Convent, Castle Valley, 1992. Rob Slater and Jim Bodenhamer climbed the Junior Buttress (IV, 5.10, A2) in 1992, following the south skyline of the Convent, which involved much run-out face climbing.Cameron Burns
Big Bluff. Probably no one who has camped at the Platforms in Garnet Canyon has given any thought to climbing the overhanging cliff directly above, that is until Royal Robbins and Joe Fitschen climbed it on August 12. This may represent the climax...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleIn July, 1990, Martin (20) was scrambling unroped on slabs several hundred meters above the practice area on the east face of Mount Rundle when he fell, apparently at least 50 meters. His ...
Traverse from Dassu to Pasu and P 5979. In July, Phil Bartlett, Duncan Tunstall and I spent four weeks walking from Dassu to Pasu, a journey of over 200 kilometers. We used porters to Base Camp at the head of the Biafo Glacier. A break in generall...
Manaslu. The Esprit d’Equipe expedition led by Benoît Chamoux hoped to carry out its program by climbing a new route on the south face of Manaslu. After an eight-day approach, we established temporary Base Camp on April 5 at the end of Thulagi Lak...
Alpamayo and Neighboring Peaks. Mike Yokell, Matt Wells, Dan Manning, Steve Kentz, Carol Harden, Sue Giller, Jane Bunin and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet at Pucacocha, northeast of Alpamayo. We made alpine-style ascents, using no fixed ro...
ELEANOR BARTLETT1897-1983Eleanor Bartlett, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1928, died in Greenbrae, California, August 10. She graduated from Wellesley College. An ardent mountain lover and climber, she came to the University of Califor...
Annapurna. The postmonsoon Japanese expedition of the Unversity of Kyoto is reported to have failed.
Dhaulagiri. On May 14, a nine-member Danish team managed to place their leader Søren Smid on the summit of Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast ridge route. He became the first Dane to climb an 8000er. He climbed solo from their Camp II at 7200 me...
Latok V (6,190m), attempt. Motomu Omiya with two other companions made his fourth attempt on this unclimbed 6,190m summit, which stands at the end of the southeast ridge of Latok III. Omiya, who made the first ascent of Latok IV in 1980, attempted...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTUtah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Mr. SandmanA rock climber suffered serious injuries when he fell in Big Cottonwood Canyon on August 4. The 29-year-old man was backing off a route called Mr. Sandman in the Stairs Gul...
Mace, Sedona. Molly Higgins and I completed the second route, Wind, Sand and Stars, on May 3 on this beautiful formation: some of the best desert sandstone I have climbed. Our route is on the north face with two aid pitches followed by an overhang...
Tombstone Mountains, Yukon Territory. Last summer, I made four trips to Canada's Tombstone Mountains, which lie about 60 kilometers northeast of Dawson City, Yukon, where I was living at the time. With Myk Kurth (Canada), Ian Marriott (U.K) and Ma...
FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Lion HeadOn April 4, one member of a group was descending the Lion Head Winter Route control of his glissade. He slid an unknown length, impacted trees al...
Thui III. Our expedition was composed of H.P. Doswald, Dr. A. Stöckli, Frl. Dr. V. Merz, J. de Vries, H. Bumbacher, M. Dubacher, J. Huber, J. Ineichen, H. Rieder, K. Stadlin, P. Lenggenhager, and me as leader. We placed Base Camp (12,625 feet) bet...
Saraghrar. An Italian expedition led by Fosco Maraini made the first ascent of Saraghrar (24,110 feet) in Chitral. In August Franco Alletto, Gianfranco Castelli, Paolo Consiglio, and Carlo Pinelli climbed to the summit from Camp V at 21,650 feet. ...
Mount ]ohannesberg, Northeast Face. This face lies between the north- east-ridge route and the usual east-ridge route from the top of the famous 3000-foot Cascade-Johannesberg ice couloir, and was first completed August 29, 1963 by Jim Stuart, Dav...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Norman Clyde PeakOn August 19, 1994, a group of six experienced mountaineers, most of whom had done over one hundred peaks in the High Sierra, were climbing the North-Northeast Ridge of Norman Clyde Peak. Each...
Half Dome. In October Dale Bard and I did a new route on the northwest face of Half Dome. The route is on the right side of the face. The first 900 feet followed a huge arch with very awkward, strenuous, loose, expanding aid climbing. The upper pa...
Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m). In September and October Derek Buckle, Drew Cook, John Hudson, Laura Millichamp, and I, all members of the Alpine Club, visited the...