Mount Booker, Northeast Face. Unless you have climbed in Washington’s Cascade Pass area you have undoubtedly never heard of Mount Booker as it is greatly overshadowed in height by its neighboring peaks and the only routes on it had previously been...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley National Park, Fairview DomeOn August 20, 1994, at 2100, climber Ray Pichette reported to Tuolumne Meadows rangers that he had passed a slow party of two o...
Glacier Point Apron, Hoser’s Highway. Eric Sanford, Greg Davis, Scott Woodruff and I on April 20 put up a new route on Glacier Point Apron, starting between Patio and Goodrich Pinnacle. We followed the obvious water groove to the Oasis. Ten pitche...
Kinnaur, Naufragi. From August 15 to September 8 I soloed a big wall south of the Kinnaur-Kailash Range. The wall lies roughly northeast of Sangla in the Baspa Valley, on the southern flanks of Raldang (5,499m). Before I left for India, the only i...
Washington, Cashmere Crags—On May 31, Ray Riggs (52) a member of the Mountaineers and a veteran climber slipped and fell to his death while descending the steep rocky cliffs above Nada Lake in the Cashmere Crags. He was a member of a six man party...
Sarapo. The Japanese Yamanoko (Children of the Mountains) Alpine Club expedition made the second ascent of Sarapo (20,155 feet) on July 6. (First ascent by Austrians Bachmann and Lugmayer in 1954.) Takayuki Musha and Hiroshi Nakatsubo made the asc...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. There is no restriction on the numbers of members an expedition may have on the Tibetan side of Everest. A commercial British party organized by Out There Trekking led by Jonathan Tinker consisted of 19 climbing members...
Talkeetna Range. The year’s noteworthy climbs in this accessible range began on March 3 when my wife Grace and I with Dub Bludworth made the first ascent of Eska Mountain (5680 feet) by its southwest ridge. On July 6 Bob Spurr did better than on t...
Mount Everest, Pre-monsoon. No clients and just one Sherpa summitted from the two commercial expeditions on the Nepalese side. The only other team from Nepal saw two members and three Sherpas summit. Kami Rita Sherpa plunged to his death while cli...
Mazamas. In 1951 the Mazamas, of Portland, held their annual outing from July 22nd to August 5th at Horseshoe Lake in the Wallowa Mountains of northeastern Oregon. This wilderness area had been the site of three previous Mazama outings (1918, 1931...
Center Route on Absolutely Free Pinnacle: Shark’s Back. On August 7, Mark Klemens, Sheldon Smith, and I put up this route located on the Lower Brother. The climbing was marked by a little of everything, but mainly some very hard jam-cracks. A few ...
Spire Point, Northwest Face. On July 29 Gary Brill, my brother Carl and I climbed this face. An approach was made from a camp on Itswoot Ridge via a prominent col west of the Spire Point massif. Begin by taking a line up the middle of the northwes...
Block Tower, Trout Fishing in America. Guy Edwards and I spent seven days in early September in the remote and practically untouched Leaning Tower group, west of the town of Kimberly and south of the popular Bugaboos. Our first day was spent recon...
Tirich Mir East. In 1950 Arne Naess headed an expedition which climbed to the highest summit of Tirich Mir (25,263 feet). This year he returned with his fellow Norwegians, Dr. Kjell Friis-Baastad, Ralph Höibakk, Anders Opdal and Per Vigerust. The ...
An Italian expedition to Annapurna III was led by Francesco Santon with Renato Cepparo as deputy leader. There were 27 members, some of whom were trekkers, but they claimed that 19 would have been capable of reaching the summit. They climbed the w...
Alpamayo, Southwest Face. Rudolf Riedl and I set up our Base Camp at Jancarurishcocha in the Quebrada Alpamayo on July 11 along with our friends from the Attergau expedition. (Austrians Karl Eichhorn, Horst Pelska and Franz Schaden of that group c...
Kitaraju Alpamayo and Loyaqjirka. Making our approach via the Quebrada Santa Cruz, a leisurely two-day walk from Cashapampa brought us to Base Camp on June 28 at 14,500 feet. Camp I was established at 16,250 feet at the edge of the glacier on the ...
Chullunko, 1981. On July 29, 1981 Peter Getzels and I established Base Camp just below the Palcay Pass at approximately 15,000 feet. The following day we climbed Chullunko (17,127 feet) by the rock ridge which runs virtually from the summit back t...
Devil’s Castle, Evil Eye In September Glen Henshaw, Jonathan Smoot, and I climbed a new route on the 800-foot north face of Devil’s Castle in the Wasatch Mountains. Beginning at the lowest point of the face we ascended indistinct cracks 120 feet r...
Ascents of Angel Peak, The Point of Damocles, and Whitehorse Peak. The 10-member team of Ken Findlay, Philip Kendon, Ashley Hardwell, Paul Hudson, Stuart Gallagher, Ken Mosley, David Suddes, Graham Treacher, John Hudson and Dave Penlington left th...