Blamann, north face, Lost and Found. From August 4 to 8 Finnish climbers Jarkko- Juhani Henttonen, Johannes Kärkkäinen, and Kauri Kurki climbed a new route between Atlantis (400m, 1990) and Bongo Bar (400m, 1998). Lost and Found is seven pitches l...
Fees Collected for Preparation of the Route through the Khumbu Icefall. Much of the work of making the route through the Khumbu Icefall was performed by the Sherpas employed by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and a Spanish expedition. For their work in t...
Le jeu de la montagne et du hasard. Anne Sauvy. Arthaud-Montalba, Paris, 1985. 16 short stories. 274 pages. 75 French francs.When I was given this delightful collection of mountain short stories, I had no real intention to read it all. I politely ...
Torre Norte del Paine, Solo. On January 10, Argentine Nicolás Benedetti made a solo ascent of the Monzini route on the Torre Norte del Paine, self- belaying himself in the two pitches above the col between the north and central towers. He took ten...
Alaska, University Peak—An accident occurred in July on the University Peak Expedition in Alaska. A climber dislodged a large rock with the fixed rope which he was using while climbing up a rock couloir. The rock fractured his forearm. The two doc...
VARIOUS FALLS ON SNOW - CAUSES INCLUDED OFF ROUTE, SEPARATED FROM GROUP, INADEQUATE FOOTWEAR (SNEAKERS), ICE AXES ON PACKS, FALLING ROCK, AND ONE HAPE FATALITY California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchThe five climbing incidents on Mount Shasta we...
Gasherbrum II. Toni Fullin, Tito Planzer, Peter Stadler and I left Dassu on May 8, the first expedition of the year. For days we plowed through knee-deep snow and got to Base Camp on May 19. The glacier from Base Camp to Camp I was very dangerous,...
Kanjiroba. The Getsuryo Kai expedition which attempted the mountain in September and October from the north peak was led by Akira Takiguchi. The climb ended in tragedy when Seiiji Takato slipped and fell 5000 feet from 19,700 feet when he was clim...
Shinkun East. A seven-member Indian team, led by Subrata Chakraborty and organized by the Himalayan Club, made the first ascent of Shinkun East (6,081m), which rises to the west of the Shinkun (formerly Shingo) La. Shinkun East is a relatively ins...
Mount Robson. Mount Robson was the scene of many attempts this past summer. The northwest ridge saw two attemps—one by Willi Pfisterer, the Austrian guide, and two others who got to within 250 feet of the summit in early July. Dangerously loose po...
"Watermelon” and "Siffleur" Peaks. Having packed in the previous day from the Jasper Highway via the Helen Creek trail over Dolomite Pass, on July 22 David Michael, Graham Matthews, Moses Goddard, Lynne Stearns, Rob Wallace and I made the first as...
Broad Peak. Two Japanese expeditions successfully climbed Broad Peak by the normal route. Koji Sekine was the leader of one and Nima Temba Sherpa was the climbing leader. On July 21, Masakatsu Tamura, Nobuhiro Tsuji and porters Rajib Shah and Sarw...
Mount Thor, West Face, Diagonal Buttress, Weasel Valley, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. The diagonal buttress on the west face of Mount Thor angles upward to the north shoulder, forming the left retaining wall for a dike of red hematite. ...
Denali, Mascioli’s Pillar, New Route. On June 15-16, Steve House and Steve Swenson made the first ascent of what formerly was known as the Radio Tower on the South Buttress of Denali, renaming it Mascioli’s Pillar in honor of their friend, Steve M...
Yerupajá Sur, West Face Attempt, Tsacra Chico and Other Peaks. The Stuttgart Section of the DAV Expedition had as members Ernst Schillingen Gerhard Esche, Joachim Köninger, Rainier Schlump, E. Strobel and me as leader. We climbed in June above the...
Warbonnet Peak. In June Charlie Fowler and I made two free climbs in the Wind Rivers that equal and surpass the free routes on the Diamond of Longs Peak in length, difficulty and beauty. Both routes were on Warbonnet Peak. Feather Buttress follows...
Mt. Skene, 10,100 ft. First ascent, July 7. A. Megrew, D. Duncan, E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, P. Kaufmann. From Freshfield glacier by way of broad couloir between Mt. Skene and Strahan. Thence ascend snow slopes. Ascent from camp, 4 hours, 30 m...
Mount Thor, West Face, Rappels and Prusiking. During July eighteen American and Canadian men and women tackled the wilds of Auyuittuq National Park with its variable weather, rugged glacially carved terrain and continuous daylight. We successfully...
Washington, Cascades, Bill’s Peak—On December 3, a party consisting of Bill Prater (34), Gene Prater (31), Gay Ingalson (21), and Fred Durham (18) were making a winter ascent of Bill’s Peak in the Mt. Stuart region of the Cascades. Bill and Gene a...
Pico Colón, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. After a seven-day approach march up the Donachuí valley and a bivouac, on February 22 four Peace Corps Volunteers, Paul Feyling, Jerry Vonnahme, Ed Lightfoot and Charles Kaska, and Dana Hathaway reached th...