ROCK BROKE LOOSE, FALL ON ROCK, ICE TOOLS AND PITONS PULLED OUT Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn March 11,1993, around 1000, ranger Renny Jackson received a report of a climbing accident on the Grand Teton. According to the report...
Khan Tengri and Pik Goodmana, Tien Shan. During the summer of 1990, the second American-Lithuanian mountaineering exchange took place. At the invitation of the Lithuanian Mountaineering Federation, four Americans arrived in Vilnius on July 19. Wit...
Park’s Korean Route. At 3 p.m. on May 20, Jin Jan-chang, Kang Ki-seok, Shin Dong-min, and Park Young-seok stepped onto the summit of Everest, having completed a new route up the southwest face. This is the first new route climbed by Koreans on the...
RAPPEL FAILURE—Vermont, Washbowl Ledges. Douglas S. Parker (18) of Moscow, Vermont, fell to his death from the Washbowl Ledges near Chapel Pond on October 27.Though the cliff stood only a half mile from Route 73, rugged terrain made the evacuation...
Western Nyanchen Thanglha, Golden Dragon, White Pagoda, Yarlung Ri, previously unreported first ascents. In September 2000 Erich Gatt, Hansjoerg Pfaundler, and myself, Christian Haas, visited the Nyanchen Thanglha ca 80km north of Lhasa. Here, in ...
Warbonnet Peak. In July Dave Jenkins and I accidentally did a new route on the east face of Warbonnet Peak. Thinking we were following the Lowe-Fowler line, Black Elk, we inadvertently traversed right with a pendulum where we should have headed le...
Colorado, Pueblo Mountain Park, Devil’s Canyon—On June 7, HarryRosenberg (30), Dick LeSage (30), and Jerry Lathrop (25) started climbing one of the cliffs in Devil’s Canyon about 11:00 a.m. Wilbur Arnold (45) having been delayed, joined the party ...
Nuptse Attempt by Canadians. Jim Elzinga, leader, Rusty Baillie, Dwayne Congdon, John Laughlan, Dave McNab, Lauri Skreslet and I attempted Nuptse from the south. A high avalanche hazard kept us from trying the original south-face route of Boningto...
Rinrijirca, South Face, 1982. On May 28, 1982 Italian Alberto Paleari climbed a direct route in the center of the south face of Rinrijirca (5810 meters, 19,062 feet) in seven hours from a camp at 16,725 feet. The lower part was mixed climbing and ...
Disappointment Peak, South Ridges. By the end of the summer of 1958 there were more than a dozen different routes on the spectacular ridges which, from the south edge of the summit plateau of Disappointment Peak, plunge at a very high angle into G...
Pico del Castillo, Southwest Ridge. Our party of six made on December 26 the first Venezuelan ascent of this very fine peak located east of the divide in the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. We used a combination of routes to reach the southwest ridge, whi...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKNew York, ShawangunksHugh Herr (18) was trying a new 5.11 route on Sky Top Route when a hold broke. He fell three meters to the ground and had to be taken to the factory, as both his artificial legs were in need of repair...
Andes: The German expedition to the Cordillera Blanca of Peru has resulted in, beside the scientific and mapping work accomplished, the first ascent of the south (highest) peak of Huascaran (22,182 ft.), on July 20, 1932, by Dr. Bernard, Phillip B...
Shivling Attempts. During the spring Calvin Torrans, Edward Cooper, Alan Currans and I attempted two routes on Shivling. We first tried the unclimbed northwest face, spending five days on it before retreating because of persistent heavy snowfall. ...
Gurja Himal Ascent and Tragedy. Our joint Rumanian-Nepalese expedition, which hoped to climb Gurja Himal by the south face and southeast ridge over Komban (6567 meters), set up Base Camp at 3100 meters on the Tareja Khola on April 26. We reconnoit...
Bandarpunch Group. Indian climbers were active in the Bandarpunch group. Kala Nag (6387 meters, 20,956 feet) was climbed by Shyamar Krishna Karag’s and by Sanat Ghosh’s expeditions. Bandarpunch I (6302 meters, 20,676 feet) was ascended by climbers...
Baruntse Attempts. There was an unsuccessful British attempt on the southeast ridge of Baruntse led by Andrew Wigley. They reached 6860 meters on May 3. Spaniards led by Luis Miguel Montero got to 7100 meters on the same route, apparently less tha...
Torre Norte del Paine, Corn Wall. After a failed attempt on the east face of Cerro Torre, we returned to the Paine Towers. On February 15, Leigh McGinley, Celia Bull and I ascended a new route on the southwest spur of the west face of the Torre No...
Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. We were Javier Bermejo, Xabier Erro, Pili Ganuza de Goñi, Javier Garayoa, José Miguel Goñi, Anxton Ibarguren, Agustín Pagola and I. Having left Dassu on June 26, we got to Base Camp on July 5. Contrary to predicti...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. A seven-man expedition left Cambridge University in June for the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, a range of mountains in the Cordillera Oriental, 200 miles northeast of Bogotá. Our aim was to split up on arrival at a base into thre...