Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Torre Norte del Paine, Corn Wall

Torre Norte del Paine, Corn Wall. After a failed attempt on the east face of Cerro Torre, we returned to the Paine Towers. On February 15, Leigh McGinley, Celia Bull and I ascended a new route on the southwest spur of the west face of the Torre No...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy

Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. We were Javier Bermejo, Xabier Erro, Pili Ganuza de Goñi, Javier Garayoa, José Miguel Goñi, Anxton Ibarguren, Agustín Pagola and I. Having left Dassu on June 26, we got to Base Camp on July 5. Contrary to predicti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy

Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. A seven-man expedition left Cambridge University in June for the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, a range of mountains in the Cordillera Oriental, 200 miles northeast of Bogotá. Our aim was to split up on arrival at a base into thre...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Conway

Mt. Conway, 10,170 ft. First ascent, July 7. E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From Skene-Strahan col by way of Conway snowfield and lateral glacier of west flank to south rock arête. Several difficult steps are then ascended in reaching...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Olympic Mountains, Mount Cruiser, Southeast Face

Mount Cruiser, Southeast Face. On August 27 Paul Karkiainen and I climbed the southeast face of Mount Cruiser direct from its lowest point. The face is about 300 feet high, steep and unbroken but with adequate holds. The longest lead went 140 feet...


Accident Reports ANAM
Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. St. Piran

Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. St. Piran. On 16 July Dennis Sadler, Patricia Greenlaw, Alice Hryak, and Dianne Fowler planned to traverse the Lake Agnes trail (a recognized hiking trail) to the summit of the pass between Mt. Niblock and Mt. St....


Notes AAJ
Asia, China, Keeping the Facts Straight on Minya Konka

Keeping the facts straight on Minya Konka. My comment has been invited on the statement in the book The Conquest of Minya Konka by Shih Chan-Chun, Peking, 1959, which on page 53 reads as follows in reference to our 1932 Minya Konka expedition. “Th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huantsán, Western Summit and Other Peaks

Huantsán, Western Summit and Other Peaks. In July John Tarver and Kevin Starr climbed to the western summit of Huantsán up the north-facing ice slope between the main and west summits. They set out from the Laguna Tambillo in the Quebrada Rajucolt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Peaks above Darrah-i-Mulaw (Japanese)

Peaks Above Darrah-i-Mulaw (Japanese). The Akita expedition was made up of Kenji Hirasawa, leader, Akio Shoji, Yutaro Fujiwara, Yuicho Osato, Masaki Kaneda and Masaaki Hatakeyama. They climbed in the Darrah-i-Mulaw, which appears as “Toghw”. They ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Tharkot

Tharkot. After an expedition of the Climbers Club from Bombay, in May had been carried down in an avalanche from a point just above their high camp on Tharkot (20,010 feet), they abandoned their attempt. Later in the year the Mountaineers Club als...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mera Northeast Ridge

Mera Northeast Ridge. Our six-member expedition hoped to climb the north face of Mera. Base Camp was established on September 24 beside the Dig Glacier at 4580 meters. We were to climb alpine-style on whatever routes we saw fit. Briton Dave Hudson...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nilgiri South and Annapurna Attempts

Nilgiri South and Annapurna Attempts. An expedition composed of five Japanese, four Slovaks and a Frenchman was led by Shunji Takegawa. They tried the east ridge from the north on Nilgiri South and the Dutch route on the north face of Annapurna. O...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, North Face of Shadow Peak, July 24, 1950

North Face of Shadow Peak, July 24, 1950. On this 500-foot face some very difficult climbing was encountered by Bob and Doris Merriam and Leigh Ortenburger, one pitch requiring direct aid.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, River Road (Scenic Byway 128)

River Road (Scenic Byway 128). Dave Glouderman rope soloed the 5.9 tower high above the River Road at Mile Post 6 in December.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Pingora, East Face

Pingora, East Face. On July 21 Louis Vannatta and I climbed what we believe is a new start to the east-face, left-side-cracks route on Pingora. We started in a left-facing corner, just to the left of a huge corner and roof several hundred feet to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Sir Sandford Area, 1946

Sir Sandford Area, 1946. A climbing party led by Sterling Hendricks in 1946 reopened the Sir Sandford area, using a new approach from the Columbia by way of Swan Creek, which is the second tributary to the main river on the W. side below Surprise ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, El Niño, Second Ascent

El Capitan, El Niño, Second Ascent. In the meadow, on a clear fresh October afternoon, Patrick “Patch” Hammond and I reclined in our hammocks of smoke and alcohol, eagerly scoping the east buttress of El Capitan with the Huber brothers and their b...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-19941995GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta3229869816532British Columbia24997542204Yukon Territory322669104Ontario28652326Quebec25554000East Arctic722000...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt Edgar (6,618m), North Face Attempt Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range

In September and October 2010 our Russian team hoped to complete new routes on Edgar from the Nan Nem Guon Valley to the north. The main objective for Alexander Novikov and me was the unclimbed west face. The Nan Nem Guon is rarely visited by lo...

| Keywords
| Published 2010 | Author Vladimir Belousov


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-771959-7719781978USACAN.USACAN.Terrain1Rock14981535412Snow841145526Ice344122River7200Unknown10200Ascent or DescentAscent1162157629Descent99199418Unknown16112150Immediate CauseFall or slip on ...