Mount Everest, Nepal Pre-Monsoon Summary. 6 Nepalese led by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, Summit reached on April 22 by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and Sherpas Sonam Tshering, Dawa Tashi, Lhakpa Nuru, Pemba Nuru, Nawang Thile. Pasang Lhamu and Sonam Tshe...
Northwest climbers have a backyard of rugged, imposing mountains, ranging from extinct volcanos, Rainier and Baker, to the great rock monoliths of Mount Index, Mount Baring, and the Pickets. Half a mile north of the international border, in the Ch...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. This has been a progressive and prosperous year for the Central Rockies Section. The 1997 Section Banquet got our Section going financially and helped carry us into the new year. The Section also had several events to...
A Note on Climbing in New Mexico[The following note was communicated to the writer by Kenneth Segerstrom of the United States Geological Survey.]“The highest New Mexican range offers no rock climbing to speak of. The Sangre de Cristos lose their r...
BRADLEY BALDWIN GILMAN 1904–1987Bradley Gilman, a long-time member of the Club’s hierarchy, served it as councilor, secretary, treasurer and president over a period of four decades. He was descended from two primeval New England families, the Gilm...
HAR Pinnacle, Corn Beef Chili Pasta à la Wahab; Pt. 5,500m, G-Strings and Plastic Boots, not to summit; Latok I, north face and north ridge, attempts; Sus Galinas. On August 12 Louis- Philippe Menard and I set up base camp on the Choktoi Glacier, ...
INADEQUATE ANCHOR, FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FATIGUE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESIdaho, City of RocksOn March 25, 1992, Dan Maynes (24) and I (23) were climbing at City of Rocks National Reserve in Southern Idaho. We had both just graduated in Mechanica...
The Mazamas. Through its Climbing Committee, chaired by Don Erickson, The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, offers comprehensive mountaineering education from beginning through advanced levels; organizes summer, winter, and rock-climbing schedules; sel...
American Entries in the Travellers’ Book of the Grands Mulets, 1861-75J. Monroe ThoringtonIN 1943 the American Alpine Club published the writer’s Early American Ascents in the Alps, which recorded many ascents of Mont Blanc in the 19th century. Th...
Puncak Jaya, new route and first snowboard descent; Carstensz Pyramid, new route. On April 23, Corey Rich, Rob Milne, and I climbed Puncak Jaya by a new and interesting glacier route. Then I made the first snowboard descent of that peak, riding do...
McKinley’s South Face- Alpine StyleAlex BertulisTHE drawback of climbing most major high-altitude mountains is that they require siege tactics. Ropes are fixed and camp gear is hauled along. More food is required because more time is spent ferryin...
ALEXANDER ADDISON McCOUBREY1885-1942Such a fine notice has appeared on the life of our late member, A. A. McCoubrey, in the Canadian Alpine Journal that it seems best now only to supplement what has already appeared there.Mac had been a member of ...
EXPOSURE, BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, DARKNESS, INEXPERIENCE—California, Yosemite Valley. The following report was given by Larry Day (26) and Donald Evans (23) following their rescue, during which Jack Dorn (30)—a member of the Yosemite Re...
Domes at Courtright Reservoir. During the spring of 1978 I made my first visit to the Courtright Reservoir area on the west side of the Sierra Nevada. One needs the help of someone who has spent hours driving the tiny, winding roads that guard it....
Long’s Peak, The Diamond, Smash the State. Between May 15-20, Ken Sauls and I made the second ascent of Smash the State (VI- 5.8 A5) on the Diamond of Long’s Peak. Jim Beyer made the first ascent of this route in April of 1988, solo. Doug Hall and...
Kara Kunlun, Dolkun Muztag (6,355m), first ascent. The student mountaineering party of Tokai University Alpine Club was the first to climb an unexplored peak (6,355m) in the Kara Kunlun mountains at the westernmost end of the Xinjiang Kunlun in Ch...
Lhotse south face, winter ascent (not to summit). On December 27, our six-member expedition from the Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club finally climbed the south face of Lhotse (8,516m), though the successful party was not able to continue ...
LIONEL TERRAY 1921-1965Most of his public life is so well known through his book "The Conquerors of the Useless” that it would be pointless to repeat it here. Lionel was, to those who knew him well, a very vulnerable man in that he was, contrary t...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall-East Rib. On March 17 through March 22 Craig Eilers, Dale Farnham, Matt Christensen and I successfully completed a winter ascent of Mount Rainier’s famed Willis Wall, via the east rib. A bivouac was made two-thirds of th...
Alan Nelson 1959-2007On December 23, 2007 the climbing community lost one of its most dedicated, prolific, and energetic members. After a hard-fought and stunningly brief struggle, Alan Nelson succumbed to a gastrointestinal cancer. His sister Kat...