FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount RainierAt noon on July 21, 1985, Ranger Phillips was notified by Ranger Rick Kirschner that an injured climber was stranded near 2875 meters on Success Cleaver, with a possible fractured left ankle.At 0530 the Brian G...
Cordillera de Olivares, Nevado de Bauchaceta. A group composed of Miguel Beorchia Nigris, Luis Pontoriero, and I arrived at the post of Tocota in the last days of January 2002, thanks to the help of Gendarmeria Nacional (Border Police). From there...
Carrizal, Cordillera Central. A German group led by the Austrian, Hannes Gasser of the Alpinschule Innsbruck, was prevented by the earthquake from going to the Cordillera Blanca in June 1970. Instead, they left the Lima-La Oroya road just north of...
Tilitso Attempt. This group of 34 French, Spaniards and a Belgian was really more like three trekking parties out to try a 7000er. The first group reached Base Camp on October 13 but deep snow prevented their porters from bringing the necessary ba...
Tetons. During the past few years many important new climbs have been made in the Tetons. Since for one reason or another these have not been published, it seems appropriate to give a summary of them here from south to north.
Mount Logan West Peak on Skis. The Tokai University Alpine Club party was composed of Yoshio Ohkubo, Kiyoshi Takabayashi, Junichi Saito and me. On the afternoon of May 16 we flew by jet helicopter across the “green kingdom of wild animals” and lan...
Volcán Reclus (1,425m). On April 13, 2008, Natalia Martinez (Argentina) and I established base camp at the head of Amalia Fjord, on the west side of the Southern Patagonian Icefield. The camp was nine km west of Volcán Reclus, one of five volcanoe...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, INATTENTION, UNROPED, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Asulkan Range, Mount LedaOn April 10, an experienced mountaineer, Greg S. (40), registered with the Warden Service at Rogers Pass for ski mountaineering, an...
Chaukula, first ascent. On August 13 Chris Mothersdale and Trevor Willis made the first ascent of Chaukula (6529m) by the southeast ridge (Alpine AD). Chaukula is the highest of a group of mountains in the Rupshu area of the Ladakh Himalaya. It li...
The Climber’s Guide to North America. Volume I: West Coast Rock Climbs. John Harlin III. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1984. 358 pages, black and white photographs, drawings, route diagrams, maps, bibliography. $22.00.John Harlin has embarked on an am...
Island-in-the-Sky. Dave Madera, Bob Novellino, Jorma Hayes and Bret Sutteer climbed a virgin butte approximately one mile north of the Tombstone, establishing Rest in Peace (5.10) and Shallow Burial (5.10).
Pegish Zom I and Other Peaks. Our expedition, organized by the Bologna section of the Italian Alpine Club consisted of Dr. Achille Poluzzi, Gilberto Bertolani, Giovanni Calza, Benito Modoni, Alziro Molin, Guerrino Sacchin, Nando Stagni, Gian Carlo...
Cerro Torre, Cleaning of Fixed Rope. Discovering that over 1000 meters of fixed rope had been left during the filming of an ascent of Cerro Torre, Austrian Tommy Bonapace and a companion were helicoptered to the summit of the mountain. They spent ...
Z3, Zanskar. Italians led by Sergio Maturi completed the seventh ascent of Z3 (6270 meters, 20,570 feet). From Camp II, on August 15, Tiziano Cantalamessa, Franco Giansanti, Andrea and Stefano Di Lello climbed to the summit.Luciano Ghigo, Centro I...
FALLS ON ROCK, BELAYER DROPPED LEADER, RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPE, FOOT AND LEG STUCK BETWEEN ROCKS West Virginia, New River Gorge and Cooper’s RockThere were reports of eight climbing accidents resulting in injury from the above areas in 1993. The...
Tien Shan Traverse. From August 6 to 20, a Soviet team from Kazakhstan of previous Everest and Kangchenjunga expeditions made an astonishing alpine-style traverse of the twelve highest summits of the Central Tien Shan. They spent 15 days on the hi...
Tibet restrictions, Everest bolting. Uncertainty about Tibet being open to climbers, indeed to any foreigners, led many to go to the Nepalese side of Everest, rather than wait in the hope of being granted permission to enter Tibet. Would-be Cho Oy...
FALL/SLIP ON ROCK, EXCEEDED ABILITIES—Oregon, Mt. Hood. David Mickelson (18) fell 700 feet to his death from the face of Castle Crags on Mt. Hood. Mickelson and Brian Miller (18) had started their ascent of Mt. Hood at 6 a.m. on September 9, and h...
Everest, summer attempt to ski and snowboard the mountain. There was only one expedition to the mountain during the summer and they planned a ski/snowboard descent. The two climbing members were Jimmy Chin, the skier, and Stephen Koch, the snowboa...
Grand Teton, Enclosure Visionquest Couloir, Tetons. A new route on the Enclosure, branching out to the west from the standard Black Ice Couloir, was pioneered on August 10 by Michael Stern and Stephen Quinlan. The initial 600 feet of the Black Ice...