Notes AAJ
Cleaning and Maintaining Climbing Base Camps in South America

Cleaning and Maintaining Climbing Base Camps in South America. In South America there are many beautiful climbing areas that are utilized by a large number of climbers. One feature that all these areas have in common is a lack of facilities for hu...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, California, Joshua Tree National Monument

FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn September 22, 1985, I (Allen Sanderson [22]), was leading a moderate 5.8 crack on Dogleg. I had made good progress placing protection every two to three meters. About 12 meters into the climb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat South Summit, East Buttress

Nanga Parbat South Summit, East Buttress. The east buttress, which rises from the upper Bazhin Glacier, had long attracted my attention since I had first reconnoitered the Rupal Face with Toni Kinshofer in 1963. We got to Base Camp on the left mor...


Accident Reports ANAM
Oregon, Mount Hood

Oregon: Mount Hood. Just before dawn on 29 October 1949, Donald Welk, a 20-year-old Lewis and Clark College student, was killed in a 3000-foot sliding fall. His sister Alice (17) and another climbing companion, Robert Buscho (24), a Portland firem...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tatewari, Fiducia al Sentiero North America, Mexico, Nuevo León

In December 2009 and early January 2010, Alessandro Baù and I opened Fiducia al Sentiero (500m, 10 pitches, 7b+ [5.12c; 7a obligatory]) on Tatewari’s south wall. The route is a mix of bolts and trad: six pitches trad, with the rest having bolts...

| Published 2009 | Author Matteo Della Bordella


Accident Reports ANAM
Snow Block Collapse Alaska, Mount Johnson

On June 4, 1987, Charles Sassara (?) and Dave McGivern (?) were climbing up the icefall just to the north of Mount Johnson which is located in the Ruth Gorge. The pair was doing an alpine ascent from their base camp.About 500 meters above the glac...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori Ascent and Tragedy

Pumori Ascent and Tragedy. Dan Fox, Rich Pierce, Richard Wilson, Kevin Murray, John Taylor and I wanted to make the winter ascent of the south ridge of Pumori. Andy Randall was Base Camp manager. We lost Taylor and Murray to illnesses before reach...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Huntington, West Face, Count Zero Route

Huntington, West Face, Count Zero Route. The ascent of a difficult new route on the west face of Mount Huntington by Clay Wadman and Bruce Miller is described in a full article earlier in this Journal.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Bergschrund, Frostbite, Weather, Alaska, Mount Mckinley, West Buttress

FALL INTO BERGSCHRUND, FROSTBITE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn the morning of June 16th, climbers woke to clear skies and calm winds at 17,200-foot high camp on the West Buttress. At 0800 as many a three private parties and two g...


Club Activities AAJ
Yale Mountaineering Club

Yale Mountaineering Club. The summer of 1967 was a very active one for the YMC with members climbing in areas from the Arctic to Europe. Close to home, Cannon Mountain received a great deal of attention. A second ascent there of the YMC Dike (IV, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna

Gangapurna. Our expedition was made up of two women, Nam Nan-Hee and Jeoung Young-Hee, both of whom went to the summit, and six men, Kim Ki-Chul, leader, Uhm Gae-Sung, Shim Gun-Shik, Nam Young-Hyun, Min Kyeong-Young and me. We climbed the east rid...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Noshaq, Southwest Face

Noshaq, Southwest Face. Our 11-member group wanted to make a ladies ascent of Noshaq. We were Janusz Kurczab, leader, Janucz Onysz- kiewicz, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Jan Holnicki-Szulc, Jan Lewicki, Andrzej Lapinski, Andrzej Marczak, Andrzej Sikorski, Kr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Chile, Cordon Granito, Overview

Cordon Granito, overview and various ascents. Cordon Granito is part of the Río Cipreses National Reserve, located in Chiles VI Region, about 100km south of Santiago and just north of the better-known Torres del Brujo Range. Before we visited the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Southwest Ridge of Disappointment Peak, July 9, 1952

Southwest Ridge of Disappointment Peak, July 9, 1952. This spectacular ridge rises 1500 feet from Garnet Canyon. Being “purists,” Bob Merriam and Dick Emerson stayed right on the ridge and found the climbing excellent.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Lungma Ri Area, Various Activity, Previously Unreported

Lungma Ri Area, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. In July-August, 1997, we made a traverse of the Transhimalaya and climbed several 6000-meter peaks near Ombu Lake. Against our expectations, we found a mountain massif in this area with seve...


Club Activities AAJ
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The D.M.C. is alive and well, still doing things quietly, but with a flair. Andy Harvard, Jim Janney, and Todd Thompson returned to the Andes this year for more spectacular climbing. In 1970 they had taken part in th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Shar

Lhotse Shar. A Spanish Catalan expedition was led by Señorita Mercè Macià and composed of Manu Badiola, Antoni Ricart, Carles Valles, Víctor Marín, Pere Torres, Miquel Sala, Manuel Punsola and Josep Lluis Sasot. They established five camps on the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Gloppedalen, South Face, Civil Twilight Norway, Rogaland

There are climbers, and there are climbers. The climber, Johannes, who has honed his skills doing several serious solo climbs on Blamannen, is struggling midway to the great roof on the south face of Gloppedalen. Your humble narrator—the climber—w...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Husband-and-Wife Ascent

Nanga Parbat, Husband-and-Wife Ascent. We two made the ascent alone. In Base Camp at 13,450 feet were our friend Dr. Claire-Lise Bouvier and Liliane’s brother Alain Bontemps. We had no high-altitude porters, no artificial oxygen, no fixed camp abo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Aconcagua

Aconcagua. On February 13 Californians Bill Feldman, Brian Gregory, Dennis Hennek, Barbara Lilley, Thomas Limp, Norma Viault and Gail Wilts climbed Aconcagua by the normal route.