Commuters on Chiquito DomeThomas HigginsMY ENJOYMENT OF CLIMBING begins long before the climb. I tingle as I think about Chiquito Dome. While I scamper around the little bouldering outcrop, Indian Rock in Berkeley, I imagine climbing the golden su...
Sepu KangriCompleting a dream, two climbers finally reach the summit of the secret mountain” of East Tihet.Carlos BuhlerTo begin with it was a dream: a season, a place, a mountain, and a team. We were lucky climbers: those whose privilege it would...
Bollinger Peak, Southwest Face. In August, Matt Parramore and I made a new route on the southwest side of Bollinger Peak, facing Shadow Lake. It is a couple of hundred feet to the left of the West Face Route (which is on the most prominent feature...
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. It was reported that in September, 1995, the French team of Michèle Vegezzi, J.P. Boulangié and Yves Astier climbed Cerro Khunu (5458 m) via a large 300- meter couloir on the southeast face, encountering ice and m...
Picture Maker of the Old West: William H. Jackson, by Clarence S. Jackson. 303 pages, with 393 illustrations. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1947. $7.50.Anyone with an eye for pictures and a love of the great open spaces should enjoy this book...
El Tronador, Pico Internacional, Northeast Face. On January 13 Alberto Bendinguer, Marcelo and Gabriel Aguilar, Petra Friedrich, Marcelo Pérez, Argentines, and I made the second ascent of the northeast face of the highest summit, the Pico Internac...
Mt. Huntington, Golden Granite West Face, New Route. Mentally noted in the summer of 1996, this route would take two tries to complete. A beautiful seam travels from the highest tongue of the glacial cirque of the Tokositna to the prominent tower ...
STRANDED—LOST, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount Rainier, Disappointment CleaverEarly on the morning of September 1, the two-person Connell party called Mount Rainier communications by cell phone to report that they had lost the c...
Michel-Gabriel Paccard under der Montblanc, by Carl Egger. 8vo., 100 pages, with illustrations. Basel: Gaiser and Haldemann, 1943. $2.50.The author is an artist, whose books on the aiguilles of Mont Blanc and the Caucasus are well known. The prese...
Mount Everest, South Col Clean-up. A pre-monsoon cleanup effort by 15 Sherpas, headed by Sonam Gyaltsen and organized by the Nepal Mountaineering Association and the Nepalese government, carried away 1800 kilos of rubbish discarded by hundreds of ...
California, Yosemite National Park, Lost Arrow. On 19 April Glenn Denny and John Weichard, both about 22, were caught on the 3rd pitch of the lost Arrow by a sleet and snow storm. Being lightly dressed both were greatly affected by the cold. A ret...
South Howser Tower, Minaret, Bugaboos, Purcell Range. Fabrizio Defrancesco and I arrived in the Bugaboos on July 18. We first repeated some of the routes on Bugaboo Spire and Snowpatch. We then climbed a new route on the Minaret, a prominent rock ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksA man (50) fell three meters and broke his tibia while climbing Simple Ceilings (5.5) with no protection placed. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisThis is the same as the climbing accident on Wrist...
Koa Rong I. Our members were Mitsuru Shibata, general leader, Hitoshi Maebashi, Ikuo Nakashima, Motoyuki Kabayashi, Masaaki Sato, Syuzo Hattori, Kimikazu Ando, Miss Kimiko Hayashi, Miss Yoshiko Matsui and I as climbing leader. We climbed the south...
Eastern Torssuqatoq Spires, New Routes. In August, John Bracey led a British group that included Ian Renshaw, Virginia Cooper, Steve Powel, Matt Goode, Vicky Barret, Charlotte Manwiring, and Alex Messenger to the cirque of peaks north of Ujarasugs...
Numbur Attempt. Seven Spaniards led by Andrés Fernández attempted the southwest ridge of Numbur. Three reached 19,350 feet on October 16 and the next day the team decided to give up the climb. Daily snowfall meant difficult, dangerous snow conditi...
Pilot Peak: This spectacular rock pinnacle near Cook City, Montana, was climbed in July, 1932, for the first time by Harry Mitchell, Robert McKenzie, and Hollis Mees.
Everest. Our Naomi Uemura Film Expedition had to wait until after the Indians had made their last summit bid. We set up camps and filmed, but we had to wait well below the South Col while the Indians made repeated unsuccessful attempts. Finally on...
Khatang. An expedition of 14 Swiss and a Liechtensteiner (Helmut Kindle) was led by Karl Kobler. They climbed the northeast ridge and placed 14 climbers on the summit (6782 meters, 22,250 feet). They had two high camps. The summit was reached on O...
The Climber in Fiction. In addition to the lists already published, our member, Mr. Goodrich, sends the following:Bates, Ralph. The Miraculous Horde (‘The 43d Division’). London, 1939.Dunn, Robert. The Youngest World. New York, 1914. Gompertz, M. ...