, attempt. A four-man expedition from the Corean Alpine Club led by Yoo Hak-jae spent July 18 to August 30 in Pakistan; the other climbers were Kim Dong-kyu, Kang Tae-wo...
Tengi Ragi Tau, first ascent of newly opened peak. In the spring of 2000 I saw Tengi Ragi Tau (6943m) for the first time while we climbed Parchamo (6,279m). It strongly attracted my attention, but it was a forbidden peak according to our guide. In...
NICOLAS Jaeger said that he hoped his expedition to the Cordillera Blanca would not be “banal”. The expedition accomplished eight new routes, repeated five major routes, soloed four new routes, repeated two routes solo, made a hang-glider descen...
From August 2–19, 2009, David Lim, Mohd Rozani bin Maarof, and Grant Rawlinson, forming the “Spirit of Singapore Climbing Expedition,” traveled to an area loosely known as the Adyrtor Mountains, just north of the famous Inylchek glaciers. We drove...
Shingu Charpa (Great Tower, 5,600m, north ridge attempt. Dave Edgar and I traveled to the Nangma Valley this past summer with our eyes set on the impressive unclimbed north ridge of Shingu (Shjingu) Charpa, east of the small village of Kande. The ...
South Ridge of Mount HuntingtonJeff ThomasTHE SOUTH RIDGE OF Mount Huntington is “not so much a ridge as five separate serrated peaks, each increasingly higher.” * To climb the entire ridge was enticing, but it would be terribly difficult. There w...
SUP ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, OFF-ROUTE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot, Northwest CouloirOn July 11, Sam Russell (22) fell approximately 200 vertical feet down the Northwest Couloir of Teewinot,...
Extraterrestrial BrotherForty-six hours of magical mystery touring on McKinley’s Father and Son Wall.Kenton Cool“So there’s no moraine at all?”“Not a single stone,” replied Ian. “You just fly straight to base camp, no porters, cooks, or even L.O.s...
CHARLES MARSHALL PRATT1939-2000Ah, Chuck, Chuck, so lately here, so soon gone. How can I be writing this? You, gone? Yes, irrevocably. Your death sudden and shockingly unexpected. It seems not real. Somehow... wrong.Only a few weeks ago you had ph...
Dawa Peak (5,920m), northeast face, new route and possible first winter ascent. Fearing too many trekkers and expeditions in the Khumbu in summer, I chose winter and established myself in the comfort of the Gyoko Resort (4,800m). Opposite was the ...
The White Spider, The History of the Eiger’s North Face, by Heinrich Harrer, translated from the German by Hugh Merrick. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1959. 240 pages; 41 ills., of which two are in color. Price 30s.Although this fascinating account o...
Lost in America*Greg ChildNIGHT HAD FALLEN. Randy Leavitt and I were high on the overhanging east face of El Capitan, at the end of a new route, setting up our last hanging bivouac. Behind us lay nine days of difficult climbing and 2700 feet of gr...
Escape from Lucania: An Epic Story of Survival. David Roberts. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2002. 206 pages. $23.00.This is the full story of Bob Bates and Brad Washburn’s first ascent of the St. Elias Range giant, Mt. Lucania, in 1937, at the ...
The Mountaineers. In 1991, we saw our membership top the 12,000 mark! Our Basic and Intermediate Climbing Courses were as popular as ever. At our headquarters in Seattle, over 200 enrolled in our Basic Climbing course and 70 students graduated; 70...
FALL ON ROCK, PITON AND CHOCK FAILURE—Washington, Peak One of Klootchman Rock. David Steven fell while on the Northeast Comer, Peak One, of Klootchman Rock. He was in the top of a narrow chimney at the lower edge of a sloping bench of rock suspend...