SNAKE BITENew York, ShawangunksA man (24) was bitten on the hand by a copperhead while climbing Dirty Gerdie (5.8). He did not fall as a result. (Source: Brad Snyder)
Aconcagua, South Face, Winter Solo, 1986. Spaniard Fernando Ruiz made the second winter ascent of the south face of Aconcagua solo in alpine style. At the beginning of September, 1986, he made a first attempt with Antonio de Lorenzo, but they were...
Caucasus: The Proletarski Turist has built a large hut on the route to the Dongusorun Pass, and two huts on Elbruz at 13,800 and 17,400 feet are contemplated.
Nacimiento, New Route, Previously Unreported. Between December, 1999, and March, 2000, I returned to the Bonete-Pissis area in the southern Puna de Atacama, south of the well-known Ojos del Salado. On December 23, W. Zieglmeier, M. Betzl, and I cl...
FALL ON ROCK, FOOT JAMMEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboo SpireOn August 21, 1986, a party of three climbers of intermediate experience attempted the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. It was a warm, sunny day. On the first pitch, at an...
Bhagirathi I, West Ridge Ascent and Tragedy. From August 16 to 23 Charlie Heard, John Mothersele and I made the first ascent of Bhagirathi I’s west ridge, a 7000-foot-high superb free climb on white granite in its lower half, which culminated in a...
Gurja Himal Ascent and Tragedy. A joint expedition of nine Japanese and three Nepalese climbed Gurja Himal from the Kaphe Khola, west of the peak, up the west ridge and northwest face. They had three high camps. On April 29, the leader Soichi Koba...
Wrangell/Saint Elias Climbs. Continuing with the ski-mountaineering trends on the great peaks (Bona, Churchill, Bear, Blackburn, Logan and Sanford), Ultima Thule Outfitters guided, flew and outfitted a multitude of expeditions. Highlights include ...
Jogin I. Walt Kaskel, Joseph Mazzotta, Dick Osborn, Dick Painter, Ron Rickman and I as leader began the two-day trek up the Kedar Ganga from Gangotri on May 30 and placed Base Camp just above the lake, Kedar Tal, at 15,000 feet. After walking on t...
A.A.C., New England Section. The year began with a determined group of Bostonians, meeting at Chairman Streibert’s home in Newton, to delegate some of the responsibilities of the newsletter, mailing list, treasury, planning of meetings, and issues...
Makalu Post-Monsoon Attempts. Aside from the international expedition led by Michael Woolridge and the American one led by Joe Frank, there were three unsuccessful ones on the northwest side of Makalu in the post-monsoon period. Swiss Bruno Zaugg ...
Moskenesoy Island, various winter ascents. The Lofoten Islands looked to be a wild area in winter. Moskenesoy, the stunningly beautiful and southernmost main island of the group, appeared promising on the map, but we could find no information on w...
Everest. Our expedition was composed of former Soviets Vladimir Balyberdin, leader, Anatoli Bukreev, Gennady Kopieka, Roman Giutashvili, Vladimir Gorbunov, Aleksei Klimin, Yelena Kunshova and Americans Kevin Cooney, Greg Smith and me. I belatedly ...
Breaking Point. Glenn Randall. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1984. 135 pages, color photographs, appendixes. $9.95.On May 11, 1980, Glenn Randall and partners Peter Metcalf and Pete Athens completed a grueling thirteen-day ascent of the central buttre...
Dientes de Rambo, Torre Norte del Paine and Paineta. After climbing the Torre Central del Paine [see full article—Editor], American Peter Garber and I stayed on to attempt new lines. Joined by Argentine Nicolas Benedetti and American Liane Owen, w...
REGIONAL SAFETY ACTIVITIESMost of the climbing clubs have good safety programs for their members. The following activities are reported because they seem to be offering a service to a larger group.The Mountaineers, Seattle have an active safety pr...
I was belaying my partner on January 16. We were climbing a new route not in the guidebook when he kicked off a baseball-sized rock from approximately 60 feet up. It made a direct hit, striking the center of my skull! Luckily I was wearing a helme...
Gasherbrum II, All-Women’s Ascent. The first all-women’s team from Britain to an 8000er was composed of Rhona Lampard, leader, Brede Arkless, Geraldine Westrupp, Kathy Bainbridge, Becky Thorp, Dr. Sally Churcher and as a guest from Poland, Wanda R...
Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi East. Our expedition was organized jointly by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and eight guide-instructors of the Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme at Chamonix. We had as our objective to traverse from Nanda Devi ...
Kula, west ridge, second ascent/possible variant. On June 29 Gaurav, JS Gulia, and Amardeep, with two HAPs, Fateh Chand and Pyare Lal, reached the 6,546m summit of Kula in the Rupshu region. Kula is the name assigned this peak on the most recent S...