Mount Thor, West Face, Rappels and Prusiking. During July eighteen American and Canadian men and women tackled the wilds of Auyuittuq National Park with its variable weather, rugged glacially carved terrain and continuous daylight. We successfully...
Washington, Cascades, Bill’s Peak—On December 3, a party consisting of Bill Prater (34), Gene Prater (31), Gay Ingalson (21), and Fred Durham (18) were making a winter ascent of Bill’s Peak in the Mt. Stuart region of the Cascades. Bill and Gene a...
Pico Colón, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. After a seven-day approach march up the Donachuí valley and a bivouac, on February 22 four Peace Corps Volunteers, Paul Feyling, Jerry Vonnahme, Ed Lightfoot and Charles Kaska, and Dana Hathaway reached th...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The Cascade Section held two dinner meetings and two evening meetings in 1962. An average of 65 members attended each of the meetings. Those who were present for these meetings were entertained by slides and lectures on th...
FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinleyA three-member party from Seattle, Washington, flew to the Kahiltna Glacier on May 23, 1981, to climb the West Rib of Mount McKinley. On June 5 they moved to their high camp at 16,500 feet. At 8:00 a.m. on the 7th, t...
Twin Sisters, Northwest Face of South Twin. On June 13, Reed Tindall and I completed a new route on the northwest face of this 6932-foot peak, highest point in the Twin Sisters Range, located 10 miles southwest of Mount Baker. The 900-foot face wa...
British Columbia, Coast Range, North Peak, Golden Ears. On 23 February Fred Douglas (19) was one of a party of three making a ski- mountaineering ascent of the Golden Ears Peak. At 4,500 feet, the party removed skis for a rest. In the flat light D...
AVALANCHE, ICE ANCHOR FAILURE—FALL ON ICEBaffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park, Mount BreidablikOn July 8, after reaching the summit of Mount Breidablik, a group of 14 began descending their route of ascent. They had climbed the prominent glacier...
Ganesh Himal V. The joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition, of which I was leader, made the first ascent of Ganesh Himal V. The approach march from Kathmandu to Base Camp at 12,450 feet in the Chilime Khola took from March 7 to 20. The route ascended ...
Castle Rock Spire, West Face. Fred Beckey, Mort Hempel, Ben Borson, and I feared the rugged nine-hour approach to Castle Rock Spire deserved a higher rating than the beautiful plumb-like crack system we had spotted from the roadhead. Our fears wer...
The Bishoprics, first ascent. Over three days in April, without sleeping bags or a water filter-pump, David Everett and I did the first ascent of the Bishoprics, as labeled on the Zion National Park topographic map.The Bishoprics are a group of fo...
FALL ON ICEAlberta-, Banff National Park, Cascade Mountain, Cascade WaterfallOn January 3, a party of two was climbing on Cascade Waterfall (300 m. Ill WI3). Sometime between 1500 and 1600, the victim was leading final moves of the last pitch when...
Khawaja Muhammed Group. An expedition from Munich, led by Dr. Axel von Hillebrandt and made up of Jochen Edrich, Dr. Erwin Grötzbach, Hans Huber, Rainer Köfferlein and Ekke Rübel, climbed a peak of c. 18,375 feet, which they called Koh-e-München, ...
Annapurna South Attempt. A French expedition led by Patrick Jacquenot failed to climb Annapurna South by the east ridge. Despite eleven members and two Sherpas above Base Camp, they reached only 21,325 feet on October 21 and abandoned the climb be...
Sickle Moon and Brammah I, 1979, Correction. On page 637 of A.A.J. 1980 we gave erroneous information about a Japanese expedition; a correct account appears on page 158 of Iwa To Yuki, N° 74. The 10- man Japanese Alpine Club expedition led by Kats...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The 1965 summer camp was held at Glacier Lake in Banff National Park with 159 members and friends in attendance. This is a beautiful area with the Lyell Glacier dominating the scene to the west and Mount Murchison to the...
Artesonraju, Ski Descent. The ski descent expedition to Artesonraju consisted of Peter Werschkul, Jack Leaven, Doug Greene and me. In 1978 Patrick Vallençant first skied this peak by the same route. I was the first American and second person to do...
Darrah-i-Pinawi Peaks. The Ohtsu Alpine Club of Shiga prefecture sent Yoshitada Kiuchi, leader, Seibun Matsushita, Shunzo Nakanishi, Yoshio Tsujii, Kenji Matsushima and Dr. Michiaki Sato into the Darrah-i-Pinawi, a branch of the Tagabe Munjan. Bas...
El Guardián and Peaks of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Despite bad conditions we climbed the following peaks: Pico Tairona (16,404 feet) on July 20 via south face by John Kay, Dave Snoswell, Chris Spencer, Dick Skaife; El Guardián (17,343 feet...
FALL ON ROCK–LOWERING ERROR, NO HARD HATOregon, Smith Rock State Park, Left Slab Crack.On November 29, Kathy Lee and her friend Becky Hsu (both 27) were meeting some new friends at The Dihedrals at Smith Rock. The friends were late, so Kathy and B...