EXHAUSTION, CEREBRAL EDEMA, INEXPERIENCE, SELF-ADMINISTERED DRUGSAlaska, Mount McKinleyBob Wheeler (age unknown) was a member of the North Cascades Alpine School guided expedition to the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. The group, led by guides Al...
Mount Spickard (formerly Glacier Peak 11), North Face. Early in July, Victor Lapatinskas and I paddled across Ross Lake and hiked into the rather “inaccessible” Chilliwacks. We climbed the north face of Mount Spickard via the prominent glacier tha...
Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. Laurie. On 1 July three Calgary climbers, who were to meet an 18 year old friend, Brian Lwyellan Andreason, of Calgary, at the base of a recognized climbing route toward the west end of the front face of Mt. Lauri...
EQUIPMENT FAILURE THROUGH IMPROPER USE—INADEQUATE ANCHORQuébec, Sageunay National Park, Cap Trinité, Les Grands Gallets (5.9, A2+, 350 m.)A couple began their planned three-day outing to climb Les Grands Gallets at Cap Trinité on Saturday August 4...
Manaslu. The fourth Korean expedition to Manaslu finally successfully climbed the mountain, ascending the northeast face. We started the approach march on March 7 and got to Base Camp (12,400 feet) on March 19. We established Camps I, II, III, IV ...
Mount Morrison, North Buttress Direct. On January 5, Les Wilson, George Bloom, Ray Jewell, and I completed the first winter ascent of the direct north buttress on Mount Morrison. The first day’s climbing, mostly F7, was the most challenging. The h...
Abraham, the Connoisseur’s Variation. In April, Dave Littman and I climbed the south face of Abraham in The Court of the Patriarchs. Dave had started planning during the preceding winter, and luck was on my side because I was his only available pa...
FALL ON ICEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Bourgeau, Bourgeau Right-HandOn January 4, a party of two was climbing Bourgeau Right-Hand (310 m. IV WI 4R). This climb is often very thin on the first two pitches and difficult to protect. The leade...
Iblar Valley. Another German expedition from Garmisch-Partenkirchen was led by Thomas Trübswetter. From July 4 to 13, they climbed all the significant peaks in the lblar Valley, all twelve over 16,400 feet and two, more than 19,685 feet (6000 mete...
Tilicho, Sherpa Winter Ascent. On January 24 the first all-Sherpa expedition climbed Tilicho. We were only three climbers: Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, leader; Gyalzen Sherpa and I. This expedition we arranged as an individual test and to change the Sherp...
Alpenbock Climbing Club. The year 1965 was the most active one in the club’s history for both climbing and skiing. On May 21-22, 10 members attempted a ski ascent of the Grand Teton, but were stopped by bad weather within 600 feet of the summit. S...
Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, 1984. Aniela Tukoiszewsa and Ewa Szczesniar from Poland climbed Handoy Norte by its east ridge between July 5 and 8. They ascended from the Pisco-Huandoy Este Glacier, taking the couloir which is between H...
Koh-i-Paghar. The Gamagoori Yama no Kai of Aichi Prefecture expedition was led by Tsukasa Nakase, and was composed of Koichi Ishikawa, Masaru Nagasaka, Jutaro Suzuki, Shigeharu Miwa and Dr. Shinko Kuzaki. They climbed first at the head of the Darr...
Chimborazo. After a week and three camps, Ted Liston, Paul Emerson, Troy Reiner, and I reached the summit of Chimborazo (20,563 feet) on April 1 by Edward Whymper’s original southwest route. As far as we can tell, no one has ever repeated this ori...
RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE KNOTUtah, Zion National Park, SpaceshotOn May 21, Roeslain Tamin (35) fell 180 feet to his death while rappelling from the popular climbing route Spaceshot in Zion National Park. Evidence and interviews lead to the follow...
New Route on Storm Point. The first ascent of Storm Point (10,040 ft.) by the S.W. ridge was made by Art Gilkey and Dick Pownall in August 1949. The approach is by the Cascade Canyon trail. Roped climbing begins at the very base of the ridge, only...
Lampak South. Ten climbers led by Prasanta Chakraborty and sponsored by the Mountain Lovers Association climbed Lampak South (20,750 feet) on September 21. The summit climbers were Milan Sen Gupta, Pranesh Chaudhury and Sherpas Pasang Tsering, Nim...
Kusum Kanguru. A British expedition climbed Kusum Kanguru (6367 meters, 20,889 feet) via the east face, a new route. On October 23, Nicholas Mason, leader, John Diplock, Julian Holmes, and Sherpas Lhakpa Dorje, Dawa Nuru, Ang Jangbu and Kami Tsher...
FALLING ICE, WEATHERWashington, White Chuck MountainOn August 4, 1985, Terry Miller (43) and Robert Packer were climbing White Chuck Mountain from the northeast. While attempting to cross an exposed area around the 2100 meter level, ice from above...
Cordillera de Colangüil, Cerro de la Quebrada Seca. A group from the nearby city of San Juan was active in this mighty and relatively untrodden zone in mid-January 2002, having as a goal the highest summit, Cerro del Lavadero (6122m). They took th...