Mount Stuart, Direct North Buttress. Although the north buttress of Mount Stuart was first climbed in 1956 from an ice couloir extending up from the Stuart Glacier, the lower half of the 2000-foot buttress had never been ascended at all. Not knowi...
FALL ON ROCK AND SNOW, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE Washington, Mt. St. HelensRick Fredrickson (18) was blown off the top of Dogs Head on Mt. St. Helens between the elevation of 7,300–7,400 feet and fell or slid down the snow all the way to the 6,200...
The South Face of JirishancaDEAN CALDWELLJIRISHANCA didn’t like our coming up today; the storm began about noon. It seems the season is over, but the end of July is too early — we should still be able to plan on a period of good weather for the wa...
STRANDED-EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGNevada, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Juniper CanyonOn April 12, S. L., A. M., G. W. and C. J., all visiting from Canada, set off to climb Black Dagger (III, 5.7) in Juniper Canyon. Th...
Everest, deaths during the spring. “I imagine you guys are surprised to see me here” were Australian Lincoln Hall’s words upon being discovered miraculously alive on the north side of Everest on May 26, after having been reported dead the day befo...
Squamish Chief, Direct West Face. The curiosity of Vancouver climbers about knee-deep tracks in the January snow to the base of the sheer west face of the Squamish Chief turned to amazement when they saw ropes hanging on the lower part of the 1600...
California, Yosemite Park, El Capitan. On May 15 Jim Baldwin (24) and Ed Cooper were in the early stages of the climb of the then-unclimbed direct S.W. face on El Capitan (climb successfully completed in November, 1962). Because of the severity of...
Tullujuto, Tunshu Group, Cordillera Central. After our arrival by truck at Azulcocha up the long road from Pachacayo and Canchayllo on June 30, the next day we set out on a several-pronged reconnaissance. What attracted us most was the highest pai...
East Fuller Butte, Walking with Walt. After three false starts over 18 months, two due to 110°+ summer temperatures and one due to a “10% chance of light, scattered showers” that turned into a blizzard in September 2002, Sigrid and Lynnea Anderson...
Run For Cover—Trango AdventureGreg ChildTrango TOWER, OR NAMELESS Tower as it is also called, is a strangely symmetrical 20,470-foot granite shaft of the Baltoro Mustagh. I first read about it in 1976 when Mountain published Martin Boysen’s accoun...
Johannesburg Mountain, The CK Route. On August 27, we climbed a new direct line on the 4,600' north face. In 2002 we had retreated after underestimating steep, unprotectable rock sections.The route begins in a vertical cleft with a waterfall, midw...
PULMONARY EDEMA, CEREBRAL EDEMA, SLIP ON SNOW,DESCENDING UNROPEDAlaska, Mount ForakerGlen Randall (26) and Pete Metcalf flew into Kantishna on April 17, 1983, to begin their approach to the North Face of Mount Foraker. Their intended route would t...
Northern Staunings Alps. Our expedition was not a mountaineering one. It comprised twelve members and four research groups, two of geology, one of zoology and one of botany, each led by a lecturer from Leicester, Cambridge, Oxford and Cardiff univ...
Twilight Pillar, Clyde Peak, Winter Ascent. In February, David Wilson and I made the first winter ascent of this classic Grade III summer route. A 5.7 pitch directly off the snowfield provided us with the hardest climbing, since it was diagonal an...
California Mount St. Elias Expedition. Arriving at Kluane Lake on June 9, Bill Feldmann, David Gladstone, Richard May, Charles Ringrose, Timothy Tracey and I had by June 13 been landed by ski-wheel plane at a Base Camp at the junction of the Jeann...
Manaslu, East Ridge Attempt. Our Argentine expedition was composed of Guillermo Vieiro, leader, Dr. Ernesto Fiorentini, Jorge Jassen, Hector Cuiñas, Edgardo Porcellana, Gerardo Maioli, Marcelo Aguilas, Pablo Castiarena, Avo Nakachian, Ulises Vital...
The Mountain World 1966/67, edited by Malcolm Barnes and Hans Richard Müller with translations by Hugh Merrick, for The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. London: George Allen and Unwin Ltd; Chicago: Rand McNally and Co. 224 pages, 56 plates, m...
Arrigetch Peaks, Brooks Range, Alaska — A group of ten from Hampshire College spent three weeks from June 9 through July 1 in the cirque where the 1964 party made its Base Camp, the first valley south of Arrigetch Creek. Besides the climb of Shot ...
Dharamsura, 1979. A Japanese expedition from Toyota climbed Dharamsura (22,205 feet, 6446 meters) from the Bara Shigri Glacier. All members reached the summit on September 10, 1979. They were Kazunori Tanaka, leader, Osamu Kamigori, Teruyoshi Yama...
HARRISON WOOD1914-1938Harrison Wood died on September 1, 1938, after a short illness in Berne, Switzerland. From the balcony outside his room he could look up the Aar Valley, fair and green, to the tremendous throne of the Bernese Oberland. Before...