Moran’s South Buttress in WinterA bird’s eye view of obsessionRenny JacksonMarch 5From our warm and sunlit belay ledge, Mark Newcomb and I had a great view as Hans Johnstone easily ascended the steep crack leading up and around to the Double Pendu...
A.A.C., New York Section. After a brief respite for rest and rehabilitation following the Club’s 83rd Annual Meeting, the New York Section continued with a busy schedule of events in 1986. Illustrated lectures were presented by such well known cli...
The Ascent of Nanda Devi, by H. W. Tilman. Foreword by Dr. T. G. Longstaff. xii and 235 pages, 36 illustrations, 2 maps, index. New York: Macmillan Co., $3.50. London: Cambridge University Press, 12/6.It is perhaps unwise for one member of an expe...
Central Farol Peak, probable first ascent. At the start of July our German-Swiss Expedition (Cedric Haehlen, Urs Stoecker, Rainer Treppte, and I) left for the Charakusa Valley. Like other expeditions in 2005, we were refused permits for K7 or K6 f...
The FlameBefore 9-11, this 500-foot granite spike sitting on top of a 2,000-foot face had been the talk of the Trango Valley. Now there was no one to talk with} but when the rain finally stopped, the Flame got fired. Pakistan.Brian McMahonThe crux...
Igor Brakk, Inshallah. In July, Toni Caporale, Maurizio Felici, Alessandro Palmerini, and I opened Inshallah (610m, ABO- VII A0, ice 70°) on Igor Brakk (5,010m) in the Amin Brakk group of the Nangma Valley. The initial goal of our Abruzzo-based ex...
Locations at Maligne LakeAllen CarpeWHEN Howard Palmer and I visited Maligne Lake in 1923, we encountered topographical inconsistencies which had not been anticipated. Looking into the matter after our return, we were surprised to find that the la...
Staunings Alps, Various Ascents. Our lightweight expedition lasted from April 26 to May 18 and consisted of two groups. The ski group comprised Olav Nilssen, Dag Fergestad, Stein Fergestad, Bjrn Backe and Inge Lotsberg. The climbing group was made...
Free HallucinationsDefining a new game: "free aid” on the Hallucinogen Wall, in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado.Jared OgdEnIn 1980, four climbers must have been hallucinating when they set out for a new route in the Black Canyon of the ...
Tiquimani, New Route. In August, 1997, Spaniard Pere Vilarasau soloed the imposing Tiquimani in an impressive five hours round-trip. The 5519-meter mountain northeast of Huayna Potosí (misnamed Cerro Illampu on the IGM maps) has seen few ascents i...
Classic Climbs in the Caucasus. Friedrich Bender, translated by Jill Neate. Diadem Books, London, Menasha Ridge Press, Birmingham, Alabama, 1992. 316 pages. Photographs, maps. $24.95.This beautiful pocket-sized volume is sure dramatically to incre...
Pisco Este, South Ridge, Pukarashta, West Ridge and Other Peaks, 1980. Englishmen Derek Howard and Nick Kekus made a new route on Pisco Este from July 1 to 3, 1980. They climbed a direct line up the south ridge after a difficult icefall approach. ...
FALL ON ROCK, WASPSNew York, ShawangunksOn July 15, a 23-year-old man was climbing Fat Stick, a 5.7 route, when he was stung by wasps. He fell about 60 feet, sustaining only minor injury to an elbow and hip. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisLast year ...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATMontana, Glacier National park, Rainbow PeakOn July 3, Mark Robison (24) and Christopher Foster (23) fell 2000 feet to their deaths. They had nearly summitted Rainbow Peak when the l...
Gul Lasht Zom South and Gul Lasht Zom Southeast, Hindu Kush. Our 12-member Italian expedition reached the roadhead at Shogrom and in three days got to Base Camp at 4650 meters below Istor-O-Nal on the Upper Tirich Glacier. On August 9, we crossed ...
Dragontail, Northwest Face. In early April John Wasson and I climbed a route on Dragontail to the right of Serpentine Arête. We started the climb on a thin ice smear, and the next four pitches were on good ice leading up to a big snowfield. At the...
California, El Capitan Peak. On December 2, David Gunn (19) and a group of twelve other teenage hikers embarked on an ascent of El Capitan Peak, a prominent landmark near Lakeside. During the ascent of a brushy scree slope one member of the party ...
Dharamsura (White Sail Peak), Ascent. A Japanese team led by Zennosuke Sakurazawa climbed Dharamsura (6445 m) by the east face on September 7. Summitters were Z. Sakurazawa, Yusuo Kurasawa, Tstuomu Aoki, Takashi Chiko, Masanobu Ouchi, Fatehchand a...
Summit Chief Mountain, Alpine Chicken. Alpine ice climbing in Washington is so suck. From time to time, however, the weather does conspire to create decent enough conditions to grovel one’s way up a face using crampons and ice tools. Such was the ...
ROCK AND SNOW AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount KitchenerTwo climbers, both in their early twenties, were attempting the Grand Central Couloir on the north face of Mount Kitchener on August 22, 1982. Due to bad conditions, they decided to a...