Everest. Our expedition was composed of former Soviets Vladimir Balyberdin, leader, Anatoli Bukreev, Gennady Kopieka, Roman Giutashvili, Vladimir Gorbunov, Aleksei Klimin, Yelena Kunshova and Americans Kevin Cooney, Greg Smith and me. I belatedly ...
Breaking Point. Glenn Randall. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1984. 135 pages, color photographs, appendixes. $9.95.On May 11, 1980, Glenn Randall and partners Peter Metcalf and Pete Athens completed a grueling thirteen-day ascent of the central buttre...
Dientes de Rambo, Torre Norte del Paine and Paineta. After climbing the Torre Central del Paine [see full article—Editor], American Peter Garber and I stayed on to attempt new lines. Joined by Argentine Nicolas Benedetti and American Liane Owen, w...
REGIONAL SAFETY ACTIVITIESMost of the climbing clubs have good safety programs for their members. The following activities are reported because they seem to be offering a service to a larger group.The Mountaineers, Seattle have an active safety pr...
I was belaying my partner on January 16. We were climbing a new route not in the guidebook when he kicked off a baseball-sized rock from approximately 60 feet up. It made a direct hit, striking the center of my skull! Luckily I was wearing a helme...
Gasherbrum II, All-Women’s Ascent. The first all-women’s team from Britain to an 8000er was composed of Rhona Lampard, leader, Brede Arkless, Geraldine Westrupp, Kathy Bainbridge, Becky Thorp, Dr. Sally Churcher and as a guest from Poland, Wanda R...
Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi East. Our expedition was organized jointly by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and eight guide-instructors of the Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme at Chamonix. We had as our objective to traverse from Nanda Devi ...
Kula, west ridge, second ascent/possible variant. On June 29 Gaurav, JS Gulia, and Amardeep, with two HAPs, Fateh Chand and Pyare Lal, reached the 6,546m summit of Kula in the Rupshu region. Kula is the name assigned this peak on the most recent S...
Miura Bulls, an unusual mountaineering hazard. One of our best local climbers here (Mexico City—Editor), Carlos Palomé, has just climbed the Grand Teton. He considers the bison he saw there just a shade less dangerous than the Miura bulls, the mos...
Edith Cavell, Second Ascent of the North Face. On July 30 Gray Thompson and I quickly climbed the first third of the 4000-foot face on firm quartzite, finding good holds all the way to the Angel Glacier. We roped below the glacier and after two st...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). A Swiss expedition led by Norbert Joos climbed Gasherbrum I, three climbers getting to the summit. A 5-man Japanese expedition led by Osamu Funao attempted the north-face couloir on Gasher- brum I. They established Base...
Ten members of the Etchachan Mountaineering Club spent July in the Cumberland Mountains. Despite a late spring and “the worst weather in 20 years,” we managed to do some climbing between prolonged periods of bad weather. We climbed the following....
Mt. Silverthrone, West Face. In late March, Mark Westman and I ventured up the Traleika Valley, east of Denali, to try the massive 5,600-foot unclimbed west face of Mt. Silverthrone (13,220’). We skied in 40 miles from Kantishna and set up base ca...
Yerupcijá, Northeast Face. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Peter Soklic, Mato Podrekar, Radovan Riedl, Janko Ažman, Vojko Bucer, Izador Kotier, Kristijan Langus, Marjan Manfreda, Ljubo Nemecek, Dušan Polajnar, Joše Rožic, Miha Smolej and me. Af...
Climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Spring and Early Summer. Climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park continued to suffer from the lack of a guidebook. For nearly two years Walter Fricke’s guide has been out of print and many climbers hesita...
Mt. Strahan, 9960 ft. First ascent, July 7. D. Duncan, A. Megrew. From Skene-Strahan col by way of southwest shale arête, 1 hour, 15 minutes. Direct descent to Freshfield glacier, 50 minutes.
Loki, Asgard, Baffin Island. Our Australian Warren Lee, and I arrived at Summit Lake, in Auyuittuq National Park, on the last day of a two-week fine spell. From then on the weather continued to be generally poor with barely five fully fine days du...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—On September 16, Ben Cook and Bill Leitzel were climbing the south side of Mt. Hood at approximately the 10,000 foot elevation, just east of Crater Rock on the lower ridge.The rocks on which Cook was walking started to roll. He fe...
Nevado del Huila, Cordillera Central. This glacier-crowned massif of four peaks has been little known since ascents of two summits in 1939 and 1944 because of relative inaccessibility by road and the threat of bandits. With local advice that these...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. No formal section meetings were held in 1962. As in the past, major activities have been channeled through the Colorado Mountain Club and its various groups. Early in the year a luncheon and slide show with Norman D...