FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDCalifornia, Temple Crag, Venusian Blind ArêteLinnea Erickson (age 22) had told a friend that she planned to solo climb the Venusian Blind Arête route (IV, 5.7) on Temple Crag. On Friday, October 24 Linnea le...
North Palisade, “The White Ship.” After climbing the Putterman Couloir, Steve Porcella and I ascended a route up the center of the northernmost cliff on North Palisade’s west side. It starts in the center of the face, just left of a small black wa...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 3 August William Phillips (31), Del Lang- bauer, Boyd Everett, Jim Underwood, and Clarence Serfoss were descending the Cassin Ridge which they had successfully ascended. They had reached 15,500 feet without event. At this ...
Hatun Ulloc, Karma de los Condores Direct (to summit). In the Ishinca Valley in late July, Brady Robinson and I free-climbed the excellent Karma de los Condores (IV 5.11+, Crill-Gallagher, 2004) and extended the route to the summit of Hatun Ulloc ...
STRANDED, WEATHER, FATIGUE California, Yosemite ValleyClint Cummins (29) had 13 years’ climbing experience in various mountain ranges, including ice climbing in the northeast and three El Capitan climbs in 1985. About 0600 on May 3, 1986, Cummins ...
Cordilleras Real and Quimsa Cruz, 1990. Neil Howell and I arrived at Mina La Argentina on the eastern side of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz in the third week of June, 1990. Despite bad weather and intense cold, we managed to make the first ascent of ...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 15 June Gary Fredrickson (27), George T. Dockery (37), Peter T. Sandstedt (21), Carl Moore (34), and Glen Fredrickson (20), were climbing the Curtis Ridge. The first three wereon one rope and the other two on another. T...
MOST trips to the Fairweather Range have been to the southern part of the range. In fact, the only previous approach to the range from the north had been a trip I had organized in 1974 in which we had landed at a lake at 85 feet at the foot of the...
EXHAUSTION, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,PARTY SEPARATED, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 18, 1988, a nine member Genet Expeditions climbing team departed the 5200 meter high camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley and began...
FALL ON ROCK–BELAY FAILURE, NO STOPPER KNOT, MISSED CLUES, INATTENTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley National Park, Church BowlOn October 12, Adam (31), Jason (57) and his son Colby (20) were climbing one-pitch routes at the Church Bowl ...
Victoria by the South Face. During our stay at Lake O’Hara we also made the first 1955 ascent of Victoria, and that by a new route up the south face. We cut diagonally up and across the moraine at the foot of the valley between Huber and Victoria ...
Mount Moran, The Blackfin. The ridge immediately east of the now classic south ridge of Mount Moran begins with a tower of dark rock, which has been named the Blackfin. This tower appears about 1000 feet above the first grassy ledge of the south r...
Cordillera Vilcanota. A four-man German expedition, led by Günter Hauser, spent this summer climbing in the Cordilleras’ Blanca and Vilcanota, of Peru. The results of their efforts were extremely rewarding, giving them a total of thirteen first as...
Rimo IV and Migpa, Ascents and Tragedy. An Indo-French Expedition went to the East Karakoram in July and August. Expedition members were (Indians) Harish Kapadia (leader), Huzefa Electricwala, Kaivan Mistry, Lt. Commander Satyabrata Dam, Raj Joshi...
In 1960, Christian Bonington, a budding officer in the British Army, had the persistence and good fortune necessary to land a berth on the British Services expedition to Annapurna II. From the summit ridges it was possible for Chris to look to t...
Kotur glacier, Pik Judith-Brian, south ridge; Nomad Domes, various ascents; Son Kul Canyon, new rock climbing area. The International School of Mountaineering (ISM) organized its regular expedition to the Tien Shan. It proved a successful trip, de...
Kara-Su Valley, Pik 4810 m, various new routes. In July 2002, our group of 11 Czechs who drink and climb everything, went to the Karavshin, where we split into four climbing teams. Three teams decided to climb the 1,200m northwest face of Pik 4,81...
1951--19871988GeographicalDistrictNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta225664977219British Columbia212834597217Yukon Territory292563000Ontario21642306Quebec15443000East Arctic6218102Wes...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Northern Monashee Mountains, 1952. This summer, Sterling B. Hendrick, Donald Hubbard, and I spent three weeks climbing and exploring in the northern end of the Monashee Mountains of British Columbia.We chartered a plane to fly supplies and equipme...