Sarapo. The Japanese Yamanoko (Children of the Mountains) Alpine Club expedition made the second ascent of Sarapo (20,155 feet) on July 6. (First ascent by Austrians Bachmann and Lugmayer in 1954.) Takayuki Musha and Hiroshi Nakatsubo made the asc...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. There is no restriction on the numbers of members an expedition may have on the Tibetan side of Everest. A commercial British party organized by Out There Trekking led by Jonathan Tinker consisted of 19 climbing members...
Talkeetna Range. The year’s noteworthy climbs in this accessible range began on March 3 when my wife Grace and I with Dub Bludworth made the first ascent of Eska Mountain (5680 feet) by its southwest ridge. On July 6 Bob Spurr did better than on t...
Mount Everest, Pre-monsoon. No clients and just one Sherpa summitted from the two commercial expeditions on the Nepalese side. The only other team from Nepal saw two members and three Sherpas summit. Kami Rita Sherpa plunged to his death while cli...
Mazamas. In 1951 the Mazamas, of Portland, held their annual outing from July 22nd to August 5th at Horseshoe Lake in the Wallowa Mountains of northeastern Oregon. This wilderness area had been the site of three previous Mazama outings (1918, 1931...
Center Route on Absolutely Free Pinnacle: Shark’s Back. On August 7, Mark Klemens, Sheldon Smith, and I put up this route located on the Lower Brother. The climbing was marked by a little of everything, but mainly some very hard jam-cracks. A few ...
Spire Point, Northwest Face. On July 29 Gary Brill, my brother Carl and I climbed this face. An approach was made from a camp on Itswoot Ridge via a prominent col west of the Spire Point massif. Begin by taking a line up the middle of the northwes...
Block Tower, Trout Fishing in America. Guy Edwards and I spent seven days in early September in the remote and practically untouched Leaning Tower group, west of the town of Kimberly and south of the popular Bugaboos. Our first day was spent recon...
Tirich Mir East. In 1950 Arne Naess headed an expedition which climbed to the highest summit of Tirich Mir (25,263 feet). This year he returned with his fellow Norwegians, Dr. Kjell Friis-Baastad, Ralph Höibakk, Anders Opdal and Per Vigerust. The ...
An Italian expedition to Annapurna III was led by Francesco Santon with Renato Cepparo as deputy leader. There were 27 members, some of whom were trekkers, but they claimed that 19 would have been capable of reaching the summit. They climbed the w...
Alpamayo, Southwest Face. Rudolf Riedl and I set up our Base Camp at Jancarurishcocha in the Quebrada Alpamayo on July 11 along with our friends from the Attergau expedition. (Austrians Karl Eichhorn, Horst Pelska and Franz Schaden of that group c...
Kitaraju Alpamayo and Loyaqjirka. Making our approach via the Quebrada Santa Cruz, a leisurely two-day walk from Cashapampa brought us to Base Camp on June 28 at 14,500 feet. Camp I was established at 16,250 feet at the edge of the glacier on the ...
Chullunko, 1981. On July 29, 1981 Peter Getzels and I established Base Camp just below the Palcay Pass at approximately 15,000 feet. The following day we climbed Chullunko (17,127 feet) by the rock ridge which runs virtually from the summit back t...
Devil’s Castle, Evil Eye In September Glen Henshaw, Jonathan Smoot, and I climbed a new route on the 800-foot north face of Devil’s Castle in the Wasatch Mountains. Beginning at the lowest point of the face we ascended indistinct cracks 120 feet r...
Ascents of Angel Peak, The Point of Damocles, and Whitehorse Peak. The 10-member team of Ken Findlay, Philip Kendon, Ashley Hardwell, Paul Hudson, Stuart Gallagher, Ken Mosley, David Suddes, Graham Treacher, John Hudson and Dave Penlington left th...
Mount Index, Middle-Main Peak Gully. On January 20, Fred Dunham and I climbed the gully between the Middle and Main Peaks of Mount Index from Lake Serene, south of the South Norwegian Buttress. The climb consisted of several steep steps separated ...
Southern Volcanic district. The peaks of southern Chile, which bear strong resemblance to the mountains of the American Northwest, are mostly isolated ice volcanoes and rocky spires that rise above dense forests. One of the few that had remained w...
Gasherbrum II. On July 26 we reached Base Camp on the Abruzzi Glacier at 16,700 feet. It took us until August 1 to set up camp on the plateau of the Gasherbrum Glacier at 20,000 feet. There our two Austrians, Otto Zöttl and Albert Hosp, had to giv...
Pumori, Attempt and Tragedy. Along with the Czech trekkers, the Czech Trekking Expedition CK Montana consisted of four Slovaks: Dusan Myslivec and Peter Lenco from the town of Nitra, and Pavol Dzurman and Frantisek Miscak from Presov. The goal for...
Mount Whitney, Peewee’s Big Adventure. Joel Richnak and I climbed this fun route which closely follows the northeast buttress of the peak. We roped up about 100 feet right of the east-face route and climbed up and right on flakes to a large detach...