E-Gongga Attempt, 1982. Our team comprised Ivan Day, Roy May, Peter Thompson, Dr. Duncan Gray, Stephen Martin and me as leader. We arrived at our roadhead village, Xin Xin, on July 23, 1982. E-Gongga, our main objective after we discovered that Sw...
Felipe Gonzalez Donoso and I, both from Chile, climbed on the east face of Torre Norte in Torres del Paine National Park in January and February 2009. We climbed all new territory, following three main dihedrals and then through a large overhang...
FALL ON ROCKMontana, Glacier National Park, GendarmeOn July 3, rangers from Glacier National Park and wardens from Canada’s Banff National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park cooperated in the rescue of an injured climber. The climber, Denis Two...
Dirgol Zom Ascent and Tragedy. An Italian commercial expedition of 21 climbers led by Gianni Calcagno had as its main objective Tirich Mir West I. To acclimatize, they climbed Dirgol Zom (6878 meters, 22,567 feet). On August 6 the mountain was cli...
Appalachian Mountain Club. The Club carried out its usual activities during 1955: its 363 miles of trails in the White Mountains, on Monad- nock and Katahdin were cleared and new bridges built; its nine huts were open during the tramping season fo...
Cambridge Ecuador Expedition. The Cambridge Ecuador Expedition spent eight weeks in Ecuador between June and August. The geographers, John Russell, John Stone and Peter Hopley, carried out a land-use survey in the vicinity of Baños, a small town s...
Karavshin Region, Various Ascents. On August 5, Guy Edwards, Hermien Freriksen, Brian Webster, Kevin Christakos and I (Canada) flew from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, to Osh in the west, where our week-long epic approach to the mountains beg...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Tuolumne Meadows, Cathedral PeakOn July 1 Shannon (29) and Margie (28) climbed part of Matthes Crest and decided to finish the day with an ascent of the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Pe...
Mazamas. The Mazamas, Portland, Oregon, mountaineering club since 1894, carry out a climbing school each spring as a public service as well as for in-service training. Surrounded by snow-and glacier-peaks as well as many rock-climbing areas that b...
Alaska, Mount Sanford. On May 12th Bjarne Holm (age 22), Jurgen Kienle (34), Earl Redman (24), and Jack Solomon (20) were flown to the 7,000-foot level of Mount Sanford’s Sheep Glacier, and that same afternoon they started up the glacier. They had...
RAPPEL SLING ANCHOR UNTIED, FALL ON ROCK Quebec, Mount CesaireOn July 2, 1992, a group of 15 from the Monteregie Youth Center in Chambly, including four group leaders, plus two instructors from the Quebec Mountaineering Federation (FQM), went out ...
Torre Norte del Paine, East Face. From February 1 to 18, François Bernard, Antoine Cayrol, Tierry Petitjean, Laurent Fabre and I opened a new route on the east face of the Torre Norte del Paine. There was no previous route on the 800-meter-high gr...
Shishapangma, West Summit, New Route. Eduard Sánchez and I left Kathmandu on October 4, headed for the Langtang Valley. Accompanied by three Sherpas, we trekked until the last town. We climbed a mountain called Naya Kanja (5800m) to acclimate. Som...
CAC Sar, first ascent; Corean Sar, first ascent to west summit; Khani Basa Sar, attempt. A four-man expedition from the Corean Alpine Club led by Yoo Hak-jae spent July 18 to August 30 in Pakistan; the other climbers were Kim Dong-kyu, Kang Tae-wo...
Tengi Ragi Tau, first ascent of newly opened peak. In the spring of 2000 I saw Tengi Ragi Tau (6943m) for the first time while we climbed Parchamo (6,279m). It strongly attracted my attention, but it was a forbidden peak according to our guide. In...
NICOLAS Jaeger said that he hoped his expedition to the Cordillera Blanca would not be “banal”. The expedition accomplished eight new routes, repeated five major routes, soloed four new routes, repeated two routes solo, made a hang-glider descen...
From August 2–19, 2009, David Lim, Mohd Rozani bin Maarof, and Grant Rawlinson, forming the “Spirit of Singapore Climbing Expedition,” traveled to an area loosely known as the Adyrtor Mountains, just north of the famous Inylchek glaciers. We drove...
Shingu Charpa (Great Tower, 5,600m, north ridge attempt. Dave Edgar and I traveled to the Nangma Valley this past summer with our eyes set on the impressive unclimbed north ridge of Shingu (Shjingu) Charpa, east of the small village of Kande. The ...
South Ridge of Mount HuntingtonJeff ThomasTHE SOUTH RIDGE OF Mount Huntington is “not so much a ridge as five separate serrated peaks, each increasingly higher.” * To climb the entire ridge was enticing, but it would be terribly difficult. There w...
SUP ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, OFF-ROUTE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot, Northwest CouloirOn July 11, Sam Russell (22) fell approximately 200 vertical feet down the Northwest Couloir of Teewinot,...