CORNICE COLLAPSE, POOR POSITIONColorado, San Juans, Engineer MountainOn April 2, David Ganley (32), Fred Hutt (24), and Mike Seeberg (30) left Coal Bank Pass parking lot at 0700 on snowshoes to climb Engineer Mountain via the North Ridge. They lef...
Changuch (6,322m), northwest ridge from south. Before 2009 Changuch was attempted unsuccessfully three times from the south, via the Pindari Glacier. In that year Martin Moran’s British expedition approached from the Lawan Valley to the north and ...
EXPOSURE, FATIGUE, FROSTBITEAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn a winter ascent of the Muldrow Glacier route, Fred Barstad (29) had frostbitten his toes about 16,000 feet at the end of a hard day while building a snow cave. The team was using double boots with...
Huandoy Sur, Northeast Face, 1979. A very direct route on this face was done solo by the Frenchman Yves Astier in 1979.
Torre del Norte, Giorgio Giannaccini. We left Italy on January 8 and arrived in Campamento Torres on January 14. On January 21, after two carries to high camp, we started to climb, but high stratified clouds, cold and taut wind blocked our progres...
Pumori, Winter Ascent, 1982. Early in December our small party arrived at the Pumori Base Camp to attempt the first winter ascent of this, one of the world’s most beautiful mountains. The four of us, Ned Gillette, Jan Reynolds, Steve McKinney and ...
Canterbury region, summary. Showing that there are still plenty of new things to do in the Southern Alps, if you are motivated, Guy McKinnon ventured alone onto the northwest face of Malcolm Peak (2,512m) to make the first ascent of this 500m grey...
Taulliraju, Entire Southeast Ridge. Mark Miller and I made three unsuccessful attempts on the south face of Taulliraju in late May and early June which ended in bad weather. We decided to try the entire southeast ridge instead. On June 7 we approa...
Tetons. Most of the ambitious activity in the Tetons during the past summer was centered on the classic routes rather than in searching for new routes. For instance, both the north face of the Grand Teton and the south ridge of Mount Moran were as...
Pico Bolívar, First All Women Ascent. An all-women local team attempted to climb the highest mountain in Venezuela but failed the first time due to unseasonal weather. The second attempt was successful and took place on April 27 at the end of the ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF “FRIEND”New York, ShawangunksA man (24) was seconding on Never Never Land (5.10) when he fell and fractured his fibula. The ten-meter fall resulted from the fact that a Friend placed directionally pulled out. (Source: Brad...
Aconcagua. Aconcagua was the goal of a Polish group led by Andrzej Gardas. Of the 14 members, 13 reached the summit and eight got there twice. Piotr Konopka and Zbigniew Winiarski climbed the French route on the south face in just two days. Anna S...
Khan Yailik, First Ascent. Mt. Khan Yailik rises to 6744 meters in the western part of the Kun Lun mountain region, about 800 kilometers from Kashgar along the Xingiang-Tibet road near the border of India. The mountain name, Khan Yailik, means “Ki...
Garmo: A Russian expedition under the leadership of Nikolai Vasilevich Krylenko returned late in October after an unsuccessful attempt to climb this, the highest peak in the Russian dominions. They were unable to find a feasible route for a close ...
Incahuasi Region, Various Ascents. On the last days of January, a truck left the members of the Argentine-Czech Incahuasi Expedition in base camp (4400m) on the slopes of mighty Volcan Incahuasi (6638m) on the Argentine-Chilean border. Czech membe...
FALL ON SNOWBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn August 1, 1986, Ken Nelson (42) and Mark Strother (28) set out with two other climbers to ascend the south-west face of Mount Robson (3954 meters). The two others turned back on August ...
Kharchakund, Northeast Face. After a three-day approach, we set up camp at the foot of Kharchakund’s north ridge. Our goal was to make the second ascent of the peak by a new route, the northeast face. The peak was first ascended by Japanese in 198...
Tukche. Four Koreans led by Shin Ho-Jim climbed the normal north ridge route of Tukche. Leom Doo-Hee and Yang Jeong-Sawn and Sherpas Ang Dorje and Gelbu went to the summit (6920 meters, 23,704 feet) on September 4.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club...
Unclimbed Peaks in the Chigmit Mountains. On July 7, Cliff Hudson’s son from Talkeetna flew Martin Göggelmann and me to the south side of Chakachamna Lake for a week’s climbing. We set up Base Camp on a sandbank near the lake, amid bear tracks. Th...
Bhrigupanth, West Buttress. In September, I led an expedition to the Kedar valley of the Gangotri region. From September 18 to 20, Zbigniew Kroskiewicz and I made a new route, the west buttress of Bhrigupanth (6772 meters, 22,220 feet). The route ...