FALL ON ROCK, ROPE SEVERED BY FALLING ROCKAlaska, Portage GlacierI am sorry to report the death of Steve Garvey (40) on August 13. He was well known, experienced, and a much-liked Alaskan climber. Garvey, as he was known by all, was a friend of AM...
Gasherbrum II, north face, first north-south crossing of the mountain, alpine style. We left Italy for Pakistan in early June, reaching Islamabad and then Kashgar, China in the following days. After waiting two days for the trucks coming from the ...
Incredible Hulk, free activity. True to form, Dave Nettle called me in the midst of a heavy Sierra winter. As I often hear from him, “I just want to put a bug in your ear.” But no bug was needed. When Dave calls, people listen.We cruised snow most...
Crescent Mountain, North Ridge. Although of easy access from the Twisp River Road, Crescent Mountain has seen little activity. On a lazy afternoon on June 15, my brother Carl and I climbed its north ridge. We traversed the north-west basin to gain...
Canadian Rockies, Various Activity. For the past few years, most of the new multipitch rock routes to go up in the Front Ranges have been in the Ghost River area. Owing to its secluded location, this region has not been developed as extensively as...
Vera Komarkova 1942-2005Vera Komarkova, a strong and courageous mountaineer, talented and respected plant ecologist and teacher, fiercely dedicated mother of two sons, and a loyal and caring friend, died of complications of breast cancer treatment...
Glacier National Park, Mt. Siyeh, north face, new route. After being deemed “inadmissible to Canada” by a guy with a badge who surely fantasizes about playing bad cop in a cheap movie, Justin Woods and I turned around and drove south. Maybe they w...
Peak 9,968' (?), west ridge. On May 5, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew Drew Lovell and me into the Martin River Glacier at the western end of the Bagley Icefield. We landed on the glacier at 4,200', just south of the impressive 7,000' sout...
Kun. From July 18 to August 15 I took part in a Hauser Excursions expedition led by Martin Lutterjohann. After a difficult rubber-boat crossing of the flood-waters of the Suru River, we set up Base Camp at 14,750 feet on the left bank of the Shafa...
J. Alex Maxwell 1910–2007J. Alex Maxwell, better known as “Lex,” was born in Yakima on July 26, 1910 to Mary Murphy Maxwell and Alexander James Maxwell.His first job after graduating from the local community college was as a bookkeeper in a local ...
Due to lower elevations and poor rock quality, the Brooks Range does not attract a lot of attention. Doug Piehl and I were drawn to the range’s remoteness and lack of other climbers. We focused on an area on the northern edge of the Endicott Mo...
Mt. Combatant, The Incisor, The Smoke Show. John Furneaux, Paul Bride, and I made base camp on a protected ledge 500 feet above the Tiedemann Glacier on Day Trip Ridge, directly below the unclimbed 2,000' south face of the Incisor. We fixed five p...
FALLING ROCK, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESSWyoming, Devils TowerAt 0800 August 19, 1982, three climbers, Bob Larr (32), Roger Raspen (37) and Steve Crawford (18) arrived at the base of the Durrance II route on Devils Tower. They had arrived the...
The Ascent of Istor-o-NalJOSEPH E. MURPHY, JR.The Princeton Mountaineering Club Expedition to Chitral, West Pakistan, and the ascent of Istor-o-Nal resulted from Thomas A. Mutch’s facetious suggestion that he and I make our next trip to the Himala...
LOST CLIMBERS–WEATHER, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Silver PeakOn September 25, a party of two males attempted to climb Silver Peak on a very wet, foggy day. Part way up the ridge from Lake Annette, they started to get into the open ...
Huntington, West Face Attempt. In April and May, William Kito and I, both recipients of the American Alpine Club Climbing Fellowship grants, flew to the Tokositna Glacier below the west face of Huntington. Our objective was the unclimbed rock butt...
Valle Bader, Note on Naming. There has been some confusion in the past few years regarding the naming of two distinct valleys within the Torres del Paine National Park, both of which have been called Pingo (“wild horse”) Valley. The original valle...
Gunnbjornsfield region first ascents. A Royal Navy expedition comprising Tim Brookes, Guy Buckingham, Belinda Fear, A1 Grieg, Derek Scott, and Barrie Whitehead traveled 160km and climbed 14 peaks in the Watkins Mountains. These included Greenland’...
Saser Kangri Yellow Goddess of the Karakoram. Y. C. Khanna. The Chairman, Central Family Welfare Committee of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, New Delhi, 1980. 144 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, map. Rupees 100.In these days of solo ...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite ValleyAbout 0810 on July 2, 1986, Steve Snyder, a climber near the scene of the injury, contacted Ranger Sherwood at the Little Yosemite Valley Ranger Station with a report of an injured climber at th...