Sandstone Towers near Ghost Ranch, Abiquiu. There are numerous sandstone towers near my home in northern New Mexico and until February they were all unclimbed. When I set out to ascend them, little did I know that I’d be pushing the limits of “sof...
WILLIAM F. GERBER1915-1996Bill Gerber of Denver died in October, 1996. He had suffered a stroke the year before, not long after a rock climbing 80th birthday party. His family and friends were distressed to see the decline of a man who had always ...
AMSAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressMasamichi Kobayashi (65) was a part of the Tokyo-JAC expedition comprised of four Japanese men. They flew onto the mountain on June 14 and progressed to the 17,200-foot camp in average ...
Pisco Este, south face to summit ridge. In mid-June I went to the East Peak of Pisco via Laguna 69 and a faint trail up the left side of the moraine. After reaching a high point, the trail descends steeply for 100m to a tiny pond, where I put up m...
Operation Medicine BowRICHARD W. MURPHYOn Thursday, October 6, 1955, at approximately 7:12 A.M. a United Air Lines DC-4 carrying 63 passengers and three crew members crashed into the east face of 12,005-foot Medicine Bow Peak, located about 40 mil...
Climbs above Upper Black Rapids Glacier, Mount Hayes Area, Alaska Range. During the week of August 20 to 28, Buck Wilson, George Oetzel, John Dawson, Rick Litterick and I made two first ascents in the upper Black Rapids area but where unable to cl...
Mt. Everest, North Ridge, Ascent and Tragedy. On May 17, the husband-and-wife team of Serguei Arsentiev and Francys Distefano-Arsentiev started from ABC to the North Col with members of their Russian expedition. On May 18, Serguei, Francys and Bor...
El Escudo, Icaro y la Luna and Pulso; Milton Adams Wall, Martes 13. Icaro y la Luna and Pulso are on El Escudo (The Shield) in the Amphitheater area, beside Cerro Walwalun (a.k.a. Cerro Noemi), on the backside of El Monstruo [see map, AAJ 2006, p....
Zion National Park, New Routes. During the spring, I climbed two new big routes in Zion National Park. Brad Quinn, Bill Hatcher and I, aided by Calvin Herbert on the lower pitches, climbed a new route on Isaac, the center Patriarch in Zion, an 180...
The east face of Taylor Peak is situated above Sky Pond in the Loch Vale region of Rocky Mountain National Park. Early in April Doug Scott, Doug Snively, and I established a new route there in semi-winter conditions. The route ascends a right-le...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQAUTE PROTECTION–ANCHORING ERROR, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Hoback Junction, Rodeo WallOn August 1, Sandy Edmiston (22) fell 60 feet to her death from the anchors of a bolted sport climb at the popular Rodeo Wall, south of Jackson. A...
Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash of Peru, by Jim Bartle. Published by the author, 1980 (Peruvian edition) and 1981 (US edition). 159 pages, 33 illustrations, including 18 color photographs and 15 sketch maps, plus one separate fold...
Western Hajar mountains report. There has been another bout of new route activity since my last report in AAJ 2001. In November, possibly the best line in the range was climbed on Jabal Misht by resident guide Jacob Oberhause (Austria) and Brian D...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. During the summer of 1953, members of the Club conducted expeditions to British Colombia, Alberta, Peru, and Alaska. In British Columbia Bill Putnam and Harry Francis ran an 18-man climbing camp in the Northern Selkirk...
FALL ON ICE-CAUSED SHOULDER DISLOCATIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Kautz GlacierOn July 25th, the fifth day of a successful expedition via the Kautz Glacier route, a client with International Mountain Guides suffered a shoulder dislocation during a...
Gyachung KangAn alpine mentality in the Himalayaby Marko Prezelj, Planinska zveza Slovenije, Slovenia translated by Ana Percic“Have you noticed the mountain between Cho Oyu and Everest?” Andrej asked me in 1995.“There are several interesting peaks...
Yerupajá—1966Leif-Norman Patterson and David IslesPatterson describes the ascent of the west face.MOUNTAINEERING becomes difficult from the very start if you have a passion for the straightest lines from bottom to top of the steepest faces and yet...
A.A.C.: Cascade Section. Although the Section met only three times during the year, its individual members were busy taking part in mountaineering projects of their own such as an expedition to the Yukon Territory, dedication of mountain huts in t...
Abode of Snow. A History of Himalayan Exploration and Mountaineering, by Kenneth Mason. 372 pages; illustrations and diagrams. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1955. Price, 25 shillings. New York: E. P. Dutton Co., 1955. Price $6.50.No one is better qua...
Pik Lenin, Pamirs. The Russians announce that 200 climbers from Georgia, Latvia, Estonia and Uzbekistan climbed in early August to the summit of Pik Lenin (23,406 feet).