Colorado, Pikes Peak, Near Bear Creek, Specimen—On May 24, about 17 members and guests of the Colorado Mountain Club were engaged in a scheduled climb of Specimen, a rock above Bear Creek. The route was short, ordinarily requiring about 60 feet of...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlaska, Chugach State ParkOn April 21, John M. “Mickey” Hill (30) and Charles Head were climbing on “Ripple” a 200-foot vertical frozen waterfall (70°-90°) located in the Eklutna River Canyon. Mickey had led out so...
Torre del Norte, Hambre Es La Major Salsa. We arrived in Torres del Paine National Park in Chile on February 7, 1997. We planned to go to Campo Torres and try to get as much climbing in as possible via one-day blitzes, then explore the Paine area ...
Nuptse Attempt. A four-man Scottish expedition led by Malcolm Duff attempted a new route, the west ridge, hoping to traverse from the western summit to the main summit and descend into the Western Cwm. They failed on October 10 at 22,000 feet.Mich...
Rock climbing, brief summary. Working from south to north, this report mentions only sample highlights of New Zealand crag climbing. Starting with the Darrans, where a lot of activity focused on Babylon and Chasm Crag, Derek Thatcher made the firs...
Taulliraju, Southwest Buttress. Our climb of Taulliraju was not a new route but rather an alpine-style climb of the 1980 Italian route. Alex Lowe was my partner and it took us three days in June. The route is a real classic with difficult rock (ex...
Teepe’s Pillar, North Face. On July 21 Yvon Chouinard and Ken Weeks started this new route from the col between the Pillar and the Grand Teton, descending slightly on a ledge out onto the north face to a difficult overhanging block. To reach the m...
Pico Vértigo, South Face and Other Climbs. Attempting to gain experience in all kinds of weather and all kinds of terrain, Venezuelan mountaineers based in Mérida accomplished during 1985 the following climbs of note. Pico Abanico was ascended by ...
SNAKE BITENew York, ShawangunksA man (24) was bitten on the hand by a copperhead while climbing Dirty Gerdie (5.8). He did not fall as a result. (Source: Brad Snyder)
Aconcagua, South Face, Winter Solo, 1986. Spaniard Fernando Ruiz made the second winter ascent of the south face of Aconcagua solo in alpine style. At the beginning of September, 1986, he made a first attempt with Antonio de Lorenzo, but they were...
Caucasus: The Proletarski Turist has built a large hut on the route to the Dongusorun Pass, and two huts on Elbruz at 13,800 and 17,400 feet are contemplated.
Nacimiento, New Route, Previously Unreported. Between December, 1999, and March, 2000, I returned to the Bonete-Pissis area in the southern Puna de Atacama, south of the well-known Ojos del Salado. On December 23, W. Zieglmeier, M. Betzl, and I cl...
FALL ON ROCK, FOOT JAMMEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo SpireOn August 21, 1986, a party of three climbers of intermediate experience attempted the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. It was a warm, sunny day. On the first pitch, at an...
Bhagirathi I, West Ridge Ascent and Tragedy. From August 16 to 23 Charlie Heard, John Mothersele and I made the first ascent of Bhagirathi I’s west ridge, a 7000-foot-high superb free climb on white granite in its lower half, which culminated in a...
Gurja Himal Ascent and Tragedy. A joint expedition of nine Japanese and three Nepalese climbed Gurja Himal from the Kaphe Khola, west of the peak, up the west ridge and northwest face. They had three high camps. On April 29, the leader Soichi Koba...
Wrangell/Saint Elias Climbs. Continuing with the ski-mountaineering trends on the great peaks (Bona, Churchill, Bear, Blackburn, Logan and Sanford), Ultima Thule Outfitters guided, flew and outfitted a multitude of expeditions. Highlights include ...
Jogin I. Walt Kaskel, Joseph Mazzotta, Dick Osborn, Dick Painter, Ron Rickman and I as leader began the two-day trek up the Kedar Ganga from Gangotri on May 30 and placed Base Camp just above the lake, Kedar Tal, at 15,000 feet. After walking on t...
A.A.C., New England Section. The year began with a determined group of Bostonians, meeting at Chairman Streibert’s home in Newton, to delegate some of the responsibilities of the newsletter, mailing list, treasury, planning of meetings, and issues...
Makalu Post-Monsoon Attempts. Aside from the international expedition led by Michael Woolridge and the American one led by Joe Frank, there were three unsuccessful ones on the northwest side of Makalu in the post-monsoon period. Swiss Bruno Zaugg ...
Moskenesoy Island, various winter ascents. The Lofoten Islands looked to be a wild area in winter. Moskenesoy, the stunningly beautiful and southernmost main island of the group, appeared promising on the map, but we could find no information on w...