Rondoy, Cordillera Huayhuash. Tragedy struck the London School of Economics Expedition during the descent of six of its members from the first ascent of Rondoy (19,303 feet) when Peter C. Bebbington, leader, and Graham Sadler fell to their deaths....
Makalu, West Face. A Polish-Brazilian expedition climbed the 8000-foot- high virgin west face of Makalu. Since Wojciech Kurtyka and Alex MacIntyre had twice attempted it, all eyes have been on this face. The team, led by Adam Bilczewski, consisted...
An American Reascends Mont Blanc(George W. Heard, Jr., 1857)The story of the author’s ascent of Mont Blanc in 1855 having already been presented in these pages (A. A. J.,iii, 172), we now print for the first time the account of his second ascent t...
Henry Bradford Washburn, Jr. 1910-2007On January 10, 2007 we lost a visionary, a world-class mountaineer and explorer, a scientist and teacher, and perhaps the most prolific mountain photographer of all time when Brad Washburn passed away at the a...
I’d been eyeballing this line on the 1,500' north face of Mt. Langley for a year, since I noticed that Rest and Be Thankful, the north arête route put up by Alois Smrz and Miguel Carmona 10 years ago, was the only route on the face. It felt ...
Into the Wild. Jon Krakauer. Villard, New York, 1996. 224 pages. $22.00.Into the Wild, belongs to that small handful of books to receive both a full page review in the New York Times Book Review and a review in the pages of the American Alpine Jou...
Mt. Marcus Baker, attempt via Pi Ridge. In a Whittier, Alaska, warehouse of dry-docked boats we studied maps and photos of College Fjord. Rain drummed on the metal roof, and our breath spilled out in plumes of fog. Mik Shain and I were planning a ...
Tetons, Wyoming: (4) Teewinot. Early on 7 August 1948 Dean and Lawrence Worth left Lupine Meadows to climb Teewinot. They had a good out-of-doors background, but little “alpine” experience. They had done a little work with the ice-axe on practice ...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CANTotal Number of Persons Involved USA-CANInjuredUSA-CANKilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 819—...
O. C. Marsh, Pioneer in Paleontology, by Charles Schuchert and Clara M. LeVene. 8 vo., 541 pages, with illustrations. NewHaven: Yale University Press, 1940. Price $5.00.Every Yale man who ever studied geology in the old Peabody Museum knows the na...
Peaks in the Southwest Pacific. In 1977 I climbed 41 peaks in 15 countries in the Pacific. After walking across New Guinea on the 94- kilometer Kokoda Trail, I headed for the highlands, where I soloed three peaks: Mount Hagen (3778 meters or 12,39...
American Alpine Club Research FundThe American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational or historical research and publication related to mountaineering, geology or geography. The trustees of t...
Mt. Burkett, South Face, solo. After waiting in town for three weeks of unsettled spring weather, Leo Smith (Paines Ford, New Zealand) and I (Petersburg, Alaska) flew via helicopter on April 23 to the Baird Glacier below the southwest face of Mt. ...
Au Royaume du Mont-Blanc, by Paul Payot. 305 pages, with 97 illustrations. Bonneville (Haute-Savoie): Imprimerie Plancher, 1950.A year ago, we reviewed the modest text written by Paul Payot to accompany the splendid photographs by G. Tairraz in Ch...
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, ColombiaWalter A. Wood, Jr.Have you ever of a winter’s evening reached up on your library shelf for your favorite atlas, settled down comfortably in a favorite chair and commenced thumbing over the pages with a v...
FALL ON ROCK-RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURECalifornia, High Sierra, Palisades RegionOn May 29, Dan Kipper (54) and Warren Buettner (65) started from Glacier Camp and ascended the Palisade Glacier to the V-Notch. Their objective was to climb the V-notch, as...
Polish, Soviet and Czech Climbs, Pamir. Polish climbers, Janusz Maczka, Tadeusz Preyzner, Jerzy Zajac and Bogdan Strzelski, climbed a new 7250-foot route from July 29 to August 2 on the east face of Ljap-Nazar, which took four bivouacs, two of the...
Beauty is a Rare ThingThe birth of a new route on the northwest face of Denali's west buttress, by Steve HouseIt was under the cover of an Alaskan midnight that Eli and I hurried across the crusty snow of the Peters Glacier to the Father and Son’s...
Iztaccihuatl, El Orgasmo del Cerdo and Oz. El Orgasmo del Cerdo is more than 700 meters high, but only 300 meters are technical, with 200 meters of scrambling and occasional 20- meter fourth-class steps. It rises from the west glacier and was open...
California, North Palisades. During the middle part of March Alan Leeds (21), Wayne Inman (20), and a third man spent several days camping and hiking in the area of Glacier Lodge. On March 20th the third man left to go skiing, and on Thursday the ...