Khan Tengri, mulitiple deaths. Sometimes referred to as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, 6,995m Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan claimed the lives of no less than 12 climbers last summer. Its most formidable aspect is an almost 2,000m...
The Mountains of New Zealand, by Rodney Hewitt and Mavis Davidson. 128 pages, with 136 photographs and 2 maps. Wellington, New Zealand: A. H. & A. W. Reed, 1954. Price, 18s 6d.Unfortunately, the American mountaineer has had too little contact ...
An Ascent in the Seven Sisters RangeNeal M. CarterTHE Seven Sisters Range is a lone chain of seven connected summits and one separated peak lying between longitudes 128° 10' and 128° 14' W. in latitude 54° 58' N., visible across the Skeena River a...
Mount Everest, by Toni Hagen, G. O. Dyhrenfurth, Christoph von FürerHaimendorf and Erwin Schneider. Zürich: Orell Füssli, 1959. 234 pages; 31 photographs, 25 figures and a relief map, scale 1:25,000. Price 24 Swiss Francs.This book is in four part...
Ama Dablam's South RidgeClimbing and FilmingTom FrostNATURALLY WE AIMED for a perfect trip. Our aspirations included climbing a perfectly beautiful mountain by a classic route, producing a super film, and participating with the best of friends. In...
Czechoslovaks in the Cordillera HuayhuashJaromír Stejskal, CzechoslovakiaOUR SIX-MAN PARTY from Czechoslovakia visited the Cordillera Huayhuash in June. We established Base Camp on Jahuacocha.The two youngest climbers, Dušan Becík and Ján Porvazní...
Wulio-I-Sar (6,050m), first ascent. Mathieu Paley, a French professional photographer based in Hong Kong, has spent a considerable amount of time in the Karakoram over the last three to four years working for NGOs. He and I are passionate about Br...
New Climbs in the Wind River RangeFred BeckeyIncessant storms that lashed the Canadian Rockies in early August created symptoms easily diagnosed as "rock climbing fever”; the obvious first-aid was to leave for a distant alpine range where the rock...
The North Face of RakaposhiDavid M. CheesmondDAY 1: We walk up to the site of our old Base Camp at 12,000 feet. There are just five of us; the others have weighed job and other commitments and found it is impossible to stay any longer to climb thi...
Kamet. Kamet (7756 meters, 25,447 feet) was climbed by an Indian Army Armored Corps team led by Captain S.P. Malik. The summit was reached on October 5 by N.S. Raval, Dhama, S. Chand and Captain M.C. Jaykrishna.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Jo...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT - POORLY PLACED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HATKentucky, Red River GorgeOn October 22, my group and I (Gram Parker – 40) were climbing in the Long Wall area of Red River Gorge attempting Rock Wars (5.10a, trad...
The Ascent of Mount BerthaBradford WashburnDURING the last forteen years six expeditions have attacked the western ramparts of Alaska’s Fairweather Range. Three of these were directed against Mt. Fairweather (15,318 ft.) one of the world’s highest...
Hidden Peak, Alpine-Style. After three years of trying, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler finally were granted permission to climb an 8000-meter peak alpine-style. They were allowed to attempt Hidden Peak (26,470 feet) by its northwest face. With...
Gangotri, Meru Central, east pillar attempt. Conrad Anker,Renan Ozturk, and I left Delhi on September 6 hoping to make the first ascent of the east (or northeast) pillar of Meru Central (6,310m)—the feature known as the Shark’s Fin. After several ...
Dhaulagiri. Under the leadership of Fritz Moravec, an Austrian expedition did not succeed in climbing Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet), the highest yet unascended mountain in the world. The expedition reconnoitered for the first time the northeast ridge a...
California, Mt. Shasta—On December 28, 1956 Emily Hatfield (21), Don Monks (26), Steve Brenner (22) and Gordon Brenner (19) climbed Mt. Shasta. The weather was clear. All climbing was on snow and ice. The party was fully equipped for the climb (cr...
Mountain MedicineA review of the eye at altitudeby Geoffrey C. Tabin, M.D.In 1988, on the southwest face of Mt. Everest, two climbers died above 8000 meters; their last radio message was that they were both totally blind. In 1996, near Everest’s s...
Mount Deborah, Hayes Group, Alaska Range. The 6000-foot east face of Mount Deborah (2/3 of it is at an average angle of 64°) is the most impressive of all its magnificent sides. It has but one weakness: the east ridge, which climbs steeply from th...
Gulmatonga Valley, rock climbing. The branch valleys that rise south of the Zanskar road to Padam over the Pensi La hold many possible rock-climbing objectives. These small valleys offer potentially good climbing without the need for much bureaucr...
Author’s note: Passing judgments about the worthiness of other’s accomplishments goes against the grain of the anarchistic pursuit we call “climbing.” That being said, we all make judgments as part of the process of assimilating information to our...