Canterbury region, summary. Showing that there are still plenty of new things to do in the Southern Alps, if you are motivated, Guy McKinnon ventured alone onto the northwest face of Malcolm Peak (2,512m) to make the first ascent of this 500m grey...

Taulliraju, Entire Southeast Ridge. Mark Miller and I made three unsuccessful attempts on the south face of Taulliraju in late May and early June which ended in bad weather. We decided to try the entire southeast ridge instead. On June 7 we approa...

Tetons. Most of the ambitious activity in the Tetons during the past summer was centered on the classic routes rather than in searching for new routes. For instance, both the north face of the Grand Teton and the south ridge of Mount Moran were as...

Pico Bolívar, First All Women Ascent. An all-women local team attempted to climb the highest mountain in Venezuela but failed the first time due to unseasonal weather. The second attempt was successful and took place on April 27 at the end of the ...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF “FRIEND”New York, ShawangunksA man (24) was seconding on Never Never Land (5.10) when he fell and fractured his fibula. The ten-meter fall resulted from the fact that a Friend placed directionally pulled out. (Source: Brad...

Aconcagua. Aconcagua was the goal of a Polish group led by Andrzej Gardas. Of the 14 members, 13 reached the summit and eight got there twice. Piotr Konopka and Zbigniew Winiarski climbed the French route on the south face in just two days. Anna S...

Khan Yailik, First Ascent. Mt. Khan Yailik rises to 6744 meters in the western part of the Kun Lun mountain region, about 800 kilometers from Kashgar along the Xingiang-Tibet road near the border of India. The mountain name, Khan Yailik, means “Ki...

Garmo: A Russian expedition under the leadership of Nikolai Vasilevich Krylenko returned late in October after an unsuccessful attempt to climb this, the highest peak in the Russian dominions. They were unable to find a feasible route for a close ...

Incahuasi Region, Various Ascents. On the last days of January, a truck left the members of the Argentine-Czech Incahuasi Expedition in base camp (4400m) on the slopes of mighty Volcan Incahuasi (6638m) on the Argentine-Chilean border. Czech membe...

FALL ON SNOWBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn August 1, 1986, Ken Nelson (42) and Mark Strother (28) set out with two other climbers to ascend the south-west face of Mount Robson (3954 meters). The two others turned back on August ...

Kharchakund, Northeast Face. After a three-day approach, we set up camp at the foot of Kharchakund’s north ridge. Our goal was to make the second ascent of the peak by a new route, the northeast face. The peak was first ascended by Japanese in 198...

Tukche. Four Koreans led by Shin Ho-Jim climbed the normal north ridge route of Tukche. Leom Doo-Hee and Yang Jeong-Sawn and Sherpas Ang Dorje and Gelbu went to the summit (6920 meters, 23,704 feet) on September 4.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club...

Unclimbed Peaks in the Chigmit Mountains. On July 7, Cliff Hudson’s son from Talkeetna flew Martin Göggelmann and me to the south side of Chakachamna Lake for a week’s climbing. We set up Base Camp on a sandbank near the lake, amid bear tracks. Th...

Bhrigupanth, West Buttress. In September, I led an expedition to the Kedar valley of the Gangotri region. From September 18 to 20, Zbigniew Kroskiewicz and I made a new route, the west buttress of Bhrigupanth (6772 meters, 22,220 feet). The route ...

A.A.C., Cascade Section. In May the Section hosted the Board of Directors meeting in Seattle. This was followed by a potluck dinner and Diana Dailey’s slides of the American Women’s Expedition to Dhaulagiri I. In August we helped sponsor a recepti...

Toothrock. On October 23, Jason Keith and I completed the third ascent of 2000-foot Toothrock by a new route on the north face, which we call “Matter in Motion” (V+, 5.9+, A3+). It is in the Vermillion Cliffs near Lee’s Ferry. It is primarily diff...

Makalu Attempt. George Austiguy, Dick Jackson, Brad Johnson, Scott Thor- bum, Dave Wright and I had hoped to climb the Japanese Ridge on the northwest face of Makalu. We established Base Camp on September 17 at 5400 meters and set a staging camp a...

Blamann, north face, Lost and Found. From August 4 to 8 Finnish climbers Jarkko- Juhani Henttonen, Johannes Kärkkäinen, and Kauri Kurki climbed a new route between Atlantis (400m, 1990) and Bongo Bar (400m, 1998). Lost and Found is seven pitches l...

Fees Collected for Preparation of the Route through the Khumbu Icefall. Much of the work of making the route through the Khumbu Icefall was performed by the Sherpas employed by Mrs. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa and a Spanish expedition. For their work in t...

Le jeu de la montagne et du hasard. Anne Sauvy. Arthaud-Montalba, Paris, 1985. 16 short stories. 274 pages. 75 French francs.When I was given this delightful collection of mountain short stories, I had no real intention to read it all. I politely ...