Alpamayo Norte. Mel and Becci Knapp, Roy and Joan Fray, Brock Wagstaff, Karl Gerdes and I arrived at the Pucacocha hut around June 1.The place was an incredible mess. The debris yielded rusty carabiners, cigarette cartons, Courvoisier bottles: cli...
HACE, WEATHERCalifornia, Mount Shasta WildernessTwo experienced 26-year-old climbers (Mr. Thomas and Mr. Tom Bennett) were spending the weekend on the north side of Mount Shasta (very rarely used at this time of the year due to snow covered road a...
JAMES GRAFTON ROGERS 1883–1971The death of James Grafton Rogers on April 23, 1971 marked the close of perhaps the most varied career of any native of Colorado, a career which extended its influence, however, far beyond the limits of that state — n...
Southwestern Pamir, Pik Tb GU (6,142m), northwest flank and north ridge; Pik Engels (6,510m), northeast face and north ridge, attempt. Peter Poljanic and I arrived in Dushanbe on July 30, with the aim of climbing Pik Karl Marx (6,723m) and/or Pik ...
Courthouse Pasture. Jason Keith and Hollis McCord climbed to the summit of the Merrimac Butte by a new route up the east face (5.10 A1).
Trango Tower (6,251m), alpine style ascent of Eternal Flame (though not to summit). In early July Eternal Flame also received a very spirited attempt to free climb it by the French couple, Antoine and Sandrine de Choudens. This pair wanted to clim...
Tyrolean Journal, by C. Henry Warren. 8vo., 190 pages, with 33 photo-illustrations, chiefly by the author. London: Robert Hale, Ltd., 1954. Price, 16/—.Warren is the author of country books, of which England Is a Village is the best known. He has ...
Looking through descriptions of routes on Khan Tengri, we two were surprised to find that the southeast ridge, the longest of the four ridges of this fine pyramid, was still unclimbed. Had no one tried this logical, alluring line? The ridge had...
In the Footsteps of VikingsExploratory climbing in southeast GreenlandMark RicheySometimes, the best adventures in climbing begin with the least amount of planning. Such was the case with our trip to Greenland. Our plan was simple: a small group o...
Living on the Edge. Cherie Bremer-Kamp. Peregrine Smith Books, Layton, Utah, 1987. 213 pages, 33 color photos, 6 maps and diagrams. $19.95.There are risks in writing about climbing that mirror the risks of the sport itself. The intensely personal ...
A Ribbon on Edge — Deborah’s East RidgeRoger Mear, Alpine Climbing GroupTHERE ARE TWO mountains in Alaska that have always seemed to me like sisters—Huntington and Deborah. A cold flame, bright and sharp, Huntington has been described as ‘Alaska’s...
Kun. Ten members of a French commercial group led by guides J. Dubrus- son, F. Eynac and D. Petraud climbed Kun (7087 meters, 23,285 feet) by its east ridge. Thirteen Spaniards, led by Karmel Leizaola, arrived at Base Camp on August 11. Eleven of ...
ANDRÉ COURN AND, M. D.1895-1988André Coumand, M.D. died on February 19, 1988 at the age of 92. André had a long and distinguished career as a medical scientist, physician and as a humanist with broad interests in art, music and philosophy. He was ...
Peak 5,750m, the Outside Penguin; Latok II attempts. Backed by the AAC’s Lyman Spitzer Award and Mountain Equipment Co-op, our team had chosen as an objective the unclimbed feature under and southwest of Latok II (7,103m). We facetiously named thi...
The Golden Fleece, First Ascent. The Golden Fleece, otherwise known as Birdman Falls, is a formation of ice that has attracted lots of attention from the minuscule number of people who have had the luxury of seeing it. Tucked into a tight little d...
Washington, Mt. Rainier—On November 30, Lowell Linn (23) hiked on snowshoes with his companion, Harry Holcomb (26), above Paradise on the south side of Mt. Rainier. The two left Paradise, 5,500 feet, at 7:30 A.M. and reached a point a little above...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, POOR POSITIONColorado, San Juans, Engineer MountainOn April 2, David Ganley (32), Fred Hutt (24), and Mike Seeberg (30) left Coal Bank Pass parking lot at 0700 on snowshoes to climb Engineer Mountain via the North Ridge. They lef...
Changuch (6,322m), northwest ridge from south. Before 2009 Changuch was attempted unsuccessfully three times from the south, via the Pindari Glacier. In that year Martin Moran’s British expedition approached from the Lawan Valley to the north and ...
EXPOSURE, FATIGUE, FROSTBITEAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn a winter ascent of the Muldrow Glacier route, Fred Barstad (29) had frostbitten his toes about 16,000 feet at the end of a hard day while building a snow cave. The team was using double boots with...
Huandoy Sur, Northeast Face, 1979. A very direct route on this face was done solo by the Frenchman Yves Astier in 1979.