La Huasteca still has many walls to explore, and this 500m south-facing wall of limestone, just 15 minutes from Monterrey, had two routes and an unfinished project. David Tirado (Mexico), my wife Marisol Monterrubio (Mexico), and I started with...
HAPE, CE, ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinleyDuring May and early June, members of three separate foreign climbing teams were diagnosed as having High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE).Victor Grosley and Thomas Jannik (46), Yugoslavian climbers...
Pumori Attempt. Six climbers of Korean ancestry, although two are American citizens and one a Canadian, were led by Kim Ki-Hwan. They attempted the first-ascent route on the northeast ridge. After a three-week struggle on the east face, they gave ...
P 9070. On April 20, David Barlow and I made the first ascent of P 9070, southwest of Mount Hunter. We made a glacial approach to the west of a small icefall on the north side and then an ascent to the col separating this peak from Thunder Mountai...
FALL ON ROCK, UNSAFE POSITION, FATIGUEAlaska, Skagway, Black LakeOn June 14, Karl (28) was climbing an unnamed, single-pitch sport route rated at 5.9 near Skagway. Just below the top of the route, he had clipped into the final bolt and was prepari...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. During the past year the WHM were again active in midwestern climbing. Our Sunday trips to Devils Lake and other nearby climbing areas were well attended during the spring and fall. A smaller group was also active in...
Annapurna II Attempt. An expedition of six Spanish Basques led by Jesús Bereciartua tried to climb Annapurna II up the north face and along the west ridge from Annapurna IV. They set up Camps I, II and III at 4800, 5500 and 6300 meters on March 28...
Noshaq. The Bulgarian Hindu Kush Expedition, led by Petr Kavrkov and composed of D. Petkov, K. Aleksiev, I. Vasilev, K. Dimcev, A. ZahaHriev, H. Džambazov, P. Georgiev, R. Savov, J. Stojanov, K. Petrov and D. Jirov, had a tragic fate. They were in...
Cerro Marmolejo, Senda Real and The Nook. Austrians Harald Berger and Albert Leichtfried established a wild ice route on the south face of Cerro Marmolejo (6,100m, about 20 km from Baños Morales) in the Cajón del Maipo in January 2006. Their line,...
Dhaulagiri, South Ridge. It was the goal for Jean-Noël Roche and me to climb the south ridge or spur of Dhaulagiri with no support whatsoever. The route had been climbed by a heavy Japanese expedition in 1978. A film crew of Philippe Lallet and An...
Southeast Ridge of Middle Teton, August 15, 1954. Bill Buckingham and Virgil Day, using several pitons for protection, climbed the more easterly of the two south ridges.
Nojin Kansa, Ascent. In the spring, Masakazu Okuda led a three-member Japanese expedition that made an ascent along the ridge between Togulon (ca. 6800m) and Nojin (Ningqing) Kansa (7206m), continuing to the summit of Nojin (Ningqing) Kansa via th...
Colorado Mountain Club. The club’s rapid growth continued, with an increase of 20% during the year to over 4200. The 12 local groups undertook some 1100 one-day and weekend climbing and hiking trips. Interest in winter mountaineering and camping c...
Imjatse, Southwest Face, 1989. Italian Carlo Stratta and Dawa Lama climbed a new route on the southwest face of Imjatse (Island Peak). They climbed the 4000-foot route in seven hours to reach the southwestern summit. They continued the traverse to...
Trollveggen, French Route, first free ascent. In a remarkably fast two-day ascent, August 7-8, Sindre and Ole Johan Saether made the first free ascent of the French Route on Troll Wall. Since it was first sieged from July 22 to August 10,1967, by ...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. A Swiss expedition climbed the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. They established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III, and IV at 13,125, 16,400, 20,000, 22,950 and 24,600 feet on May 2, 5, 13, June 1 and 2 respectively. On June 3 lea...
Mercedario, Cordillera de la Ramada. An eight-man expedition of the Club Andino de Chile, Santiago, entered into Argentina by way of Las Ojotas pass (13,501 feet) and placed a base camp at the foot of the west ridge of Cerro Mercedario, which conn...
In late May, a rock climber was rescued after falling about 40 feet. The 20-year-old man was taken by helicopter to University Hospital in Madison after he was stabilized by first-responders from Baraboo.Authorities say the man and his girlfriend ...
New guide to Lofoten climbing. Ed Webster’s classic guide Climbing in the Magic Islands was reprinted last year. However, the Nord Norsk Klatre Skole and RockFax are collaborating to produce a new rock-climbing guide to the Lofoten Islands, includ...
Deo Tibba, Lahul. In June 1955 the German, Rudolf Rott, made the second ascent of the lower (19,687 feet) of Deo Tibba’s two summits. He also climbed Malana Peak. In August and September 1956 the Frenchman André Guillemot and Sherpa Nima Tensing w...