Harvard Mountaineering Club. During the summer of 1953, members of the Club conducted expeditions to British Colombia, Alberta, Peru, and Alaska. In British Columbia Bill Putnam and Harry Francis ran an 18-man climbing camp in the Northern Selkirk...
FALL ON ICE-CAUSED SHOULDER DISLOCATIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Kautz GlacierOn July 25th, the fifth day of a successful expedition via the Kautz Glacier route, a client with International Mountain Guides suffered a shoulder dislocation during a...
Gyachung KangAn alpine mentality in the Himalayaby Marko Prezelj, Planinska zveza Slovenije, Slovenia translated by Ana Percic“Have you noticed the mountain between Cho Oyu and Everest?” Andrej asked me in 1995.“There are several interesting peaks...
Yerupajá—1966Leif-Norman Patterson and David IslesPatterson describes the ascent of the west face.MOUNTAINEERING becomes difficult from the very start if you have a passion for the straightest lines from bottom to top of the steepest faces and yet...
A.A.C.: Cascade Section. Although the Section met only three times during the year, its individual members were busy taking part in mountaineering projects of their own such as an expedition to the Yukon Territory, dedication of mountain huts in t...
Abode of Snow. A History of Himalayan Exploration and Mountaineering, by Kenneth Mason. 372 pages; illustrations and diagrams. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1955. Price, 25 shillings. New York: E. P. Dutton Co., 1955. Price $6.50.No one is better qua...
Pik Lenin, Pamirs. The Russians announce that 200 climbers from Georgia, Latvia, Estonia and Uzbekistan climbed in early August to the summit of Pik Lenin (23,406 feet).
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, IMPROPER CLOTHING, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount BakerOn July 28, 1990, a party of 11 was on three ropes descending the Roman Wall on Mount Baker. At the crest, the team led by Earl Crouse (63...
Canadian Wickersham Wall Ascent of Mount McKinleyHans Gmoser, Alpine Club of CanadaThe Wickersham Wall or the north face of the North Peak of Mount McKinley is one of the world’s highest faces, rising in one sweep from 5600 feet to the 19,470-foot...
ROCKFALL, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Boulder Canyon, Redgarden WallI was on pitch 4 of Rewritten (5.7) on August 1 when the party above me yelled down that the block was loose. I’ve climbed Rewritten before and I knew about the infamous refrigerator bl...
The Everest Years: A Climber’s Life. Chris Bonington. Viking, New York, 1987. 256 pages, 160 photographs in color and black-and-white, maps. $24.95.Chris Bonington has done it again. The Everest years: A Climber’s Life is his tenth book and his th...
To Kiss High Heaven: Nanda Devi, by J. J. Languepin. Translated from the French by Mervyn Savill. London: William Kimber, 1956. 199 pages ; 9 ills.This is an unusual mountaineering book for several reasons: it is emotional as only the French seem ...
A Rampart Wall —Oubliette’s East FaceFred BeckeyOccasionally in mountaineering an unplanned undertaking, spurred by the spice of adventure and a sudden promise of perfect weather, can be as safe as a thoroughly programmed outing. It is bound to be...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite Valley, Swan SlabOn April 27, 1992, at 1430, Karen Hoeppner telephoned NPS dispatch and reported that James Dziadulewicz had fallen while rock climbing on Swan Slab, and was...
Annapurna: 50 Years of Expeditions in the Death Zone. Reinhold Messner. Seattle: Mountaineers Books. 173 pages. $24.95.There are other Annapurnas in men’s lives, as Maurice Herzog wrote, and Reinhold Messner has found many on Annapurna itself in t...
SCOTT DAVIS and I drove into Yosemite early in April, planning to climb a new route on El Cap. Finding that two climbers were already trying the Morning Light Route on the North America Wall, we decided to try an unclimbed line through the Heart o...
California, Yosemite (2)—On April 15, 1955 Don Claunch and George W. Whitmore attempted a direct ascent of Eagle Peak via the east face. Approximately 1,200 feet above camp Four. They were engaged in a traverse. Don led the pitch, placing a piton ...
Cirque Lake Peak, Southwest Spur, Warbonnet Peak Area, Sawtooth Mountains. On August 9 Paul Helmcke, A1 Schmidt and I completed the first ascent of the southwest spur of Cirque Lake Peak. From the Warbonnet Lakes we ascended to within 300 feet of ...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, FALL ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, CLIMBING UNROPED Alaska, Palmer, Knik ValleyIn early April of 1994, Martin Martinez’ climbing partner vanished after a cornice gave way, resulting in a long plunge down the side of a deep couloi...
Mount McKinley, New Routes on the Southwest. In addition to the route described above by Patrick Morrow, our CLOD expedition made several climbs. Jon Jones soloed the West Buttress from 14,200 feet on June 9 and 10. Roger Marshall and Dave Reid cl...