Nevada, White Mountains, Boundary Peak—On May 2, Burl Parkinson (55) and Francis Foley (53) were killed in a fall near the summit of 13,145-ft. Boundary Peak. Both men were active members of the Sierra Club, and experienced climbers in the Sierra ...

RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Twin OwlsOn June 30, at 2:45 p.m., Diane Russell (23) fell vertically 25 to 30 feet down a rock face while lowering herself down a rope. She sustained a compression fracture of a vertebra, bruised righ...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NO BELAY, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, South Maroon PeakOn August 16, Aspen climber Hillary Trish (21) fell while descending from a successful climb of 14,156-foot South Maroon Peak. Trish fell in clear, warm we...

Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s ToothJonathan KrakauerA new route on Kichatna Spire. The winter and spring had been spent scheming and psyching up for it, but we just couldn’t seem to get decent cards. After waiting several days for flying weather, To...

Ultar Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Britons Caradoc Jones, Stephen Reid and me and American Ed Webster. Ultar (7388 meters, 24,240 feet) is less than 3.5 miles from the Karakoram Highway, but it rises 3.5 miles (17,000 feet) above the he...

PULMONARY AND CEREBRAL EDEMA, FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, EXHAUSTION, HYPOTHERMIA, PARTY SEPARATEDAlaska, Mt. McKinleyA four-man MIKI expedition from Czechoslovakia arrived at McKinley Park on May 29. They checked in with Ranger Bob Gerhard on May 30 bef...

Mt. Challenger, Poltergeist Pinnacle, East Face. On July 3 Dan Aylward and I hiked to Perfect Pass via Hannegan Pass/Easy Ridge. On the 4th we traversed around Challenger Arm and climbed a new route on the southernmost of the prominent subsummits ...

This is the thirty-sixth issue Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the seventh that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: There were fourteen deaths from mountaineering a...

CLIMBING ALONE, WEATHER-LOST EQUIPMENT IN STORMBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonDuring the week of August 27, C.G. set out to attempt a solo climb of Mount Robson or Resplendent. He made it to the col between the two mou...

“Mt. Swanson,” Northwest Face. During the end of April and beginning of May, Jim Earl and I ventured to a little-explored area in the St. Elias Range referred to as the Fourth of July Cirque. This area is on the Hawkins Glacier at the base of the ...

Mount Everest, Avalanche and Tragedy. On September 21 an avalanche of snow and ice fellvery near Nuptse’s north face. The avalanche roared down the west face of Lhotse, striking a group of men headed for the South Col. It left uninjured one Japane...

James H. Kanzler, 1948–2011James H. Kanzler laced up his boots for the last time and “hiked over the pass” on April 18, 2011. Born April 22, 1948, he grew up in Montana, where he began climbing with his father and younger brother in his grade scho...

Broad Peak. Richard Sale. Translations from German text by Michaela Gigerl and John Hirst. Ross on Wye (UK):Carreg Ltd. 2004. 208 pages. £22.50. $45.00.Broad Peak was short-listed for the Banff Prize for Mountain Literature in 2005; one can only s...

Mount Niflheim, Monashee Range. Mount Niflheim is 1.3 miles west of Mount Thor on the Thor-Odin Creek divide. To our knowledge, the summit had been reached only once, by a traverse from Thor. Gary Speer, Keith Hertel and I flew to the basin west o...

The Mountains and Glaciers of Prince William Sound, AlaskaWm. Osgood Field, Jr.AT the northern apex of the Gulf of Alaska where the coast of the North American continent swings around from a northwest to a southwesterly direction is a large protec...

CB 13. Our expedition consisted of Miss Hiroko Okazaki, leader, Miss Michiko Izumida, Miss Gachiko Higashi and me. We entered the CB 13 branch glacier from the South Dakka Glacier. We made Base Camp on the tongue of the South Dakka Glacier at 15,4...

In August, Dave Sharratt, Pat Goodman, and I completed a free ascent of the northeast face of Mt. Hooker. The line generally followed Third Eye (VI 5.10 A4, Middendorf-Quinlan, 1993) in the lower half, then the upper corner systems of the Bois...

FALLING ROCK, ANCHOR FAILURE, ILLNESSWyoming, TetonsAt 0230 on July 18, 1982, Ron Johnson (33) and Jeff Averkamp (22) left the Lower Saddle to climb the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton. Snow conditions on the Valhalla Traverse caused them to ...

Gaurishankar Attempt. A nine-man Japanese expedition led by Masaaki Tomita attempted to repeat the American 1979 route on the southwest face of Gaurishankar (7134 meters, 23,906 feet). Base Camp at 12,800 feet was much lower than planned and was d...

Starting April 13 and finishing May 9, Louise Jarry, Terry Winkler, and I made an unsupported crossing of Bylot Island, 237km, with ascents in the Byam Martin Mountains of Sirmilik National Park. The original plan had been to begin at the northwes...