Ama Dablam Attempt and Tragedy. Until April 8, everything was going perfectly. All six members, American Tom Dickey and Canadians Geoff Pow- ter, Peter Roxburgh, Charlie Eckenfelder, Rory McIntosh and I, were fit and well in Camp II atop the Red T...
STRANDED-ROPES STUCK IN CRACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND FOOD, FATIGUECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Fairview DomeAt 2048 on August 13, Matt Ciancio was solo climbing the regular route on Fairview Dome when he heard cries for help. C...
The Gran Sabana holds some of the world’s most majestic big walls, rising dramatically above rainforest. In February 2012 Cory Nauman, Alfredo Zubillaga, and I flew to the region to establish a new route on Upigma Tepui in the Canaima National Par...
First Ascent of Mt. Sangai, EcuadorMt. Sangai in Ecuador is an active volcano, which for many decades has borne the reputation of being one of the most violent in the world. Detached from the main chain of the Andes, it juts out into the Amazon ba...
Deep Play, A Climbers Odyssey from Llanberis to the Big Walls. Paul Pritchard. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1997. 16-page color insert. 192 pages. $22.95.Stories of a Young Climber: An Autobiography. Pat Ament. Two Lights: Boulder, 1996. 262 pages. ...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. A North and South Tirolean expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz had hoped to climb Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast-ridge route. Reinhold Messner and another then wanted to descend the northwest ridge or the north face to compl...
South Ridge of Nez Perce, July 3, 1954. Bob Merriam, Bill Buckingham, and Ed Clark made their approach from Garnet Canyon up through the col between Nez Perce and Shadow Peak. Once the ridge was reached, it was followed straight to the summit.
Summary. Cochamó’s highest number of both international and Chilean climbers visited the area this season, and the number of new routes surpassed the last few combined. The spectrum grew to include not only big walls, short multi-pitch cracks, and...
FALLING ROCK AND SLIP ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST DUE TO INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT AND INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton and Disappointment PeakOn July 28th, rangers made two rescues of injured parties—one from...
Competition Climbing in the C.I.S.The only plastic is in the bootsby Vladimir Shataevtranslated by Sergei NekhaiThere are rumors among older mountaineers that competitive mountaineering in Russia will soon die. At first glance this seems to be tru...
The Mountaineers. The Climbing Committee experienced a lively and active season with reviews of climbing methods, policies, etc. The Committee was composed almost entirely of veteran climbers whose experience contributed significantly to the climb...
West Komorova Glacier, new routes. During the month of July, Scott Decapio (USA) and I (Canada) traveled to Kyrgyzstan and climbed in the remote, military-restricted West Kokshaal Too range in the Tien Shan Mountains on the border with China. I ha...
Dynamic Posture in the MountainsBeckett Howorth, M.D.1WALKING and climbing are simple, primitive motions common to all of us and to many animals. Walking is usually taken for granted, as we have walked since infancy, but it is often done poorly. C...
The alarm clock sounds and our small troop prepares for the big day. The atmospheric pressure was high and we hoped that the beautiful March weather had returned. We departed at 4 a.m. and quickly swallowed the approach. We were light as all the g...
On September 5 Antonin Borovka, Josef Krena, and I climbed the south face of Pik Mayakovsky (Qullai Mayakovskiy), a mountain in the southwest corner of the Tajikistan Pamir, where the north-south Ishkashim Range joins the east-west Shakhdara Range...
Moments of Doubt and Other Mountaineering Writings. David Roberts. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1986. 237 pages. $13.95.In the nearly twenty years since the publication of his first book, The Mountain of My Fear, David Roberts has become one of our ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO HARD HAT, TOO MUCH WEIGHT IN PACKWashington, Mount StewartOn August 4, 1991, Brian Blair (27), Paul Werner (25), Brad Berdoy (32) and I (Bert Daniels, 50+) climbed the North Ridge of Mount Stewart. During the...
HENRY W. KENDALL 1926-1999Henry Kendall died during an underwater photography dive at Wakulla Springs, FL, on February 15. He suffered gastrointestinal bleeding as reported in some news stories, but other factors caused him to lose consciousness a...
Logical ProgressionSometimes the best rock and traditional bolting ethics follow different lines. What’s an enterprising climber to do? Going down on El Gigante.Luke LaeserThe original intention of Peter Baumeister, Dierk Sittner, and myself on ou...
Touching the Void. Joe Simpson. Harper & Row, New York; Jonathan Cape, London, 1988. 174 pages, black and white and color photographs, route diagrams, glossary (US edition). $17.95.Since there is so much to praise in this book, which won the 1...