Mount Index, Middle-Main Peak Gully. On January 20, Fred Dunham and I climbed the gully between the Middle and Main Peaks of Mount Index from Lake Serene, south of the South Norwegian Buttress. The climb consisted of several steep steps separated ...
Southern Volcanic district. The peaks of southern Chile, which bear strong resemblance to the mountains of the American Northwest, are mostly isolated ice volcanoes and rocky spires that rise above dense forests. One of the few that had remained w...
Gasherbrum II. On July 26 we reached Base Camp on the Abruzzi Glacier at 16,700 feet. It took us until August 1 to set up camp on the plateau of the Gasherbrum Glacier at 20,000 feet. There our two Austrians, Otto Zöttl and Albert Hosp, had to giv...
Pumori, Attempt and Tragedy. Along with the Czech trekkers, the Czech Trekking Expedition CK Montana consisted of four Slovaks: Dusan Myslivec and Peter Lenco from the town of Nitra, and Pavol Dzurman and Frantisek Miscak from Presov. The goal for...
Mount Whitney, Peewee’s Big Adventure. Joel Richnak and I climbed this fun route which closely follows the northeast buttress of the peak. We roped up about 100 feet right of the east-face route and climbed up and right on flakes to a large detach...
Peaks North of Regal Mountain, Wrangell Mountains. An expedition of the Mountaineering Association of Osaka Prefecture operated in two groups. Group A, which consisted of Yoshihiro Nakai and five other members, landed at Green Hill on the east sid...
Mt. Huntington, The Imperfect Apparition to upper Harvard Route. Twenty-six years ago I skied past the looming north face of Mt. Huntington on my way to attempt a route we’d later call the Isis Face. Perfect symmetry and complex faces always drew ...
CB53. This peak (6096 meters, 20,000 feet) lies east of Mulkila. It was climbed by the Japanese Gumma High School Alpine Club Teachers Association led by Taiku Murakami. From Camp II three groups made ascents on August 7, 8 and 11.
Northern Selkirks. Last August, Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, Bill Lang, Eric Rayson, Doug Tompkins, and I helicoptered to the Cairn Hut in the Northern Selkirks for an eleven-day rest. The weather was so miserable we were forced by sheer boredom on...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Long’s Peak. On 27 August, C. Blake Hiester, Jr. (48), Richard Hiester (18), Pete DiLeo (19), and Nelson Gieseke were attempting Kiener’s Route (4th Class) on the east face of Long’s Peak. They had accomplis...
On April 25,1985, a five member Japanese party, Tokyo Hakuryo Alaska Expedition, flew to the 2130 Kahiltna landing strip for their climb of the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley. On May 1, Yoshikatsu Sumimoto (37) began to suffer symptoms of High Alti...
DEEP-VEIN THROMBOSIS-INADEQUATE MEDICATION SUPPLY Alaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 6, Anatoli Lakteonov of the same Russian team as above was brought by members of his expedition to the NPS Basecamp. Patient was o...
Broad Peak Attempt. Our Spanish expedition consisted of Carlos Soria, Miguel López, Mariano Arrazola, Salvador Rivas, Luis López and me. The route we picked was the west spur, which rises some 11,000 feet and has difficult spots. This was the Poli...
Longs Peak, its story and a climbing guide, by Paul W. Nesbit. Fifth Edition, 65 pages, published by Paul W. Nesbit, 711 Colombia Road, Colorado Springs 4, Colorado. $1.50 postpaid.The fifth edition of the Longs Peak story naturally contains all o...
Nun, North Ridge. A ten-man Indian Army team from the Dogra Regiment, led by Major Prem Chand, set up Base Camp on June 10. After establishing four more camps, on June 19 Harnam Singh, Thakur Dass, Lalit Kumar and Mohammad Amin reached the summit ...
Kangchenjunga Tragedy. Cherie Bremer-Kemp, her husband Dr. Chris Chandler and Nepalese porter Mangal Singh Tamang climbed from 24,000 feet on the north face of Kangchenjunga to 26,000 feet on January 14, 1985. They had hoped to climb to the summit...
A Settemila Metri: Gli Inca, Precursori d’Alpinismo, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1969. 24 pages, 18 illustrations (some in color), 1 map.The notion that mountaineering began with the first ascent of Mont Blanc is no longer acceptable...
Peaks in Gazen Gol, Hindu Raj. From Chitral, which they left on July 13, the RCC II Expedition traveled through Mastuj, Brep, Wasam and Nichaf to reach Base Camp at 13,325 feet at Garpigar in the Gazen Gol, above the Yakhun River. The climbers wer...
Everest Attempt. Xavier Murillo, Pierre and Annie Beghin and I were helicoptered to Namche Bazar on September 21. We were at Base Camp on the 24th. The weather was beautiful. The rest of the international expedition led by Swiss Fredy Graf had mad...
Nevado Juncal. A Spanish expedition from Valencia, five climbers led by Miguel Gómez, ascended the western summit of this great ice mountain in March. This summit is currently held as 5960 meters high (19,554 feet), but local climbers believe that...